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My n/a project

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Old 06-26-2008, 04:43 AM
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It happend to just my right elbow, but luckily this morning the swelling is pretty much gone and the pain is much less that it was originally so it might only take few more days to heal.

To avoid this kind of injury it's important when you do a repetitive task to take a break once in a while like 10-15 min after one or two hour of extensive work. Another good way to avoid the bursitis, if you can work from both arm switch the tool from one arm to the other. I know it may be easier said than done but it worth to try.
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Old 06-26-2008, 11:51 AM
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Haha. Im glad its healing up, and I will take your advice.

You also suggested getting an electric die grinder, instead of an air powered, correct?
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Old 06-26-2008, 12:20 PM
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An air die grinder is perfect to use if you have a good air compressor that have a 60 gallon tank,( most home compressor are not big enough since they cant sustain the pressure for more than few minutes, I mean it can work but the noise of the compressor starting every 5 minutes will make you go nuts after a little while, but if you do the math it is cheaper to use an electric die grinder like this one here: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44141

It is a little bigger than the air die grinder but it works quite well, also you will need a good dremmel, since a good part of the P&P jobs is done with the dremmel.
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Old 06-26-2008, 04:39 PM
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Alright man thanks a bunch for the advice.
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Old 06-26-2008, 05:32 PM
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I have that grinder but the rpms I feel is too high. I think a variable speed grinder is better. How you get to use a dremel when most P&P bits are 1/4" and not 1/8" shank.
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Old 06-26-2008, 06:15 PM
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I've used the electric die grinder to polished the exhaust chamber. I used the air die grinder with the 80 & 120 grid stone. The electric die grinder out of control can cause a lot of damage in the port and need to be handle with a lot of attention. As mentioned by speed racer, for some the model that I used might a little on the fast side ( thanks for the precision ). I also use the dremmel to access some spot that are harder to reach with bigger tools, I was able to use some crartridge roll with the dremmel, I just had to fabricate a shaft with one of the end being a screw so I could twist in the cartridge roll, it happend to be one of the very usefull bit I used for the P&P.

Last edited by doublea; 06-27-2008 at 10:06 AM.
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Old 06-27-2008, 09:58 AM
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Very smart. The dremel is a lot better b/c you can be very precise. One thing I also don't like about an electric die grinder with high rpms is that you burn the cartridges very fast.
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Old 06-27-2008, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by speed racer
Very smart. The dremel is a lot better b/c you can be very precise. One thing I also don't like about an electric die grinder with high rpms is that you burn the cartridges very fast.
You are absolutely right about that. I actually end-up burning 2 cheaps dremmel ( 30$ each ), so when I bought the third one I found this: http://www.nationalwholesaletools.co...OD&ProdID=8550

This carver is more powerfull & stronger than a standard dremmel and can take 1/8 & 3/16 bit/ shaft, it only sell for 45$. I also have a standard dremmel since the extended shaft is smaller in diameter and can get anywhere.
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Old 07-15-2008, 10:06 AM
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Hey guys, I've been away for a week vacation with the family and just got back. I've talk with the shop manager and they will start to work on my heads next monday, as previously mentioned they will also flow bench the heads.

The tech also put me in touch with another shop ( Zeeke's ) who will take care of the engine reciprocating and maybe the final assembly, the technician that I spoke was very knowledgeable and nice. I'm going to bring them the engine block, crank, rods ,bolts and the whole nine yards by this friday, so hopefully I should have the engine back in 2-3 weeks. Assembly wise, things are looking good for the mid to end of august, but if my evaluation are like the previous one it might be only in october that the engine will be assemble. Lol

For the next few weeks, I'm going to concentrate on the car's body prep, as I still have many hours of sending and sandblasting to do before we can prime & paint this car. I also have a lots of parts I need to order so that will keep me busy until the heads & engine are back for the final assembly.

That's about it for now.
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Old 07-15-2008, 01:51 PM
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Thanks for keeping us updated man, I really want to see how this comes out.
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Old 07-15-2008, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by doublea
Hey guys, I've been away for a week vacation with the family and just got back. I've talk with the shop manager and they will start to work on my heads next monday, as previously mentioned they will also flow bench the heads.

The tech also put me in touch with another shop ( Zeeke's ) who will take care of the engine reciprocating and maybe the final assembly, the technician that I spoke was very knowledgeable and nice. I'm going to bring them the engine block, crank, rods ,bolts and the whole nine yards by this friday, so hopefully I should have the engine back in 2-3 weeks. Assembly wise, things are looking good for the mid to end of august, but if my evaluation are like the previous one it might be only in october that the engine will be assemble. Lol

For the next few weeks, I'm going to concentrate on the car's body prep, as I still have many hours of sending and sandblasting to do before we can prime & paint this car. I also have a lots of parts I need to order so that will keep me busy until the heads & engine are back for the final assembly.

That's about it for now.
If you don't mind me asking, how much is the shop charging to do all the work to the heads?
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Old 07-15-2008, 06:30 PM
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im in class , and ive done some reading up in to page 5. awesome stuff. some of it seems over whelming, but its great you're doing this. i would be so glad to see u stick high comp pistons rather than going boosted. but ehh what can i do ?
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Old 07-16-2008, 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveVQ
If you don't mind me asking, how much is the shop charging to do all the work to the heads?

The head works should come to about 500-600$ cdn. I also ask the tech to check the deck, so they might shave a 1/1000 of an inch to make sur the deck is flat. I was also surprise that the engine reciprocating is not that expensive, it might cost me another 250-500$.
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Old 07-16-2008, 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by etikoner
im in class , and ive done some reading up in to page 5. awesome stuff. some of it seems over whelming, but its great you're doing this. i would be so glad to see u stick high comp pistons rather than going boosted. but ehh what can i do ?
My goal is to bring this engine close to 400 HP to the ground, so there is no way I could have reach those numbers N/A, unless I throw 10 000-15 000$ in engine works and customs part fabrication.
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Old 07-16-2008, 11:56 AM
  #295  
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Originally Posted by doublea
My goal is to bring this engine close to 400 HP to the ground, so there is no way I could have reach those numbers N/A, unless I throw 10 000-15 000$ in engine works and customs part fabrication.
There's always nitrous......
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Old 07-16-2008, 03:48 PM
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I might run a 35 shots in the I/C...
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Old 07-17-2008, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by doublea
I might run a 35 shots in the I/C...
Well, that's a start.... Ever heard of using CO2 instead for the I/C?
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Old 07-31-2008, 05:52 PM
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I didn't drop the heads at the shop yet, when I called for the apointment they said they wouldn't have the time to work on it before the main tech is back from vacation so I told them to call me when the tech is back next week. In the meantime I've bought a new Porter Cable compressor with a 60 gallon tank, I was fed up to work with the 25 gallon compressor, I should have done that a long time ago.

The parts I've purchased are finally arriving, I got the Toga oil pump & valve seal.
I also ordered AJUSA head bolts from: http://www.importperformanceparts.net

Dave Burnett is sending me new VQ30DEK rod bolts & nuts along with new main bolts so as soon as I get those ( next monday ) the engine block and all the moving parts will be sent for reciprocating. They will also take care of the block & checking the clearance on all the bearing & the crank. Basically I want them to have custom rod & crank bearing to be done on this engine. I've also decide to have them perform the engine assembly, I want to be absolutely sure this goes in the right direction. That's the latest news I got, I'll take some pics of the parts I got and perhaps post it later tonight.
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Old 08-04-2008, 08:39 PM
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Today I called: http://www.rrconnectingrods.com I spoke with Mike and wanted to know how much a set of custom rods would run me ? the answer is 1274$, the lead time is about 12 weeks. The custom rods will be good for 600HP +

I just need to send them a brand new wrist pin and one of my stocker rods and wait 12 weeks.

Here is a few shots of some of the stuff I got lately along with my bored throttle body:

The Toga oil pump:


The Toga Valve seal:


Bored throttle body:



New compressor:


Now I only need to get the AJUSA head bolts and take a decision on the custom rods before everything has to leave for engine reciprocating.
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Old 08-04-2008, 10:09 PM
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WOW that Throttle Body is nice. And are the connecting rods going to be any lighter than stock?
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Old 08-05-2008, 05:10 AM
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The rods should be very close to the stock in term of weight but one thing for sure they will be stronger than stock.
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Old 08-06-2008, 07:06 AM
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What was the ID of the TB before porting?

Also, the TB is flared a touch, so the measurement from the rear is what is important.
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Old 08-06-2008, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
What was the ID of the TB before porting?

Also, the TB is flared a touch, so the measurement from the rear is what is important.
I dont know what is the stock size but since I have another stock TB at home I'll check that tonight. I believe the flare is only like 2mm so the narrow part is probably 67mm ( I will double check that as well tonight ) I've polished the internal side wall to make it very smooth, hopefully this can help having a little better flow.
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Old 08-06-2008, 02:41 PM
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66mm or 67mm if IIRC

Last edited by DrunkieTheBear; 08-06-2008 at 02:50 PM.
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Old 08-08-2008, 10:52 AM
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The bored TB is close to 67 mm. I think the stock one is 62 mm, but I dont recall exactly. I will double check tonight.

Last edited by doublea; 08-08-2008 at 10:57 AM.
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Old 08-14-2008, 04:18 PM
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Hey guys, here some heads up on this build. I have found a local shop that is going to take care of engine reciprocating and the engine assembly. After talking with one of the tech for about 30 minutes, this guy convinced me to deal with them even though he's was not trying to do so, he was nice enough to answer all my questions and more.

On another note I have decided to get new rods for my build, R&R is going to custom build me a set of stronger rods. That alone will push the date for the engine assembly by a good 3 months, now this bring me another brain issue so let me explain. I have a set of Arias piston with a lower C/R but stock size and ready to go in the stock cleaned VQ30DEK block. Now while I was talking with enrico he mentioned that sleeving the engine would not that be expensive and could not only strengthen the engine block but give me the option to go oversize and create more hp & tq, I'm wondering how much more can this bring ? Even though I have the Arias piston paid and ready to rock, the idea of gaining hp & tq by going oversize is intriguing me at this point. I'd like to ear from some of you guys who know a thing or two about engine building & sleeving. Any constructive suggestion is very welcome at this point, I mean with the kind of money I'm throwing in this build I knew right from the beginning that at the end it would cost me a few thousand more than I could predict. I'm thinking that if I the engine sleeving & oversize piston bring sufficient benefit I'm ready to throw another 2000$ for this jobs, but the questions are " Is it worth it ? Will the gain be there ? of cours any technician who sell his services will tell me so but I dont want to guess work on this and being stuck with problem that I cannot handle after.

This forum is me best source for open discussion, I need to discuss a little more about that before I can take a decision.

BTW: The P & P of the heads is done, I will finally drop the heads at the shop this friday. This has been one of the most exhausting/challenging jobs I have ever done in a long time, building my garage was apiece of cake comparing to this work. I have spent well over 200 hours to pp the heads >UIM>LIM and do the ports matching.

Last edited by doublea; 08-14-2008 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 08-26-2008, 04:09 PM
  #307  
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If you oversize the engine tho...it won't be a 3.0 , we need to keep the 3.0 alive.

I want to say nice job with the work on the heads, I really can not wait to see the finished product for the whole thing.

I found a shop local that is going to do all the P&P work and oversize my valves for me, as much as I would like to do it myself...I don't have the resources to do so.
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Old 08-26-2008, 05:37 PM
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I'm keeping the engine as 3.0L, I want to finish that project asap, my car has been in the garage for almost 2 years now and I'm missing it, driving the Murano was ok for the time being but now I want my maxima on the road no later than spring 2009.

The head job was quite a challenge and honestly I dont think I will do another one soon. I'm now just missing few parts before I can send the engine block with all the rotating parts for engine reciprocating. One of my bigger dilema are the rods, I really wanted to go custom but I cant really get those rods before 4-5 months, so for the time being I'm ordering new stock rods from Dave B and will ship the engine and stuff in about 2 weeks. It 's one of those thing that I had to go thru and take a hard decision otherwise this car would remain a project car for another 1-2 years. Enough is enough I want to drive my car before I get too old. Lol

If thing can fall into place the way I want, my engine should be assemble by october. I have ordered a lot of stuff lately, now I'm just missing the wheel hub with spindle and the lower control arm for both side. The front end of the car is going to be pretty much brand new.
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Old 08-26-2008, 07:55 PM
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after reading this whole thread i just wanted to say I'm impressed to see how far you have gone and plan to go with your VQ30, i cant wait to see more pics and the dynos when its finished. i was admiring your porting and polishing on the heads and wanted to throw it out there to CC the combustion chambers to ensure that your porting is equal among all cylinders(figured I'd mention it). good luck and great job so far.
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Old 08-26-2008, 08:50 PM
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The shop where the valve job is being done may flow bench the heads, the owner told me they may not have the time to do it before october, but anyway I have another shop that is willing to flow bench the heads for a reasonable price so one way or another I have an option. Thanks for the good words, I appreciate all the moral support I get from you guys.
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Old 08-26-2008, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by doublea
I'm keeping the engine as 3.0L, I want to finish that project asap, my car has been in the garage for almost 2 years now and I'm missing it, driving the Murano was ok for the time being but now I want my maxima on the road no later than spring 2009.

The head job was quite a challenge and honestly I dont think I will do another one soon. I'm now just missing few parts before I can send the engine block with all the rotating parts for engine reciprocating. One of my bigger dilema are the rods, I really wanted to go custom but I cant really get those rods before 4-5 months, so for the time being I'm ordering new stock rods from Dave B and will ship the engine and stuff in about 2 weeks. It 's one of those thing that I had to go thru and take a hard decision otherwise this car would remain a project car for another 1-2 years. Enough is enough I want to drive my car before I get too old. Lol

If thing can fall into place the way I want, my engine should be assemble by october. I have ordered a lot of stuff lately, now I'm just missing the wheel hub with spindle and the lower control arm for both side. The front end of the car is going to be pretty much brand new.
Thats pretty much what I have done....

I did the bearings and all the other suspension and brake stuff.

Now I am going back with NEW LCAs, balljoints, bushings, axles, ever better brakes, and eventually the coilovers...

there are some other things, just can't remember, but I hope to repaint alot of it and clean it really well, will probably be the last time I ever have to worry about it hopefully. But it will be nice to feel an almost brand new chasis . I'll be welding in alot of custom bracing as well, such as fender braces, my own LTB to SFC bracing and a special strut bar that provides more support with the firewall.
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Old 08-27-2008, 05:00 AM
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I should start the paint jobs in september, I dont have that much prep to do since the car is in pretty good condition already but I still have a bit of sandblasting to do underneath the engine bay that alone will only take few hours, with the new compressor thing are happening much faster and the painting should be a breeze.
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Old 08-27-2008, 11:07 AM
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Here is the latest new for the rods, I received a call from Steve at Top end Performance: http://www.racetep.com/pauter.html

This came as a surprise today since I couldn't find stronger rods in a decent time frame.

The good news is that Pauter has manufactured the VQ30DEK rods in 2002 and they can make me a set for 1188$ including ARP 2000 rod bolts, lead time is 5-6 weeks, wow I'm finding myself to change my mind again... Anyway I have to send them the following spec:

*Length of rod Center to Center
*Diameter of the Big End Bore
*Width of Big End
*Width of Small End
*Pin Diameter

I'm going to take some measurement tomorrow but I need to be absolutely 100% sure of those spec. I'd really appreciate if someone on the org can give me those spec, I will compare to my own measurement, but I will probably send a rod & a wrist pin to them
as well.

Thanks for any input.
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Old 08-27-2008, 02:20 PM
  #314  
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Here are some of the dimensions

http://forums.maxima.org/2683134-post6.html

I can't find the the other thread with more info, phmor posted in a thread I made a while back when I was thinking about the 3.3 stroker, but I bailed on the 3.3 cause it was too much money.
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Old 08-27-2008, 07:30 PM
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lookin good. i remember reading this toward it's beginning and you've made a lot of progress.
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Old 08-28-2008, 02:00 PM
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DaveVQ. Thanks for the info. I spoke with Steve this am and decide to send him one of the original VQ30DEK rods, the box has left this pm and he will get it in the next couple of days. I should have news within a week or once Steve can confirm, I will go ahead with the order. Apparently those RODS can/will support 1200 HP, I mean my engine will never be close to that but that's good to know that this wont be the week link. My goal is to get 400HP to the wheel.

I'm still missing some parts & components:

Head gasket > Cometic
Injectors > Deutchwerk 550 or more ?
Nissan Engine gasket kit
Cattman Headers
Emanage Ultimate
Gage
New radiator & fan > Better than stock
Fuel line from the gas tank to the front engine bay
Intercooler & piping
Vortech V3 & all the plumbing

Feel free to drop me any suggestion that would help me.

I wanna say thanks again for all the support I'm getting here.


Best to all.


AA
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Old 08-28-2008, 02:04 PM
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For any one it may interest, I was told that there is not ETA for the AJUSA head bolts & it might take forever to get those so I cancel the order and ordered a set of VQ30DEK stock head bolts from Dave B.
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Old 08-28-2008, 04:58 PM
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only 400whp???? I think you could hit 500 really.

And I do believe we can use the vq35hr head bolts...thats what I was planning to do
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Old 08-28-2008, 09:00 PM
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did you think about trying to locate internals from a VQ30DET from japan, i remember reading about that when tilley did the swap, i think he used the DET rods and pistons in a DE block? i believe those pistons would give you 9 to 1 compression.

and i know theres a 350z race car out there with the VQ30DET in it with close to 700hp.
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Old 08-29-2008, 04:53 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveVQ
only 400whp???? I think you could hit 500 really.

And I do believe we can use the vq35hr head bolts...thats what I was planning to do
400 to the wheel would be awesome, if I hit 500 well then I guess I'll be speech less but I'm going to need help for tuning since this is not my cup of tea. 500 to the ground man but how can we effectively transfer that power to the ground without spinning in all gear ?

So you think the vq35hr head bolts would work on the DEK ? I've ordered a set of VQ30DEK head bolts, I was told that those head bolts might even be stronger than the VQ35 stock head bolts.

I recently read that a 350Z guy that added 2 bolts, basically there is 2 plug in the head so what he did is remove the plug and machine the block so he could add 2 more bolts to the head, apparently this would give additional strength, I believe he was pushing 700 HP it was a very ingenious found.
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