My n/a project
05-29-2009, 02:44 PM
#681
I would use stock coils - they're not cheap as new replacements, but you CAN replace one easily if one goes bad.
If you need more spark, I can show you how to install my Voltage Booster and you can make as much spark as you want to - and it costs about $50. I originally built it to make more sparks for my nitrous motors, plus it's real simple to install. I still run .035" gap on all my plugs.
If you need more spark, I can show you how to install my Voltage Booster and you can make as much spark as you want to - and it costs about $50. I originally built it to make more sparks for my nitrous motors, plus it's real simple to install. I still run .035" gap on all my plugs.
05-29-2009, 02:56 PM
#682
I would use stock coils - they're not cheap as new replacements, but you CAN replace one easily if one goes bad.
If you need more spark, I can show you how to install my Voltage Booster and you can make as much spark as you want to - and it costs about $50. I originally built it to make more sparks for my nitrous motors, plus it's real simple to install. I still run .035" gap on all my plugs.
If you need more spark, I can show you how to install my Voltage Booster and you can make as much spark as you want to - and it costs about $50. I originally built it to make more sparks for my nitrous motors, plus it's real simple to install. I still run .035" gap on all my plugs.
Is it easy to figure/locate when a coil goes out ? I'm just trying to limit the number of variable that can go wrong. But if that is easy to locate I can certainly put the stocker back and wait until something goes wrong but what code would I get with a bad coil ?
05-29-2009, 03:25 PM
#683
Web link: http://www.blazt.biz/index.php
Australians seem to love their Nissans.
.
05-29-2009, 04:16 PM
#684
There is a nice recording and diagnostics software program, by "blaZt" - in Australia - that does all sorts of good things - like you can turn OFF one cylinder at a time, and it does datalogging from the "consult" port on your ECU, under the dash. Take a look - I like it - and keep the stock coils.
Web link: http://www.blazt.biz/index.php
Australians seem to love their Nissans.
.
Web link: http://www.blazt.biz/index.php
Australians seem to love their Nissans.
.
Do you think it worth buying the kit with the data logger ? I've seen it before and was tempted but my laptop is a mac, but I'm currently shopping for a net-book with touchscreen.
05-29-2009, 07:20 PM
#685
Personally I prefer Linux, and I understand that the latest Mac OS is based on BSD Linux/unix. Something there for everybody, I guess.
05-31-2009, 06:30 AM
#686
Yeah, the whole package is worth it - you get the datalogging of selected activities, full control of many parts of the car for testing, and good reviews or logged data. You might want to consider getting a Windows notebook as well... some things are standards, like it or not. It's another tool, like a set of sockets.
Personally I prefer Linux, and I understand that the latest Mac OS is based on BSD Linux/unix. Something there for everybody, I guess.
Personally I prefer Linux, and I understand that the latest Mac OS is based on BSD Linux/unix. Something there for everybody, I guess.
Probably going to order an Acer Aspire Notebook. I like the fact that it is small since I want to mount it in the car also the bigger battery give you 8 hours of autonomy.
While at this, I tempted to buy the Innovate LC-1 as an O2 wideband, the way I understand I could use with EU right ? The I can use the blaZt software to diagnose problems and control some other area that EU dont, would there be a duplicate in this set-up or did I get it ?
( I still need to read a lot about this, so dont get me wrong, but being a computer consultant I'm not worried about learning electronic & programming stuff) I'm very close to finish my project, so I want to buy all the electronics this week and start to make the wire harness from the ECU to the EU but also to wire the car for the O2 wide band, I want to make a permanent & very clean set-up.
Thanks for the advise.
Cheers
AA
There is a local org.member VQ'ed who is going to come and help me plug everything and start the engine. My goals is to start N/A as I was suggested but have everything ready to tune the car properly, once the engine is break in we will install the S/C.
05-31-2009, 06:33 AM
#687
There is a nice recording and diagnostics software program, by "blaZt" - in Australia - that does all sorts of good things - like you can turn OFF one cylinder at a time, and it does datalogging from the "consult" port on your ECU, under the dash. Take a look - I like it - and keep the stock coils.
Web link: http://www.blazt.biz/index.php
Australians seem to love their Nissans.
.
Web link: http://www.blazt.biz/index.php
Australians seem to love their Nissans.
.
05-31-2009, 07:03 AM
#688
I have also checked the XD-16 wich is a pretty cool 16 in 1 display but I one thing I want to avoid is any distraction while driving, like the need to push button to check A/F or anything like that. I'm thinking of using my 3 gauge pod for A/F ratio, boost pressure, and probably temps or whatever informations would be best to displayed at all time. Does the laptop can kind of replace the XD-16 and display all the other informations ? I know it's alot of questions but I'm close to the end and I want to make sure I hit the nail in one shot. Lol
* I just read on Innovate website and the logworks software display the infos.
* I just read on Innovate website and the logworks software display the infos.
Last edited by doublea; 05-31-2009 at 07:31 AM.
05-31-2009, 08:08 PM
#689
Now, usually just battery voltage gets to the coils - but if you provide a higher voltage to the coils, they will put out much more voltage. I use 15 volts, and some others may use 16 volts. That's all you need to keep a decent spark gap. I run a 175-shot of nitrous at .035" gap on the plugs, which works quite well.
How do you raise the coil voltage? I use an automotive power supply with internal regulation and a switchable output. See it here: http://www.powerstream.com/dc2.htm I use the PST-P90W model. Just feed the power supply from the EMS relay connection and connect the switched output to the coil feed wire. Set it to 15 volts to start.
Enjoy - that's why I still use stock coils. And it's not even expensive.
My installation: http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...t/Dscn1618.jpg
.
05-31-2009, 08:56 PM
#690
It's really fairly simple. There is one wire from the EMS relay that feeds all six coils with battery voltage. On the 4th gen cars, the one wire goes through a connector near the battery - in my case, it's a red wire. This wire can be cut - and put male and female connectors on the ends so you can re-connect them.
Now, usually just battery voltage gets to the coils - but if you provide a higher voltage to the coils, they will put out much more voltage. I use 15 volts, and some others may use 16 volts. That's all you need to keep a decent spark gap. I run a 175-shot of nitrous at .035" gap on the plugs, which works quite well.
How do you raise the coil voltage? I use an automotive power supply with internal regulation and a switchable output. See it here: http://www.powerstream.com/dc2.htm I use the PST-P90W model. Just feed the power supply from the EMS relay connection and connect the switched output to the coil feed wire. Set it to 15 volts to start.
Enjoy - that's why I still use stock coils. And it's not even expensive.
My installation: http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...t/Dscn1618.jpg
.
Now, usually just battery voltage gets to the coils - but if you provide a higher voltage to the coils, they will put out much more voltage. I use 15 volts, and some others may use 16 volts. That's all you need to keep a decent spark gap. I run a 175-shot of nitrous at .035" gap on the plugs, which works quite well.
How do you raise the coil voltage? I use an automotive power supply with internal regulation and a switchable output. See it here: http://www.powerstream.com/dc2.htm I use the PST-P90W model. Just feed the power supply from the EMS relay connection and connect the switched output to the coil feed wire. Set it to 15 volts to start.
Enjoy - that's why I still use stock coils. And it's not even expensive.
My installation: http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...t/Dscn1618.jpg
.
05-31-2009, 09:03 PM
#691
are you gonna have a stereo in the car doublea?
I was going to setup a carpc in my maxima and have the suprastick, emanage, obdII, and other stuff plug in and have access to change the stuff on the fly. They can be done for around $600-800.
I was going to setup a carpc in my maxima and have the suprastick, emanage, obdII, and other stuff plug in and have access to change the stuff on the fly. They can be done for around $600-800.
06-01-2009, 05:29 AM
#692
It's really fairly simple. There is one wire from the EMS relay that feeds all six coils with battery voltage. On the 4th gen cars, the one wire goes through a connector near the battery - in my case, it's a red wire. This wire can be cut - and put male and female connectors on the ends so you can re-connect them.
Now, usually just battery voltage gets to the coils - but if you provide a higher voltage to the coils, they will put out much more voltage. I use 15 volts, and some others may use 16 volts. That's all you need to keep a decent spark gap. I run a 175-shot of nitrous at .035" gap on the plugs, which works quite well.
How do you raise the coil voltage? I use an automotive power supply with internal regulation and a switchable output. See it here: http://www.powerstream.com/dc2.htm I use the PST-P90W model. Just feed the power supply from the EMS relay connection and connect the switched output to the coil feed wire. Set it to 15 volts to start.
Enjoy - that's why I still use stock coils. And it's not even expensive.
My installation: http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...t/Dscn1618.jpg
.
Now, usually just battery voltage gets to the coils - but if you provide a higher voltage to the coils, they will put out much more voltage. I use 15 volts, and some others may use 16 volts. That's all you need to keep a decent spark gap. I run a 175-shot of nitrous at .035" gap on the plugs, which works quite well.
How do you raise the coil voltage? I use an automotive power supply with internal regulation and a switchable output. See it here: http://www.powerstream.com/dc2.htm I use the PST-P90W model. Just feed the power supply from the EMS relay connection and connect the switched output to the coil feed wire. Set it to 15 volts to start.
Enjoy - that's why I still use stock coils. And it's not even expensive.
My installation: http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...t/Dscn1618.jpg
.
06-01-2009, 08:59 AM
#693
I have the stock Bose HU that came with the car, but eventually I will swap the system for a much better one. I was checking at the Bang & Olufsen but my pocket not being that deep I'll probably get a Boston Acoustic system, but it's all speculative at this point.
06-01-2009, 09:21 AM
#694
Just got my fuel line 10 minutes ago, I will try to install those today. I also picked up 4 size of rubber hoses for the vacuum line & others,( 1/2", 5/16", 3/8" and 1/4 " ) it only cost me only 30$ to get like 2-3 feet of each size. While picking the fuel lines I ordered some other hoses from Nissan since they are molded one but I' fabricating all the others. Finally a couple of friends are going to help me drop the engine with the AT attached to it when everything is here, I'm no longer giving date since it never happend the day I wanted too. I'm supposed to have the AT housing ready for media blasting later this week, I'll bring it to the paint shop hopefully next week, the chrome stuff will take at least 2 weeks to get here, so the install day has been pushed back to another 2-3 weeks. One thing I learned with this project is, that it is near to impossible to predict anything. Even though I'm quite good at planning a schedule, as soon as it's goes out, things have tendency to slip and one week become three and so on so forth. At this point I'm just breathing by the nose so to speak and wait patiently for things to arrived, once it's here then I know things will get done efficiently.
Last edited by doublea; 06-01-2009 at 09:25 AM.
06-01-2009, 09:47 AM
#695
It's really fairly simple. There is one wire from the EMS relay that feeds all six coils with battery voltage. On the 4th gen cars, the one wire goes through a connector near the battery - in my case, it's a red wire. This wire can be cut - and put male and female connectors on the ends so you can re-connect them.
Now, usually just battery voltage gets to the coils - but if you provide a higher voltage to the coils, they will put out much more voltage. I use 15 volts, and some others may use 16 volts. That's all you need to keep a decent spark gap. I run a 175-shot of nitrous at .035" gap on the plugs, which works quite well.
How do you raise the coil voltage? I use an automotive power supply with internal regulation and a switchable output. See it here: http://www.powerstream.com/dc2.htm I use the PST-P90W model. Just feed the power supply from the EMS relay connection and connect the switched output to the coil feed wire. Set it to 15 volts to start.
Enjoy - that's why I still use stock coils. And it's not even expensive.
My installation: http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...t/Dscn1618.jpg
.
Now, usually just battery voltage gets to the coils - but if you provide a higher voltage to the coils, they will put out much more voltage. I use 15 volts, and some others may use 16 volts. That's all you need to keep a decent spark gap. I run a 175-shot of nitrous at .035" gap on the plugs, which works quite well.
How do you raise the coil voltage? I use an automotive power supply with internal regulation and a switchable output. See it here: http://www.powerstream.com/dc2.htm I use the PST-P90W model. Just feed the power supply from the EMS relay connection and connect the switched output to the coil feed wire. Set it to 15 volts to start.
Enjoy - that's why I still use stock coils. And it's not even expensive.
My installation: http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...t/Dscn1618.jpg
.
06-01-2009, 11:42 AM
#696
06-01-2009, 08:02 PM
#697
06-01-2009, 08:46 PM
#698
That's one of the best bang for the buck for sure, Lol. But you would be surprise, I have cleaned a crap load of bolts on the bench grinder and that cost me nothing. Today I did cut a bunch of vacuum hoses that only cost 30$. 
06-02-2009, 05:19 AM
#699
Just got an e-mail from Jason Dear for the blaZt kit, he mentioned that a new functionality will allow the software to interface with the ECU map, that should be available soon. I'm going to order the full kit.
I also received another e-mail from Ryan Zupancic from Innovate Motorsports, he suggested that I get the Innovate LC-1 with DB, so I'll bite the bullet and order that as well.
I'll check to see if there is some GD on the LC-1 and EU an order asap.
I also received another e-mail from Ryan Zupancic from Innovate Motorsports, he suggested that I get the Innovate LC-1 with DB, so I'll bite the bullet and order that as well.
I'll check to see if there is some GD on the LC-1 and EU an order asap.
06-02-2009, 06:56 AM
#700
Bolts? I spent all day Sunday cleaning and polishing over 100 bolts for my ongoing engine build. That takes way too much time, but you gotta get rid of the RTV. Plus, this one needs to look good..
.
06-02-2009, 07:42 AM
#701
Really? Thanks for the blaZt info - I'll check up on that, to see if I can upgrade my package. Interesting.....
Bolts? I spent all day Sunday cleaning and polishing over 100 bolts for my ongoing engine build. That takes way too much time, but you gotta get rid of the RTV. Plus, this one needs to look good..
.
Bolts? I spent all day Sunday cleaning and polishing over 100 bolts for my ongoing engine build. That takes way too much time, but you gotta get rid of the RTV. Plus, this one needs to look good..
.
06-06-2009, 06:38 AM
#702
I have a quick question since no one have answered in the S/C forum. I was told to get a ( T or is a Tee adaptor ) in order to feed the blower with oil, can I just buy any standard fitting or is it a specific one that Stillen sell ? I just bought a new oil switch, so the adaptor would screw on the block and then the oil switch would screw on the adaptor ?
I know I can get a T at the local shop but just to be sure.
Thanks
I know I can get a T at the local shop but just to be sure.
Thanks
06-06-2009, 06:50 AM
#703
BTW thanks greymax99, I just ordered the blaZt software this am along with the USB cable, I'm also ordering the LC1+PB. At this point I'm only missing EU & the PC Netbook, but that will be done shortly.
06-06-2009, 07:32 AM
#704
I have a quick question since no one have answered in the S/C forum. I was told to get a ( T or is a Tee adaptor ) in order to feed the blower with oil, can I just buy any standard fitting or is it a specific one that Stillen sell ? I just bought a new oil switch, so the adaptor would screw on the block and then the oil switch would screw on the adaptor ?
I know I can get a T at the local shop but just to be sure.
Thanks
I know I can get a T at the local shop but just to be sure.
Thanks
06-06-2009, 08:59 AM
#705
Ok I nail it down this morning, I though it was metric but it's not so check what I did, I hope that the way to do it, also the latest engine pics as this am. Now just waiting for that tranny to be done and I'm ready to drop the engine.
[URL=http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y89/2k1maxima/?
[URL=http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y89/2k1maxima/?
06-06-2009, 09:23 AM
#706
Yo man, that looks so bad ***. I think you need to mod the G35 underpanel/splash guard to fit. Ive been thinking about doing it, but you need to do it for sure so that engine stays nice and clean.
06-06-2009, 10:32 AM
#707
That will be a nice project for those never ending winter day. Lol
06-07-2009, 07:00 AM
#709
06-08-2009, 12:28 PM
#712
Thank you guys for the good words, this is very encouraging me to keep a high level of quality and finishes. I hope this help others who are also passionate about their ride.
On a side note, my AT housing is going to be ready for media blasting tomorrow, the transmission shop owner will give me his evaluation of my AT when I pick-up the housing tomorrow, so hopefully there wont be too much work involve with the internals.
On a side note, my AT housing is going to be ready for media blasting tomorrow, the transmission shop owner will give me his evaluation of my AT when I pick-up the housing tomorrow, so hopefully there wont be too much work involve with the internals.
06-08-2009, 12:49 PM
#714
Thank you guys for the good words, this is very encouraging me to keep a high level of quality and finishes. I hope this help others who are also passionate about their ride.
On a side note, my AT housing is going to be ready for media blasting tomorrow, the transmission shop owner will give me his evaluation of my AT when I pick-up the housing tomorrow, so hopefully there wont be too much work involve with the internals.
On a side note, my AT housing is going to be ready for media blasting tomorrow, the transmission shop owner will give me his evaluation of my AT when I pick-up the housing tomorrow, so hopefully there wont be too much work involve with the internals.
I would like to hear whatever your transmission guy has to say - I'm getting worried about how my third VLSD transmission is going to handle my latest Cosworth-based engine.
06-08-2009, 01:05 PM
#715
When I read Jim's exploit whit his fast N/A track car and the stock AT, I think we should be fine, but I know he's using the Suprastick, wich probably help make a better use of the AT component. I hope that I can live a year or two with my AT, then if I have to I'll have a full rebuild with level 10 or the other company that compete with them.
For now I hope that, the VB recalibration, the higher stall converter, the tranny cooler, along with whatever works they do on the AT ie: seals, clutch, solenoid and the best synthetic oil available should be fine for a while, this is what I hope. I'm also thinking of using the Suprastick, but that might be for next spring. My hat is quite full for now, dealing with all the electronic, like EU, wide band and such tell me that I'm going to spend many night in the garage before all this works fine.
06-08-2009, 02:44 PM
#716
What I was told is there are kit available to replace the seals, clutch and solenoid but as far as the gear it self, I have no clue. I did a lot of research but I couldn't find anything that is related to gear, so I think this would have to be custom made and would be very expensive.
06-08-2009, 04:40 PM
#717
I guess I'm going to try to find a local shop that has the know how and see how much it would cost. My car will not be a track car, I might go once or twice but it will rather be a show car that I'll drive on nice summer day so to speak. With all the details that is involve I'm better do most of the work before I put it back on the road, even if I have I cant drive it this summer...( well I hope not, but you see what I mean ).
06-08-2009, 08:03 PM
#718
This member did his automatic transmission:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hville-tn.html
And I bought his cryoed axles for my drag car.....
Here is a small shop in Kansas that cryos lots af racers' transmissions:
http://performancecryogenics.org/
Another cryo shop:
http://www.nwcryo.com/motorsports_price.html
And some details about the process:
http://www.sigmaauto.com/cryogenics/portal.php
Hope some of this helps.....
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hville-tn.html
And I bought his cryoed axles for my drag car.....
Here is a small shop in Kansas that cryos lots af racers' transmissions:
http://performancecryogenics.org/
Another cryo shop:
http://www.nwcryo.com/motorsports_price.html
And some details about the process:
http://www.sigmaauto.com/cryogenics/portal.php
Hope some of this helps.....
06-08-2009, 08:25 PM
#719
I'm really surprise of the price they charge, I was under the impression that it was way more expensive, I'll definitely have my AT gears and part cryoed. That sound like a cheap way to improve what I already have.
Thanks a bunch.
AA
Thanks a bunch.
AA
06-09-2009, 12:45 AM
#720
It's really fairly simple. There is one wire from the EMS relay that feeds all six coils with battery voltage. On the 4th gen cars, the one wire goes through a connector near the battery - in my case, it's a red wire. This wire can be cut - and put male and female connectors on the ends so you can re-connect them.
Now, usually just battery voltage gets to the coils - but if you provide a higher voltage to the coils, they will put out much more voltage. I use 15 volts, and some others may use 16 volts. That's all you need to keep a decent spark gap. I run a 175-shot of nitrous at .035" gap on the plugs, which works quite well.
How do you raise the coil voltage? I use an automotive power supply with internal regulation and a switchable output. See it here: http://www.powerstream.com/dc2.htm I use the PST-P90W model. Just feed the power supply from the EMS relay connection and connect the switched output to the coil feed wire. Set it to 15 volts to start.
Enjoy - that's why I still use stock coils. And it's not even expensive.
My installation: http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...t/Dscn1618.jpg
.
Now, usually just battery voltage gets to the coils - but if you provide a higher voltage to the coils, they will put out much more voltage. I use 15 volts, and some others may use 16 volts. That's all you need to keep a decent spark gap. I run a 175-shot of nitrous at .035" gap on the plugs, which works quite well.
How do you raise the coil voltage? I use an automotive power supply with internal regulation and a switchable output. See it here: http://www.powerstream.com/dc2.htm I use the PST-P90W model. Just feed the power supply from the EMS relay connection and connect the switched output to the coil feed wire. Set it to 15 volts to start.
Enjoy - that's why I still use stock coils. And it's not even expensive.
My installation: http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...t/Dscn1618.jpg
.