harmbone2k2

iTrader: (1)

I already have an SAFCII installed and tuned but I have seen a few members on here that have a much straighter line than mine. Mods are I/H/E/UDP

NiSmOVQ35

iTrader: (1)

i dont belivbe the vafc II will do much on top of the safc II jsut need a better tune from a shop i believe.


or just EU that bit**

harmbone2k2

iTrader: (1)

An EU is tempting...I guess I should do A LOT MORE research on Dandymax's experience. Thanks for the info.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

SAFC II = 12 correction points, VAFCII = 24 tuning points. In theory, this would allow better resolution which should make it easier to make the AFR curve flatter.

95BLKMAX

iTrader: (10)

This is weird, and its not the 1st time I see this. I have only 8 tuning points on my SAFC- and my a/f curve is noticeably (not completely straight, but more so than your graph) straighter than yours.

Just a thought in my head. Not that there's anything wrong since so many others have similar curves.

And to answer the question, it SHOULD. Is it worth the switch over? thats up to you. I say just keep fine-tuning with what you have. Cus if I can match your curve, or be slightly straighter, with 4 less points, I dont see why anyone else cant do it. Then again last year I was living strapped on the dyno, so I had plenty of time to fine-tune, hahah

harmbone2k2

iTrader: (1)

I hate to buy a used vafcII and I cannot find a new one for any less than $269(optionimports) This is going to be my last performance mod after I finish the SSIM and Vias removal. I MIGHT need to purchase the TS L-spec ECU for the redline increase to see optimal gains for that<---That's for another thread. It's been said before that these cars can be quite different from each other so we'll see about mine(straightening out my AFR that is).

And no I will not be purchasing and EU, EB, UTEC, or any other Fuel management products.

killerVQ30DE

A novice tuner mistake I have seen is wasting correction points by trying to correct below 3000rpm or over 5600rpm .. if you only have 8 points then your best to only use them where the A/F is dip/peaking

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

killervq30de brings up a good point. at what rpms are you making your corrections?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I correct mine all the way to 7000, and if I had a stock rev limit, I would correct to 6500. Not sure where 5600 comes into play here.

harmbone2k2

iTrader: (1)

I retract my statement in post #6...I will be getting an EB to advance my timing and tune my car MUCH better than it is now. More to come on that in a few months.

kzoosho

iTrader: (16)

U do know that eb wont raise your rev limit right?

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

why not?

kzoosho

iTrader: (16)

Not ultimate here we are talking about blue.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

yea. the rev limiter is a fuel cut. so all you need to do is add fuel (simplified explination). why wouldnt the blue be able to add fuel close to the redline to fight the fuel cut?

kzoosho

iTrader: (16)

Because you would need to add more fuel than blue will let you.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

okay. didn't know the blues limitation. that would explain it then.

the blue cant add enough fuel? whats the most/least fuel the blue can add/subtract?

harmbone2k2

iTrader: (1)

I am not worried about increasing the redline...it's just something I am not interested in doing. Not a lot of people have posted much about the EB on here, but when I get this installed and git'r'tuned I will have more info on it. Like I said before, it will be a few(3-4) months. But, thanks for the info though, I will definitely need as much of it as possible due to my ignorant a$$.