ohhhh its cause it doesnt come with the gauge, thast why its so cheap. gotta get the gauge after that hmm.

 

Slight hijack but would this be the LC1 that everyone's referring to and would it be suitable for use with an EU?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Innov...spagenameZWDVW

 

The gauge is absolutely useless for tuning and that is what a wideband is for.

If you just want something to look pretty and make you feel good there are lots of things you can get that are much cheaper than a wideband.

 

its still got the connections for the gauge there though, right?

i would liek a gauge yes, i just like to be able to monitor stuff.

and holy SHiz tht!! thats a good price

 

There you go $20 cheaper on fleabay.

 

i flippin love it!!

 

You can get a gauge for $99 you don't need the LC-16

 

oh i see it i see...hmm....something ot think about since its easier to spend 170 now and 100 later than all at once right now. i wonder how compatible other company gauges are.

 

I find a gauge useful with my LRMAF, it lets me adjust my idle AFR w/o having to log/download/view.

Other than that it is useless. Screw the gauge, get the RPM converter instead.

 

wtf am i going to fill my quadruple a pillar pods with? voltage gauges and outside air temp???

edit- what the hell is an rpm converter.

 

If you have an EU or UTEC you don't need the RPM convertor.

 

i does not have^^^

 

I don’t have either,
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/kits.php

Cliffs: Logworks software.

It seems from what I remember, some people get the software w/the WB, but do not get a data signal vs RPM, only vs time, which is not very convenient. But it is doable (convert t to RPM), but IMO, is much more convenient to use RPM for tuning purposes.

And you could also log other 0-5v sensors, as I have posted earlier in this thread, it is useful.

 

ehhh. i think im gonna just snag this ebay lc-1 while i have the chance. it'll get me started at least. i thought you were sayin something extended-rev limiter-like.

 

A gauge is useful if you want to keep an eye on your a/f real time without having to log. What NmexMAX already said...

 

Hmm.. I want to add something here to what I said before (see below). For some reason I wasn't thinking of the PLX being off more than .1 AFR (not a full point) from the factory like some of the others. For an N/A setup, where you're not running as rich and not likely re-tuning much beyond the initial tune, .1 accuracy on a new sensor isn't a big concern IMO. Power output or safety isn't going to change much with .1 variance. It's not like you need a lab grade for that level of modification. If indeed the PLX is off a full point though (1.0), then I wouldn't choose it even for a basic bolt-on setup. It is true that the drift of a sensor is still a consideration (how often do you want to change a sensor?), but maybe less so with N/A since the mixtures are leaner than with boosted apps.

Personally the LC-1 has been my #1 choice for a while (first learned about its differences about 8 months ago), but I don't think the average enthusiast with the basic bolt-ons has to be scared or paranoid that their engine is going to blow up on them if they didn't use an Innovative product, especially if the sensor is relatively new.

 

I was wondering why you said the other units would be ok for a typical N/A setup etc.

For those that didn't read the sticky here are the results.

The Zeitronix exhibited accuracy of +/- .54 AFR, and gradual lean drift under some conditions. The included logging software was relatively difficult and lacked features.

The PLX M300 included no logging software, and exhibited accuracy at +/- 1 AFR (the worst tested).

 

I have the Zeitronix and boy does it lean drift. Itll read 21.0 at idle wtf. I think i am going to get a lc1. What i should have got the first time. But you live and you learn.

 

So, because the R-300 has great logging capability, does that make it ok?

 

That's probably not lean drift, I'd say that's something wrong. Lean drift means the sensor will start to read a bit off gradually over time, and eventually even a couple points off, but we're not talking about all the way to 21 from 12 or 13 or 14.7 - that's crazy far. If you're seeing 21 you've got too much air going past the sensor somehow (leak?) or it or the circuit is malfunctioning/damaged.


Yeah I was going from memory and remembered wrongly a lot of the numbers, especially the PLX number as .1 instead of 1... When I go back and look at it now I see the list is worse than I remembered.

I still think .1 or .2 off isn't a huge deal for a mild N/A setup (for the average enthusiast), if the drift is minimal, but a higher innacuracy, like say .5 or 1, I wouldn't touch. Looking at the chart again there's really only 1 good choice - Innovative. Sorry for the confusion. Darn lousy memory...

 

I used to think that too, but then when you consider where you could be if the AFR is off by 1 and not .1... then , as Dandy posted above. Especially if you are running it pretty lean, which I'm not sure if you are or not. And IIRC, this is a possibility even with a new sensor, and not just one that has deteriorated over time.

 

I will have to look into that.

 

For those who haven't seen the sticky: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=550366