I've read various write ups over the past couple weeks on the 3.5 swap in a 4th gen. Some write ups were unclear in certain areas and other writes didn't include some of the steps. My main question has to do with the 3.0 cam timing gear in to the 3.5 motor. Do all of the sprockets and chains from the 3.0 get put onto the 3.5 cams? Also a couple of write ups mentioned drilling a whole on both intake cames 180 degrees away from the other whole for the dowel, the write up on nycmaximas does not mention drilling the whole in the intake cams. Also if this is necessary, how big does the whole need to be in diameter and how deep? Another question is about pullys, do you use all the pullys from the 3.5?

 

bump....

i have the same question about the cam drilling. i have read alot but can't seem to find.... but what if i did the swap with aftermarket cams? still drill?

 

The simple answer is that you buy cam adapters from Stephen Max - here on the forum - install all the 3.0 timing components using those adapters, and use the 3.0 pulley. I too wondered about using the 3.5 front pulley, but I didn't. Some guys like to mess around with drilling cam holes, but that's not for a beginner.

 

Leading up to my 3.5 swap, this is what I've gathered from all the discussion, and here's what I did.

In order to use the A32 ECU, you must use the 3.0 cam timing components. Also, you will have to decide if you are capable of drilling the cams for the new dowel pins. If not, you must purchase adaptors from a trusted forum member.

If you go with the adaptors, you pretty much have to accept the cam timing the fabricator provides. You see, losing the variable cam timing feature of the 3.5 engine forces you to choose where you would like your powerband to be, since it is no longer variable.

If you are confident about drilling the cams yourself, then you must also choose the pin placement. 180 degrees out is not the ideal location, even though it is very convenient.

Then, from experience, planning, research and a little compromise, you choose and drill the new pin holes. It takes a dial indicator, a degree wheel, and several hours of trial & error. That's how I did it.

 

great info^ your saying you drilled your own correct? how does your powerband compare to those running the standard adapter timing??

 

Yes, I drilled my own cams. As for powerband difference, I wish I knew. This car is the only one like it I have ever driven, so I don't really know. I simply picked a point halfway between full advance & full retard on the intake cam sprocket. Whatever point you select, it won't be wrong. There just may be a better one, but without a lot of comparison data, you will never know. Just read a lot, talk to some more people who have done it, then decide.

 

u guys sure your supposed to use the 3.0 crank pulley? i mean its not the 3.0 crank in the 3.5 block so idk why u would go with the 3.0?

 

It doesn't matter which pulley you use 3.0, 3.5 or aftermarket. The 3.0 pulley is approx 1 lb lighter than the 3.5.

 

sorry i'm a little confused....did you drill the intake cam sprocket or the cam shaft?

which would be better to drill? easiest i mean....

 

Well, the cam sprocket would be easier to actually drill, but much more difficult to locate the correct place TO drill.

What you would need is the new hole location in reference to the existing one. As far as I know, that info is not available. Plus, if it was, it would be according to the provider, based on HIS compromise of powerband, since the variable function is eliminated.

The whole problem is that there is no good way for the guy in his garage to determine where the hole should be, and then drill the hole in that exact location. It will be an exact estimation at best. We are talking about camshaft rotation degrees here, and there 360 of them. So in theory we are saying there are 360 places in that camshaft end or camshaft sprocket to drill this hole, and only a handful are correct.

Sorry, I can't explain it much better that that. I agree, it's terrible. I tried.

 

so i'm guessing the safest and esiest thing is to just have the cams sent off and drilled?

 

I would say yes, if you can find someone to do it. The cam adapters have given certain people trouble, depending on how they were made and who constructed them. Me, I didn't care for the idea, so I drilled my cams myself.

 

Thats actually one of the best examples i've heard on this subject. It makes it easy to understand.

 

ok i see....

that's awesome that you drilled the cam yourself. i'm the type of person that likes to do things myself to my own car....i live here in arkansas and i imagine that there isn't anyone close to me that would know what to do.

i have searched and found one picture of the cam drilled....are there anymore pictures? or could you give me some more pointers about drilling the intake cam? because i will be drilling it myself. i know 180 degrees isn't the best....so is it like 150 degrees clock wise or counterclock wise??

thanks!

 

Your life would be simpler if you bought the pre-made cam adapters from Stephen Max and installed them following instructions from this forum - especially using the 3.0 exhaust cam pins ( longer ).

I can testify that these work well on a 3.5 and generate LOTS of power. Stephen does a class job.

 

those will work fine with 3.5 aftermarket cams right?

adapters seem like they would be much much nicer! haha

thanks for the info!

 

those adapters will work fine with 3.5 aftermarket cams right?

adapters seem much much nicer! haha

thanks for the info!

 

sorry about the double post...

what directions are you refering too? i haven't read too many things regarding the adapters....

 

You could start with the sticky at the top of "ALL MOTOR" : "**Read-me** VQ35 and 00VI swap info" .. There are major contributions from the gurus of 3.5-swap in here, and there are many more threads deeper down into ALL MOTOR.

My adapters before installation:




Short pin - Long pin:




.

 

grey99max your awesome! thanks for all the info!

yeah i have been reading though here and there. i just get a little confused and want to hear it first hand sometimes. thanks!


if these adapters are used then the JWT cam spacer doesn't need to be used correct?

 

That's correct.... and I remember I had to read up a LOT on the process, before I started on my 3.5 build. I took it down to a short block, replaced the rod bolts with ARPs, wire-brushed the block (all mating surfaces) and the piston tops, assembled the Ebay S1 cams onto the heads, used 3-layer 350Z head gaskets, new OEM head bolts, wirebrushed the inner and outer covers, assembled the rear cover, timing components, outer cover, valve covers (spray-painted with clear enamel) and on and on. Asked questions, posted photos with questions, listened to the answers here, and in general learned a bunch about my new motor.

It was traumatic, nerveracking, and a total rush to start it up. I had ..Z350 do a SSIM intake, just built a better short-ram intake, installed a PLX R-300 wideband, and I'm ready for a dyno soon. Then back to the strip...

This is the most fun you can have with your clothes on - including helmet and fire jacket.

 

yeah man i'm excited about doing this....there is still quite a bit of fear though! haha

what was our reasoning for changing the rods?

i'm going to be putting aftermarket cams in also....with a supercharger in the future....do you happen to know the best aftermarket cams for boosting? are the $500 ebay cams good for that?

also did you install aftermarket springs?

sorry for all the questions!

 

rod bolts, not rods - the OEM ones have failed at higher RPMs, I have heard - like at 7100 - but it's cheap insurance... stock valve springs as recommended by the seller.

My cams were Ebay, under $500, and installed perfectly. I don't know boost - i do know spray.