How To: Suprastick V4 install
08-10-2008, 06:29 PM
#1
How To: Suprastick V4 install
Got a few requests on a how to for this so i decided to do a write up.
i'm not going to go too much into the basics of wire work. If you don't know how to work with wiring, i suggest you do some research before looking at this. anyways, lets begin...
the suprastick manual can be downloaded here:
http://www.latentsolutions.com/Download.html
Tools needed
1. Wire stripper
2. wire taps
3. wire quick connectors (slide or bullet style)
4. soldering iron
5. a lot of wires
Additional parts needed:
1. DB9 male to DB9 male serial cable (for LCD screen)
2. Null modem adapter (for LCD screen)
3. USB to serial cable
4. 16x2 LCD screen with serial port (optional but recommended)
5. shift light (optional)
6. two SPST toggle switches
before you begin, disconnect the neg terminal of the battery
Step 1:
remove shifter trim, ash tray, and the whole middle piece (one w/ the cupholder and armrest) for easier access to the TCM.
Step 2:
locate the TCM, should be directly in front of you, you can't miss it. looks like the ECU. remove clear plastic cover. here you will need to identify just 2 wires, one for solenoid A and other for solenoid B. these are the solenoids that controls your gear shifting.
Step 3:
intercept wires 6 and 7 like so:
*Optional* If you want to let the suprastick control the TC lockup feature, you will have to cut wire #5 on the TCM and connect it to wire #15 on the suprastick. Then you will have to find an adequate brake signal source to tap into.
Step 4:
Finish wiring all the other wires
Suprastick:
wire 1: wire to ground source
wire 2: wire to a SPST switch, other end to +12V source
wire 3: tap into pin 24 on ecu
wire 4: refer to step 3
wire 5: refer to step 3
wire 8: Tap into pin#28 on the middle harness behind the gauge cluster.
wire 9: tap into pin 23 on ecu
wire 10: tap into pin #1 on the ASCD, located above the gas pedal (EL 151 of FSM)
wire 11: tap into pin 5 on ecu
wire 12: optional, refer to step 3
wire 13: refer to step 3
wire 14: refer to step 3
wire 15: optional, refer to step 3
wire 16: optional
wire 17: tap into pin #2 on the ASCD, located above the gas pedal (EL 151 of FSM)
wire 18: Optional
wire 19: Optional
wire 20: wire to a SPST switch, other end to a +12V source
for Wires 18 and 19, again this is optional. this is for the drop resistor, to run maximum pressure for the tranny line. i have mine connected to another toggle switch but if you want the suprastick to control it, just run it inline with the two wires on the drop resistor.
Step 5:
* Now for the programming. I'm not going to go too much into detail for this part b/c thats what the manual is for. But there are a couple things that i need to mention that will save you time and headaches.
* For the initial setup, when your setting up your hyperterminal, select the correct COM port and follow all the settings. One thing you want to keep an eye on is the "hardware flow control" setting. try setting the flow control to hardware first and see if the hyperterminal screen corresponds when you push 1. if it doesn't, disconnect, go back into the flow control setting and turn hardware flow to NONE. Now it should work.
* Couple things for the Vehicle settings. One advice is, keep the speed sensor teeth to 20 and just adjust the rear end ratio until the spd display matches the speed on the gauge cluster. Best to do this w/ 2 people, one driving at a constant speed of say 20 mph, and the other adjusting the rear end ratio.
* For tire size, use the tire calculator, http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
and record the diameter of your tire size.
* Also, remember to correctly adjust the shift pattern under the shift solenoid setup. by default its for the supra.
* for the automapping, the stock ecu defines your driving style, and not the other way around. The SSv4 will learn the stock ecu shift points if you have the stock ecu hooked up to it. Just drive the car once through the largest throttle range possible for as large a speed range possible and you are done. It is usually just quicker to tweak the base map provided, however.
that should do it. if anyone is interested in doing this and have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
i'm not going to go too much into the basics of wire work. If you don't know how to work with wiring, i suggest you do some research before looking at this. anyways, lets begin...
the suprastick manual can be downloaded here:
http://www.latentsolutions.com/Download.html
Tools needed
1. Wire stripper
2. wire taps
3. wire quick connectors (slide or bullet style)
4. soldering iron
5. a lot of wires
Additional parts needed:
1. DB9 male to DB9 male serial cable (for LCD screen)
2. Null modem adapter (for LCD screen)
3. USB to serial cable
4. 16x2 LCD screen with serial port (optional but recommended)
5. shift light (optional)
6. two SPST toggle switches
before you begin, disconnect the neg terminal of the battery
Step 1:
remove shifter trim, ash tray, and the whole middle piece (one w/ the cupholder and armrest) for easier access to the TCM.
Step 2:
locate the TCM, should be directly in front of you, you can't miss it. looks like the ECU. remove clear plastic cover. here you will need to identify just 2 wires, one for solenoid A and other for solenoid B. these are the solenoids that controls your gear shifting.
Step 3:
intercept wires 6 and 7 like so:
*Optional* If you want to let the suprastick control the TC lockup feature, you will have to cut wire #5 on the TCM and connect it to wire #15 on the suprastick. Then you will have to find an adequate brake signal source to tap into.
Step 4:
Finish wiring all the other wires
Suprastick:
wire 1: wire to ground source
wire 2: wire to a SPST switch, other end to +12V source
wire 3: tap into pin 24 on ecu
wire 4: refer to step 3
wire 5: refer to step 3
wire 8: Tap into pin#28 on the middle harness behind the gauge cluster.
wire 9: tap into pin 23 on ecu
wire 10: tap into pin #1 on the ASCD, located above the gas pedal (EL 151 of FSM)
wire 11: tap into pin 5 on ecu
wire 12: optional, refer to step 3
wire 13: refer to step 3
wire 14: refer to step 3
wire 15: optional, refer to step 3
wire 16: optional
wire 17: tap into pin #2 on the ASCD, located above the gas pedal (EL 151 of FSM)
wire 18: Optional
wire 19: Optional
wire 20: wire to a SPST switch, other end to a +12V source
for Wires 18 and 19, again this is optional. this is for the drop resistor, to run maximum pressure for the tranny line. i have mine connected to another toggle switch but if you want the suprastick to control it, just run it inline with the two wires on the drop resistor.
Step 5:
* Now for the programming. I'm not going to go too much into detail for this part b/c thats what the manual is for. But there are a couple things that i need to mention that will save you time and headaches.
* For the initial setup, when your setting up your hyperterminal, select the correct COM port and follow all the settings. One thing you want to keep an eye on is the "hardware flow control" setting. try setting the flow control to hardware first and see if the hyperterminal screen corresponds when you push 1. if it doesn't, disconnect, go back into the flow control setting and turn hardware flow to NONE. Now it should work.
* Couple things for the Vehicle settings. One advice is, keep the speed sensor teeth to 20 and just adjust the rear end ratio until the spd display matches the speed on the gauge cluster. Best to do this w/ 2 people, one driving at a constant speed of say 20 mph, and the other adjusting the rear end ratio.
* For tire size, use the tire calculator, http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
and record the diameter of your tire size.
* Also, remember to correctly adjust the shift pattern under the shift solenoid setup. by default its for the supra.
* for the automapping, the stock ecu defines your driving style, and not the other way around. The SSv4 will learn the stock ecu shift points if you have the stock ecu hooked up to it. Just drive the car once through the largest throttle range possible for as large a speed range possible and you are done. It is usually just quicker to tweak the base map provided, however.
that should do it. if anyone is interested in doing this and have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
08-11-2008, 04:43 AM
#2
Nice, great job.
I guess I should have done that but if I did a write-up on all my mods I wouldn't have any time to race and thats my full time job.
The more I use the Suprastick the more I love it. I don't use the manual mode except for doing 2nd and 3rd gear run for a/f and timing etc.
Yesterday I was coming up a slow gentle hill and just stepped on it a bit, it kicked down to 3rd and stayed there until I crested the hill and increased in speed. The stock tcm would never have done that.
I guess I should have done that but if I did a write-up on all my mods I wouldn't have any time to race and thats my full time job.
The more I use the Suprastick the more I love it. I don't use the manual mode except for doing 2nd and 3rd gear run for a/f and timing etc.
Yesterday I was coming up a slow gentle hill and just stepped on it a bit, it kicked down to 3rd and stayed there until I crested the hill and increased in speed. The stock tcm would never have done that.
Last edited by Jime; 08-20-2008 at 03:24 PM.
08-20-2008, 02:49 PM
#3
Very nice writeup. I finally wired up my manual switch its pretty cool. Something im curious about i wanna know if you guys are experiencing or know how to adjust it. When your upshifting and cruising you slow down and start down shifting, lets say im at a higher speed when 2nd here will be at like 4k or so and i downshift into 2nd, the car does not engine brake like when you use the car's shifter, when you accelerate there is no response till after 2k or so then the car moves as if it was a high stall or something. Can this be adjusted or what exactly is this? I wanna know what the tranny is doing while its down shifting.
08-20-2008, 04:29 PM
#4
Very nice writeup. I finally wired up my manual switch its pretty cool. Something im curious about i wanna know if you guys are experiencing or know how to adjust it. When your upshifting and cruising you slow down and start down shifting, lets say im at a higher speed when 2nd here will be at like 4k or so and i downshift into 2nd, the car does not engine brake like when you use the car's shifter, when you accelerate there is no response till after 2k or so then the car moves as if it was a high stall or something. Can this be adjusted or what exactly is this? I wanna know what the tranny is doing while its down shifting.
its just like that unfortunately
08-20-2008, 09:44 PM
#5
i just got a response from Garrett: "The P-N-D shifter mechanically engages the 2nd gear braking band to enable that – it is mechanically disabled with the car in the “D” range. It’s much easier on the life of the transmission, as you would burn out the bands much faster than you would burn out your brakes. There are ways to enable full time engine braking if you have a built transmission, but it is not recommended unless you do. "
08-21-2008, 01:53 PM
#6
i just got a response from Garrett: "The P-N-D shifter mechanically engages the 2nd gear braking band to enable that – it is mechanically disabled with the car in the “D” range. It’s much easier on the life of the transmission, as you would burn out the bands much faster than you would burn out your brakes. There are ways to enable full time engine braking if you have a built transmission, but it is not recommended unless you do. "
There are only 5 different controls on our trans. A & B which control the shifts, Lockup, Line pressure and the overrun clutch. They can all be controlled manually or automatically. Its pretty basic when you really look at it.
Last edited by Jime; 08-21-2008 at 02:42 PM.
08-21-2008, 05:18 PM
#7
I just have the overrun clutch on a separate switch so I can engage when I want. It works great at the track at the end of the run to aid in slowing down. Although I do have a built transmission, it was built by Nissan.
There are only 5 different controls on our trans. A & B which control the shifts, Lockup, Line pressure and the overrun clutch. They can all be controlled manually or automatically. Its pretty basic when you really look at it.
There are only 5 different controls on our trans. A & B which control the shifts, Lockup, Line pressure and the overrun clutch. They can all be controlled manually or automatically. Its pretty basic when you really look at it.
10-03-2008, 05:03 PM
#13
I will be using paddle shifters
once I get around to it....
but the steering wheel bore is the same as the 350z's so you can use these:
http://www.worksbell.co.jp/en/produc...paddle_neo.htm
but the side effect is you have to use an aftermarket steering wheel which is no big whoop for me since I was already gonna do that.
I currently have a tranny that I want to rebuild first and do some other things, but you should see something from me about it at the first of the year
once I get around to it....
but the steering wheel bore is the same as the 350z's so you can use these:
http://www.worksbell.co.jp/en/produc...paddle_neo.htm
but the side effect is you have to use an aftermarket steering wheel which is no big whoop for me since I was already gonna do that.
I currently have a tranny that I want to rebuild first and do some other things, but you should see something from me about it at the first of the year
10-04-2008, 11:06 AM
#14
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 253
I will be using paddle shifters
once I get around to it....
but the steering wheel bore is the same as the 350z's so you can use these:
http://www.worksbell.co.jp/en/produc...paddle_neo.htm
but the side effect is you have to use an aftermarket steering wheel which is no big whoop for me since I was already gonna do that.
I currently have a tranny that I want to rebuild first and do some other things, but you should see something from me about it at the first of the year
once I get around to it....
but the steering wheel bore is the same as the 350z's so you can use these:
http://www.worksbell.co.jp/en/produc...paddle_neo.htm
but the side effect is you have to use an aftermarket steering wheel which is no big whoop for me since I was already gonna do that.
I currently have a tranny that I want to rebuild first and do some other things, but you should see something from me about it at the first of the year
10-14-2008, 05:59 PM
#16
10-28-2008, 06:16 PM
#18
I have a 99 max. Can pin 29 (Vehicle speed sensor) be used for the speed input or do I have to go behind the guage cluster? I really dont want to dig behind the cluster so I would like to know if there are any alternatives.
10-29-2008, 09:29 PM
#19
yes that should be fine but i chose to go behind the cluster b/c i already had a bunch of wires connected to the ECU. plus, the wire behind the cluster was easier to access to, dunno how hard (crowed) it is to get to pin 29.
11-04-2011, 07:14 PM
#21
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 3
Would it be possible to wire the SSv4 up to the Cruise Control and then have the shifts come from the windshield wiper fluid motion and the high beam flasher motion to create a look-a-like flappy paddle?
11-05-2011, 05:43 AM
#22
Would this work with the stock steering wheel?
http://www.worksbell.co.jp/en/produc...mn_shifter.htm
http://www.worksbell.co.jp/en/produc...mn_shifter.htm
11-06-2011, 05:54 AM
#24
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