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If you're going to install rev-up cams.......

Old Sep 6, 2008 | 08:26 PM
  #41  
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According to the 07 350Z FSM the HR has .4mm smaller intake valves and 1mm smaller exhaust valves when compared to the DE. We don't really know if they flow any better either. One thing's for sure, its LIM and UIM are superior.
Old Sep 6, 2008 | 09:32 PM
  #42  
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I could've sworn I read somewhere on here they were better and had larger valves....no matter I'm using VQ35 valves in my VQ30 heads

EDIT: I think I was thinking of valve lift...

Last edited by DrunkieTheBear; Sep 6, 2008 at 09:36 PM.
Old Sep 6, 2008 | 09:43 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by DaveVQ
EDIT: I think I was thinking of valve lift...
That's determined by the cam.
Old Sep 7, 2008 | 08:39 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by vipervadim
Very Good Job...

I've installed the first set of 350zRev-up cams in a 3.5L swap for somebody on NYCMaximas.org

I was gonna post that you DON'T have to worry about the oil passages (at least on a 3.5L)... I also used the VQ30 Cam Bolts, instead of the VQ35. 22mm head seems much sturdier, and was meant to use with the 3.0L timing (maybe acts as balancer, who knows)

you just have to be sure you set the cam spacer timing right.

I used the Cyl1 TDC and I rotated and lined up the intake + exhaust cam lobes (Lobe separation angle?) to get it right then marked the actual location of the necessary timing dowel relocation.

here's a pic of them installed (note: dual VTC intake + exhaust ring for cam sensors)



Cyl1 LSA


just wanted to share my findings since we're on the topic, and I've done it already..

Good Job

mmmm.....she looked so much cleaner back then..lol.

Well the cams have been in for sometime, and work great. As far as dyno #'s, the car was dyno'd, but it was post build (V1 kit, +all bolt ons, cams, and EU.) So there isn't a before and after dyno, sorry fellas
Old Sep 8, 2008 | 04:54 AM
  #45  
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All i was saying is that wouldn't it be easier to install the heads as one piece?
Old Sep 8, 2008 | 05:11 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by GATORMAX02
All i was saying is that wouldn't it be easier to install the heads as one piece?
What do you mean, install them completely assembled (cams and all already bolted in place)?
Old Sep 8, 2008 | 11:23 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by GATORMAX02
All i was saying is that wouldn't it be easier to install the heads as one piece?
The heads can't be installed/removed with the cams in place, so no.
Old Sep 8, 2008 | 05:42 PM
  #48  
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not to mention the cost of the heads....
Old Sep 8, 2008 | 05:50 PM
  #49  
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In other news, upon observation of stock and revup cams the centerline of the revup exhaust cams is VERY advanced compared to the standard ones. This means that the published valve event specifications is with the exhaust CVTC on (fully retarded) as I suspected. If you install the revup exhaust cams straight up there's gonna be a lot of overlap, which is good to a point; but it also delays the opening of the exhaust valves which limits top end power. I'd retard the exhaust cams so the exhaust valves open earlier than they would with the standard cams but not so much that I don't leave a bit of overlap on the table.



Random info: VQ35 heads don't need much overlap to make good power up top.
Old Sep 9, 2008 | 06:05 AM
  #50  
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But wait, I thought these were just stock replacements, now your recommending going through the trouble of degreeing and re-drilling them???
Old Sep 9, 2008 | 09:25 AM
  #51  
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Oh snap. Nevermind what I said. It's the exact opposite. They are in fact advanced, but the result of that is what I want.


Installed straight-up the exhaust valve timing is as advertised in the FSM. I'm not gonna bother touching 'em.
Old Mar 27, 2010 | 02:10 AM
  #52  
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I have a question here....(I know this is an old thread, but it was best one I found)

I have a set of Rev-Up cams I plan on installing on a DE-K I'm putting together.
I've been pouring over this forum to see what I should set the valve timing at.

I've ordered the spacers from Stephen Max, but I just need to provide him some specs for it. This is what I've come up with based on what I've read.

Advance Intake Cam 6 degrees to open at 4BTDC (closing at 64ABDC)
Leave the exhaust cam as is.

If I understand this correctly, I should have 2 degrees overlap and since I'm advancing the intake cam, I should be moving the power curve to the left.

I'm looking for a smooth idle (not so lopey), but better top-end power than stock 3.0L DEK. I not looking for the cammed up engine. I have a N/A SR20 for that....

What should I expect with these timings? ie In comparison to a stock DE-K how much low end would I lose?
If someone could provide some input I would appreciate it!

Last edited by hurddawg; Mar 27, 2010 at 02:14 AM.
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