vq30de-k build questions before I start
09-15-2008, 12:08 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 26
vq30de-k build questions before I start
I'm building a de-k for my 96 maxima over the next few weeks. I already have the ebay 3.5 cams and I'm picking the de-k up on friday. I want to put stiffer/shimed valve springs in the motor, and I plan on using an emanage to tune. A 5-speed or vlsd auto might be in the works too, if i can find one. I might do a writeup on this if there is any intrest in it, and i will post pics along the way. This is not my first engine build, but my first time working with a v-6 and a nissan engine, so i do have a few questions before i start.
I wanted to see if anyone had any ideas on types of valve springs, (vq35hr?), and on spacers for the cams. I would like to keep some bottom end torque, and i wasnt sure if the spacers could be used to set the deg. on the cams.
Also, does anybody have a set of spacers i could buy, i think stephenmax is the one that makes them but im not 100 percent on that.
kymax96
I wanted to see if anyone had any ideas on types of valve springs, (vq35hr?), and on spacers for the cams. I would like to keep some bottom end torque, and i wasnt sure if the spacers could be used to set the deg. on the cams.
Also, does anybody have a set of spacers i could buy, i think stephenmax is the one that makes them but im not 100 percent on that.
kymax96
09-15-2008, 01:06 PM
#2
I would recommend using the vq35hr valve springs and just order another 24 vq30 shims (you already have an existing set of shims in the heads). I would also go ahead and order some HR Head bolts.
If your gonna crack the bottom end apart replace the rod nut/bolt combo with OEM ones and I recommend getting the vh45 piston rings ($100) and they are a bit better IMO. Also get a stock vq35 oil pump especially if you plan to increase rev limit.
this is pretty much all the things I am doing to my motor build, besides the oversized valves (vq35 valves) and porting job. The stuff isn't really that expensive and its worth replacing all the OEM parts or upgrading them with vq35 stuff or HR stuff.
give DaveB a call.
If your gonna crack the bottom end apart replace the rod nut/bolt combo with OEM ones and I recommend getting the vh45 piston rings ($100) and they are a bit better IMO. Also get a stock vq35 oil pump especially if you plan to increase rev limit.
this is pretty much all the things I am doing to my motor build, besides the oversized valves (vq35 valves) and porting job. The stuff isn't really that expensive and its worth replacing all the OEM parts or upgrading them with vq35 stuff or HR stuff.
give DaveB a call.
09-15-2008, 03:38 PM
#3
I also ordered the Toga rod/main bearings to replace them as well.
www.importperformanceparts.net has become my friend.
www.importperformanceparts.net has become my friend.
09-15-2008, 03:51 PM
#4
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^werd
Yup you had it right, Stephenmax, and he can cut you whatever specs you want for the intake cams only, but I'll leave those sugestions for someone else, I would just have them made where he cuts them at now, I think he charges a little extra for custom specs on the intakes.
Yup you had it right, Stephenmax, and he can cut you whatever specs you want for the intake cams only, but I'll leave those sugestions for someone else, I would just have them made where he cuts them at now, I think he charges a little extra for custom specs on the intakes.
09-15-2008, 09:41 PM
#5
What's special about the VH rings? Napier-style 2nd ring? Different material?
09-16-2008, 11:35 AM
#6
As for the VH piston rings, I know a couple of people with s14s running VH45s and they push it to 9k rpms peaking at about 500 hp on stock internals, I understand that some of it also reliant on the fact of the valve springs, etc. But IIRC they are coated differently, so thats why most of those guys who rebuild the VH45s tend to stay OEM piston rings on their engines. If you gonna tear the bottom half apart, you really should replace the piston rings IMO why not go for a slight upgrade with these, they are the same price as the vq30 piston rings so why not.
09-16-2008, 01:22 PM
#7
As for the VH piston rings, I know a couple of people with s14s running VH45s and they push it to 9k rpms peaking at about 500 hp on stock internals, I understand that some of it also reliant on the fact of the valve springs, etc. But IIRC they are coated differently, so thats why most of those guys who rebuild the VH45s tend to stay OEM piston rings on their engines. If you gonna tear the bottom half apart, you really should replace the piston rings IMO why not go for a slight upgrade with these, they are the same price as the vq30 piston rings so why not.
09-16-2008, 02:42 PM
#8
As for the VH piston rings, I know a couple of people with s14s running VH45s and they push it to 9k rpms peaking at about 500 hp on stock internals, I understand that some of it also reliant on the fact of the valve springs, etc. But IIRC they are coated differently, so thats why most of those guys who rebuild the VH45s tend to stay OEM piston rings on their engines. If you gonna tear the bottom half apart, you really should replace the piston rings IMO why not go for a slight upgrade with these, they are the same price as the vq30 piston rings so why not.
09-16-2008, 05:56 PM
#9
VH45 1st and 2nd rings thickness is 1.88mm
VQ30 1st and 2nd rings thickness is 1.2mm
but I have seen piston ring thicknesses up to 1.8mm for the vq30.
In theory it will work, I am going to be trying this on my new engine.
VQ30 1st and 2nd rings thickness is 1.2mm
but I have seen piston ring thicknesses up to 1.8mm for the vq30.
In theory it will work, I am going to be trying this on my new engine.
Last edited by DrunkieTheBear; 09-16-2008 at 05:59 PM.
09-16-2008, 07:54 PM
#12
according to FSMs they are all within 0.03mm with a range of like 0.3mm-0.47mm IIRC, which I probably don't (its 11 and its beer time), but they matched up pretty much perfectly.
09-25-2008, 04:53 AM
#14
I also ordered the Toga rod/main bearings to replace them as well.
www.importperformanceparts.net has become my friend.
www.importperformanceparts.net has become my friend.
09-25-2008, 01:51 PM
#16
01-29-2009, 01:36 PM
#20
He blew a 3.0 pump then blew a revup 350Z pump as well. This tells us that the 3.0 pump is not the weak link. Crankshaft harmonics are to blame. If anyone revs a 3.0 with a stock bottom end to 7500 and higher on a regular basis that motor is on borrowed time, 3.5 pump or not.
I'm all for using better parts, but I only if I know exactly why they're better.
I'm all for using better parts, but I only if I know exactly why they're better.
I may be starting a little build in my spare time, nothing radical, just a 3.0 with cams. (side note, motor has 180k. is there a chance I can get by with just bearings, honing, and re-ringing?)
I've read people saying over and over, "the 3.0 pump sucks, get a 3.5 pump if you're revving high" I also remember one person saying the 3.5 produced almost twice the oil pressure as the 3.0 pump (when in a 3.0). Is there any merit to this? Since we know strength isn't an advantage of a 3.5 pump, are there actually any advantages? more flow?
I'm just worried about revving high ever since Dandy grenaded the rev-up pump. IIRC, he wasn't even revved high when it happened; like 4 or 5k during a burnout I think.
Also, since the cause is believed to be vibrations...would using a UDP be a bad idea? I've read that, even though there is rubber in the stock pulley, it is not a "harmonic balancer;" the vq30 has an internally balanced rotating assembly. So, theoretically, a UDP would be fine. But in the real world...I'm guessing not? Would it be a waste of time/ridiculously expensive to get it balanced?
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