REPORT!!!!

 

Ok well Im sure you all think Im crazy by now because its not in the car yet lol but Im getting there. We out the alternator, Ac compressor, powersteering belt and oil pan back on saturday. The only thing stopping us from dropping it in is the rear headers. One of the bolts is stripped and I cant get it off. I tried removing the whole stud but broke off the tip. I went to sears and bought one of the stripped bolt removal kits but it didnt have the correct size in it so I have to go back today and find the right one. Also is there supposed to be some type of spacer on the idler pulley? Im trying to put it back together but something doesnt seem right about it.

 

Yes, there is a spacer on the idler pulley. It's about 3/8" thick. Without it, the pulley will hit the threaded adjusting rod.

 

Ok thanks I'll look for it when I get home.

 

Let me know if you can't find it. I may have another one you can have.

 

Small update: I finally got the #$%^&% rusted stripped bolt off the headers and removed them. So the next step is install the new headers and drop it back in. Also how many people rewired the CPS near the tranny instead of grinding?

 

I did the first time. The car ran for a while then the sensor died
Now I have the 3.0 upper oil pan to make things more simple when it comes time to diagnose a problem.

 

???????Is it running yet

 

If you actually got the CPS from the junkyard, then they should use it and crossreference (or ask the org) about the 3 wire colors. They arent the same at all IIRC with the 3.0 sensor harness.

The last 3 motors I got that sensor was not there, and its costs over $100 for the sensor. I like the idea of swapping over the upper pan because at least you know you've resealed the motor with fresh sealant. ALSO, as KRRZ350 and I were discussing a while back, the CORRECT way to put back the motor, seal-wise is to bolt inner and outter timing covers and the upper oil pan should bolt up LAST. That's how the front and rear crescent shaped crank seals are designed.


I REQUIRE this with ANY timing job. Its like 60-70 from the dealer, cheaper at other parts stores. I also requre the 3 $3 O-rings be new that go between the block and inner timing cover. Also the one for the oil pump. I also spend the 20-30 bucks for OEM Nissan Sealant.

Granted, its not REALLY a headache to change the tensioner while the motor is in the car, as per the access panels on the side of the motor for it, but still...A beyotch indeed, not worth a tooth skipping.

You've got it easier than us since your injector connectors plug up just fine.

When doing your install, instead of unplugging sensors, just unbolt them and swing them out the way with the harness. When you drop the motor in just swing the harness back over the motor, plug in what fits, extend a few wires here and there, and bolt down the corresponding sensors. If theres an existing sensor on the motor already, just unplug the sensor off the harness and plug it into the new one.

 

I've got 4 or 5 of them laying around if you know anyone that neeeds them

 

Oh yeah, AJ, hope its coming along, this is a damn long project, lol. These are being done in weekends bro, watch a Fast and Furious Movie, get motivated and get out there, lol.

Do you have an adjustable FPR? I think this comes in handy when its time to convert the 3.5's returnless rail to the 3.0.

 

STFU!!Really? Throw that in the box with the pedal real quick, LMAO. Really though, those things are free anywhere you go, ya know (trying to get a freebie here, lol).

 

Heh. $40 and I'll throw all 4 of them in there. Last I checked (6 months ago or so), they all worked, but I as I don't have a 3.5 to test with I can't check them again.

 

Thanks for all the info man. I know its taking long but its been like 30 degrees here and I've been waiting for at least one warm day to drop it back in. No garage FTL. I do have an AFPR I ordered it months ago. I might just have to brave the cold and get it done.

 

Ok everyone please tell me I didnt do all this work for nothing. I was removing the drive plae today and notice a crack where one of the tranny bolts go. Here are some pics.

 

I broke mine off too, a long time ago...that's how I learned to not draw the trans in with the bolts.

Honestly I just left it off until my 5 speed swap, it was just sitting in my toolbox as a reminder. When I did the swap I bolted it back on place because that's where the 5 speed control rod bolts up, I've never had a problem with it.

It'll be fine once everything is bolted up, especially if it isn't all the way off yet.

 

JB WELD.... yes im serious

 

Thanks man. I'm off to bolt up the drive plate. Oh you wouldnt happen to know how much torque is needed for the driveplate bolts would you

 

Yeah that was the first thing I thought of when I saw it.

 

Another quick question what did you all use to block the egr bung on the rear headers.

 

This is more of an informational post but theres a small hole in the 3.5 auto driveplate that isnt in the 3.0 so it will need drilling to make it fit.

3.5


3.0

 

I ordered a egr block off plug from courtesy nissan for 8bucks

 

Hey you can tig weld that also if you dont want to jb that ish

 

Ive never tig welded so I'll be jb welding it.

 

Thanks I'm looking for it now.

 

Dunno actually, skimmed through the FSM but didn't see a mention of it.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/14003k-...3-p-53839.html . That's the one I'm running on mine.

Yea, it's that damn alignment dowel to make sure you get the VQ35 timing ring lined up correctly. You can just yank the dowel out of the crank too, either way it doesn't matter.

 

yeah thats it

 

According to the '99 FSM, they need 61-9 ft-lb... Section EM - Cylinder Block. Not the first place you would look, but I thought I remembered where.

 

Heh, I pulled up my last open EM section of the FSM and it was centered right on the torque specs for the flywheel/flexplate bolts. It figures I didn't look right in front of me before giving up...

 

I'd also advise you to simply JB weld that piece.

The drive plate bolts should be torqued to 61-69 ft/lbs and the threads should be lubricated with new engine oil. That's per the 02' FSM.

Edit: Just saw someone already posted the answer.

 

I got the driveplate bolted up and I'll torque them tomorrow because its freezing out. I really want to get it in tomorrow if it doesnt rain and I get some extra hands. Thanks again everyone.

 

I didn't understand why it would affect the fitment. That's just to line up the hole in the crank, but nothing bolts to it or goes through it IIRC.

 

If he's got a dowel in it, it'll keep the flexplate from laying flat to the crank.

 

Yeah theres a dowel that goes through the hole on the 3.5 driveplate. I drilled through the 3.0 plate and bolted right up.

 

Hmm, interesting, I don't know why I always remember there not being a dowel there. Good stuff though.

 

Been saying this for years but nobody seemed to listen so I gave up.

 

Only 10 more bolts away from a job correctly done.

 

Red = Tru Story

 

soooooooooooooo................................... .................................................. .....................

 

I was going to bump this thread

whats going on why isn't this motor in yet