3rd gen VQ35DE Full ECU Swap Progress Thread
#561
Geez my car is going to be like a POS compared to yours. I just taped the key to the immobilizer and stuck it under the dash and put a switch and push button to start it. Its simple but it works.
I hope at MAXUS 2009 guys understand that I am a budget racer and try to do more with less. My investment is pretty minimal compared to you and grey99max. Just hoping I can live up to expectations.
However I will be there and I'm not holding anything back, driving the car there and going full out and trying for a new record.
PS I just put a 3/4" spacer under my coils to raise the front up a bit because of the tripping of the lights.
I hope at MAXUS 2009 guys understand that I am a budget racer and try to do more with less. My investment is pretty minimal compared to you and grey99max. Just hoping I can live up to expectations.
However I will be there and I'm not holding anything back, driving the car there and going full out and trying for a new record.
PS I just put a 3/4" spacer under my coils to raise the front up a bit because of the tripping of the lights.
I'm so happy you are coming to MAXUS 09 to try to set new records. MIR is known to be one of the stickiest tracks in the east. So I hope the track conditions are good. It will be rather warm that day if the sun is out, so it may be a little tougher for you to do high 10s with the 75 shot. But who cares, that's what the 200 shot is for, right?
I consider myself a budget type racer as well. Just not as hardcore as you. But I always say to myself, "while I have the engine apart, I might as well do this". That will run up the bill really quick on a project!
Also, I'm sure you will live up to expectations! It will be a level playing field. That's what's so great about having all the fastest Maximas in the world all at the same track on the same day! Regardless of what ETs we are running, all that matters is that we are faster than the guy next to us
Did you get my PM a few days ago?
#562
Update:
Today, I picked up 8 new HR headbolts and a new HR HG. Just a few minutes ago, I finished reinstalling the head. Everything went smooth! I feel so much better this time! Right now, both heads are successfully installed and it's time to get the timing covers and chains on!
I may spend this weekend wiring in my pruned dash harness while the weather is mid 80s and sunny in NC! But as soon as the sun goes down, that's when I work on the engine inside.
Also, does anybody know the best way to adjust the APP sensor on the DBW throttle pedal assembly? I think the FSM says not to ever remove this sensor, but I did anyway in order to bend my gas pedal rod. And I think the only way to adjust it is with it all wired up in the car and connected to the ECU.
Today, I picked up 8 new HR headbolts and a new HR HG. Just a few minutes ago, I finished reinstalling the head. Everything went smooth! I feel so much better this time! Right now, both heads are successfully installed and it's time to get the timing covers and chains on!
I may spend this weekend wiring in my pruned dash harness while the weather is mid 80s and sunny in NC! But as soon as the sun goes down, that's when I work on the engine inside.
Also, does anybody know the best way to adjust the APP sensor on the DBW throttle pedal assembly? I think the FSM says not to ever remove this sensor, but I did anyway in order to bend my gas pedal rod. And I think the only way to adjust it is with it all wired up in the car and connected to the ECU.
#563
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (10)
Oh nice! Did you put rubber blocks in your coil springs? Or did you put spacers underneath your coilovers to somehow raise those? I don't have coilovers, so right now, I can't think of a way to raise my stock strut housings. I could put a rubber spacer underneath my coil spring maybe right where it meets the spring seat. What ever you are doing to achieve consistent 1.6s has my attention! And who would have known that 1.5s are possible with a FWD Maxima w/o wheelie bars?!
Did you get my PM a few days ago?
Did you get my PM a few days ago?
Also, does anybody know the best way to adjust the APP sensor on the DBW throttle pedal assembly? I think the FSM says not to ever remove this sensor, but I did anyway in order to bend my gas pedal rod. And I think the only way to adjust it is with it all wired up in the car and connected to the ECU.
MONITOR ITEM CONDITION SPECIFICATION
ACCEL SEN1 I Ignition switch: ON
(engine stopped)
Accelerator pedal: Released 0.41 - 0.71V
Accelerator pedal: Fully depressed More than 3.7V
ACCEL SEN2 I Ignition switch: ON
(engine stopped)
Accelerator pedal: Released 0.15 - 0.97V
Accelerator pedal: Fully depressed More than 3.5V
CLSD THL POS I Ignition switch: ON
Accelerator pedal: Released ON
Accelerator pedal: Slightly
depressed
OFF
Those are the specs but you are right it has to be conected to the ECU to adjust because you need the correct voltages it sends to it. I did it a couple of years ago, but i do know it will do funny stuff if its not set properly.
#565
Ya I just put the spacers under the springs on the coilovers. The coilovers were given to me by Eric in Buffalo because the aluminum adjusters are frozen to the strut and won't adjust anymore. I cut the center out of a rubber boat roller to use as the spacer. Will give it a try tomorrow with a 35 shot to see how the 60' is. Last sunday it ran 1.9's on the engine which is normal and its nice not to have to worry about bottoming out every little bump on the return road.
Specification data are reference values.
MONITOR ITEM CONDITION SPECIFICATION
ACCEL SEN1 I Ignition switch: ON
(engine stopped)
Accelerator pedal: Released 0.41 - 0.71V
Accelerator pedal: Fully depressed More than 3.7V
ACCEL SEN2 I Ignition switch: ON
(engine stopped)
Accelerator pedal: Released 0.15 - 0.97V
Accelerator pedal: Fully depressed More than 3.5V
CLSD THL POS I Ignition switch: ON
Accelerator pedal: Released ON
Accelerator pedal: Slightly
depressed
OFF
Those are the specs but you are right it has to be conected to the ECU to adjust because you need the correct voltages it sends to it. I did it a couple of years ago, but i do know it will do funny stuff if its not set properly.
Specification data are reference values.
MONITOR ITEM CONDITION SPECIFICATION
ACCEL SEN1 I Ignition switch: ON
(engine stopped)
Accelerator pedal: Released 0.41 - 0.71V
Accelerator pedal: Fully depressed More than 3.7V
ACCEL SEN2 I Ignition switch: ON
(engine stopped)
Accelerator pedal: Released 0.15 - 0.97V
Accelerator pedal: Fully depressed More than 3.5V
CLSD THL POS I Ignition switch: ON
Accelerator pedal: Released ON
Accelerator pedal: Slightly
depressed
OFF
Those are the specs but you are right it has to be conected to the ECU to adjust because you need the correct voltages it sends to it. I did it a couple of years ago, but i do know it will do funny stuff if its not set properly.
www.MAXUS09.com
Can you make it?
#567
Has anybody ever tapped into a different source for oil pressure instead of right where the oil pressure switch is? I see a bolt just above the OP switch on the side of the rear timing cover. Will this work?
I am trying to hook up my oil pressure gauge sending unit.
I am trying to hook up my oil pressure gauge sending unit.
#569
#572
NICEEEEE
i just replied to your txt, the pic was way to small on my phone!! haha
I'm make another trip out when this is up and running, just to see it, and RIDE IN IT. hhah
#573
Wow! Shes lookin great sir. Keep up the good work.
#574
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#577
nice progress.......even though my build won't be done for maxus I am in to see this car go down the track.
I notice from your posts that you took alot of time to make sure everything was perfect, that's something you only get by doing it yourself.
I notice from your posts that you took alot of time to make sure everything was perfect, that's something you only get by doing it yourself.
#580
Thank you everyone for your interest.
Today, I got the engine installed, but ran into an axle fitment issue on the passenger side. I knew the support bracket was going to be different, but I thought I was able to just fab up a bracket to allow me to use my VE passenger axle. But the 3 bolt support bracket location on the axle itself is in the way of my headers. So in order to use those bracket location, I will have to modify my cheap ebay headers drastically! And I will still have to make a custom bracket that holds the axle.
My other option may be to use a VQ passenger axle and bracket. The location of the support bracket is correct and will bolt right to the VQ35 block. And my headers will fit. But, the overall length of a 4th gen axle is about 3" longer than a VE or VG axle. So, I will have to find a way to reduce the length of the outer drive shaft by 3". In the few phones calls around town I've made, nobody knows of an axle rebuild shop in my area. But I will keep trying. Does anybody have any other ideas or does anybody know if this axle shortening idea may work? Thanks.
Today, I got the engine installed, but ran into an axle fitment issue on the passenger side. I knew the support bracket was going to be different, but I thought I was able to just fab up a bracket to allow me to use my VE passenger axle. But the 3 bolt support bracket location on the axle itself is in the way of my headers. So in order to use those bracket location, I will have to modify my cheap ebay headers drastically! And I will still have to make a custom bracket that holds the axle.
My other option may be to use a VQ passenger axle and bracket. The location of the support bracket is correct and will bolt right to the VQ35 block. And my headers will fit. But, the overall length of a 4th gen axle is about 3" longer than a VE or VG axle. So, I will have to find a way to reduce the length of the outer drive shaft by 3". In the few phones calls around town I've made, nobody knows of an axle rebuild shop in my area. But I will keep trying. Does anybody have any other ideas or does anybody know if this axle shortening idea may work? Thanks.
#582
This picture is courtesy of mmg33max. The top axle is a 4th gen, the middle is VE, and bottom is VG I believe.
So the overall length of the 4th gen axle is about 41". The VE is about 38.5". I need the long inner shaft, but if I use the VE outer shaft, it will be even longer. So I will need to shorten the 4th gen outer shaft somehow. I don't think there's a way I can just shorten the shaft. But I may need to find a drive shaft from a different engine that might be short enough. Or maybe cut a section out of the middle the shaft and somehow weld them together along with a reinforcing sleeve. I will talk with some axle rebuild shops in my area and see what my options are. But according to the pic above, the outer boot and ABS notches looks the same as the VE.
Does anybody have a spare VQ passenger axle laying around? I already have measurements from the 4th gen. If I could get pics of what the 5th gen axle looks like, it might help me.
Thanks.
#584
#586
Update: The passenger side 4th gen axles are the same part number between locking and non.
I spoke with a local axle shop and they have shortened axles before, but not in racing applications. So it will be a trial and error thing. I will need to use the VQ axle, but since it's 2.5" too long, I will need to shorten the outer shaft. Raxles doesn't think I will find a replacement outer shaft that is 2.5" shorter. Marty said that was a big difference. So cutting and welding it may be my only option right now unless someone else has another idea.
I have a $39 remanned axle that will be here tomorrow. I desperately need a VQ passenger axle support bracket! Does anybody have one that they can overnight to me today? Name your price!
I spoke with a local axle shop and they have shortened axles before, but not in racing applications. So it will be a trial and error thing. I will need to use the VQ axle, but since it's 2.5" too long, I will need to shorten the outer shaft. Raxles doesn't think I will find a replacement outer shaft that is 2.5" shorter. Marty said that was a big difference. So cutting and welding it may be my only option right now unless someone else has another idea.
I have a $39 remanned axle that will be here tomorrow. I desperately need a VQ passenger axle support bracket! Does anybody have one that they can overnight to me today? Name your price!
#587
http://www.courtesyparts.com/39781-b...784_1851_1872&
If so, I have one I could overnight to you. I'll check on the price. Let me know.
#588
Are you talking about this part?
http://www.courtesyparts.com/39781-b...784_1851_1872&
If so, I have one I could overnight to you. I'll check on the price. Let me know.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/39781-b...784_1851_1872&
If so, I have one I could overnight to you. I'll check on the price. Let me know.
I am trying to find a way to modify the stock 4th gen passenger axle to shorten it by 2.5". I don't know if I will be able to find the actual shaft in the correct length to piece everything together. My local driveshaft rebuild shop thinks that cutting a section out of it and installing a sleeve MAY work. But he's never done this on an axle that needs all the strength it can get. So if it snaps on me on one of my launches, I hope that it doesn't screw anything up.
#589
Yeap, that's the bracket. I just found it from one of my local yards for $20 about 5 minutes ago. Thanks for your help though! I won't need the bracket anymore.
I am trying to find a way to modify the stock 4th gen passenger axle to shorten it by 2.5". I don't know if I will be able to find the actual shaft in the correct length to piece everything together. My local driveshaft rebuild shop thinks that cutting a section out of it and installing a sleeve MAY work. But he's never done this on an axle that needs all the strength it can get. So if it snaps on me on one of my launches, I hope that it doesn't screw anything up.
I am trying to find a way to modify the stock 4th gen passenger axle to shorten it by 2.5". I don't know if I will be able to find the actual shaft in the correct length to piece everything together. My local driveshaft rebuild shop thinks that cutting a section out of it and installing a sleeve MAY work. But he's never done this on an axle that needs all the strength it can get. So if it snaps on me on one of my launches, I hope that it doesn't screw anything up.
If you have it shortened right in the middle, IIRC there are a few unused bolt holes in the block right in that area that would be usable for a safety loop there.
#590
If you're worried about it flopping all around, I'd put basically a driveshaft loop near the weld area. Closer to the trans, because the axle is one piece with the support bearing, so it shouldn't move around at all.
If you have it shortened right in the middle, IIRC there are a few unused bolt holes in the block right in that area that would be usable for a safety loop there.
If you have it shortened right in the middle, IIRC there are a few unused bolt holes in the block right in that area that would be usable for a safety loop there.
#591
I just spoke with www.driveshaftshop.com and they do custom builds. I was referred to them by Raxles. Once I get my hands on a 4th gen axle, I will be able to get an accurate measurement on the shaft length between the two races.
If anybody has a 4th gen passenger axle laying around, especially one that doesn't have boots on it, please let me know. I need a ballpark measurement of the outer shaft length between the two races. If I can find the correct length shaft, I should be ok.
If anybody has a 4th gen passenger axle laying around, especially one that doesn't have boots on it, please let me know. I need a ballpark measurement of the outer shaft length between the two races. If I can find the correct length shaft, I should be ok.
#592
There is a lot of force on that piece but if it is done by a competent welder you shouldn't have any issues. The sleeve sounds like it would actually make it stronger if you weld it, grind it down and then weld the sleeve on both sides. You'll need to taper both of the cut ends before welding to allow proper penetration.
I'm actually really surprised raxels can't make you one.
I'm actually really surprised raxels can't make you one.
#593
There is a lot of force on that piece but if it is done by a competent welder you shouldn't have any issues. The sleeve sounds like it would actually make it stronger if you weld it, grind it down and then weld the sleeve on both sides. You'll need to taper both of the cut ends before welding to allow proper penetration.
I'm actually really surprised raxels can't make you one.
I'm actually really surprised raxels can't make you one.
The Drive Shaft Shop said he may be able to convert all the internals over to the splines meant for the 350z axles and that gives me a lot more options as far as shaft lengths. So that is a possibility. But they are so backed up with orders that it will take several months to get my axle made. So I am going to take measurements and tell him the shaft length I need and hopefully, he will have something that works and ship it out immediately and let me assemble everything.
As far as welding the shaft, it does seem like it will work. But Frank at the Drive Shaft Shop basically flat out said that it won't work, especially in a race application. The weld will hold, but the axle will snap right next to the weld. When you weld and heat up the rod, the outer portion gets very brittle due to the heat effect zones.
#594
I was talking to a local tranny shop when I dropped off my truck tranny for a vb job and he she the srt neon guys are using this shop that make custom axles with harden axle shafts and he will try to get the info and call me back
#596
^^ he needs to know the distance between the 'races'... so if you can peel back the rubber boots and get the distance between the 2 things that the shaft hooks into, that's the info he needs. a bit of string cut to length might be more manageable than a tape measure for that task.
#597
Snapped a couple pics of my new axle going on. Boots are installed but hopefully you can get a good estimate. If you need an exact measurement or any more pictures, let me know.
img]http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/6862/1000035a.jpg[/img]
img]http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/222/1000031.jpg[/img]
img]http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/9728/1000032l.jpg[/img]
img]http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/9000/1000033c.jpg[/img]
img]http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/6862/1000035a.jpg[/img]
img]http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/222/1000031.jpg[/img]
img]http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/9728/1000032l.jpg[/img]
img]http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/9000/1000033c.jpg[/img]
^^ he needs to know the distance between the 'races'... so if you can peel back the rubber boots and get the distance between the 2 things that the shaft hooks into, that's the info he needs. a bit of string cut to length might be more manageable than a tape measure for that task.
#598
I just got back from picking up my remanned axle. The overall length of this VQ 4th gen axle is exactly 38.5", the SAME as the VE axle! mmg23 said his axle was very old, so the boot will stretch and the shaft will come out of the race causing the axle to be much longer.
But, I think this axle will work without any modification required! I sure hope so. But according to my measurements, it will work. The ABS teeth are a 1/4" off, but mmg23max said he's running the VQ axle in the 3rd gen hub and his ABS still works. So I'm guessing the stock ABS sensor still picks up the signal even though the teeth are closer to the hub by 1/4".
But, I think this axle will work without any modification required! I sure hope so. But according to my measurements, it will work. The ABS teeth are a 1/4" off, but mmg23max said he's running the VQ axle in the 3rd gen hub and his ABS still works. So I'm guessing the stock ABS sensor still picks up the signal even though the teeth are closer to the hub by 1/4".