That graph looks like it was created in Excel. Is that right? Did you have to copy the raw data and make the chart in Excel or does DynoScan do that for you somehow?

Thanks.

 

Aaron you need to get that UTEC working, then you will get all the sampling you need.

 

Yes it was created in Excel.

Years ago, Auterra only had the Palm version available. To do any sort of post processing of the data, you had to transfer the data file in Palm format to a PC and then use a separate little conversion utility to convert it into a .csv file for import into a spreadsheet.

 

I have a couple UTECs in my possession right now. I am trying to get them working with the 5.5g ECU. They both work and have been tested in a G35 and 6th gen Maxima. But for some reason neither of them work at all on Map 0 or Map 1 in the 5.5g Maxima. I haven't hacked up my 5.5g harness and hardwired it in yet. But I am trying to get it to work with a custom PNP harness.

One of my UTECs causes a MAF high voltage code and won't rev past 2500rpm. The other UTEC idles off 5 cylinders. But then again, both UTECs work PERFECTLY in the 6th gen Maxima and G35. And the PNP harness works perfectly in a couple 5.5 gen Maximas and my car without the UTEC plugged up. So until I can figure this problem out, I don't have any way to tune.

Gotcha. Thanks.

 

Has the PnP harness been tested in a 5.5 with a UTEC?

The fact that it works fine without a UTEC only means that continuity is good on all the connections (the ones that matter anyways).

It does not tell you that the correct wiring has been done where it splits off to the UTEC.

On the PnP harness, ring out your injector, ignition coil and MAF signal wires from the 5.5G connector to where they land on the Z33 connector. Check the pin numbers in the FSM.

 

Yes, both of my UTECs have been tested in two 5.5 gens and my car with the same PNP harness. All had identical results. One UTEC caused MAF problems and the other had misfire issues. But none of these problems exist when the UTECs are installed in the cars they are meant to be in, g35/6th gen Maxima.

The harness that was tested only allows the needed wires to pass through the UTEC. On the UTEC with the MAF problems, I tested the MAF voltage going into and out of the UTEC. The MAF signal going into the UTEC was correct and in spec. But the signal leaving the UTEC was too high and out of spec, causing this MAF code. It's weird that each UTEC has it's own issues. In fact, a 3rd UTEC was tested and it worked great with this PNP harness. But I couldn't buy that UTEC.

Do you have any ideas how that 3rd UTEC could work, but not the two that I own?

 

All pins and wiring was checked about 3 times. and its dead on. Also like Aaron said that "3rd" utec worked, and it worked LIKE A CHARM, plugged it up, and was golden from there....

so im confident i'm passing all the correct wires through the utec it self. (due to work working flawlessly) and i have hardwired in 2 utec now and i used the same wires.


I personally tested the one that was running on 5cyl, in a G35 and it worked just fine. I also tested it out in a auto 5.5 and 6speed 5.5 (not that it makes any difference) in the 5.5's it was misfiring.


so its a matter of why are these utecs having different issues only while on a pnp harness...

 

Indeed, that is quite bizarre to have differing issues on two UTECs that both work fine on their native plaforms.

Was the chassis of the UTEC grounded when you were trying it the 5.5Gs?

Do you have access to a scope?

 

tried with chassis grounded and also the 12pin molex . neither made any changes.


i do not, Aaron?

 

I don't own a scope. Haven't used one of those since high school.

 

They are an invaluable tool for electrical diagnostics. DVMs are useless for interpreting periodic signals.

I picked up a a very basic 2-channel PC-based unit a few ago for a couple hundred bucks.
http://www.picotech.com/ultracompact-oscilloscopes.html

 

Thanks Dave.

To anybody who knows anything about the Suprastick:

I just wired in my Suprastick. I am testing it in manual mode right now. After changing the solenoid settings to the one meant for Nissan's, it now has the correct shift order.

But I can't get it to shift into 4th gear. Does anybody have any ideas why this would happen? I only drove the car up to around 40mph, but it shouldn't matter. I haven't given voltage to the overrun clutch yet. My TC lockup is controlled separately by a switch.

The Suprastick display on my laptop shows it shifting into 4th, but my transmission doesn't respond.

Thanks.

 

I posted about this a long time ago as the possible solution to getting 4th gear engagement with the shift_fast mod, that the overrunning clutch solenoid must be energized (or disabled, IIRC it's energized by default) in order to get to 4th gear. Check out AT-11 in the '95 FSM, that's the only difference for 4th.

Granted, that was for the 4th/5th gen trans, but I can't imagine the 3rd gen being that much different.

 

Ok thanks! The 3rd gen RE4F04V tranny is identical other than it being OBDI.

Also, when is the overrun clutch NOT energized? I am talking while driving normally with a stock TCM.

 

AT-11 is answering all my questions. haha I don't have that chart in the 92 FSM.

 

According to that shift table, the overrunning clutch is disabled only to go into 4th gear.

Back when I was going to school here I had my teacher give it a look over for the shift_fast guys, that's the first thing he pointed out.

Ah, I was thinking of the RE4F02A, with the ridiculous 'pan on the top' setup.

 

Yea, the first place I looked was the '94 I have (if you've got the '92 in PDF, I'd love to get a copy), and noticed it wasn't there.

 

Yeah. My pan is in the correct location, on the bottom!

I don't have a 92 in PDF format. But a REAL book that I snagged off ebay for $16. I've memorized the 92 FSM from cover to cover pretty much. The 94 isn't much different I've noticed other than the index at the end, which makes the 94 a better book in my book.

 

Do you know the biggest reason for the overrun clutch? All I know is that when it's off (0v), it allows the engine to slow down the car. But why isn't it on just ALL the time allowing for a smoother deceleration?

 

I contacted Garrett at SS about that and he told me the suprastick does not engage the overun clutch while decelerating, reason being is that it wears out the clutch(s) more like that. Jime has it on a separate switch. In my case, i just left it as is.

Its good and bad, good because the reason Garrett stated, bad because you have to rely 100% on your brakes, basically its like putting the car in N after u let off the gas.

 

Thanks.

I just connected my overrun clutch to a SPST switch and now I can shift into 4th gear.

What do you do with your overrun clutch switch, just leave it ON with 12v all the time? Cause I need 4th gear every time I drive my car. I live in a rural area, so when I get behind the wheel, I always go above 45mph no matter where I go. So I need my 4th gear.

 

Does the SS have any configurable outputs, for example when above a certain speed?

 

this thread will always be a classic

 

Well in my case, the only thing i wired up to the SS, are the two solenoids, the overrun clutch and torque converter are still being controlled by the TCM, (I do have a separate switch for the TC when ever i wanna control it myself), but the overun clutch i did not touch, i left as is. In other words, im not using the SS as a stand alone 100%.

 

I don't think it does.

Oh ok. So far, I'm driving around 100% of the time with 12v to the overrun clutch. It takes a little getting use to it when you downshift. You can't feel it and you have to give it a little gas to know which gear you are in sometimes. I quickly realized that having that little LCD screen is a must have! I have to get one soon.

 

Sorry. I missed this question.

I'm not sure why it stalls on the first start up. But it does it pretty much everytime. I don't really care right now. I am just happy the engine is running great. But it would be nice to know why the ECU takes a while to idle smoothly. Sometimes, it will fire up perfectly and idle right at 700rpm. Sometimes, when it fires up, it will rev up to 1500rpm for a half second and the revs drop so fast that the engine doesn't get a chance to idle. It just dies. So I have to rev it sometimes on the initial startup just to prevent it from dying.

 

Yea, you gotta get used to when manual shifting. I already masterd mine, i know what gear its in all the time, and when all else fails, i tap the switch down a few times to make sure its in 1st. Something I also like about how I have the SS setup is that, if i were to down shift too low of a gear at a high speed, it wont engage, it will just freely rev like if it was in N. I believe thats due to the nature of the SS not controlling the overun clutch.

as for ur start up. are u using an IACV?

 

well you could just get some LEDs on your dash to represent the 2 shift solenoids. iirc, AB [engaged] is 1st, B is 2nd, - [both disengaged] is 3rd, and A is o/d, right?

 

The idle is controlled by the 5.5 gen ECU. Remember, I did a full ECU swap.

If you were to give the overrun clutch 0v and downshifted to 1st gear at 60mph, you'd be in trouble. But, I've been driving around with 12v to it all the time. I can easily get use to that.

And I do the same thing. I will tap the manual button a few times to make sure I'm all the way in first. I ended up using an illumination dimmer switch from my 3rd gen parts car. So now I have TWO of these switches! lol One controls my dash lights brightness. And the other is zip tied to my ebrake handle right now and controls my manual shifts. It is pretty fun pressing a button to make your shifts. The quality of the shifts did not change AT ALL with the SS though. I never had to bother with the shift_fast mod since my 3rd gen transmission always shifted and reacted just as fast to manually shifting my shifter. It reacts the same after I press my manual shift SS button. But I hear the 4th gen TCM doesn't shift immediately and likes to shift when it feels like it. Also, having my drop resistor unplugged (not controlled by my TCM), there was no difference in how firm my shifts were. So I assume I was already running 100% line pressure with my VB mod from Maximum Tuning.

I think I will play with the automatic shift tables tomorrow and have a little bit more fun. I also have to do some logging to see why my car gets sluggish sometimes. It seems I have to reset the ECU to get full power all the time. But after driving it for 30 miles or so, I bet my timing is getting retarded or the throttle plate isn't opening all the way. Cause sometimes, it will spin all the way through first gear and deep into 2nd gear after the shift, up to 55mph. And sometimes, it won't spin that much in the top of the 1st gear and it will just spin a little bit going into 2nd. I am hoping to figure this engine out soon so I can get some track time in before MAXUS 09.

 

OR I can just get an LCD display for almost the same price as all those LEDs and allow the SS to display my Gear, Speed, Throttle Position, etc. It's a pretty cool mod.

 

i just meant 2 LEDs from radio shack, one for each solenoid, and maybe 10' of wire. is the LCD screen something made by (or specifically for) suprastick? how much is it?

 

Yeah. You can get any 16x2 LCD serial display and it plugs directly into the SS. So you can say it's meant for it. I think it's only about $30. But WELL worth the money.

Here's Jime's 16x2 display for the SS:

 

More pics.

This is how my interior looks right now. I only put a passenger seat in it cause my friends kept bugging me to take them for a ride.

Plus, you know I wanted to.





My illumination switch from a 3rd gen Maxima. Momentary ON for the up and down shifts. It works pretty good. You just have to press the button a little more than I like. You have to make sure you fully press it. You can't just flick the button. You actually have to push it down for more than a tenth of a second. But I don't think the switch is to blame.

And I only have 3 wires that I can pass through b/c of the slip ring assembly I installed to use the 5.5g steering wheel. One is for the horn. The other two are for the cruise control assembly. I do plan on getting a 6spd 5.5g ECU sometime soon since I believe that's the reason why I can't get my cruise working. The automatic 5.5g ECU needs a TCM CAN signal and I can't think of any way to trick the ECU.

 

ohh ok. i wasn't thinking dotmatrix, i was thinking numeric-only like a calculator. were you gonna get a backlit one to wire into the illumination so you can read it at night?

heh, i believe i might have been one of those people bugging you. too bad you didn't have it in last week haha. so does the suprastick just require at least 0.1sec duration on the signal to make sure it wasn't an accidental shift request? ie, no matter what kind of switch you use it would be the same?

 

I would love to get one backlit.

I would guess that all the Suprastick needs is enough voltage to make it to the unit to trigger the shift. It needs to see around 12v before it can activate the shift. So, if I flick my switch really really fast, I don't think it sends a good enough 12v signal for the SS to make the shift. So for me, you need to press the button longer than a tenth of a second, which is still really quick.

And the program has a shift lockout timer to prevent accidental double shifts. So if you press the button two times within the specified time you entered, then it will only shift once. So the device will only shift one time within the 300 milliseconds or whatever you want to enter.

 

did you plan to experiment with any other kind of switch/button? that switch (in its normal function) isn't exactly the fastest-reacting switch in the car, so i dunno, it's possible that it is the switch's fault that there is a bit of delay. also how much manual shifting are you really gonna be doing anyhow? at the track, or are you gonna let it shift automatically at the track?

 

The delay is barely noticeable. I am talking 1 tenth of a second, not a full second. All you have to do is make sure you push the switch all the way down. If you flick it, you probably aren't actually pushing it far enough. It's not an inconvenience or anything.

I do plan to let the SS automatically shift for me down the 1/4 mile. I played with the shift table yesterday a little bit. It was shifting way too soon for my taste at 1/2 throttle. I will have to play with it a LOT more to get the table the way I like for all types of driving.

 

paddle shifters?

 

Yeah, it is fun to manually shift the car. It would be better if my switch was located on the steering wheel. But, I don't have enough spots on the slip ring I used in order to mount the 5.5g wheel. One is for the horn, and the other 2 are used for the cruise module, which I want to get working some day. There is a way to use only ONE wire to control shifts with the SS. It's pretty cool. It shifts when it sees more than a 2v difference in voltage. So, I may be able to use the stock 5.5g cruise buttons to make it shift. If I can figure out a way to use the stock cruise module to operate the cruise AND shifts, that would be sweet. If not, then I'd have to sacrifice my horn on the steering wheel and will have to locate a horn button somewhere on the dash.

 

I hooked up the Auterra software and did some pulls yesterday. I see the throttle plate is only about 50% open from when I launch it at 3K rpm to around 3500rpm. Then it hits 100%, then dips back down to 80% or so at 5K, then back up to 100% before I have to shift at redline. I noticed the dip on top end on most of my graphs. AND I felt the power difference, which may have been due to KS issues. Not sure. My ASCD wires (#59 on ECM) has 0v going to it. So it's unplugged. Is that right Jime?

Also, I monitored ignition timing. At idle, it's 15 degrees. When I do a 1st gear launch from a stop, I noticed the timing is very inconsistant. Sometimes, it will stay right at 15 degree through the 1st gear pull. Sometimes, it will retard as the rpms go up. I noticed several spots on each of my pulls where the timing was around 9-12 degrees. According to this chart eng92 posted, the timing didn't dip below 16 degrees while at WOT.

What gear was this 3.5L test done in?