3rd gen VQ35DE Full ECU Swap Progress Thread
01-27-2010, 11:56 AM
#1042
Yeah it is. And I can shave another 300 lbs with some more ideas I have. Once I feel I'm done with my weight reduction, I will put the entire interior back in so it looks like a 100% stock Maxima. According to my math, I will only be adding 100 lbs by having all seats, carpet, headliner, dash, etc. That will only slow me down by about 1.5 tenths in the 1/4 mile (.15).
Imagine a stock appearing Maxima capable of running 12.0s all motor. Most people see my gutted interior and think that's the only reason why I'm doing the 1/4 mile times I am. But in essence, I am only 1 or 2 tenths faster. That's it. Weight reduction goes a LONG ways in how fast your car is. But there are several areas where you can save weight without turning your car into a full race spec Maxima with gutted interior. A couple days ago, I spent 1 hour removing 3lbs from my Maxima. I found various tiny useless brackets that hold relays in place that I got rid of along with some other stuff. My goal is to have a wickedly fast Maxima with full stock appearing interior. Nobody will be none the wiser.
Or I can turn my Maxima into a trailered FWD race car that will weigh 2250lbs and can do high 10s all motor without wheelie bars. But I like being able to drive my Maxima on the street.
Imagine a stock appearing Maxima capable of running 12.0s all motor. Most people see my gutted interior and think that's the only reason why I'm doing the 1/4 mile times I am. But in essence, I am only 1 or 2 tenths faster. That's it. Weight reduction goes a LONG ways in how fast your car is. But there are several areas where you can save weight without turning your car into a full race spec Maxima with gutted interior. A couple days ago, I spent 1 hour removing 3lbs from my Maxima. I found various tiny useless brackets that hold relays in place that I got rid of along with some other stuff. My goal is to have a wickedly fast Maxima with full stock appearing interior. Nobody will be none the wiser.
Or I can turn my Maxima into a trailered FWD race car that will weigh 2250lbs and can do high 10s all motor without wheelie bars. But I like being able to drive my Maxima on the street.
01-27-2010, 06:50 PM
#1044
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 177
Yeah it is. And I can shave another 300 lbs with some more ideas I have. Once I feel I'm done with my weight reduction, I will put the entire interior back in so it looks like a 100% stock Maxima. According to my math, I will only be adding 100 lbs by having all seats, carpet, headliner, dash, etc. That will only slow me down by about 1.5 tenths in the 1/4 mile (.15).
Imagine a stock appearing Maxima capable of running 12.0s all motor. Most people see my gutted interior and think that's the only reason why I'm doing the 1/4 mile times I am. But in essence, I am only 1 or 2 tenths faster. That's it. Weight reduction goes a LONG ways in how fast your car is. But there are several areas where you can save weight without turning your car into a full race spec Maxima with gutted interior. A couple days ago, I spent 1 hour removing 3lbs from my Maxima. I found various tiny useless brackets that hold relays in place that I got rid of along with some other stuff. My goal is to have a wickedly fast Maxima with full stock appearing interior. Nobody will be none the wiser.
Or I can turn my Maxima into a trailered FWD race car that will weigh 2250lbs and can do high 10s all motor without wheelie bars. But I like being able to drive my Maxima on the street.
Imagine a stock appearing Maxima capable of running 12.0s all motor. Most people see my gutted interior and think that's the only reason why I'm doing the 1/4 mile times I am. But in essence, I am only 1 or 2 tenths faster. That's it. Weight reduction goes a LONG ways in how fast your car is. But there are several areas where you can save weight without turning your car into a full race spec Maxima with gutted interior. A couple days ago, I spent 1 hour removing 3lbs from my Maxima. I found various tiny useless brackets that hold relays in place that I got rid of along with some other stuff. My goal is to have a wickedly fast Maxima with full stock appearing interior. Nobody will be none the wiser.
Or I can turn my Maxima into a trailered FWD race car that will weigh 2250lbs and can do high 10s all motor without wheelie bars. But I like being able to drive my Maxima on the street.
01-30-2010, 02:22 PM
#1046
I finally found 14" wheels that fit!!! I should finally be able to use the 20x8x14 MT slicks, which will give me the absolute perfect gearing in the 1/4 mile while I'm racing all motor. According to my math, I will need to lock up the torque converter in 3rd gear just to keep the revs under 7200rpm going through the traps.
I went to the pull-a-part today and found these wheels on an 88 Ford Ranger. They are 14x6 and weigh right at 16.0 lbs. They have a back spacing of exactly 4.05", which comes to an offset of 14mm. I had to open up the bore size a little bit with my die grinder since they wouldn't quite fit on my stock hub. Without a spacer, the offset is too low and it hits the side of the caliper and the wheel won't spin after you snug up the lug nuts.
I will need a 4-5mm spacer and the wheels will fit perfectly. I used an 8mm spacer for today's test fitment.
The outer edge of the caliper BARELY clears as you see in the pic. I have less than 1mm of clearance with this 8mm spacer. I will try a 4 or 5mm spacer and see how it looks. I really thought I was going to have to do a LOT of grinding on my brake calipers to get these wheels to fit.
11s are soon to come ALL MOTOR!
I went to the pull-a-part today and found these wheels on an 88 Ford Ranger. They are 14x6 and weigh right at 16.0 lbs. They have a back spacing of exactly 4.05", which comes to an offset of 14mm. I had to open up the bore size a little bit with my die grinder since they wouldn't quite fit on my stock hub. Without a spacer, the offset is too low and it hits the side of the caliper and the wheel won't spin after you snug up the lug nuts.
I will need a 4-5mm spacer and the wheels will fit perfectly. I used an 8mm spacer for today's test fitment.
The outer edge of the caliper BARELY clears as you see in the pic. I have less than 1mm of clearance with this 8mm spacer. I will try a 4 or 5mm spacer and see how it looks. I really thought I was going to have to do a LOT of grinding on my brake calipers to get these wheels to fit.
11s are soon to come ALL MOTOR!
also the calipers MIGHT rub when you step on the brake pedal. On my 3g when I upgraded to the z31 rotors in the rear. the stock wheels fit with a few mm to spare when the brakes were not applied, but the calipers began to rub under braking as they shift a little bit under pressure, since they are a floating-type caliper. mainly the very tip of the caliper is what will be of potential concern, depending on how much clearance you lose inside the wheel as you approach the wheel face (kida hard to see how the inside of the wheel is shaped from the angle of your pic)
this is what they looked liked pre-filing when they rubbed under braking
and this is what i had to file
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 01-30-2010 at 02:27 PM.
01-30-2010, 04:28 PM
#1047
how do you think the contact patch will be with those narrower 14x6's compared to the 15x8 you have now? I remember you liked the contact patch alot better when you went from the millenia wheels to the slipstreams.
also the calipers MIGHT rub when you step on the brake pedal. On my 3g when I upgraded to the z31 rotors in the rear. the stock wheels fit with a few mm to spare when the brakes were not applied, but the calipers began to rub under braking as they shift a little bit under pressure, since they are a floating-type caliper. mainly the very tip of the caliper is what will be of potential concern, depending on how much clearance you lose inside the wheel as you approach the wheel face (kida hard to see how the inside of the wheel is shaped from the angle of your pic)
this is what they looked liked pre-filing when they rubbed under braking
[IMG]http://imgur.com/3zDyB.jpg[/IMG
and this is what i had to file
[IMG]http://imgur.com/UTL5N.jpg[/IMG
also the calipers MIGHT rub when you step on the brake pedal. On my 3g when I upgraded to the z31 rotors in the rear. the stock wheels fit with a few mm to spare when the brakes were not applied, but the calipers began to rub under braking as they shift a little bit under pressure, since they are a floating-type caliper. mainly the very tip of the caliper is what will be of potential concern, depending on how much clearance you lose inside the wheel as you approach the wheel face (kida hard to see how the inside of the wheel is shaped from the angle of your pic)
this is what they looked liked pre-filing when they rubbed under braking
[IMG]http://imgur.com/3zDyB.jpg[/IMG
and this is what i had to file
[IMG]http://imgur.com/UTL5N.jpg[/IMG
The 15x8 Rotas with the 22" MT slicks didn't make a noticeable improvement when compared to my 15x6 Millenia wheels with the same slicks. But I know it helps. It's just not that noticeable with the 60 foots I'm doing right now (high 1.8s). I am hoping the 20" MT slicks with 14x6 wheels will give me a slightly better 60 foot (<1.85). The slicks will be here Monday depending how bad the snow delays things. Can't wait. They only have 1 pass on them. They should be in flawless condition.
02-01-2010, 06:12 PM
#1049
Last edited by t6378tp; 02-01-2010 at 06:15 PM.
02-02-2010, 09:59 AM
#1050
It would take a WELL driven 2200lb NA VQ35 6spd making a little over 300whp to possibly crack 10s. But, I really don't want to start cutting on my Maxima. I like having a sturdy hood and trunk lid with all my door beams. I'd love to race in the street class and put my carpet and dash all back in as well.
I was thinking the other day. A race prep B15 Sentra with VQ35 6spd would be able to hang with these 10 second all motor Civics down the 1/4 mile. They weigh roughly 2500lbs stock. Better yet, a B13 Sentra weighs 2200lbs stock. I wonder if you can cram a 3.5L in that thing.
Most sanctions have 2200-2300 lb weight limits on V6 Imports. So you may need a little more than 300whp to run 10s in the hot summer temps these Civics do.
02-02-2010, 12:34 PM
#1052
Yeah, that would be all around a better car. But I was basically referring to FWD Import drag racing. A 2000lb S13 with over 300whp would definitely move though! And NSCRA doesn't discriminate against RWD. Not in the Street All Motor class.
02-02-2010, 12:50 PM
#1054
Just mounted the 20x8x14 MT slicks on the Ranger wheels. Man, they look tiny! I thought my 22" MT slicks were small! 
Edit: Both the 22" and 20" slicks weigh 26.5lbs total with wheel. The 14" Ranger wheels are 16.0lbs and the 20" slicks are 10.5lbs. The 15" Rota Slipstreams are 14.5lbs and the 22" slicks are 12lbs.
Edit: Both the 22" and 20" slicks weigh 26.5lbs total with wheel. The 14" Ranger wheels are 16.0lbs and the 20" slicks are 10.5lbs. The 15" Rota Slipstreams are 14.5lbs and the 22" slicks are 12lbs.
Last edited by Aaron92SE; 02-02-2010 at 12:59 PM.
02-03-2010, 02:57 PM
#1055
Tested compression today while I was changing out my spark plugs.
Here are the numbers I got when I first got the engine and did the compression test before ripping into the motor:
#2: 172
#4: 173
#6: 171
#1: 155 (170 after adding 1/2 cap oil)
#3: 155 (170 after adding 1/2 cap oil)
#5: 190 (had lots of oil in it due to leaky valve cover)
Here are my results today after 14K successful miles on the engine:
#2: 178
#4: 178
#6: 181
#1: 165
#3: 168
#5: 168
So the difference between the LH and RH heads are roughly the same as my first compression test. The RH bank has a slightly lower compression. It's the rings since I replaced the headgaskets, valve seals, and lapped all intake and exhaust valves.
I'm ok with the results. The FSM says no more than a 14psi variance. I am getting a 16psi variance. I'll continue running this engine the way it is.
I will be doing some tuning on a Dynojet this weekend to see if I can squeeze out a few extra HP. So we'll see if I am able to do the 260+whp that I estimate I should be running.
Here are the numbers I got when I first got the engine and did the compression test before ripping into the motor:
#2: 172
#4: 173
#6: 171
#1: 155 (170 after adding 1/2 cap oil)
#3: 155 (170 after adding 1/2 cap oil)
#5: 190 (had lots of oil in it due to leaky valve cover)
Here are my results today after 14K successful miles on the engine:
#2: 178
#4: 178
#6: 181
#1: 165
#3: 168
#5: 168
So the difference between the LH and RH heads are roughly the same as my first compression test. The RH bank has a slightly lower compression. It's the rings since I replaced the headgaskets, valve seals, and lapped all intake and exhaust valves.
I'm ok with the results. The FSM says no more than a 14psi variance. I am getting a 16psi variance. I'll continue running this engine the way it is.
I will be doing some tuning on a Dynojet this weekend to see if I can squeeze out a few extra HP. So we'll see if I am able to do the 260+whp that I estimate I should be running.
02-03-2010, 07:32 PM
#1057
That sounds good. I sure hope it makes at least 260whp even with my automatic. I think it's a conservative estimate. 265+ is very likely. If I was 6spd, I'd probably be all over the 300whp mark.
I've been meaning to do a Dynojet 3rd gear pull since I finished the engine. Once I get some pulls under my belt, I'll be able to calculate my 1/4 mile estimates a bit better as well as optimal shift points.
I'll have to train the guy how to drive my car on the dyno since they don't let customers do it. It'll be funny when I tell him to push this button in order to put it in 3rd gear and flip this switch to lock up the torque converter. Then push this pedal to make the engine scream. I'll have the cutout open on all my runs of course. It should make for some decent videos.
I've been meaning to do a Dynojet 3rd gear pull since I finished the engine. Once I get some pulls under my belt, I'll be able to calculate my 1/4 mile estimates a bit better as well as optimal shift points.
I'll have to train the guy how to drive my car on the dyno since they don't let customers do it. It'll be funny when I tell him to push this button in order to put it in 3rd gear and flip this switch to lock up the torque converter. Then push this pedal to make the engine scream.
I'll have the cutout open on all my runs of course. It should make for some decent videos.
02-03-2010, 08:37 PM
#1058
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
It's a little ghey they won't let you do the run especially since you can lock it in 3rd so you won't accidentally downshift (It does take a little practice), but you MUST tell him to tap the limiter. 9/10 times they won't, so make it clear to him to hit the limiter hard.
02-04-2010, 07:34 AM
#1059
It's a little ghey they won't let you do the run especially since you can lock it in 3rd so you won't accidentally downshift (It does take a little practice), but you MUST tell him to tap the limiter. 9/10 times they won't, so make it clear to him to hit the limiter hard.
They seemed really surprised hearing about an old Maxima with this engine swap. And even more surprised when I told them what it runs in the 1/4 mile.
I DEFINITELY will make sure they hit the limiter. In all the dyno videos they've released on youtube, only 1 out of 20 actually hit the limiter.
On my first run, I will know when power drops off on top end. I have the limiter set to 7200 right now. If I'm still making power at 7200, I will raise the limiter and do another pull. I have no idea how much this engine is breathing up top with the headwork, cams, intake port work, and your SSIM. That's why just in case, I installed a revup oil pump, HR valve springs, and ARP rod bolts.
02-04-2010, 10:18 AM
#1060
I'm sure you already figured out your gearing for the shorter tires. On the road course, the diff b/w 225/50/16s and 225/40/17s is huge. Yours looks more dramatic than mine. I dunno how fast your car can rip off shifts or where you are at the end of the course but for road racing staying in gear is sometimes better than a higher ratio. Just depends..
I had the same idle problem on the SR20DETs - for that motor, turned out to be the IACV AND water temp sensor.
Just an idea, if your front crash beam is hollow, fill it with concrete.
I had the same idle problem on the SR20DETs - for that motor, turned out to be the IACV AND water temp sensor.
Just an idea, if your front crash beam is hollow, fill it with concrete.
02-04-2010, 10:24 AM
#1061
Almost forgot.. you can pull 2-4mm of material off that caliper. I'd do that before sacrificing stud threads. And check to make sure your stick on weights (if you have them) clearance the caliper. Our 16s barely clear the wilwoods and 2yrs ago I mounted the tires in the paddock and had to pull off the grid due to a consistently repetitive grinding noise when I was creeping the car down to grid. LOL
02-04-2010, 11:07 AM
#1062
I'm sure you already figured out your gearing for the shorter tires. On the road course, the diff b/w 225/50/16s and 225/40/17s is huge. Yours looks more dramatic than mine. I dunno how fast your car can rip off shifts or where you are at the end of the course but for road racing staying in gear is sometimes better than a higher ratio. Just depends..
I had the same idle problem on the SR20DETs - for that motor, turned out to be the IACV AND water temp sensor.
Just an idea, if your front crash beam is hollow, fill it with concrete.
I had the same idle problem on the SR20DETs - for that motor, turned out to be the IACV AND water temp sensor.
Just an idea, if your front crash beam is hollow, fill it with concrete.
The VQ35DE's idle is controlled by the ECM. All the sensors on this engine are 62K miles old. I hope they aren't dying already. But I will check out the coolant temp sensor.
I remove my bumper supports just for race day in order to reduce weight. Traction isn't a problem for me all motor. So, I don't need to weigh down the front end.
Almost forgot.. you can pull 2-4mm of material off that caliper. I'd do that before sacrificing stud threads. And check to make sure your stick on weights (if you have them) clearance the caliper. Our 16s barely clear the wilwoods and 2yrs ago I mounted the tires in the paddock and had to pull off the grid due to a consistently repetitive grinding noise when I was creeping the car down to grid. LOL
2-4mm off the caliper is a lot. My stock calipers are bulky, so I'm sure I can remove that much if I needed to.
I am going to mount the slicks on the car today for the first time and test the brakes out to see what of clearance issues I may run into. The inside of the wheels have a thin layer of caked on dirt from the salvage yard. So it will be easy to see where it scrapes, if it does.
02-04-2010, 03:06 PM
#1064
I got a chance to put the slicks on the Maxima this afternoon. There were no caliper clearance issues what so ever, even off and on the brakes. But there were clearance issues due to the car being so low to the ground! The Ypipe and crossmember are now even closer to the ground. The 22" slicks were bad, but the 20" slicks definitely will require some kind of coil spring spacers on the front. I bet if I get on the brakes hard enough, the crossmember would smack the ground. I can't have this happening at 100+ mph.
But I did make some quick 0-60 passes today on the street. 1st and 2nd gear wind through so quickly. It put a pretty big smile on my face.
But I did make some quick 0-60 passes today on the street. 1st and 2nd gear wind through so quickly. It put a pretty big smile on my face.
02-04-2010, 04:13 PM
#1065
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
For some reason, you have to give it a little gas at first to keep it idling. If you don't, it will fire up to 2K rpm and the revs drop so fast that it just stalls. But if you give it a little gas and hold it at 1K rpm, it will idle on it's own perfectly at 750rpm after a couple seconds. I can't figure out this problem. If you have any ideas, let me know.
If that checks good, I would (Only if you have a back-up throttle body & are willing to not get mad at me) consider doing the following. Since I know you've done the closed position learn we'll skip that. The 3.5 dbw tb has a screw that keeps it in the almost close position, but there is another spring & mechanism that will allow it to fully shut to 0%. Maybe adjust that stop screw so it is a little more closed, then do your relearns and see if that changes it.
I'm just pulling this suggestion out of my ***, and I would also recommend plugging the maf etc & pressurizing the intake first to be sure there is no leaks. But maybe the butterfly's normal resting position is to far open and the throttle motor has a hard time fighting the resistance of that spring to shut it farther than the resting position. This would make a little better sense if you have ever ripped one of the dbw tb's apart to convert it to cable. The opposite could be true also I suppose, the screw might have to go the other way. There is 2 screws IIRC though, you would want to make sure which one is for the rest position.
Last edited by KRRZ350; 02-04-2010 at 04:16 PM.
02-04-2010, 04:19 PM
#1066
I know the service manual says not to clean it, but is the TB clean? Because I've seen 5.5 gens cause a similiar problem from a dirty TB, allthough I don't remember either of them revving to 2k though, it would just start normal @ 750 and then stall or dip down really low and almost stall.
If that checks good, I would (Only if you have a back-up throttle body & are willing to not get mad at me) consider doing the following. Since I know you've done the closed position learn we'll skip that. The 3.5 dbw tb has a screw that keeps it in the almost close position, but there is another spring & mechanism that will allow it to fully shut to 0%. Maybe adjust that stop screw so it is a little more closed, then do your relearns and see if that changes it.
I'm just pulling this suggestion out of my ***, and I would also recommend plugging the maf etc & pressurizing the intake first to be sure there is no leaks. But maybe the butterfly's normal resting position is to far open and the throttle motor has a hard time fighting the resistance of that spring to shut it farther than the resting position. This would make a little better sense if you have ever ripped one of the dbw tb's apart to convert it to cable. The opposite could be true also I suppose, the screw might have to go the other way. There is 2 screws IIRC though, you would want to make sure which one is for the rest position.
If that checks good, I would (Only if you have a back-up throttle body & are willing to not get mad at me) consider doing the following. Since I know you've done the closed position learn we'll skip that. The 3.5 dbw tb has a screw that keeps it in the almost close position, but there is another spring & mechanism that will allow it to fully shut to 0%. Maybe adjust that stop screw so it is a little more closed, then do your relearns and see if that changes it.
I'm just pulling this suggestion out of my ***, and I would also recommend plugging the maf etc & pressurizing the intake first to be sure there is no leaks. But maybe the butterfly's normal resting position is to far open and the throttle motor has a hard time fighting the resistance of that spring to shut it farther than the resting position. This would make a little better sense if you have ever ripped one of the dbw tb's apart to convert it to cable. The opposite could be true also I suppose, the screw might have to go the other way. There is 2 screws IIRC though, you would want to make sure which one is for the rest position.
I have never messed with that screw, but I'll give that a shot. I don't think I have any intake leaks. But there could be a very tiny one somewhere. My idle is perfect at 750rpm and it never fluctuates. But, I still do need to check for leaks. Wouldn't hurt. I need to rig up something that will plug my intake while pressurizing the manifold.
02-05-2010, 07:54 AM
#1068
Haha! Yeah, I think it really sets the car off. It's a nice consistent 6" gap around the entire wheel well.
Everytime I look at these slicks, I can't believe how tiny they are. On the street, after a quick half second burnout to clean them, I was able to come close to gripping all the way through 1st gear. I'm sure these slicks will hold at the track.
Everytime I look at these slicks, I can't believe how tiny they are. On the street, after a quick half second burnout to clean them, I was able to come close to gripping all the way through 1st gear. I'm sure these slicks will hold at the track.
02-05-2010, 08:07 AM
#1069
A cheap fix would be some ebay coils with sleeves. You can find these for $50. Its a hassle to swap springs, esp stockers. But it will solve your ride height and brake squat issue, aside from clearancing the xmember/piping. I dunno what spacers will do in the stock springs at the strip, maybe accomplish the same thing as the sleeves.
Just throwing out ideas.. I know nothing about going straight (or turning only left) Haha
Just throwing out ideas.. I know nothing about going straight (or turning only left) Haha
02-05-2010, 08:40 AM
#1070
A cheap fix would be some ebay coils with sleeves. You can find these for $50. Its a hassle to swap springs, esp stockers. But it will solve your ride height and brake squat issue, aside from clearancing the xmember/piping. I dunno what spacers will do in the stock springs at the strip, maybe accomplish the same thing as the sleeves.
Just throwing out ideas.. I know nothing about going straight (or turning only left) Haha
Just throwing out ideas.. I know nothing about going straight (or turning only left) Haha
It's easy to install rubber spring spacers. Only takes 5 seconds to stick them in there when the car is jacked up.
02-07-2010, 02:08 PM
#1071
I did a little dyno tuning on Friday to find out my 02 Maxima AT ECU has a speed limiter on it! So I am unable to find out what kind of HP this engine is making on the top end. At least I know the power is still climbing strong and the torque isn't falling on it's face at 6300rpm.
I have a 6spd 03 Maxima ECU that I am going to swap in that should have a higher speed limiter on it. I originally got it in order to get my cruise control working.
I have a 6spd 03 Maxima ECU that I am going to swap in that should have a higher speed limiter on it. I originally got it in order to get my cruise control working.
02-08-2010, 11:12 AM
#1072
Aaron, get ahold of cypher (sp) software from UpRev. No tune/license required, and you can remove the limiter and bump timing +-2. Along with a host of other features.
*EDIT* Thats wrong.. +04. I thought we got cipher to work.
*EDIT* Thats wrong.. +04. I thought we got cipher to work.
Last edited by smokinjoe; 02-08-2010 at 12:10 PM.
02-08-2010, 11:20 AM
#1073
Also, I just realized something the other day. During my last track visit, at the end of the 1/4 mile with the 22" slicks, my car felt a little weird (under powered) as I'm passing through the traps. I crunched some numbers and realize I'm barely hitting my speed limiter! It didn't affect my times though. But it definitely will screw me up when I put on my 20" MT slicks!
02-08-2010, 11:24 AM
#1074
I was faced with the same situation. I gutted the strut tube, added a Koni insert and welded square seats for the GC collars on the tube. Worked great! And you can find knock off GCs for $50 all day on Ebay. Just add ERS springs..
02-08-2010, 12:24 PM
#1075
I was faced with the same situation. I gutted the strut tube, added a Koni insert and welded square seats for the GC collars on the tube. Worked great! And you can find knock off GCs for $50 all day on Ebay. Just add ERS springs..
IMG]http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f105/jippolito001/Spec%20V/DSC01359.jpg[/IMG]
IMG]http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f105/jippolito001/Spec%20V/DSC01360.jpg[/IMG]
IMG]http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f105/jippolito001/Spec%20V/DSC01363.jpg[/IMG]
IMG]http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f105/jippolito001/Spec%20V/DSC01359.jpg[/IMG]
IMG]http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f105/jippolito001/Spec%20V/DSC01360.jpg[/IMG]
IMG]http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f105/jippolito001/Spec%20V/DSC01363.jpg[/IMG]
The best 60 foot times I see from non-wheelie bar vehicles have some sort of adjustable coilovers.
02-08-2010, 12:54 PM
#1076
For quite a while, I've been thinking about doing what smokinjoe suggested. From what I've read, I found that it's best to use a really soft spring rate in front and a really stiff spring rate in the back. Then, have your konis valved for fwd drag racing according to the spring rates that you have chosen. It's also recommended to keep your car level and as low as possible. Don't jack up the rear because it raises the CoG. A lot of Honda guys use this setup and achieve awesome 60' times with out using limiting straps or rubber blocks.
02-08-2010, 06:05 PM
#1077
I didn't think any UpRev products work on the Maxima. According to their website, they don't make any mention of being able to remove the speed limiter with Cipher. But that's the extent of my research.
Also, I just realized something the other day. During my last track visit, at the end of the 1/4 mile with the 22" slicks, my car felt a little weird (under powered) as I'm passing through the traps. I crunched some numbers and realize I'm barely hitting my speed limiter! It didn't affect my times though. But it definitely will screw me up when I put on my 20" MT slicks!
Also, I just realized something the other day. During my last track visit, at the end of the 1/4 mile with the 22" slicks, my car felt a little weird (under powered) as I'm passing through the traps. I crunched some numbers and realize I'm barely hitting my speed limiter! It didn't affect my times though. But it definitely will screw me up when I put on my 20" MT slicks!
02-08-2010, 06:14 PM
#1079
Aaron, koni makes strut inserts that are top adjustable. The shocks you are referring to are typically for the rear. I'm taking a guess at this, but I imagine, the only concern you have in drag racing is rebound. Slowing the progression of how fast a shock extends. Keeping the tires down. Rebound also slows the weight transfer when a car enters a turn.
ERS springs are the best way to fine tune your set up
ERS springs are the best way to fine tune your set up
02-08-2010, 07:11 PM
#1080
