3rd gen VQ35DE Full ECU Swap Progress Thread
I finally got this dang crank pulley off!!
Since the engine is on the stand, I was scared of tipping the entire thing over with the cheater bar. I first locked the engine with the "suitable tool" (cough, screwdriver) in the driveplate teeth. It was tough holding the screwdriver while lifting on the huge cheater bar. And my impact wrench wasn't nearly strong enough. So I borrowed a friend's 675 ft-lbs max impact wrench and it didn't even phase it! And I've been soaking this thing in PB Blaster for the past 36 hours.
And I was about to take out the torch to heat it up, but just a little while ago, KRRZ350 gave me an idea to lock the engine in place. On the 3.5, there is a stud that sticks out of the timing cover used for the lowest nut on the front engine mount. Simply wrap a belt around the crank pulley and fold it under itself. The stud will keep the engine from turning. This pic is for illustrative purposes only. It's best to wrap the belt around the inside rib since it's closer to the stud. Then put a 3 foot cheater bar on that crank pulley bolt and that's it!
Thanks Kevin for the idea!
Since the engine is on the stand, I was scared of tipping the entire thing over with the cheater bar. I first locked the engine with the "suitable tool" (cough, screwdriver) in the driveplate teeth. It was tough holding the screwdriver while lifting on the huge cheater bar. And my impact wrench wasn't nearly strong enough. So I borrowed a friend's 675 ft-lbs max impact wrench and it didn't even phase it! And I've been soaking this thing in PB Blaster for the past 36 hours.
And I was about to take out the torch to heat it up, but just a little while ago, KRRZ350 gave me an idea to lock the engine in place. On the 3.5, there is a stud that sticks out of the timing cover used for the lowest nut on the front engine mount. Simply wrap a belt around the crank pulley and fold it under itself. The stud will keep the engine from turning. This pic is for illustrative purposes only. It's best to wrap the belt around the inside rib since it's closer to the stud. Then put a 3 foot cheater bar on that crank pulley bolt and that's it!
Thanks Kevin for the idea!
yeah i don't think thats possible anymore since this was over a year ago. but i'll give it a shot and see what i can come up with.
Look what I got at the yard today! ECU, eGas, Cluster, NATS, and Dash Harness all from the same vehicle! I am going back tomorrow to get the ignition and key since I ran out of time today and couldn't get the ignition module off fast enough. I may just have to pull the entire column and take it home with me. That's what I bought, so I might as well.
But that dash harness was tough to get out! The interior was fully in tact since it's so new on the lot. It took me 3 hours to get all of these parts pulled today.
But that dash harness was tough to get out! The interior was fully in tact since it's so new on the lot. It took me 3 hours to get all of these parts pulled today.
As some of you may know, I am going to swap a 3.5 in a 1992 Maxima SE automatic. My VE30DE recently took a puke, so now it's time to upgrade.
Just today, I picked up my 49K mile 2K2 Maxima engine for $530. The engine and carfax reports seem to be very clean. There have only been 2 owners, with the salvage yard being the 3rd. The vehicle was in a front end collision in early July 08 and the engine has been sitting in the warehouse since. So it ran not too long ago, which is nice to know.
I plan on tearing down this engine to inspect everything. I hope to perform a leak down test within the next week or so to determine the condition of the piston rings and valve seals. Then I plan to install cams, ARP rod bolts, Z33 triple layer head gaskets (probably HR), inspect cylinder walls, and replace all other seals and gaskets. Also, I will probably do some minor head porting while I have them removed.
Here are the very first pics of the project:
Also, the torque converter housing is able to swap completely over from a VQ auto tranny to the VE RE4F04V tranny. So now my stock transmission will bolt directly to the VQ35. I used a housing from a 4th gen RE4F04A.
VE housing:
Swapping housings:
I'm sure I will have questions as I get further along in this project. But I finally made my engine purchase and figured I'd get this thread started.
Thanks for everyone's help so far!
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Update: Finally got the engine on the stand!
Just today, I picked up my 49K mile 2K2 Maxima engine for $530. The engine and carfax reports seem to be very clean. There have only been 2 owners, with the salvage yard being the 3rd. The vehicle was in a front end collision in early July 08 and the engine has been sitting in the warehouse since. So it ran not too long ago, which is nice to know.
I plan on tearing down this engine to inspect everything. I hope to perform a leak down test within the next week or so to determine the condition of the piston rings and valve seals. Then I plan to install cams, ARP rod bolts, Z33 triple layer head gaskets (probably HR), inspect cylinder walls, and replace all other seals and gaskets. Also, I will probably do some minor head porting while I have them removed.
Here are the very first pics of the project:
Also, the torque converter housing is able to swap completely over from a VQ auto tranny to the VE RE4F04V tranny. So now my stock transmission will bolt directly to the VQ35. I used a housing from a 4th gen RE4F04A.
VE housing:
Swapping housings:
I'm sure I will have questions as I get further along in this project. But I finally made my engine purchase and figured I'd get this thread started.
Thanks for everyone's help so far!
---------------------
Update: Finally got the engine on the stand!
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What the Sentra SpecV VQ35 swap guys do is move their tranny internals over to the VQ35 6spd bellhousing. So the same may be possible with the VE 5spd tranny.
Or clamp a pair of vice-grips on the flywheel, so the engine can't rotate.... then use your 24" breaker bar from Harbor Freight and take off that bolt. Hasn't failed yet for me, through 4 motors.
You can also torque down the bolt for assembly the same way - just clamp the vice-grips so they jam into the stand bolts.
You can also torque down the bolt for assembly the same way - just clamp the vice-grips so they jam into the stand bolts.
Last edited by grey99max; Nov 7, 2008 at 06:53 AM.
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Or clamp a pair of vice-grips on the flywheel, so the engine can't rotate.... then use your 24" breaker bar from Harbor Freight and take off that bolt. Hasn't failed yet for me, through 4 motors.
You can also torque down the bolt for assembly the same way - just clamp the vice-grips so they jam into the stand bolts.
You can also torque down the bolt for assembly the same way - just clamp the vice-grips so they jam into the stand bolts.
5spd rod-shifted internals into a 6spd dual-cable-shifted 6spd case... it'd be best to just use a 6spd and figure out how to use a 5.5gen shifter. i mean... heck who wouldn't want a 6spd tranny?
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I meant that it may be possible to swap the VE 5spd guts over to a VQ30 5spd tranny so that it will bolt up to the VQ35.
maybe. i don't know why you'd need to, rather than using the internals of the normal VQ30 5spd.. I30t manuals had VLSD (at least some of them did) so that's the tranny you'd really want. I'm not sure the 4th/5th gen open-diff case has room for the VLSD itself... and probably doesn't have the right size indentions for axle seals either, because the driverside axle seal between my VE5 and VG5 trannies are WAY WAY different, and i'd imagine the same between VLSD and Open Diff'd VQ30 5spds as well. If and when I do a VQ swap i'm definitely using the 6spd HLSD.
maybe. i don't know why you'd need to, rather than using the internals of the normal VQ30 5spd.. I30t manuals had VLSD (at least some of them did) so that's the tranny you'd really want. I'm not sure the 4th/5th gen open-diff case has room for the VLSD itself... and probably doesn't have the right size indentions for axle seals either, because the driverside axle seal between my VE5 and VG5 trannies are WAY WAY different, and i'd imagine the same between VLSD and Open Diff'd VQ30 5spds as well. If and when I do a VQ swap i'm definitely using the 6spd HLSD.
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I use it anytime I need to remove a bunch of bolts in a hurry.
i don't have a VE 5-speed tranny. i only have a VG 5speed along with a spare in my shed. VE 5speeds are hard to find down here. i came across one but didn't have the money to get it. i wish i can figure out a way to use the newer 5spd's for this swap???
if you have the cash to try it, then it's worth a shot, because if you really want VLSD (over quaife) cuz wrecked i30t m/ts are almost impossible to find in the Jy and it sure as hell ain't worth it to buy a RUNNING one just for parts when there are a few other options.
Last edited by CapedCadaver; Nov 7, 2008 at 11:24 PM.
well your best bet for a 5spd is probably the vq30 rs5f05v (i30t). OR go 6spd and do a cable conversion. now there's a chance that the bellhousing side isn't the side that determines the diff type (all 89-94 m/t uses the same passenger side axle seal). but if it isn't, the question then is, do the bolt holes line up between the VE outer half, and the VQ bellhousing half? and if it all ends up not working, are you willing to front the cash to try it in the first place?
if you have the cash to try it, then it's worth a shot, because if you really want VLSD (over quaife) cuz wrecked i30t m/ts are almost impossible to find in the Jy and it sure as hell ain't worth it to buy a RUNNING one just for parts when there are a few other options.
if you have the cash to try it, then it's worth a shot, because if you really want VLSD (over quaife) cuz wrecked i30t m/ts are almost impossible to find in the Jy and it sure as hell ain't worth it to buy a RUNNING one just for parts when there are a few other options.
So does anyone know this dude??? I wonder if this is just a front with a 3.5 engine cover on top of a 3rd gen motor...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-kM1...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-kM1...eature=related
Kind of seems like it might be real, but it's too hard to tell. The video SUCKS. Everything is really dark and with the engine cover on it's rather vague. The video seems more like he wants to show off his sweet blue headlights and painted hood 
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So does anyone know this dude??? I wonder if this is just a front with a 3.5 engine cover on top of a 3rd gen motor...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-kM1...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-kM1...eature=related
OK. So can the 4th gen timing equipment work with the 3rd gen ECU? That's the only way this swap would make sense because it wouldn't make sense to swap in 4th gen timing equipment and then have to swap to a 4th gen ECU and engine harness....I think...
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No, you must swap the 4th gen timing components WITH the 4th gen ECU. So yes, he swapped a lot of wiring. It makes more sense to do the full 2K2 ECU swap to begin with. But, I think the biggest reason why he did it that way was because he had several 4th gen parts cars at his disposal and he was on a budget.
so quick question aaron your doing a 3.5 with a VE auto?? the reason why i ask this is because i kno ALOT of ppl with 3rd Gens, me personally iam from the Islands and we love our Maximas lol but the 3rd gen autos are know for going bad i.e Slipping, no 2nd or 3rd gear, no reverse so do you think it will hold the power?? and wernt you sparying b4?
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so quick question aaron your doing a 3.5 with a VE auto?? the reason why i ask this is because i kno ALOT of ppl with 3rd Gens, me personally iam from the Islands and we love our Maximas lol but the 3rd gen autos are know for going bad i.e Slipping, no 2nd or 3rd gear, no reverse so do you think it will hold the power?? and wernt you sparying b4?
Yeah, I was spraying a 75 shot with my original VE Auto tranny with 203K miles. It ran 12.8 with nitrous and 13.7 All Motor.
So yeah, I think it will hold the power for a while before it dies from old age. Once it does die, I'll probably just swap in another used tranny or put a couple grand in it to build it up.
The RE4F04V in the 3rd gen is not any weaker than the RE4F04A/V in the 4th gen. It's just older. The tranny you may be thinking of is the RE4F02A that comes with the VG30E. It's known to have problems holding power.
Yeah, I was spraying a 75 shot with my original VE Auto tranny with 203K miles. It ran 12.8 with nitrous and 13.7 All Motor.
So yeah, I think it will hold the power for a while before it dies from old age. Once it does die, I'll probably just swap in another used tranny or put a couple grand in it to build it up.
Yeah, I was spraying a 75 shot with my original VE Auto tranny with 203K miles. It ran 12.8 with nitrous and 13.7 All Motor.
So yeah, I think it will hold the power for a while before it dies from old age. Once it does die, I'll probably just swap in another used tranny or put a couple grand in it to build it up.
but the internals Aaron is using is the same.. he just would rather keep his VLSD than use a 4th gen tranny and lose VLSD (cuz the VLSD one was standard on all VE autos, whereas I think only I30s and canadian maximas had the VLSD in the 4th gen era?)
Look what I got at the yard today! ECU, eGas, Cluster, NATS, and Dash Harness all from the same vehicle! I am going back tomorrow to get the ignition and key since I ran out of time today and couldn't get the ignition module off fast enough. I may just have to pull the entire column and take it home with me. That's what I bought, so I might as well.
But that dash harness was tough to get out! The interior was fully in tact since it's so new on the lot. It took me 3 hours to get all of these parts pulled today.
But that dash harness was tough to get out! The interior was fully in tact since it's so new on the lot. It took me 3 hours to get all of these parts pulled today.
Good luck man, I love the 3rd gen!
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But I have another cluster from an 03 Maxima that is silver. I'd much rather have that, but I don't want the mileage to say 95K miles, which is what the car had before I yanked it. I wonder how hard it is to swap the silver panels from that cluster onto my 49K mile cluster. It would just be nice if the cluster said exactly how many miles are on the engine that I have.
Yes, I will be using the 5.5 cluster in my 3rd gen since I'm doing a full ECU/wiring swap. Also, I was able to get the cluster from the same exact engine that I have. So the mileage on this cluster should be around 49K miles since that's what I carfax report said.
But I have another cluster from an 03 Maxima that is silver. I'd much rather have that, but I don't want the mileage to say 95K miles, which is what the car had before I yanked it. I wonder how hard it is to swap the silver panels from that cluster onto my 49K mile cluster. It would just be nice if the cluster said exactly how many miles are on the engine that I have.
But I have another cluster from an 03 Maxima that is silver. I'd much rather have that, but I don't want the mileage to say 95K miles, which is what the car had before I yanked it. I wonder how hard it is to swap the silver panels from that cluster onto my 49K mile cluster. It would just be nice if the cluster said exactly how many miles are on the engine that I have.
i've never opened up a digital-speedo cluster but you might be able to switch just the odometer/memory device into the silver one.. or swap all the silver ones into the one with black faces.
Last edited by CapedCadaver; Nov 11, 2008 at 09:07 AM.
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should be a decently simple swap. i have switched god-knows-how-many panels around in my 3rd gen clusters over the years (from black to white, replacing failed components, etc)
i've never opened up a digital-speedo cluster but you might be able to switch just the odometer/memory device into the silver one.. or swap all the silver ones into the one with black faces.
i've never opened up a digital-speedo cluster but you might be able to switch just the odometer/memory device into the silver one.. or swap all the silver ones into the one with black faces.
It's not the high mileage that bothers me. I just like having a cluster that shows the exact mileage of the engine that I'll be running.
