Cool. I may play around with this.

 

Aaron i need you to speed up the process my friend so that i can swap mine in as well.

 

Alright. I'll try to work harder.

 

Good job bro,I like how the project coming along

 

seriously? running the voltage backwards will wind the mileage down on a digital odometer? On a mechanical one like the 3rd gen, yea, but i didn't think that would work on a 5th gen speedo....

 

how the hell would you make it to go backwards once you wire it up???

 

Got my pulley in today.

 

I guess you going to grind the a/c rib off that one...?

 

No, the AC and alternator are on the same rib for the 3.5.

But I can run this engine down the 1/4 mile without any belts though if I wanted to.

 

Oh I didn't realize they share a rib. I guess you could say our pulley has a 'spare rib'

 

Nice pulley !

 

Heads are off!

 

bahahaha!!!! indeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeed!!!!

damn cylinder 1 looks like it could use some sand paper elbow grease lol

 

All the cylinder walls look to be in near perfect condition. There are no marks or scratches at all on any of them. Just a nice crosshatch.

Piston #1 is at TDC in that picture. So you are seeing the top of the nasty piston.

 

Aaron, how is the wiring so far???

 

this is going to be awesome

 

oh damn! man i'd go down town on those piston tops with a wire brush head on the drill. but that's just me LOL

 

No point in doing that if the same thing is going to happen again. Re-ringing the motor is the only worthwhile course of action, if anything.

 

Wiring? I haven't come close to that part of the project yet. Step 1 is to get this engine together on the stand. Then I'll physically install it in the engine bay with the 4th gen crossmember. Then I'll worry about installing the wiring harness.

I already have a dash harness. And I already ordered the engine harness, but it got lost in transit! They claimed they have found it, but I can tell they don't know for sure. I know the package is insured, but it's just a hard part to find, I don't want my money back. I want the harness!

In the meantime, I can go through the harnesses, label and prune out what I don't need like eng92 did.

Yeah. And I don't want to scratch up the top of the pistons. Did you get my PM?

 

Wow - great minds and all that...

That's exactly what I did to mine. Cleaned out the head chambers, too, then lightly buffed the block with the wire brush before installing the 2005 350Z 3-layer head gaskets. I guess those things worked - the engine still runs rather well.

 

Why bother cleaning it? The first time he sprays, it'll burn right off.

 

maybe it's just me, but there's something that FEELS wrong about putting it all back together, seeing how dirty those pistons were. Would it make a difference? slim if any. It's mostly a psycological factor here.

I cant work on an engine if its got dirt and grime all over (as you know I keep a huge stock of brake parts cleaner LOL). Same applies to putting the engine back together. I could not let my self put Aaron's motor without cleaning it off

 

Or detonate, with all that crud glowing in the dark.....

Has it been sucking oil? Did the IM have lots of motor oil in the intake elbow and intake runners? Mine did - so I installed two inline oil-air separators between the PCV valve and the vacuum intake stub on the elbow. They sure collect a lot of oil after a few runs, too...

 

 

OK - that motor has been sucking oil from somewhere - it seems like all cylinders have deposits on the pistons. That is not pretty - and looks a lot like my engine did when I peeled the heads off. (with 60K miles)...


Since I wasn't going to pull the pistons or re-ring the engine, I chose to tilt the engine over past vertical on one side, washed the pistontops with acetone, wire-buffed the pistons - and head gasket surfaces, then flipped the block over and did the same on the other bank. cleaned the wire brush with acetone at the same time. Then I buffed out the combustion chambers the same way. Clean off the cylinder walls with a cloth soaked in acetone. The whole thing came out clean and tidy. Put some motor oil in each cylinder when done.

Second choice is to replace at least the rings, or pistons and rings, and still wire-brush the heads - because I bet there is the same crud in the corners of the combustion chambers.

You will start to enjoy the acetone fumes as well...

 

I hope your oil pump blows up, I really do.

 

hey could you pm me a pic of this or if aaron does not mind pic it here

I've been meaning to install one but stop modding the car when the tranny broke

 

Ah just run a vacuum hose to washerfluid reservoir during idle
(Back yard meth inj).

I would also like to see how you guys route the catch can

 

I would do the second choice. I'm sure you could pick up a set of better piston rings and just have the pistons dry blasted or clean them with actone, no need to disconnect the rod from the piston, then just rehone the cylinder walls, reinstall with a nice set of HR or ARP bolts. Spend about $200 for piece of mind

 

I agree with everything but the rehone. As long as the factory crosshatch is intact, leaving well enough alone is best. Otherwise the pattern will be uneven which is undesireable. The only time rehoning is suitable is when the cylinders have completely glazed over and have lost their oil-holding capabilities.

 

I thought a good idea to rehone (I'm thinking of the flexible ball-type honing that you can attach to a drill and do yourself) is when you get a new set of piston rings, this gives the piston rings a new surface to set themselves into (or seed if you will) especially if crosshatch with the ball hone, I was planning on honing my 3.0 with the new pistons and rings going in.

Also nismology did you get my PM on the LIM info?

 

Yes. I won't hone this block. The cross hatch is perfectly in tact and the cylinder walls are flawless.

If I were to rering the pistons, I'd overbore it and start from scratch. But I do have to stop spending money somewhere.

And I think the pistons look like any 49K mile piston would look like. I will still clean them carefully, but it looks normal to me.

 

Here's a photo of my two in-line oil/air filters:




These were purchased at Harbor Freight... connected between the PCV valve and a vacuum line into the SSIM.

 

Oops, sorry, wrong link, here it is: Custom PS lines

 

did you put anything between the front valve cover and the intake mid pipe

 

Thanks. I may need a custom hose fabricated.

 

Look better?

 

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO perddy

 

Nope - just a baby cone filter on the valve cover. It doesn't go any further than that.

 

Dang ! That looks good - don't you feel better now? (You do good work).

So did you use a wire brush and did you do the block and heads as well? The block-head surfaces look clean enough to eat from.