I believe it should work with the PFTB, yes. Try to mount it on there.

You can block off the IACV just like you would with a 5th gen TB, search around on it. Basically you can just use some sheet metal cut to shape, and some RTV or JB weld.

 

ok great! thanks pmohr! i was nervous there for a minute! haha...


ok i'll search soon...search on the org isn't working right now for some reason...so i guess i'll have to wait...

 

Hey did this get started yet? Interested to know how things are working out. I drilled through my pathy TB and im using a pathy tb with the pathy IACV and TPS. Car idles fine now, a little high, but im thinoking to switch to a 3.0 TPS since im having weird driveability issues at times.

 

congrats on your swap!

i got all my parts in. all i need now is a fuel pressure regulator and i can begin the swap....Nealoc87 and grey99max suggested aeromotive fpr and that's like 150ish or so....so i'm waiting on another pay check(difficult in college) then after that i'm ready to start!

this weekend will get the 3.5 on an engine stand and begin tearing into it.

what weird drivability issues are you having?? like the power??

 

on another note the ebay afpr works fine also. it was like $20 shipped and has worked well for over 3 years now.....

just another option, but i've always wanted the aeromotive and SS braided lines, pretty and secure

 

ok that's what i've been hearing...thanks for your input!

did yours come with a gauge? would you mind linking me one similar to what you got? this might help the college funds

 

mine has a gauge on the afpr itself, but not a remote one that could be mounted in the car. Might be a way to rig it as such but I never looked into it.

 

ok....could you link me to the one that you are using? there are so many variations i want to make sure i'm getting the correct one....??

but yeah i want a gauge on the fpr....

 

is this similar to the one your talking about?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...id=p2759.l1259

 

aero ftw, had a kirban and the diaphram leaked twice the company replaced it fo free but who wants to deal with that. last time they replaced the kirban sold it and bought a aero and never had another problem

 

Plusone for Aeromotive. But check out this snazzy knock off
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-...1%7C240%3A1318.
It has me thinking you know.lol

 

that one looks pretty cool!

but would all the things coming with it be useful?

decisions....decisions....

 

Thats not it. I'll check on there to try and find it. It has 3 nipples on it (larger) for fuel, and a smaller one as a vaccum source...

damn thats a nice one! looks like the aeromotive but minus the price tag!

 

alright....


i've been doing some more thinking about getting the most out of this 3.5 swap. and so i've been reading more about the vafc 2, EU, and widebands. for a wideband i think i've decided about a zt-2 w/o the display screen. now i'm debating a vafc-2 or EU. i couldn't find much info specifically reguarding a 3.5 swap but i was just wondering is the EU able to justify the $200-300 price difference? how much could i bump timing from it?? would it be worth it? basically i would LOVE the EU but for the price i just want to see what you guys think about the gains to be had from it. if there is good power to be had from the EU then i will go that route.....

 

EU would be the best for the motor, you'll have faar more elbow room for tuning than any other device. Sadly were limited to our options and the EU is the best we can get.

EU you can adjust fuel almost as much as you want and timing, careful as you should know improper tune can/will kill the motor.

Plan and simple if you can afford the EU and know how to use it or know someone who can, get it. You will get the most you can out of the motor by using it.

 

ok sweet. well i don't know about tuning...never done it but i plan to learn how to do it. i'll probably bug Dandymax for a while...lol...

from what i understand i can save different programs on my laptop and upload them to the EU whenever i want? like i have have a tune for 87...91....or 110? and when i want that tune i can just put it on the EU correct? i'm just curious because i was thinking what would happen to the programs when you disconnet the battery? do you have to start tuning all over again? anyway....i have alot of reading to do

 

That or just upload the maps you want on there, then switch between them using the dip switches on the EU.

Nothing happens when you remove battery power, think of it the same way as a PDA; everything's written on an EEPROM, so whether or not it's got battery power, the data is still there.

 

if only the utec worked the same way...



you can have various tunes saved on the EU on various dip switches. You can have a stock, aggressive tune, higher octane tune, whatever you want on them.

You can tune for different fuel levels. The car stock takes 91, so I wouldn't try to do a tune for 87 octane gas.... Since you've never tuned before I wouldnt worry about trying to have a high octane tune, you have a lot to learn and do before you get to tune for that.

Read read and read on how to tune, specifically with the EU, learn the values and how your changes affect them and your unit of measure is cruial. You never know the mis typing of a value could leave you looking for a new motor to install. First key is make your adjustments in small amounts and see how that change affected the car. Also tune in small amounts.

 

thanks guys!


well i think i've decided to get the EU and mess with it on the 3.0, i'll figure/learn how to change timing, afr, higher rev limit. i figure if i learn on the 3.0 i won't be too worried about messing it up because i've got the 3.5 going in soon.

ok, i can't remember the exact number but aren't stock 3.0 "safe" to take to 7500? i know the 3.5 will need arp rod bolts. but if i plan to get cams and raise rev limit on the 3.5 i will need bolts and new oil pump? would it be from the rev up motors? i think i read the highest for a 3.5 with arp bolts was 7200? is that correct?

sorry if that is confusing...basically i just want to play/learn to tune the 3.0 and i just wanna know the highest revs i can take it. THEN when i'm satisfied with my tuning capabilities....i will put in my cammed 3.5 and want to know how safely high revs i can take it....but yes i know...i have alot of reading

 

i was reading through Dandymax's EU write up. he was talking about using resistors in the EU so a code won't come up. he had mentioned that the "new" version D might not need the resistors. well the guy that i'm planning to get the EU from said its the newest one version E. will i need the resistors for this model? thanks!

 

You don't necessarily need the resistors (and last I heard, they were to keep the coils from burning up, not setting a code, but it could be both). It's more luck of the draw as to whether or not you have problems.

FWIW, we didn't use any resistors when we installed the EU on Merlyn's car, never had a coil or a code problem.

 

thanks pmohr!

do you know what version it was that yall used?

 

No idea. He bought it new from a vendor somewhere around early '08, IIRC. So D, maybe the version before.

 

ok cool. well Dandymax had said something about the D version might not need the resistors...but your probably right...its a hit or miss thing. well i'll get it hooked up without the resistors and see what happens!

 

well i finally got to tear into the 3.5! it went really well. now i'm looking for a donor 3.0 for the timing stuff that way i don't have to be without a car but for a day or so.... here are some pictures!

 

headers, EU , wideband, and some other goodies will be here next week and i'll post up pics then!

 

ooo that motor looks very Clean

 

ok guys...i'm starting to confuse myself...

2 things...


1, i'm having a very difficult time finding arp rob bolts for some reason. i've searched here and googled but i just can't seem to find a good place that sells them. where do yall normally get them from?

2, i'm going to be getting an EU and extending my rev limit. i figured with arp rod bolts i'd be fine to go to 7200-7500. for now i'll be sticking with stock cams. so my question is can i rev this high with just the VIAS delete? from things i read in te future i plan on cams and 350z IM...but for now this is what i'm going with. so should i do the SSIM and try to tune back most of the lost power or will VIAS delete be ok for my extended rev limit

 

1.http://z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?model...ne&prodid=2442

2. I dont know your timeline for completion but I would save up & install the cams before you install the engine. I would def do the SSIM mod if you plan to rev past 6500 but I wouldnt trust the stock valve springs @7500. HR's or Jwt's ftw.

 

ok great! thanks for the website! i never could find a good one....

well....the timeline might be next year because i don't really want to spend another 1200 ish on cams and valve springs and bolts because i'm also saving up for a trip to japan this christmas break ...meet the girl's parents/family. so once i make sure i have the money for that then i'll move on to cams.


so how high of rpm can i go with stock parts? is 7100 the maximum? didn't SR20DEN raise his rev limit without cams? i need to research his setup....

 

i've been have difficulties with the search....


i've got ARP rod bolts. and with the EU i want to extend the rev limit....

accordingtou... i've read other threads about extending the rev limit and some one said SR20DEN is going to 7500 on stock internals....so i guess i'm confused...with the rod bolts and stock cams won't i be fine to rev to 7300-7500?

 

ok well i got some parts in! got my OBXV2 headers, EU, and AFPR


i hooked up the exhaust and everything fit quite nicely. so we'll see what happens with the cross member....






ok i've got a question about the wide band....

i got the A/F hook up for the EU. so there is a white wire and a grey wire. which wire do i use from the wideband?? is it the white analog output or is it the purple linear output? and since i've got the EU do i still need to hook up the TPS wire and Tach wire from the wideband? or can i just forget them since the EU has those hooked up...i'm confused i just wanted to post my question here...but i'll call zeitronix and greddy next week if i can't get an answer...

and do i need to use the gray cable wire for the computer hook up? or is this only if i didn't have the EU?

 

Oohhhh - I lak dem headers !!! Now if they just fit in the car.....

Visiting the girl's parents, hmmmm ?? So if you start selling off car parts within the year, can I bid on those headers? If they fit?

 

lol...yep...if that happens youll be the first one i let know Harold! yep off to meet the parents in japan! might have to pick me up some skyline motors or something while i'm there!! haha

they fit up nicely so hopefully i won't have too much trouble with the cross member. i plan on cutting off the end of the y-pipe because its 2.25 and run 2.5 all the way back. eventually i'll run 3'' exhaust pipe with borla muffler

i think i got my answer for the EU/Wideband hook up....so now i'm just waiting on my ARP rod bolts to get in

 

ok guys last night i successfully installed the EU into the car. it went very well and appears to be working.

there are a couple things that i'm a little confused about....for one my timing is showing like 5 degrees at idle....then if i rev it up really quick it will go close to and sometimes over 100 degrees.....anyone know what's up with that??

i have the KS hooked up where the intake temp could go do i think i will change that and put the KS on the analog input....

any ideas on the timing??

 

hey guys! wow! i've had my fair share of tuning today....lol


i've got a datalog of extending the rev limit. i can't feal anything rough until i get to about 7200ish and it feels like it doesn't accelerate smoothly...but i don't hear anything weird.... i also have the timing map and injecture PW map. can yall give me any advice about changing my numbers to improve the car? this is a very rough tune btw....i just want to practice before i put in the 3.5....

also....how do i know if the car has KNOCK or not? the FSM said it should be between 2-3 Volts....so is 1.xx knock? or is 3.xx knock? anyone know??

today was my first time to tune ever....things seemed to go very well. the reason i had to put timing all the way across is because my car is in safe mode...so i need to get my O2 sensors fixed so i can increase to more timing!

let me know!

 

hey guys!

finally got my eu installed and hidden! its amazing the difference....sooo much faster!

one question....what voltage is knock and which one isn't? i can't seem to find much info on it...

enjoy!










i know the trim piece is broken....i've got one in the mail from DaveB!

 

Sweet install!

 

stealthy

 

Thanks for the idea....
Seriously Thankyou