Whats the best way to Build a FWD VQ35 Block
#41
RPM NYC Say this on NYC Maxima's
ERL M.I.D block w. billet girdle.
CP pistons 8.8:1, Eagle rods.
Cosworth HG and Head Studs.
BC Stg 3 cams 272* w/ BC Springs, Ti Retainers.
Supertech valves, reshim the head.
Port out the heads, 5 angle valve job.
Leave the 6spd alone, get beefier axles.
Meth can be used as a power adder if properly tuned.
Stand Alone: Power FC RB26DETT D Jetro (MAP sensor) can be wired to run a VQ30/35, requires 370cc or higher injectors, or RB25DET L Jetro w/ Z32 MAF. Requires resistor pack for injectors depending on which injectors you will use and require a jumper harness to be made to plug in your original harness to a RB ECU plug, or you can pin-in a RB ECU plug with the pins necessary to run a VQ. (Firing order is different on both platforms, requires a way to read the dizzy of a RB to translate to CKP on VQ.) *NATS will have to be bypassed*
350z harness can be used on your motor, wiring extensions needed, and repin plug to cluster. (Will need to use your A33 harness plug to use on Z33.) Then you can plug in whatever Standalone supported for Z33.
Source down VQ30DET (Cima Y33) ECU and convert to NIStune programable ROM, requires repin of ecu plug. Use this route if AutoMatic.
ERL M.I.D block w. billet girdle.
CP pistons 8.8:1, Eagle rods.
Cosworth HG and Head Studs.
BC Stg 3 cams 272* w/ BC Springs, Ti Retainers.
Supertech valves, reshim the head.
Port out the heads, 5 angle valve job.
Leave the 6spd alone, get beefier axles.
Meth can be used as a power adder if properly tuned.
Stand Alone: Power FC RB26DETT D Jetro (MAP sensor) can be wired to run a VQ30/35, requires 370cc or higher injectors, or RB25DET L Jetro w/ Z32 MAF. Requires resistor pack for injectors depending on which injectors you will use and require a jumper harness to be made to plug in your original harness to a RB ECU plug, or you can pin-in a RB ECU plug with the pins necessary to run a VQ. (Firing order is different on both platforms, requires a way to read the dizzy of a RB to translate to CKP on VQ.) *NATS will have to be bypassed*
350z harness can be used on your motor, wiring extensions needed, and repin plug to cluster. (Will need to use your A33 harness plug to use on Z33.) Then you can plug in whatever Standalone supported for Z33.
Source down VQ30DET (Cima Y33) ECU and convert to NIStune programable ROM, requires repin of ecu plug. Use this route if AutoMatic.
#42
Thats an easy way to throw away 20k. Then you would have to spend more to find someone that can tune it, assemble it, o yea and drive it. If youa re looking for 500hp you dont need all that crap at all. Myself along with streetz and harold are all building 3.5's man . Stop posting and do some searching on here and my350z. it will save you some confusion.
#43
#44
Think about it - if there's a 20% drivetrain loss in the automatic, that's 500 HP at the crank.
If you want a turbo beast and don't want to spend the next six months scrounging a bunch of random mis-matched parts that you've read about here and there, buy this short block from Cosworth: http://www.cosworthusa.com/store/pc/...6&idproduct=52
and these heads: http://www.cosworthusa.com/store/pc/...7&idproduct=68
with these cams: http://www.cosworthusa.com/store/pc/...&idproduct=383
and turbocharge it - as hard as you want. This combination actually works...
but I'm :
#45
My 405 WHP is at the wheels - not the crank. And that's with a stock 2002 3.5L with eBay cams and 175-shot of nitrous.
Think about it - if there's a 20% drivetrain loss in the automatic, that's 500 HP at the crank.
If you want a turbo beast and don't want to spend the next six months scrounging a bunch of random mis-matched parts that you've read about here and there, buy this short block from Cosworth: http://www.cosworthusa.com/store/pc/...6&idproduct=52
and these heads: http://www.cosworthusa.com/store/pc/...7&idproduct=68
with these cams: http://www.cosworthusa.com/store/pc/...&idproduct=383
and turbocharge it - as hard as you want. This combination actually works...
but I'm :
Think about it - if there's a 20% drivetrain loss in the automatic, that's 500 HP at the crank.
If you want a turbo beast and don't want to spend the next six months scrounging a bunch of random mis-matched parts that you've read about here and there, buy this short block from Cosworth: http://www.cosworthusa.com/store/pc/...6&idproduct=52
and these heads: http://www.cosworthusa.com/store/pc/...7&idproduct=68
with these cams: http://www.cosworthusa.com/store/pc/...&idproduct=383
and turbocharge it - as hard as you want. This combination actually works...
but I'm :
#46
#47
#48
Stickies? http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...s-lengthy.html
Still wondering about 'short block', though.
Still wondering about 'short block', though.
#49
Stickies? http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...s-lengthy.html
Still wondering about 'short block', though.
Still wondering about 'short block', though.
The response's I am getting they're saying i should steer away from the stroker kit because it doesn't yield much power, and it be wise to just get pistons and connecting rods and a good engine management system.
#50
On top of all of this, I see no evidence that you've done much modding at all, and you're talking about dropping thousands of dollars in a built motor? For what? You're having to ask members of other forums what they'd do if they had money to spend just because you're too lazy to do the research yourself. When it comes time to build and you've got all of these parts laid out in front of you because a bunch of guys on the internet told you to buy them, will you even know what to do with them?
Sorry if I come off as rash here, but asking "what's the best way to build a motor" just tells everyone that you haven't done your homework. My first-hand experience with maximas is nothing more than mild bolt-on mods but my theoretical knowledge is expansive, just from lurking and reading the contents of this forum.
#51
You really, really, really just need to research ways of making power. Throwing "stroker kits" and "pistons and connecting rods" at the motor are NOT going to be cost effective whatsoever if you have no idea what you're going for. You could make an engine out of solid diamond and it wouldn't make much more power than stock if you haven't changed anything else. Stop thinking you can throw parts at a car and you will hit a magical WHP number.
On top of all of this, I see no evidence that you've done much modding at all, and you're talking about dropping thousands of dollars in a built motor? For what? You're having to ask members of other forums what they'd do if they had money to spend just because you're too lazy to do the research yourself. When it comes time to build and you've got all of these parts laid out in front of you because a bunch of guys on the internet told you to buy them, will you even know what to do with them?
Sorry if I come off as rash here, but asking "what's the best way to build a motor" just tells everyone that you haven't done your homework. My first-hand experience with maximas is nothing more than mild bolt-on mods but my theoretical knowledge is expansive, just from lurking and reading the contents of this forum.
On top of all of this, I see no evidence that you've done much modding at all, and you're talking about dropping thousands of dollars in a built motor? For what? You're having to ask members of other forums what they'd do if they had money to spend just because you're too lazy to do the research yourself. When it comes time to build and you've got all of these parts laid out in front of you because a bunch of guys on the internet told you to buy them, will you even know what to do with them?
Sorry if I come off as rash here, but asking "what's the best way to build a motor" just tells everyone that you haven't done your homework. My first-hand experience with maximas is nothing more than mild bolt-on mods but my theoretical knowledge is expansive, just from lurking and reading the contents of this forum.
Over the coarse of time Ive read simular threads like mine, and it seems to be that just throwing in Pistons and connecting rods along with boring the block out and a good engine management would do the trick.
The only problem is when I first read some of the threads most people said don't go past 8-9psi the bottom ends aren't to boost friendly. I realize I should spend alot more time reading up on things but I don't.
I have thrown the idea around of getting a different car, I spend alot of time on IWSTI and I don't even own the car how ironic, that's one of the cars Ive been considering. But then the idea pop into my head about maybe doing something different something you don't see everyday like a boosted 3.5 maxima. And I wanna somewhat make a statement with it.
I really didn't ask for all the hostile but I got that.
the thing that bothers me the most is that there isn't much aftermarket surpport for these cars if they're were we'd see a hell of a lot more faster maximas.
#52
I understand your POV. But I am just going by what can and cannot be done because even if I didn't ask questions and came in here and said I got this that and the other thing it be one big cluster **** now wouldn't it.
Over the coarse of time Ive read simular threads like mine, and it seems to be that just throwing in Pistons and connecting rods along with boring the block out and a good engine management would do the trick.
The only problem is when I first read some of the threads most people said don't go past 8-9psi the bottom ends aren't to boost friendly. I realize I should spend alot more time reading up on things but I don't.
I have thrown the idea around of getting a different car, I spend alot of time on IWSTI and I don't even own the car how ironic, that's one of the cars Ive been considering. But then the idea pop into my head about maybe doing something different something you don't see everyday like a boosted 3.5 maxima. And I wanna somewhat make a statement with it.
I really didn't ask for all the hostile but I got that.
the thing that bothers me the most is that there isn't much aftermarket surpport for these cars if they're were we'd see a hell of a lot more faster maximas.
Over the coarse of time Ive read simular threads like mine, and it seems to be that just throwing in Pistons and connecting rods along with boring the block out and a good engine management would do the trick.
The only problem is when I first read some of the threads most people said don't go past 8-9psi the bottom ends aren't to boost friendly. I realize I should spend alot more time reading up on things but I don't.
I have thrown the idea around of getting a different car, I spend alot of time on IWSTI and I don't even own the car how ironic, that's one of the cars Ive been considering. But then the idea pop into my head about maybe doing something different something you don't see everyday like a boosted 3.5 maxima. And I wanna somewhat make a statement with it.
I really didn't ask for all the hostile but I got that.
the thing that bothers me the most is that there isn't much aftermarket surpport for these cars if they're were we'd see a hell of a lot more faster maximas.
Just when you think you are ready to reply to this thread again STOP, search Google. Once you have read thru the thousands of hits you will find on there you should figure out your end goals. Not a power level but how you plan to hit it. If you plan to boost it takes a completely different engine build than a nitrous build.
I just want you to know we aren't trying to be ****s at all. More or less everything you are wondering has been covered countless times and there is no need to tie up more bandwidth with another thread.
Search is your friend. Trust me if you learn how to use it there will be no need for threads. Believe me i don't have many threads here.
#53
My rep kind of speaks for itself, now
When you think you're done searching and reading everything...change up the keywords a bit, read all those threads you missed. When you think you're done that...do it again. And again. Reading all of the various threads on a specific topic on this forum is a good way to learn. Nothing like hands-on activity of course, but still a good way.
Same here.
#54
Indeed. Hell, when I got my Max in '05, I didn't even know how to change oil. I made maybe 4 or 5 noob threads back in the day, spent the rest of the time since then reading (had to donate back then, too).
My rep kind of speaks for itself, now
When you think you're done searching and reading everything...change up the keywords a bit, read all those threads you missed. When you think you're done that...do it again. And again. Reading all of the various threads on a specific topic on this forum is a good way to learn. Nothing like hands-on activity of course, but still a good way.
Same here.
My rep kind of speaks for itself, now
When you think you're done searching and reading everything...change up the keywords a bit, read all those threads you missed. When you think you're done that...do it again. And again. Reading all of the various threads on a specific topic on this forum is a good way to learn. Nothing like hands-on activity of course, but still a good way.
Same here.
I agree their are things I shouldn't have said, I wish I could go back in time and delete my worthless post's because thats what 95% of them are. I wish I knew how much I do now then I did then.
#55
Well, I am hoping to shed some light on this. Hope you guys agree, I am gonna go the route of boosting the car.
Wiesco 8:8:1 Pistons
GTMotorsports Heads
Tomei Rods
Costworth Bearings
JWT S1 Cams with Valve Springs
Hopefully with good engine management I could setup a good map for E-85, or to just one a Meth Map. I think I may go with a Haltech seems like thats the thing to go with although its pricey, I am sure SuraTT can make a harness for that.
Wiesco 8:8:1 Pistons
GTMotorsports Heads
Tomei Rods
Costworth Bearings
JWT S1 Cams with Valve Springs
Hopefully with good engine management I could setup a good map for E-85, or to just one a Meth Map. I think I may go with a Haltech seems like thats the thing to go with although its pricey, I am sure SuraTT can make a harness for that.
#56
Well, I am hoping to shed some light on this. Hope you guys agree, I am gonna go the route of boosting the car.
Wiesco 8:8:1 Pistons
GTMotorsports Heads
Tomei Rods
Costworth Bearings
JWT S1 Cams with Valve Springs
Hopefully with good engine management I could setup a good map for E-85, or to just one a Meth Map. I think I may go with a Haltech seems like thats the thing to go with although its pricey, I am sure SuraTT can make a harness for that.
Wiesco 8:8:1 Pistons
GTMotorsports Heads
Tomei Rods
Costworth Bearings
JWT S1 Cams with Valve Springs
Hopefully with good engine management I could setup a good map for E-85, or to just one a Meth Map. I think I may go with a Haltech seems like thats the thing to go with although its pricey, I am sure SuraTT can make a harness for that.
#57
i spend most of my time on forums lurking and reading what i can, and what is pretty much universal between all the forums that have been around a while is they will tell you to use the search tool. and having done so, you will need to determine what your goals are, which you have done, now is the hard part of planning out how you will reach those goals and what you still require of your car after its all said and done. will you want to get the power through na tuning or through forced induction, two very different routes with two very different results and cars that drive very differently as well. being a ae86 guy, i've read countless threads about builds that have similar power goals of say 180-200whp and plan on using the same 4age as a base. both wanted to build drift car. in the end with similar power at the wheels, lsd's, suspension setup, stock tranny with upgraded clutches the two cars were completely different animals. the na was built for linear power, with itb's, 11.5cr, and fuel cutoff at over 9k rpm whereas the boosted motor was running8.5cr, kept the stock fuel cutoff at about 7200rpm and was making his full 12psi from 4500-6800. at drifting the cars required different diving styles, at the strip the boosted ae86 was quicker, but was desamated on a road course. less significant in the case of the vq motors is torque because you guys have it, but still something to look at.
sorry if this post made it seem as if i were ****ting on your thread, but goals and requirements help make it easier for others to help you.
sorry if this post made it seem as if i were ****ting on your thread, but goals and requirements help make it easier for others to help you.
#58
1. OBX headers/y-pipe
2. Full 3" exhaust
3. Intake
4. SSIM
5. NWP IM Spacers
6. Fidanza Flywheel
7. Exedy Clutch
8. Cams
9. Valvesprings
10. Rod Bolts
11. UTEC with new plug-n-play harness
12.Slicks
That setup right there would be good for mid 12's with a good driver, that would be fast enough for you to be a huge sleeper and still beat ALOT of STI's, you would still be N/A with the stock internals on your engine except for the cams/springs. Then you could set aside another engine and build for boost with low-compression and then transfer everything over whenever you are done. And then while you are doing these bolt-ons you can research on how to properly setup/build an engine and then you could have one of the fastest Maxima's in the world.
Last edited by pimpin02max; 06-10-2009 at 10:06 PM.
#60
First of all I don't even know why this was bumped. Pimpinmax thanks for the suggestions, I surpose if I added spray to that list id be in the late 11's And when you say cams how agressive? Tomei makes good one's but I would need adapters for them.
I heard they're good for 18 or so Hp Not a bad gain. If not Tomei Ill go with BC Valves and springs and probably cams, and Call it a day inside the engine internally for the time being.
I have come up with the idea of running meth but I would only do it If was running boost to increase my timing, and allow me to run more boost If i decided to go with a turbo kit. Another Issue is getting the power to stay to the ground I know thats a problem with FWD Cars.
Would I need Motor Mount relocations If I decided to with the Cosworth Block down the road. Because technically that block is made for the 350z's no? Then I gotta take getting a custom ECU into accountiability as well, MOTEC is really expensive, but then again Iam sure Technosquare can figure something out as well.
I heard they're good for 18 or so Hp Not a bad gain. If not Tomei Ill go with BC Valves and springs and probably cams, and Call it a day inside the engine internally for the time being.
I have come up with the idea of running meth but I would only do it If was running boost to increase my timing, and allow me to run more boost If i decided to go with a turbo kit. Another Issue is getting the power to stay to the ground I know thats a problem with FWD Cars.
Would I need Motor Mount relocations If I decided to with the Cosworth Block down the road. Because technically that block is made for the 350z's no? Then I gotta take getting a custom ECU into accountiability as well, MOTEC is really expensive, but then again Iam sure Technosquare can figure something out as well.
Last edited by STILLENGLE; 06-11-2009 at 05:12 AM.
#62
#63
you obviously aren't getting what I am saying and what you said in that thread.
To use a RWD block in a FWD chassis
* Custom motor mounts that extended towards the trans to utilize the center crossmember. Would most likely be weaker than the stock FWD mounts (on the FWD block) unless you braced the hell out of them.
* Custom headers made to stretch around the custom motor mounts made above - as you can see the RWD mounts are just plain in the way of any sort of manifold that comes straight down.
* Custom mounting brackets for all of the accessories, or try to customize the RWD accessories/mounting rails to work
I pretty much bolded that entire paragraph in that thread you created. I am assuming the cosworth block is based off of the 350z. since thats what most company's state their parts off of or for.
To use a RWD block in a FWD chassis
* Custom motor mounts that extended towards the trans to utilize the center crossmember. Would most likely be weaker than the stock FWD mounts (on the FWD block) unless you braced the hell out of them.
* Custom headers made to stretch around the custom motor mounts made above - as you can see the RWD mounts are just plain in the way of any sort of manifold that comes straight down.
* Custom mounting brackets for all of the accessories, or try to customize the RWD accessories/mounting rails to work
I pretty much bolded that entire paragraph in that thread you created. I am assuming the cosworth block is based off of the 350z. since thats what most company's state their parts off of or for.
#64
you obviously aren't getting what I am saying and what you said in that thread.
To use a RWD block in a FWD chassis
* Custom motor mounts that extended towards the trans to utilize the center crossmember. Would most likely be weaker than the stock FWD mounts (on the FWD block) unless you braced the hell out of them.
* Custom headers made to stretch around the custom motor mounts made above - as you can see the RWD mounts are just plain in the way of any sort of manifold that comes straight down.
* Custom mounting brackets for all of the accessories, or try to customize the RWD accessories/mounting rails to work
I pretty much bolded that entire paragraph in that thread you created. I am assuming the cosworth block is based off of the 350z. since thats what most company's state their parts off of or for.
To use a RWD block in a FWD chassis
* Custom motor mounts that extended towards the trans to utilize the center crossmember. Would most likely be weaker than the stock FWD mounts (on the FWD block) unless you braced the hell out of them.
* Custom headers made to stretch around the custom motor mounts made above - as you can see the RWD mounts are just plain in the way of any sort of manifold that comes straight down.
* Custom mounting brackets for all of the accessories, or try to customize the RWD accessories/mounting rails to work
I pretty much bolded that entire paragraph in that thread you created. I am assuming the cosworth block is based off of the 350z. since thats what most company's state their parts off of or for.
You asked if you needed 'motor mount relocations' (i.e. custom mounts) for a RWD Cosworth VQ block.
Does my thread not specifically say that you need different motor mounts?
What are you even talking about? First you're asking about motor mounts, then you bring in the headers/manifolds and the accessory mounting? You really need to be more clear with your posts.
Have you even looked at the picture of the Cosworth block?
Clearly RWD.
#65
I asked you guys that several times. You kept saying what do you mean about relocating the motor mounts. because the cosworth is an upgraded 350z/G35 block.
If I went that route which I am not I would need to get a custom ecu. for now Ill go with pimpin02max mentioned. I am looking at the BC Cams or Tomei. I am just wondering if the BC Cams would be to agressive, they're stage 2 cams can be used with stock lifters and valves. Ill probably go ahead and upgrade anyways.
BC says they're Cams and springs are good for 03-06, why not 02 for Altimas Maximas? I could use these as long as I have adapters right? I guess they're are intended for 350z/G35's
If I went that route which I am not I would need to get a custom ecu. for now Ill go with pimpin02max mentioned. I am looking at the BC Cams or Tomei. I am just wondering if the BC Cams would be to agressive, they're stage 2 cams can be used with stock lifters and valves. Ill probably go ahead and upgrade anyways.
BC says they're Cams and springs are good for 03-06, why not 02 for Altimas Maximas? I could use these as long as I have adapters right? I guess they're are intended for 350z/G35's
Last edited by STILLENGLE; 06-11-2009 at 07:46 PM.
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