That's awesome! We are having a mini-meet in West Palm Beach tomorrow. Can you find a way to idle the car to the meet? I'll be there with my 92 Maxima VQ35.

http://forums.maxima.org/southeast-u...t-anybody.html

 

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looks way clean bro, i cant wait till i have my vq in my spec..

 

what kind of car did you get you motor out of? and can you email me alist of what parts you used total for your swap, and finally how do you have all the 02 sensors all setup so you dont throw a code?

 

We did Kevin's swap years ago.. His engine is out of a 03 Maxima, IIRC..

Congrats on getting her up/running, Kevin.. Let us know what she makes!

Travis

 

Are those C2's? Hardly noticeable at idle..

Here's what Barry's car sounded like with JWT C8's..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGKgk...e=channel_page

Travis

 

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really? One cam has a very noticeable lope while the other sounds completely stock...

 

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That's not very accurate.. EVERY mount is different, with the exception of the transmission side. To do it properly, takes a little bit of craftsmanship.. It's not "hard" to do.. but, it's not necessarily easy, either. It's taken me 3 years to perfect everything. There were changes to the design, even after you swap.

The wiring is by far, the most difficult aspect.. With a little bit of help, we have been able to get our swap codeless, but, it's a little bit of a pain in the @ss, and takes a certain ECU to make it happen.

No swap is ever "perfect".. but, give credit where it's due. I think that we've had a pretty good track record with these swaps. Your car ran for how long, without nearly any issues?

Travis

 

I dunno.. Barry's car is an absolute animal with the C8's.. and driveability is perfectly fine. I've never had a chance to run C2's, but, Barry is making some incredible power for just having a generic reflash.

I'm interested to see what your car puts down with the C2's and the work that's been done.

Travis

 

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Hold up a second.. No, it's not rocket science, but if it was easy.. there's be a LOT more shops doing this swap. It is fairly complex, if you want it to function properly (gauges, A/C, NATS, drive by wire, etc..) You don't have a CLUE.. you drop your car off somewhere, and pay to have work done. So, for you to make claims about the level of difficulty, isn't very realistic. If you have a problem with me, then, that's fine, but, you're not going to publically bash me like that, without provoking a response on my end.

Kevin.. I have NEVER put stock mounts in ANY of my swaps.. So, I don't know where you're getting that from. You show me a SINGLE picture of one of my swaps that was done that way.. Stay Tuned uses stock rubber mounts, that are cut up and welded together. I have NEVER done a swap that way.

The torque mounts have ALWAYS been solid.. We press out the stock, rubber mount bushing, and we used to weld in 316L stainless, 1/4" plate that was water-jet cut to the size needed, along with the holes in the proper spots to line up with the VQ brackets. The front torque mount has a CNC'd 1" thick billet aluminum adapter, that goes from the solid mount, to the VQ bracket.

Since late 2007, we've switched to solid nylatron inserts..





This system has worked phenominally, and we have yet to see a failure.

You have a huge f*cking chip on your shoulder, Kevin.. and I'm not really sure why. But, it's pretty sad.. Your car ran awesome for several years, and put up some pretty damn good numbers. What was not solid about your mounts? Of course they are modified QR BRACKETS.. it has always been that way. I've posted tons of pics from dozens of swaps, showing exactly how I mount the motor into the car. So, where do you get off saying that I lied about something with the mounts?

Shops love to dog other people's work.. and that's fine.. and, yes, your swap experience did not go as smoothly as 99% of the others have.. but, the car ran great, Kevin.. and I have bent over backwards to be courteous towards you. In return, all you have done is dog me, and accuse me of lieing/doing shoddy work.. My swaps are damn near perfect.. And, 99% of the people who leave with one from my hands are happy as hell with it. You want to see top notch work?





Give me a break, man.. You have knit-picked me to death on small stuff with your car for a long time, now.. I'm honestly tired of it. None of this stuff is EVER 100% perfect.. Hell, a STOCK car isn't perfect most of the time. Small stuff comes up, and I'm pretty sure that's the ONLY kind of issues that you've ever had.

So, please take the damn chip off of your shoulder, Kevin.. This is really getting old..

Travis

 

Oh.. and your swap, when it left my hands..



As cosmetically appealing as my latest work? No.. but, it's still clean as hell, and done properly..



Travis

 

interested to see track times, and maybe even dyno #s

 

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seems you're talking about the side mounts and turbos13 is talking about the front and rear mounts. Mis-communication...

 

Exactly, Dave.. And honestly, I've never said that the side mounts were solid.. No one has ever offered a solid side mount setup for this car, and every pic that I've ever shown shows that we modify the stock Spec V SIDE mounts with the swap. I can't make the side mounts solid, because there has to be some flex in those, in order for the torque mounts to properly line up. Every car is slightly different, and typically, the angle at which the side mounts sit can change a few degrees.. which is enough to throw off the bolt alignment if it would be solid.

The torque mounts, which are the most critical, have ALWAYS been solid. It's no secret.. I've never lied about it, or tried to hide anything.

Yes, I did cancel the AFC install, because it would have interfered with the tach adapter that we were using at the time. And, yes, I did go with the 2.5" versus 3", because it would have taken several more weeks to get the 3" tubing in from VRS. I refunded you partially, and there were a few things that I did extra.. so it was a wash, Kevin.

You can't please everyone, unfortunately, and this is just one of those instances.. It's easy for you to sit there and bark out claims, when you have no friggen clue as to what it takes to make this stuff happen. It's just this type of uninformed jibberish that starts trouble for no reason. I have never been ugly with you.. and I've put up with a lot of complaining.. I'm just sick of it, and I'm not going to sit here and let you trash me for no goddamn reason.

Go ahead and build your car, Kevin.. But, it won't be the fastest N/A Sentra.. I can assure you. We took that crown last year, and we'll up the ante again this fall with Barry's car.

Travis

 

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How aout those gators? I hear the eagles are getting rid of Mcnabb..
Whats that? this is not "off topic"?.. Oh sorry, mods can delete this post now.

 

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Great Goodluck @ the dyno.

 

Sure, Kevin.. Dozens upon dozens of people are all lieing to me when they tell me that they are happy with thier cars..? Why don't you let me know who those people were? Get real man..

I banned you from my site, because you talk out of both sides of your mouth. You have no problem asking me about something, then, turning around and calling me a liar on this site. No site is "publically owned". It is a privaledge to post on ANY forum.. I don't care to have you on MY site any longer, if you're going to act this way. Again, I have NEVER been ugly with you, and this was uncalled for. Thespecvboard, I could care less about.. but, I know damn good and well that Kael and most of the crew over at specvforum have a ton of respect for me.

You are NOT right, in this case.. and I have a firm belief that you simply cannot please EVERY customer. Some people have screws loose, or just can't comprehend the whole picture. You can tell people whatever you want, Kevin.. Do you really believe that you're going to ruin my reputation with outlandish claims? People see my work, and they know that I don't mess around. But, I'm not a push-over, and I'm not going to sit here and take bashing from someone (customer or not), when it is not justified.

You have very unreasonable expectations, Kevin.. and I simply can't deal with that. I will say that you car ran just fine, with the exception of some minor teething issues, that come with ANY swapped car. Also, your car was one of the earlier ones that we did, and it had a few more issues than most. But, that's just the nature of this game. It doesn't mean that I f*cked you over, or lied to you.. or whatever.. It simply means that at that time, the swap wasn't 100% perfect. You want to try and crucify me for that? Then, that's your choice, but, I won't associate with you, and I won't have you on my forum. Good luck with your car.

Travis

 

Sorry to the people on the .org.. This should not have gone down like it did. I am done in this thread, as I feel that I have defended myself and said what I had to say.

Travis

 

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I am envious of your build. I want the funds to do this. Sales must be hoppin??? As much of the crap you may or maynot have experienced in your build, it still was done and is your current building block. You might have your differences, however this guy did do you a service that about 98% of shops wouldn't shake a stick at due to liability issues. You would not be at this stage without his help, and personally I think you owe him at least that credit. You two have differences that should be discussed in private, or court if it's that bad, not here on the forum. Your current build is nice and can't wait to see the results. that is what this thread should be about. As for Motor mounts, Nissan motor mounts suck even for our 6th gens. They are not strong enough for the torque this engine puts out stock. Might want to look at inserts or making your own poly mounts. There are kits out there. Post some pics of the build if you would and dyno sheets. Also do you plan on tracking your ride. Curious to see what numbers you put up for the quarter mile. If 300whp I would venture to guess mid 13's n/a. With your build I bet a 75 shot of NO2 would put you in the low 12's. There is a 6th gen that has a 75shot in a stock vq who ran a 12.8 1/4 mile.

 

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I agree once you know an engine they are pretty much all the same until you get into hybrids and what not. Just watching builds on HP tv helps alot. With the right tools and basic knowledge anything is possible. I have never torn down a transmission but plan on doing it soon. Record everything I take out in order and replace in reverse order. Use torque specs from a repair manual I am getting. sounds complex when you think about all the gears and parts, but should be pretty simple. That's pretty cool that the transmission bolted up. Did you have to do anything to beef it up? Our 5 speed auto trannies suck.

 

With 300whp he'll be running low 12's n/a maybe better. With a 75 shot he'd easily be in the 11's. I dyno'd my car and it netted around 235whp and I ran a 12.9 on drag radials...

 

I never meant to come off like that.. I got into it with Stay Tuned, but I appologized to them, publically, and since, have worked with them on getting codes taken care of.

This is an easy swap.. for a shop/person that deals with VQ's in/out, on a daily basis. It's not just a simple swap for the average person, with basic wrenching skills. And, that's not an insult.. it's just the way that it is.

I appologize for the problems that you had.. and I appologize for fightning with you on here. Good luck with your build..

Travis

 

That's really all I've ever wanted.. Credit for doing the swap.. I put a lot of time into each and every one of the cars that I build.. and, while some of the early cars weren't as "complete" as the ones that were built later.. I still gave it 100%. When you have that credit taken away.. it really sucks.. and it's something that eats at you.

As far as his ET/MPH.. A bolted spec at 235-240whp will run 12.90's @ 104-105mph on a 24 x 8" slick. We've done it numerous times.. along with customers.

Barry's car ran 12.20's @ 110-111mph.. He had bolt-on's, C8 cams/springs, ported heads (stock valves), and 11.5:1 C/R. Tuning via T/S generic reflash.. from his MPH and weight.. I'm guessing that his car is making around 300whp.. give or take..

So, Kevin should be right around those times on a cool day, with good traction.

Travis

 

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Thanks.. that's all that I was really looking for..

Barry's car has a decent tune, His biggest problem is 11.5:1 C/R on pump gas, and 100 degree heat. Combined with repeated floggings at the drag strip.. and he had some detonation issues. We're going to knock the compression ratio down just a tad, and go with a big bore/sleeved setup.. which should more than make up for the small drop in compression ratio. This will allow him to run more aggresive timing on pump gas, without detonation, and should yield more power from the 1/2 liter bump in displacement.

Travis

 

I'm 100% sure you have thought of this (meth) but what is your/owners reason for not using meth to control knock on his setup?

 

Hate to really get this too off-topic but all else being equal a larger bore may diminish a particular engine's knock suppression ability; especially with the aready knock-prone VQ35 heads. Simply more area for the flame front to cover (when flame travel speed is a constant). Despite the fact that this could nullify (or partially offset) the drop in compression this setup should probably make more power overall due to raw mechanical advantage, as you said. Just wanted to sprinkle in another angle.



P.S. I wonder if the smaller than spec squish clearance had anything to do with the knock he was experiencing or if it actually helped.

 

I would think that it would have helped.. but, who knows..

11.5:1 on today's "93 octane", with healthy timing and a lot of heat, could definitely push an already detonation prone engine over the edge.

Travis

 

The car wasn't pinging when it was tuned.. as it was cold outside when we built it. And, the owner couldn't hear it pinging when he ran it this summer. I don't really care to rely on alky/meth injection.. to me, it's just another thing to worry about failing.

But, from the start, we didn't feel that it was necessary.. as the car showed no signs of detonation.

Travis