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Building 4th Gen motor for 7k+ RPM?

Old Aug 20, 2009 | 10:28 PM
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Building 4th Gen motor for 7k+ RPM?

Hey

My motor recently died on me probably do to reving up to 7.5k a couple of times.

I am getting a newer motor with about 123,000km's on it and while its not installed in the car was thinking of upgrading some components to make it ready for 7k+.

Something that I think need to be puchased are:

Rev up oil pump
Valve Spings

Now I don't know what brand to get for a rev up oil pump or valve springs.

Any help would be appreciated. If its important to know i'll prolly turbo charge this motor in the near future.

Previous setup:

00vi,Y-Pipe,EU,Fidanza 12lbs Flywheel

Thanks
Old Aug 20, 2009 | 10:32 PM
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Well the RevUp oil pump is out of the RevUp version of the 350Z so thats an OEM part. You can get RevUp valvesprings or VQ35HR valvesprings too IIRC
Old Aug 20, 2009 | 11:01 PM
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VQ35 Oil pump
VQ35HR valve springs and retainers

Got that from dandymax's profile

So I get those and all is good in the 7k-7.5k range?
Old Aug 20, 2009 | 11:07 PM
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I can just grab these from a nissan dealership? depending on price of course.????
Old Aug 20, 2009 | 11:39 PM
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What was the failure mode of the engine?
Old Aug 20, 2009 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by nismology
What was the failure mode of the engine?
Sorry, I don't understand what you are asking.
Old Aug 20, 2009 | 11:54 PM
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What exactly failed in your engine?
Old Aug 21, 2009 | 09:16 AM
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We havent pulled out the motor to see exactly what went but we found some metal shavings in the oil when we drained some out. We think we either spun a bearing or something else related to the crank.

Im thinking I weakened the lower end when I was trying to overcome the 6.5k rev limit hump with the EU and shifting at 7.5k. Then one morning the car started to knock ever so badly.
Old Aug 21, 2009 | 09:13 PM
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I just need some sort of confirmation about buying the vq35 oil pump and the valve springs...
Old Aug 21, 2009 | 10:48 PM
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Yes you can get those parts from any nissan dealer, they are OEM parts, not aftermarket.
Old Aug 21, 2009 | 11:01 PM
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Thx
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 12:09 PM
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Alright are these the correct parts?

Valve Springs: 13203-JK21A
Valve Retainers: 13209-AC700
Valve-Seat: 13205-53Y00

VQ35 Oil Pump: 150107Y000

Do the valve springs need any work done to them before installing them in the VQ30DE? Actually well all these parts be a bolt on or is there work needing to be done to make it fit?

I'm just trying to get as much information as possible before I go to the dealership.

Am I missing something?
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 01:39 PM
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You can skip the valve seats. Those are the rings that the valves actually make contact with on the head.


Without knowing how exactly the motor failed we can't make solid suggestions. Where there any pre-existing oil delivery issues beforehand? People have been revving stock 3.0's to 7200'ish RPM for years. What EXACTLY was your rev cut set to?




As you can probably tell I'm not a huge fan of throwing parts at a car and hoping for the best.

Last edited by nismology; Aug 22, 2009 at 03:35 PM.
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 06:52 PM
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I had one incident before. It was winter time...wait do I have to go further? LOL. I lost control of the car and my winter tires were as crappy as you can get. Anywho I hit a speed limit sign which broke in half went under my car and ripped my oil filter off. It also made a hole through my car. The pole stuck right through where the people in the back put there feet (in between the seats). Thank god no one was sitting back there!

The oil light came on and thats when the car was shut of by me. It was then pulled out by my friend and towed. My brother told me that there was no oil in the car when he got it. Anyways he put on a filter, fixed up the hole, and put new oil. The car was fine for 6-8 months until this happened.

My cut off on the EU was 7.4k but I did notice that on the actual cluster it would cut out near 7.5-7.6k.

Thats my story.

I also have a video of the pole which i'll post up soon.


Know... is there any modifications I have to make to have the valve springs fit in right? On dandymax's mod page he has it double shimmed.

Thx
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by OC_Nooby
I had one incident before. It was winter time...wait do I have to go further? LOL. I lost control of the car and my winter tires were as crappy as you can get. Anywho I hit a speed limit sign which broke in half went under my car and ripped my oil filter off. It also made a hole through my car. The pole stuck right through where the people in the back put there feet (in between the seats). Thank god no one was sitting back there!

The oil light came on and thats when the car was shut of by me. It was then pulled out by my friend and towed. My brother told me that there was no oil in the car when he got it. Anyways he put on a filter, fixed up the hole, and put new oil. The car was fine for 6-8 months until this happened.
So it did run for a little bit with no oil?

My cut off on the EU was 7.4k but I did notice that on the actual cluster it would cut out near 7.5-7.6k.
So 7400 is where you zero'd out all the cells? Just curious.


Know... is there any modifications I have to make to have the valve springs fit in right? On dandymax's mod page he has it double shimmed.
The valve springs drop right in. The extra valve spring seat is placed on top of the existing spring seat below the spring.


And the part # you listed is indeed the valve spring seat part #. It just said "Valve-Seat" which is a completely different part than a valve spring seat so it confused me initially.


In any case the Revup oil pump should provide a measure of protection but the motor still won't be reliable above 7500 RPM (as DandyMax found out). At that point you need to start looking into balancing the bottom end and/or the clutch/flywheel assembly.
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 07:17 PM
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Yeah, if you dont zero out the last cell on the EU it will keep revving, that is how I got to 8000+
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 09:48 PM
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Yes I did zero it out right after the 7.4k rev limit.

The car was not run when no oil was present, well I turned the car off when the oil light came on when the accident occured.

Alrights last question I guess.

When you say:

"The extra valve spring seat is placed on top of the existing spring seat below the spring."

Does that mean double shimming?

To be on the safe side ill only rev up to 7.2k.

Thx
Old Aug 25, 2009 | 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by OC_Nooby

When you say:

"The extra valve spring seat is placed on top of the existing spring seat below the spring."

Does that mean double shimming?

To be on the safe side ill only rev up to 7.2k.

Thx

Anyone?
Old Aug 25, 2009 | 10:05 AM
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Nissan 350Z VQ35DE - Dual Valve Springs (24)

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/part...Springs//10429

Would you say these are better then the HR? Cause they are cheaper then the stock vq35 ones form the dealership. Though ill still use the oem retainers and valve spring seat.

Thx
Old Aug 25, 2009 | 10:36 AM
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Better is subjective. Stiffer? Yes. Way overkill. Affirmative. You should just stick the HR springs in and call it a day, honestly. "Double shimming" isn't even necessary for your application. You can just drop the springs in and go; direct swap. You'll blow your oil pump way before your valves will float with stock cams/HR springs in there.
Old Aug 25, 2009 | 03:26 PM
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I've gone up to 7400 on numerous ocassions with that notorious 6.5k hump on Dan's old motor and I have no knocking issues what so ever. Question is how long did you stay at that RPM when you get up there?

But that 6.5 hump is annoying. Kills the flow of power. I'm still trying to trouble shoot it. Hopefully end of the month once other mods are done and I dyno tune, I'll be able to resolve that annoying issue. Glad I'm not the only one

Last edited by TDotMax; Aug 25, 2009 at 03:29 PM.
Old Aug 25, 2009 | 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by nismology
Better is subjective. Stiffer? Yes. Way overkill. Affirmative. You should just stick the HR springs in and call it a day, honestly. "Double shimming" isn't even necessary for your application. You can just drop the springs in and go; direct swap. You'll blow your oil pump way before your valves will float with stock cams/HR springs in there.
Id rather buy the stiffer ones for 1 reason..and that is id be getting them for about $40 cheaper then the dealership >_<.

I guess ill just grab the ones I linked as they will do the job for cheaper.

Thanks for all the help
Old Aug 25, 2009 | 09:03 PM
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http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat....cfm?siteid=49


Put in the valve spring part number you listed above. I see it there for $4 a pop. Comes out to $96 + shipping.
Old Aug 25, 2009 | 09:39 PM
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Wow, Thx for the site!!!

Ok while im on the role with stupid questions, I need 24 valve spings, im assuming 12 retainers and 24 valve spring seats?

Also with the oil pump I found 15010-a34001 which is an oem pump. Is this what I want or is it the rev up oil pump what I really need?

When I put the product numbers in that site it gave me a list of options for valve springs, retainers etc. I just picked the catalog oem version which was the last one on the list. Im assuming that these parts are used in other vehicals as they have the same product number but the vehicals listed where different in motor size etc..


Thank you so much for the help, as you can tell im not very mechanical inclines (brother is my mechanic).

Last edited by OC_Nooby; Aug 25, 2009 at 09:44 PM.
Old Aug 25, 2009 | 09:43 PM
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In my honest opinion there will be no benefit going with a "double shimmed" setup or going with the HR/Revup retainers (which are actually a hair heavier than stock retainers). HR springs alone will take care of ANY fear of valve float. Save your money. Now if you're throwing in cams while you're in there that's a different story.


A regular VQ35 oil pump will be more than enough but I'll suggest going with the revup pump because it is actually cheaper and has a stronger inner gear. The correct number for the pump is 15010-AC700.

Last edited by nismology; Aug 25, 2009 at 09:59 PM.
Old Aug 25, 2009 | 10:01 PM
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You can also order these parts from Dave B @ a nice price. Just tell him you're from the org.

Dave Burnette
888-254-6060
Old Aug 25, 2009 | 10:02 PM
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Alright so just get the valve spings and the oil pump you listed and settle that. I wont get the seats or retainers.

Mechanical Catalog - Nissan
Valve springs, 350z - 3.5lvq35hr 2007 - 2008 $96.00
(13203JK21A)

Mechanical Catalog - Nissan
Oil pump, 350z, w/300hp engine - 3.5lvq35de 2005 $178.54
(15010AC70A) --- (15010AC700 doesnt exist)

Guessing year doesnt matter as long as its coming from the 3.5 liter.
Old Aug 25, 2009 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by nismology
You can also order these parts from Dave B @ a nice price. Just tell him you're from the org.

Dave Burnette
888-254-6060
Ill call him tomorrow for sure, thank you very much!!!!
Old Aug 25, 2009 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by OC_Nooby
(15010AC700 doesnt exist)

Guessing year doesnt matter as long as its coming from the 3.5 liter.
It did at a certain point. Guess it was just superceded. It happens. But as long as you order that part number you're golden.
Old Aug 25, 2009 | 10:21 PM
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Again, Thanks
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