Another 3.5 swap thread
07-02-2010 | 08:31 PM
#321
I have no inspection where I live, and I have codes coming out my @$$ since I have no IACV, EVAP, or EGR. I only have the MAF, intake air temp, crank/cam sensors, TPS, and O2 sensors.
I had an issue with my 3.5 about a year ago where I couldn't get it started unless I push started it down a big hill. It ended up being a TPS issue. My ghetto TPS setup allowed the throttle to move without moving the nub on the TPS. As soon as I ghettorigged it, it started right up.
BTW, I did a DE-K swap recently and I didn't have the harness for the rear injectors seated all the way. It still started and ran down the street on 3 cylinders, albeit with almost no power. It later had a problem with the crank sensor (REF) where the wires inside the harness broke/corroded. I ended up using my multi-meter at the ECU pins to troubleshoot that. You may end up having to troubleshoot in the same way.
It's not terribly hard. Just ohm out the pins on the ECU to the corresponding pins at the sensor connector. You find out within seconds if you have a wiring issue or not.
If you do have a wiring issue, it's usually where the wires bend, esp. on the right side, where the engine harness makes a NASTY bend down, no pun intended, lol. There's a TSB on that.
I had an issue with my 3.5 about a year ago where I couldn't get it started unless I push started it down a big hill. It ended up being a TPS issue. My ghetto TPS setup allowed the throttle to move without moving the nub on the TPS. As soon as I ghettorigged it, it started right up.
BTW, I did a DE-K swap recently and I didn't have the harness for the rear injectors seated all the way. It still started and ran down the street on 3 cylinders, albeit with almost no power. It later had a problem with the crank sensor (REF) where the wires inside the harness broke/corroded. I ended up using my multi-meter at the ECU pins to troubleshoot that. You may end up having to troubleshoot in the same way.
It's not terribly hard. Just ohm out the pins on the ECU to the corresponding pins at the sensor connector. You find out within seconds if you have a wiring issue or not.
If you do have a wiring issue, it's usually where the wires bend, esp. on the right side, where the engine harness makes a NASTY bend down, no pun intended, lol. There's a TSB on that.
tomorrow im def. messing around with this TPS see what i can get out of it. i might also go ahead and check out those ECU pins while im at it and see what i come up with, because my ECU is alittle "questionable" it works fine, its just he CEL doesnt come one when its suppose too. but im going to do a lot of work tomorrow hopefully if it turns out successful. I have been running on soo much hope and it hasnt been working for me so far i hope i can change that trend
07-02-2010 | 09:27 PM
#322
LOL, kinda sounds like the country, but that's off topic.
07-03-2010 | 04:59 AM
#323
No, what he needs to do is have someone help him. There's nothing wrong with getting help and having someone look at it and troubleshoot it from a fresh perspective. Even if he has to pay someone $100 or something to diagnose it, it'd be money well-spent. ****, if I weren't on the other side of the country I'd look at it for a six pack and help a fellow orger.
not to mention any of the other multiple negative side effects this would have caused besides effing up the compression
07-03-2010 | 08:27 AM
#324
I bought a vq35 with a blown HG, and compression unknown. but I tore it down, and built it back up, and everything ran fine. Of course I could have been lucky but 3 days of work and car was successfully swapped up and running excellent.
07-03-2010 | 08:37 AM
#325
true but you can get a compression test for $25 at harbor freight and test it in 36 minutes... Honnestly there is no excuse at this point.
I bought a vq35 with a blown HG, and compression unknown. but I tore it down, and built it back up, and everything ran fine. Of course I could have been lucky but 3 days of work and car was successfully swapped up and running excellent.
I bought a vq35 with a blown HG, and compression unknown. but I tore it down, and built it back up, and everything ran fine. Of course I could have been lucky but 3 days of work and car was successfully swapped up and running excellent.
07-05-2010 | 05:33 PM
#327
Well i went outside today and start messing with the car and to my surprise its starting everytime i tried 5 times it started on the first crank. As far as what i did was play around with my cam/crank position sensor(yes they were plugged in before), and its starting now. i will keep u posted im going to try again tomorrow and see what happens.
07-08-2010 | 08:41 AM
#329
looks like everything is going good, i was adjusting idle when a coolant hose blew off, i will be fixing that then driving the car to see how it feels. fuel pressure is at 35psi i might drop it some more but it should be fine there.
07-08-2010 | 09:07 AM
#330
Basically our cars go into failsafe when overheating. My engine didn't blow a head gasket and was fine once I put water in it. I also found out that if you have a stick shift, you can do a short and light burst of acceleration, then turn off the ignition and open the throttle all the way and coast for a while. Wash, rinse, repeat. Doing that, can keep it from overheating too bad in a pinch.
As for fuel pressure, it's better to have a higher fuel pressure and then use something like an SAFC to reduce the injector pulse. You get better atomization with higher fuel pressures. The side benefit is advanced ignition timing as well.
Last edited by Weimar Ben; 07-08-2010 at 09:16 AM.
07-08-2010 | 09:12 AM
#331
Those spring clamps are crap. Get a real clamp, preferably one of those that screws on without a screwdriver. You're lucky it came off when you were there to catch it instead of it coming off in the middle of nowhere. I had one blow off 10 miles from anywhere. All of the sudden, I'm driving and lost all power. Then at 50mph (2000rpm in first gear) it got power again, and then quickly cut fuel again. Took me a couple of minutes to figure out what was going on, and then I noticed my temp gauge was on max hot.
Basically our cars go into failsafe when overheating. My engine didn't blow a head gasket and was fine once I put water in it. I also found out that if you have a stick shift, you can do a short and light burst of acceleration, then turn off the ignition and open the throttle all the way and coast for a while. Wash, rinse, repeat. Doing that, can keep it from overheating too bad in a pinch.
Basically our cars go into failsafe when overheating. My engine didn't blow a head gasket and was fine once I put water in it. I also found out that if you have a stick shift, you can do a short and light burst of acceleration, then turn off the ignition and open the throttle all the way and coast for a while. Wash, rinse, repeat. Doing that, can keep it from overheating too bad in a pinch.
07-08-2010 | 09:20 AM
#332
Those spring clamps are crap. Get a real clamp, preferably one of those that screws on without a screwdriver. You're lucky it came off when you were there to catch it instead of it coming off in the middle of nowhere. I had one blow off 10 miles from anywhere. All of the sudden, I'm driving and lost all power. Then at 50mph (2000rpm in first gear) it got power again, and then quickly cut fuel again. Took me a couple of minutes to figure out what was going on, and then I noticed my temp gauge was on max hot.
Basically our cars go into failsafe when overheating. My engine didn't blow a head gasket and was fine once I put water in it. I also found out that if you have a stick shift, you can do a short and light burst of acceleration, then turn off the ignition and open the throttle all the way and coast for a while. Wash, rinse, repeat. Doing that, can keep it from overheating too bad in a pinch.
As for fuel pressure, it's better to have a higher fuel pressure and then use something like an SAFC to reduce the injector pulse. You get better atomization with higher fuel pressures. The side benefit is advanced ignition timing as well.
Basically our cars go into failsafe when overheating. My engine didn't blow a head gasket and was fine once I put water in it. I also found out that if you have a stick shift, you can do a short and light burst of acceleration, then turn off the ignition and open the throttle all the way and coast for a while. Wash, rinse, repeat. Doing that, can keep it from overheating too bad in a pinch.
As for fuel pressure, it's better to have a higher fuel pressure and then use something like an SAFC to reduce the injector pulse. You get better atomization with higher fuel pressures. The side benefit is advanced ignition timing as well.
its the gayest hose that blew too, u know at the rear of the engine pay where there are those too hoses and one of them has like a little plastic connector? that connector must have been weakened from earlier because it broke of and sprayed coolant everywhere.
but i lowered fuel pressure primarily for the AFRs i dont want to run pig rich, once i get a S/VAFC or emanage, i will bring it back up to stock levels.
Last edited by Crusher103; 07-08-2010 at 09:23 AM.
07-08-2010 | 10:44 AM
#333
You can ghetto rig it to use CC. I did and it's worked fine for years. It requires a small drill bit and some paper clips or cotter pins to keep the cables in the groove and from falling out. I've been using it for years.
07-08-2010 | 10:46 AM
#334
Like bigles said u sure about those gears
its the gayest hose that blew too, u know at the rear of the engine pay where there are those too hoses and one of them has like a little plastic connector? that connector must have been weakened from earlier because it broke of and sprayed coolant everywhere.
but i lowered fuel pressure primarily for the AFRs i dont want to run pig rich, once i get a S/VAFC or emanage, i will bring it back up to stock levels.
its the gayest hose that blew too, u know at the rear of the engine pay where there are those too hoses and one of them has like a little plastic connector? that connector must have been weakened from earlier because it broke of and sprayed coolant everywhere.
but i lowered fuel pressure primarily for the AFRs i dont want to run pig rich, once i get a S/VAFC or emanage, i will bring it back up to stock levels.
The hose clamp that came off for me was the lower radiator hose clamp.
Last edited by Weimar Ben; 07-08-2010 at 10:52 AM.
07-08-2010 | 10:53 AM
#335
im just remembering Grants numbers he was in the 10s for his AFRs at stock fuel pressure. if im in teh 12s then im str8.
07-08-2010 | 10:55 AM
#336
07-09-2010 | 07:52 AM
#337
I think this is just because the car is low on gas but its running rough, again. lost of crackles and pops coming out of the exhuast. I just got done working on it because now i am completely out of gas.
but i had lowered the fuel pressure to 32-30psi, and as soon as i connected the vac line it dropped to 25 so i probably have to raise that back to where it was before.
but i had lowered the fuel pressure to 32-30psi, and as soon as i connected the vac line it dropped to 25 so i probably have to raise that back to where it was before.
07-09-2010 | 07:57 AM
#338
it was completely torqueless aswell, it struggled to move a couple of feet, it didnt want to rev aswell. im thinking just low on gas, because the 3.0 use to break up and act all sorts of weird when it was low on gas.
07-09-2010 | 08:21 AM
#339
Think it is sucking air when it gets low?
07-09-2010 | 10:48 AM
#342
07-09-2010 | 01:28 PM
#344
k got fuel pressure set its feeling pretty good now, found one more vac leak at teh TB so im going to take care of that and see how it feels on the road, its just about complete.
07-09-2010 | 03:16 PM
#347
I'll be there tomorrow from 5pm until whenever I get beat or win in the finals. The two qualifying rounds are at 6pm and 7:30pm. Eliminations start at 9pm.
Be sure to print out the flyer to get $5 off admission.
07-09-2010 | 03:17 PM
#348
To bad I have an unexplainable fuel pressure issue, or i would head out there tomorrow.
Ever since I tried putting in 370's, unsuccessfully, my FPR doesn't seem to be working properly anymore. Damn O-rings kept tearing even with oil and uber slow tightening of the caps (half a turn on each side till seated). Now it doesn't build pressure under boost and the longer i drive the car, the more the pressure drops. I have it dialed in for ~50psi now before I go on long trips (2hrs or more) and when I get there the pressure has dropped to nearly 30 or less...
Guess I need to get my 3.5 done and in.
Ever since I tried putting in 370's, unsuccessfully, my FPR doesn't seem to be working properly anymore. Damn O-rings kept tearing even with oil and uber slow tightening of the caps (half a turn on each side till seated). Now it doesn't build pressure under boost and the longer i drive the car, the more the pressure drops. I have it dialed in for ~50psi now before I go on long trips (2hrs or more) and when I get there the pressure has dropped to nearly 30 or less...
Guess I need to get my 3.5 done and in.
07-09-2010 | 04:06 PM
#349
To bad I have an unexplainable fuel pressure issue, or i would head out there tomorrow.
Ever since I tried putting in 370's, unsuccessfully, my FPR doesn't seem to be working properly anymore. Damn O-rings kept tearing even with oil and uber slow tightening of the caps (half a turn on each side till seated). Now it doesn't build pressure under boost and the longer i drive the car, the more the pressure drops. I have it dialed in for ~50psi now before I go on long trips (2hrs or more) and when I get there the pressure has dropped to nearly 30 or less...
Guess I need to get my 3.5 done and in.
Ever since I tried putting in 370's, unsuccessfully, my FPR doesn't seem to be working properly anymore. Damn O-rings kept tearing even with oil and uber slow tightening of the caps (half a turn on each side till seated). Now it doesn't build pressure under boost and the longer i drive the car, the more the pressure drops. I have it dialed in for ~50psi now before I go on long trips (2hrs or more) and when I get there the pressure has dropped to nearly 30 or less...
Guess I need to get my 3.5 done and in.
yes you do...
07-09-2010 | 04:52 PM
#350
wish it was as simple as that. I have a 1 month internship starting Monday back in my home town. I have access to a garage, but I don't have the funds to get everything done right now, plus the cost of transporting the swap stuff here and back if necessary. I have about $500 worth of parts I still need to get (PF TB, TB adapter, '02-'03 fuel rail [so i don't have to buy a new FPR and FMU], fluids, and miscellaneous crap). Also considering the OBX V2 headers since they're back on the market; obviously this is the easiest opportunity to bolt them up...
Oh, did i mention the internship is unpaid?
Oh, did i mention the internship is unpaid?
07-09-2010 | 11:39 PM
#354
07-10-2010 | 07:42 AM
#355
k back to the drawing board, the car now has gas in it again, and is back to being difficult to start. Something just isnt adding up. When its sitting on E its very easy to start when their is some gas in the tank it doesnt want to start.
i just drove it, torque is there but it hesitates at 4000 then pulls, in the low RPM ranges(just below 1000) forget about torque. so something is up. (i dont think thats the fault of the SSIM)
Intake is stupidly loud thou when i drove the car i though i had a leak in my headgasket. when i got out of the car and listened it was def. coming from the intake.
Last edited by Crusher103; 07-10-2010 at 07:46 AM.
07-10-2010 | 07:47 AM
#358
07-10-2010 | 07:48 AM
#359
07-10-2010 | 08:54 AM
#360
just they live 15mins away from me thats the thing.
k back to the drawing board, the car now has gas in it again, and is back to being difficult to start. Something just isnt adding up. When its sitting on E its very easy to start when their is some gas in the tank it doesnt want to start.
i just drove it, torque is there but it hesitates at 4000 then pulls, in the low RPM ranges(just below 1000) forget about torque. so something is up. (i dont think thats the fault of the SSIM)
Intake is stupidly loud thou when i drove the car i though i had a leak in my headgasket. when i got out of the car and listened it was def. coming from the intake.
k back to the drawing board, the car now has gas in it again, and is back to being difficult to start. Something just isnt adding up. When its sitting on E its very easy to start when their is some gas in the tank it doesnt want to start.
i just drove it, torque is there but it hesitates at 4000 then pulls, in the low RPM ranges(just below 1000) forget about torque. so something is up. (i dont think thats the fault of the SSIM)
Intake is stupidly loud thou when i drove the car i though i had a leak in my headgasket. when i got out of the car and listened it was def. coming from the intake.
A leaking head gasket won't make the intake loud. Are you thinking intake manifold gasket?