Its about damn time.

I dont know why you would think the engine would run correctly if the computer is getting a bad timing signal.

 

check for vaccum leaks

 

Plus one!

 

This thing done yet?

 

when we got the trans off yesterday it started raining, im putting on my work clothes right now to get it done.

 

 

had a little trouble getting my trans back on and been taking my time with it to be honest but i got it back on last week, and today tried starting it, its still very difficult to start. i want to say its my fuel pressure regulator because fuel pressure is at 40psi when the pump is primed, and i know from before once the car starts to turn over it jumps to about 58psi, the timing ring spark plugs and oil have been changed, re-torqued the intake manifold.

any other things?

 

grant says you're a b1tch...

On a side note, why haven't you done what i told you to do with your fuel setup... I'm pretty sure Grant told you what we did to his and his is running like a champ (aside from the cold start issue soon to be addressed).

Oh, btw, my $500 13k mile motor is almost ready to go in. I'm betting I'll do two 3.5 swaps before you finish yours...

 

love you crusher, call me if you need some insight or help... might come by your place tomorrow if you're available from like 10 till like 11:30 if you want me too look at it and see if i can help you out

 

im up for suggestions. I think this cheap FPR is to blame for most of my problems. i might have to just put some money together and buy a decent one.

 

People told you MONTHS AGO to get rid of the POS ebay FPR and go stock.

Regardless, it should still start and run ok even with the POS ebay FPR. Combustion can occur over a fairly large range of AFR-8:1 to 20:1. An engine needs to be around 10:1 to start and during idle especially cold idle.

 

i have a stock one, i had to modify the holes for the screws to get it to fit, but that didnt work for me, i didnt even get a cough from it. i can see if i can find another one maybe this one is just faulty.

im thinking about just spending the money and getting an aeromotive FPR, NCSU_MAX has one in his car and it start flawlessly.

 

Get the Nismo FPR, it won't have diaphragm problems like the Aeromotive.

 

I got it to start once and it ran ok there were no rattles or vibrations. But i think the cylinders are just flooded on start up, when i pulled the plugs, fuel is just dripping off of them.

btw i got new spark plugs.

 

i'll check those out.

 

yea bud id grab a new fpr. we accidently switched the vacuum lines when we first put it in and it didnt start up at all obviously but after that its been great.

 

Sounds like you have the FPR in backwards or in the wrong place. You know, it's really easy to test if you're getting fuel in the rail or if the cylinders are getting fuel???

Most people have the stock FPR and it starts and runs flawlessly, including myself.

 

im pretty sure the FPR is in the right way, if its in backwards i dont get a reading for fuel pressure. I'll try the stock FPR again.

 

If it is in backwards or in the wrong location you can get a reading for fuel pressure, depending on how and where you're measuring it.

 

I can give the other way around a shot but i have done that before with no results.

 

LOL, again it's EASY to test whether the fuel rail is getting fuel and if fuel is getting into the cylinders. I'll let you figure out how to do it.

Remember, an engine needs fuel, compression, and spark. Which are you missing? Do you remember how to test for all three?

Or you could just let the car sit again for another month before you change the anti-freeze thinking that it could be preventing your car from starting.

 

at Weimar Ben...



check that ground I told you about too Crusher....

 

didnt i just say teh plugs were dripping wet with fuel when i pull them with the current set up?

the last time i tried the stock setup when i pulled the regulator off AFTER trying to start the car not a drop was in the fuel rail. What it seems to be is too much fuel, spark and compression.

 

no dice with the grounds i have an aftermarket grounding kit aswell.

 

OK, my bad. I didn't see your post about spark plugs being dripping wet. There's no such thing as too much spark or too much compression. Did you even check either?

 

compression is the only think i havent checked. if thats soo low the motor cant start then i think this motor is a waste.

 

Im over in your neck of the woods today. Going to be leaving central at around 1ish if you want me and Grant to stop by on our way back to Raleigh and check it out.

 

cool, u can drop by. tell Grant to wash his neck first thou

 

bish just come get this 3.0 outta mah garage and get to work

 

it started today, but after alot of fuss. I got the fuel pressure down some more its now sitting at 30 psi on start up. my rev limiter found itself. but it still just takes to long to start the car, it was doing alot of coughing then eventually fired to life. Grounds are fine i know that for a fact, the fuel is where its suppose to be and still im having trouble getting the thing started. its taking about 20mins to get it started once. And then getting it started afterwords is next to impossible.

maybe it is my 3.5, i may not know everything about everything but i know the work i put in is solid. what im thinking about doing is taking the 3.5 out and just rebuilding it, from the ground up, going to the machine shop and having the heads and block inspected and reworked if needed, getting new injectors&coilpacks and trying this 3.5 thing again in the winter. In the mean time its 3.0 pimpin because i have a trip to NYC coming up and i dont thing this 3.5 will make it.

unless somebody else can think of something to get this thing starting and running consistently.

 

last thing im def. going to try is getting another FPR, and seeing how that works out. If i get the same results then, oh well.

 

dont bother trying to get your current 3.5 looked at man... theyre a dime a dozen. Youre going to spend more having a shop inspect and potentially fix yours than just buying another one... hell you only paid 150 for it in the first place. I think you should save yourself the headache, just get another one, do a quick swap over and drop it in. just my .02.

 

How's your TPS? Did you calibrate it? I bet that you didn't. If it's not plugged in, not working, or not calibrated right, it can be near impossible to start. I think I've said this before. It's not terribly hard to do, but you must have a multimeter and it does take a bit of gingerly tinkering to get it spot on at 500 ohms.

"Rebuilding it from the ground up" without knowing what's wrong is like throwing the baby out with the bath water. At this point, you don't know if the problem is mechanical or an engine control (electrical) issue. You haven't done enough troubleshooting to determine that. If your compression is good, parts are being lubed, coolant is not mixing with oil, and the valves are opening and closing at the right time, then mechanically your engine is fine.

There's also a very easy way to test injectors and coil packs. Even if you had one coil pack or injector that was bad, it should still start and run. ****, these motors can idle on just two cylinders and run on one cylinder with enough throttle.

 

No, what he needs to do is have someone help him. There's nothing wrong with getting help and having someone look at it and troubleshoot it from a fresh perspective. Even if he has to pay someone $100 or something to diagnose it, it'd be money well-spent. ****, if I weren't on the other side of the country I'd look at it for a six pack and help a fellow orger.

 

the thing that is becoming more and more discouraging about this motor is NCSU_MAX lives about 20 mins away from me, started after me and got his 3.5 swap done in about 2 weeks, and that was with me dropping by giving him a hand and i cant see anything he did much different from what i have. He can walk outside and fire up his car right now. Mine on the other hand.....well.....LOL. I can walk outside....and i can walk outside.

But anyway besides that, What do you think at this point. Im just trying to get to the bottom of this because im alittle tired obviously of failed attempts. im going to re-do my TPS. I dont have an IACV currently but from what i understand its not necessary. i got the fuel pressure down

i just texted my friend he has a compression testing kit, so im going to get to the bottom of this find out if it real is this motor. Before i started this swap when the 3.0 was in it took it about 2 tries cranking it, sometimes 3 to get it to start but it always started so i noticed that but didnt pay it much attention.

 

lmao i always offer beer and pizza to come help.

 

IACV is completely unnecessary. I've had the swap for 4 years now and never used it. I set the idle speed at 1000rpm and it starts like a dream. If it's cold outside, I have to give it gas for 5-10 sec., then it idles on its own.

FYI, most parts stores loan compression testers.

Fuel pressure isn't terribly important, within reason. Once closed loop starts, the ECU can add or sub. fuel up to 25%. We have heated O2 sensors, so feedback happens fairly quickly, usually less than a minute.

 

Gotcha. im going to do the TPS tomorrow. and check out the compression testers tomorrow.


just curious do u throw any codes for ur IACV? or did u just hook it up and let it dangle? for inspection purposes.

 

my friend also suggested lowering the gap on my spark plugs for a bit more of a stronger spark.

 

I have no inspection where I live, and I have codes coming out my @$$ since I have no IACV, EVAP, or EGR. I only have the MAF, intake air temp, crank/cam sensors, TPS, and O2 sensors.

I had an issue with my 3.5 about a year ago where I couldn't get it started unless I push started it down a big hill. It ended up being a TPS issue. My ghetto TPS setup allowed the throttle to move without moving the nub on the TPS. As soon as I ghettorigged it, it started right up.

BTW, I did a DE-K swap recently and I didn't have the harness for the rear injectors seated all the way. It still started and ran down the street on 3 cylinders, albeit with almost no power. It later had a problem with the crank sensor (REF) where the wires inside the harness broke/corroded. I ended up using my multi-meter at the ECU pins to troubleshoot that. You may end up having to troubleshoot in the same way.

It's not terribly hard. Just ohm out the pins on the ECU to the corresponding pins at the sensor connector. You find out within seconds if you have a wiring issue or not.

If you do have a wiring issue, it's usually where the wires bend, esp. on the right side, where the engine harness makes a NASTY bend down, no pun intended, lol. There's a TSB on that.