1st Fully Built 5.5Gen - NA
04-19-2010, 05:27 PM
#42
I cant wait to see the people's faces at the track when you pop the hood and they think just a simple bolt on vq35 ...ahahhhahahaha
what size willwoods, or does that not affect rim choice when you want drag radials so you can actually hook.
what size willwoods, or does that not affect rim choice when you want drag radials so you can actually hook.
04-19-2010, 05:39 PM
#43
Play with my balls
Thread Starter
iTrader: (151)
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 6,542
They're 4 piston calipers. They're pretty stout, and I think the lowest track wheel I can go with these are 18's. Which I'm in search for. I love the track, but I run autocross as well, which the 18's should suit me fine. I'd really like to do a road course now.
04-19-2010, 05:39 PM
#44
I guess the time has come for me to post this thread. The only thing I'm waiting on at the moment is for the new Wilwood calipers to come in so I have some brakes to stop this thing. Will start her up for the first time with the new motor as soon as that happens this week or early next week. I was hoping to start her this past Thursday, but the brake bleeding issue prevented that from happening.
I built this motor in my garage along with major assistance from SR20DEN (Matt - The VQ Wizard) since January. Should have been done in February, but got held up at the machine shop who was hand porting my heads.
The only thing left out of the equation on initial startup is the Deatschwerks 380cc Injectors, 3" Maf, and Utec Tuning. Will start it up and break-in the motor with the stock ecu and run her for about 1500 miles initially. I will then go to the dyno and tune her and add the above items. Will probably be dynoing the 350z/G Revup and Non-Revup manifold during this time as well to see what gains could be had.
There will be a few videos in different stages that I'll be posting up, so stay tuned in this thread. I have a stash of photos through this 5 month build so just ask if you'd like to see anything in particular.
So my goal for this build is to push as much power as I can out of the stock block, Naturally Aspirated. No rules involved here except for using a VQ35DE stock block (same one that comes in the car) and no Forced Induction....ie, Supercharger, Turbo, or Nitrous. If I break 300+ whp All Motor, I'll be a happy camper. On to the goodies.......
Wiseco 11.0:1 CR Pistons (.020 over stock)
Eagle Rods w/ARP Rod Bolts
Brian Crower 264/264 Cams
VQ35HR Valvesprings and Retainers
Double Shimmed Valvespring Seats
5 Angle Serdi Valvejob
Ported and Polished Heads
Heads Decked
Fully Blueprint and Balance
Polished and Balanced Crank Independently
Balance as Rotating Assembly to 10k RPMS
OEM Main Crank Bearings
ACL Race Rod Bearings
HR Headbolts
HR Headgaskets
Deatschwerks 380cc Injectors
Samco Hoses
UTEC w/Map Selector
TurboXS Tuner Wideband
Defi-Link Controller II
Defi BF White Imperial Water Temp Gauge
Defi BF White Imperial Oil Temp Gauge
Defi BF White Imperial Oil Pressure Gauge
2 Step WOT Launch Control/No Lift Shift Module
Walbro 190lph Fuel Pump
Extended Rev Limiter to 8k RPM's
Ralco RZ Lightweight Crank Pulley (Standard Size)
SPEC Stage II Clutch
Fidanza Lightweight Flywheel
NGK 1 Step Colder Plugs
HKS DLI II Twin Power Ignition
3" MAF Housing
Ported Upper Intake Manifold
Port matched Upper and Lower Intake Manifold
NWP Manifold Spacers
Cattman Gen 3 Headers
Cattman Fastcat
Cattman 3" Catback Exhaust
350z Thermostat in Maxima Housing
Koyo Radiator
VQ35DE Revup Oil Pump
6th Gen Maxima 6-speed Transmission HLSD
4.133 Final Drive Gear Ratio
Greddy Oil Filter Sensor Adapter
HKS Oil Filler Cap
HKS Radiator Cap 1.1Bar (Stock 0.9Bar)
Energy Suspension Poly Urethane Motor Mounts
Energy Suspension Poly Urethane Control Arm Bushings
Energy Suspension Poly Urethane Shifter Bushings
Energy Suspension Poly Urethane Sway Bar Bushings
Ported - Painted - Portmatched Intake Manifold
I built this motor in my garage along with major assistance from SR20DEN (Matt - The VQ Wizard) since January. Should have been done in February, but got held up at the machine shop who was hand porting my heads.
The only thing left out of the equation on initial startup is the Deatschwerks 380cc Injectors, 3" Maf, and Utec Tuning. Will start it up and break-in the motor with the stock ecu and run her for about 1500 miles initially. I will then go to the dyno and tune her and add the above items. Will probably be dynoing the 350z/G Revup and Non-Revup manifold during this time as well to see what gains could be had.
There will be a few videos in different stages that I'll be posting up, so stay tuned in this thread. I have a stash of photos through this 5 month build so just ask if you'd like to see anything in particular.
So my goal for this build is to push as much power as I can out of the stock block, Naturally Aspirated. No rules involved here except for using a VQ35DE stock block (same one that comes in the car) and no Forced Induction....ie, Supercharger, Turbo, or Nitrous. If I break 300+ whp All Motor, I'll be a happy camper. On to the goodies.......
Wiseco 11.0:1 CR Pistons (.020 over stock)
Eagle Rods w/ARP Rod Bolts
Brian Crower 264/264 Cams
VQ35HR Valvesprings and Retainers
Double Shimmed Valvespring Seats
5 Angle Serdi Valvejob
Ported and Polished Heads
Heads Decked
Fully Blueprint and Balance
Polished and Balanced Crank Independently
Balance as Rotating Assembly to 10k RPMS
OEM Main Crank Bearings
ACL Race Rod Bearings
HR Headbolts
HR Headgaskets
Deatschwerks 380cc Injectors
Samco Hoses
UTEC w/Map Selector
TurboXS Tuner Wideband
Defi-Link Controller II
Defi BF White Imperial Water Temp Gauge
Defi BF White Imperial Oil Temp Gauge
Defi BF White Imperial Oil Pressure Gauge
2 Step WOT Launch Control/No Lift Shift Module
Walbro 190lph Fuel Pump
Extended Rev Limiter to 8k RPM's
Ralco RZ Lightweight Crank Pulley (Standard Size)
SPEC Stage II Clutch
Fidanza Lightweight Flywheel
NGK 1 Step Colder Plugs
HKS DLI II Twin Power Ignition
3" MAF Housing
Ported Upper Intake Manifold
Port matched Upper and Lower Intake Manifold
NWP Manifold Spacers
Cattman Gen 3 Headers
Cattman Fastcat
Cattman 3" Catback Exhaust
350z Thermostat in Maxima Housing
Koyo Radiator
VQ35DE Revup Oil Pump
6th Gen Maxima 6-speed Transmission HLSD
4.133 Final Drive Gear Ratio
Greddy Oil Filter Sensor Adapter
HKS Oil Filler Cap
HKS Radiator Cap 1.1Bar (Stock 0.9Bar)
Energy Suspension Poly Urethane Motor Mounts
Energy Suspension Poly Urethane Control Arm Bushings
Energy Suspension Poly Urethane Shifter Bushings
Energy Suspension Poly Urethane Sway Bar Bushings
Ported - Painted - Portmatched Intake Manifold
I love the motor...The black UIM looks freaking sweet!!!
You've got a lot of money invested in this thing. Time to make her scream!!!
04-19-2010, 06:25 PM
#45
I don't blame you, I plan on getting the car tuned on some nice gas as well, I have always had the best luck around 32-33 degrees of timing up top, best of luck and I am looking forward to the numbers!
04-19-2010, 07:42 PM
#47
Play with my balls
Thread Starter
iTrader: (151)
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 6,542
Well, this started out to be a budget build and it's gone a little past that, but I'll see what I have when everything gets finalized prior to going to ITBs. Too early to say what the future holds.
Good luck on your build!
04-20-2010, 03:38 AM
#53
Looks good so far. I like the fact that you waited till you have a mostly finished build before you posted anything. Makin moves man.
Any specific reason as to why you're keeping the vacum canister there? Also, that NWP block off plate in gloss black would look sick with the IM.
Any specific reason as to why you're keeping the vacum canister there? Also, that NWP block off plate in gloss black would look sick with the IM.
04-20-2010, 06:05 AM
#56
Play with my balls
Thread Starter
iTrader: (151)
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 6,542
I have Water Temp, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure. TurboXS wideband mounted in the glove, and I didn't take a pic of it, but my map selector is in the coin holder spot right by the shifter. It fit perfect. I still have an Apex-i iMoni as well to monitor RPM when I bump the rev limiter. Can not stand an aftermarket Tach unless it was the same as the Defi in model and size, but they didn't offer one.
Thanks man, I didn't want to put myself in a position in starting a progress thread that took a long time to complete or never finish. I wanted to wait till I actually started her up, but I'm not patient like that. ha
This is my 1st build ever, and it would be easier to diagnose if everything stock was on and I had any issues or threw any codes. Another reason why I'm not doing the injectors, maf, and utec maps until I break her in. I will introduce these into the picture one at a time during the dyno session. I'm just making sure she works well as a built block first on the stock ecu before I fubared something up. To answer your question, I'm going to remove the canister as soon as I know she's running right.
Aaron did an excellent job on the block plate, and I like the rawness of it. The finish adds some contrast to my already all black everything else. lol
Looks good so far. I like the fact that you waited till you have a mostly finished build before you posted anything. Makin moves man.
Any specific reason as to why you're keeping the vacum canister there? Also, that NWP block off plate in gloss black would look sick with the IM.
Any specific reason as to why you're keeping the vacum canister there? Also, that NWP block off plate in gloss black would look sick with the IM.
This is my 1st build ever, and it would be easier to diagnose if everything stock was on and I had any issues or threw any codes. Another reason why I'm not doing the injectors, maf, and utec maps until I break her in. I will introduce these into the picture one at a time during the dyno session. I'm just making sure she works well as a built block first on the stock ecu before I fubared something up. To answer your question, I'm going to remove the canister as soon as I know she's running right.
Aaron did an excellent job on the block plate, and I like the rawness of it. The finish adds some contrast to my already all black everything else. lol
Last edited by Deckdout2; 04-20-2010 at 06:12 AM.
04-20-2010, 07:28 AM
#59
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sagamore Beach, MA
Posts: 694
Cannot wait to see dyno numbers on your beast!!
04-20-2010, 03:40 PM
#66
SWEEt Mother MARy FRanciS!!!
this is now my official fwapping thread....
thanks for the pics and and advice, my build will start soon, i am actually collecting the smaller stuff now. (*cough... i now have your LC-1 wideband and XD-1 gauge that you sold..)
this is now my official fwapping thread....
thanks for the pics and and advice, my build will start soon, i am actually collecting the smaller stuff now. (*cough... i now have your LC-1 wideband and XD-1 gauge that you sold..)
04-20-2010, 03:48 PM
#67
why not do what sparks did and run a custom 3" Y just to squeeze as much as you can out of it???... i hate jumping the gun and jinxing things but i must say this is by far the best build for the 5.5... wish you the best bro
04-21-2010, 06:08 AM
#70
04-21-2010, 07:01 AM
#72
I think he's already doing that ...
He's got all the talent he needs ..
All the others
04-21-2010, 10:35 AM
#75
Play with my balls
Thread Starter
iTrader: (151)
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 6,542
I appreciate all the props guys! I assure you I'm well aware of the many directions I could have gone with this build, and after over a year of researching and changing things up along the way, I feel like this is the right path for me and my goals. Thanks again, and I will make haste on those dyno numbers!
04-21-2010, 04:20 PM
#77
Great build! i cant wait to see what she puts down. do you have a target a/f ratio that your looking for? i think you'll make well over 300whp with the right tuning.
looks like i have some work to do.....
looks like i have some work to do.....
