So.... Why do some 3.5 swappers ground the knock sensor to the battery? Does the 3.5 give out too much false knock that the 3.0 ECU does not like?

 

I'd like to know this also. We've been running a resistor since we did our swap and just recently decided to hookup a real one.

 

Like kevlo mentioned to me, perhaps its because most dont actually torque them down to spec and get unwanted timing retard. I am experiencing unnecessary retard, so im going to try to torque it properly at 15lb (as per fsm). If ECU still retarding after that I am just going to bypass it with resistor and let the J&S do its job.

 

This ...


nismology would be proud.

 

lol thats a perfect FSM trivia question for mike lol

 

I am running both a ks on the motor and grounded to the car. I use the motor ks for DD action and the chassis ks for track. I have noticed that when I shift really hard the shock from banging gears and sometime wheelhop makes the ks pulling timing and when I switch it to the chassis it doesn't happen anymore.

But for normal driving the ks on the motor works just fine and doesn't pull any timing

 

interesting..need to check how my car is hooked up, Streetz you remember if mines is hooked up like oem or grounded? you never sent me the link to the website where i can get the logging software and the obd 2 - usb cable

 

Hey Manny. When the f*#$ did the NmexMAX happen?!! LOL



streetz: I think converting it to in-lb and using a 3/8 torque wrench would be a better option since click-type torque wrenches are really inaccurate at the lower end of their spec. I have one if you want to borrow it.

 

if you paid attn to the mod forum you would know

 

LOL true


Sup mang?

 

W0rd, forgot bout this thread lol. I just went ahead and put a resistor on the KS at the ECU, then leaving the line going to the J&S.

alvaro I dont think your KS was grounded, was hooked up like stock but I didnt really pay attention to that.

 

streetz you have a partnumber on that resistor ?? where to buy..text me or whatever when you get a min

 

470k ohm resistor, radioshack..

 

Aj have you noticed a loss in power with the resitor vs a normal operating sensor?

 

YES!!!!!!!!!! I got my full timing back!!! oh yea! I think the engine produces too much false knock possibly from the loose pistons.

 

like kev said, radioshack: 271-1133

 

sweet bet it runs better now...you placed the resistor inbtwn the sensor and the ecu? thanks for the part number ima pick one up, you know what wire on the ecu it is? or did you just take off the manifold and place it right after the sensor?

 

Damn nigg what you doing up so late lol

All you gotta do is unplug the KS, and the plug that goes to the ECU put one leg of the resistor in each hole of the plug.

Yeah car felt awesome now, since i removed the MAF its been a little tricky to tune, so my first 3rd gear full WOT run was all 14.7 across the board to 6k rpm at 11psi LOL, hope i didnt break anything, doubt it. now i got it down to 11's. car feels great with full timing.

 

How does the resistor work for DD? I have mine grounded to battery, but haven't driven it much since first drive (back in garage with new suspension and PFTB). Can install the resistor at the connector that plugs into the ks? electrically, this is no different i suppose other than the line length resistance. As long and the ecu sees 470K across those inputs?

 

correct

 

I installed a resistor in the plug and am still getting the error code... however power has returned... Weird? I'm gonna put a new harness on after I get back to my car. Does the KS just ave to be anywhere on the block? Can I relocate it to some other bolt while maintaining functionability, without having to remove the IM to get to it?

 

Reset the ecu.

 

yup,resetting might work

 

This is good info

 

+1