cardana24's 3.5 swap
09-15-2010, 07:02 AM
#81
Okay. So when doing the enlarging for the HR head gaskets, do you do the mod to both sides of the block? I did not see any mention of this, but I see that from the water pump there is a passage that goes up to either side of the engine? So do I enlarge both sides.
Also, I bought a rev up oil pump....I am guessing I cannot use this because of the timing chain difference. Is everyone that is doing the hybrid swap just running the vq30 oil pump? Do I have any options on the oil pump?
Also, I bought a rev up oil pump....I am guessing I cannot use this because of the timing chain difference. Is everyone that is doing the hybrid swap just running the vq30 oil pump? Do I have any options on the oil pump?
I used a new Revup oil pump - it fits right in there. I soaked mine in oil for a few days.
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09-15-2010, 07:18 AM
#82
oh, okay. I will keep the rev up pump then. I did not know you could just swap the sprockets. Any special tool to take the sprockets off (I know this may be a stupid question but I am not close to my engine)?
09-15-2010, 07:24 AM
#83
? The sprocket sits on the crank, and it just slides off. Hummm.. which sprockets are you talking about? Just the crank sprocket?
09-15-2010, 07:36 AM
#84
. Yes I am just talking about the crank sprocket.
09-15-2010, 12:24 PM
#86
The water pump needs to be a stock 3.0 part so the chains work, but you can use 350Z thermostats or a Mishimoto 62*C thermostat(my choice). You just gotta block off the pipe for the oil cooler. I put a bolt in the pipe and soldered it in place with a propane torch and acid core solder.
09-15-2010, 12:39 PM
#87
The water pump needs to be a stock 3.0 part so the chains work, but you can use 350Z thermostats or a Mishimoto 62*C thermostat(my choice). You just gotta block off the pipe for the oil cooler. I put a bolt in the pipe and soldered it in place with a propane torch and acid core solder.
09-15-2010, 02:19 PM
#88
It bolts right onto the 3.5 block - the FWD and RWD blocks take the same one. You just need to block that extra water hose outlet. I picked the cooler thermostat because - well, it's cooler.
09-16-2010, 05:50 PM
#90
I was able to enlarge the H20 passages tonight, and I started putting the heads back together. I put all of the valve stem seals on and I started checking my valve springs, they all have green paint marks on them. I am looking at the fsm for the 2006 maxima and it says that the valve springs have different paint marks on them for the intake and exhaust springs. Blue for intake and White for exhaust. What gives? I am going to google to see what I can find out, but I was hoping someone would know here.
09-17-2010, 06:13 AM
#91
I called my parts guy and the valve springs are the same for the exhaust and intake. What about the valve locks? Do I need new ones when using the HR springs, or should I just re use my old ones? I did not order new ones with my initial parts order, so I am wondering what you guys have done in the past.
Here is the part I am talking about. I have always called them keepers. http://www.courtesyparts.com/13210-c...8-p-17001.html
Here is the part I am talking about. I have always called them keepers. http://www.courtesyparts.com/13210-c...8-p-17001.html
Last edited by cardana24; 09-17-2010 at 06:35 AM.
09-17-2010, 07:11 AM
#92
here are a few pictures off how I altered the coolant path for the HR head gaskets. I used a dremel metal cutting bit for the vertical cuts and then I ground down a dremel cutting disc to make the horizonal cut at the bottom. Once I cut as much as I felt needed to be cut I snapped the peice off with a pair of needle nose vise grips.
09-17-2010, 08:17 AM
#94
I was hoping to have the heads put back together this weekend, but it looks like that is going to have to wait since I don't have new keepers yet. Oh well, I guess I will just be cleaning everthing really well this weekend.
Anyone have a secret sauce write up? I could do that while I have some extra time too.
09-17-2010, 08:46 PM
#96
09-18-2010, 08:45 AM
#98
#1 is all the way up so that is why it may look that way. Like streetz said, I did not hit the piston, but I may have touched the outside of the cylinder wall a few times.
09-18-2010, 06:41 PM
#99
09-19-2010, 05:26 AM
#100
yeah, I am not worried about it. I have to really hit it that much anyway. On cylinder 1 it looks worse than it is because of the dried up coolant stains on the outside of the wall. The only place I hit that one was right up on the top edge.
09-20-2010, 09:06 PM
#101
I was hoping to have the heads put back together this weekend, but it looks like that is going to have to wait since I don't have new keepers yet. Oh well, I guess I will just be cleaning everthing really well this weekend.
09-21-2010, 06:54 AM
#103
YES!! very important! however I dont know how to do this or what tool to use lol. I assume you just use a tap with some oil on it to get the debree out. I didnt remember to clean out the threads so in one of them the head bolt didnt have the same resistance as the others, it was too late to start over so i just left it, so far so good
09-21-2010, 07:24 AM
#104
YES!! very important! however I dont know how to do this or what tool to use lol. I assume you just use a tap with some oil on it to get the debree out. I didnt remember to clean out the threads so in one of them the head bolt didnt have the same resistance as the others, it was too late to start over so i just left it, so far so good
09-21-2010, 08:06 AM
#106
FWIW, there are special "chaser" taps made for cleaning up both holes and bolts. They are best found in sets - which I found on eBay. It's also a good idea to clean out all the bolt holes for the timing covers and lower oil pan and lower-end girdle and head bolts. That's where a "chaser" tap really pays off, since you can clean the RTV and assorted crap out of all those holes and not take metal off the existing threads. I did this on both 3.5s i have put together, and all those ARP studs went right in.
09-21-2010, 12:23 PM
#107
Tool Warehouse: http://www.usatoolwarehouse.com/usat...e/KAS-972.html
eBay : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3718&viewitem=
A Google search for "tap set metric chaser" will lead you to others. These taps come in very handy.
Last edited by grey99max; 09-21-2010 at 12:29 PM.
09-21-2010, 01:37 PM
#108
Even a stock bolt, then magnet, and compressed air is better than nothing. Haven't tried it, but I've heard of people grinding down opposing sides of a stock bolt (to scoop debris), running it through a die a few times to debur and using that. Just don't force anything and blow it out real well and it should be fine.
09-21-2010, 02:25 PM
#109
Even a stock bolt, then magnet, and compressed air is better than nothing. Haven't tried it, but I've heard of people grinding down opposing sides of a stock bolt (to scoop debris), running it through a die a few times to debur and using that. Just don't force anything and blow it out real well and it should be fine.
Don't ask me why I'm so **** about doing this carefully.....
Last edited by grey99max; 09-21-2010 at 02:29 PM.
09-21-2010, 04:32 PM
#110
OK - Let's see.. Sears: http://www.mysears.com/Craftsman-48-...er-Kit-reviews
Tool Warehouse: http://www.usatoolwarehouse.com/usat...e/KAS-972.html
eBay : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3718&viewitem=
A Google search for "tap set metric chaser" will lead you to others. These taps come in very handy.
Tool Warehouse: http://www.usatoolwarehouse.com/usat...e/KAS-972.html
eBay : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3718&viewitem=
A Google search for "tap set metric chaser" will lead you to others. These taps come in very handy.
09-29-2010, 10:41 AM
#111
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Hopewell Junction, NY
Posts: 92
Just wondering how things were going with your swap. Even though I predicted you would finish yours before me, I got the last few pieces in this weekend and was able to start her on Sunday. It was good to hear her run again. It's still not totally finished. I have to work out something to connect the EGR tube to the intake manifold (I got an '04 engine as well) and I have an air leak which seems to be coming from the throttle body adapter plates.
09-29-2010, 11:01 AM
#112
Just wondering how things were going with your swap. Even though I predicted you would finish yours before me, I got the last few pieces in this weekend and was able to start her on Sunday. It was good to hear her run again. It's still not totally finished. I have to work out something to connect the EGR tube to the intake manifold (I got an '04 engine as well) and I have an air leak which seems to be coming from the throttle body adapter plates.
09-29-2010, 07:17 PM
#115
09-29-2010, 07:49 PM
#116
I have no idea work your skill level is or what your plans are with the motor and was just asking
10-02-2010, 01:02 PM
#117
which oil baffle do I use? I am going to use the 3.0 upper and lower pan. I took the one off of the 3.5 that was bolted to the bottom of the crank cage (don't know the proper name for this). On the 3.0 the baffle is bolted to the upper pan rather than the crank cage. Should I leave the baffle on the 3.0 upper pan, or do I need to take that one off and and bolt the 3.5 baffle back to the crank cage?
10-02-2010, 01:34 PM
#118
which oil baffle do I use? I am going to use the 3.0 upper and lower pan. I took the one off of the 3.5 that was bolted to the bottom of the crank cage (don't know the proper name for this). On the 3.0 the baffle is bolted to the upper pan rather than the crank cage. Should I leave the baffle on the 3.0 upper pan, or do I need to take that one off and and bolt the 3.5 baffle back to the crank cage?
10-02-2010, 02:30 PM
#119
10-02-2010, 02:46 PM
#120