cardana24's 3.5 swap
It's been cold
I insulated my garage doors over the weekend so hopefully I can pick at it this week a little. The only thing I have done since my last update is I put the outer timing chain cover on. Next I need to flip the engine over and put the oil pans and baffle back on. Hopefully i will be updating the thread this week.
I insulated my garage doors over the weekend so hopefully I can pick at it this week a little. The only thing I have done since my last update is I put the outer timing chain cover on. Next I need to flip the engine over and put the oil pans and baffle back on. Hopefully i will be updating the thread this week.
man!! I need to work on this thing more often. I forget where I put things. I had to look for bolts for an hour before I could get anything done.
Anyway I put the 3.5 oil baffle on, and I put the upper and lower 3.0 oil pans and called it a night. Here are a few pictures.


Anyway I put the 3.5 oil baffle on, and I put the upper and lower 3.0 oil pans and called it a night. Here are a few pictures.

Wow, I thought it would be like 90 lb/ft on that crank pulley. I used a 9 foot fence post to break my pulley loose. Also, my 3.5 's oil baffle was bolted to the oil pan just like the 3.0 rather than the crank girdle, must be a 6th gen 3.5 thing. Don't forget to plug that coolant hole in the back with the 3.0's bolt if you use the 3.0 oil pan.
Last edited by ampire; Jan 19, 2011 at 06:32 AM.
. I took the one off my my 3.0 oil pan earlier because someone had mentioned something about arp rod bolts being too big or something...but that is not the case. You could use either one on my set up. Looking at the tq specs closer it looks like you you tighten it to 29-36 ft/lbs. then turn it an additional 60-66*. I'm glad I bought that torque angle meter
I would use the 3.0 knock sensor just because its on the 3.0 harness and you know it works well if your 3.0 worked well. You could measure the resistance across both and see if its the same and if the plugs fit the harness the same.
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...p-running.html
Summary: They say to use the 3.5's and that it will work with the harness, bottom post is pretty interesting however:
Summary: They say to use the 3.5's and that it will work with the harness, bottom post is pretty interesting however:
IMO the worst case senario is that the Knock Sensor will be less sensitive. The harnesses are identical, the diameter of the magnet base is identical. The 3.5 KS seems ever so slightly taller though. The harnesses both start out as two wires and then go down to one.
The 1995 ECU may not be able to read the 2002 KS right, which is another problem.
Interesting theories nonetheless, but 2000-2004 Maximas use the same knock sensor. 2000-2001= VQ30. 2002-2004= VQ35. (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...5&model=Maxima)
So the displacement has no effect on that. Nissan just decided to go with a crappier knock sensor in 2000.
You guys might also want to take a look at this:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...Category_Code=
Look at how many applications the knock sensor has. This is the one I bought. Used on anything from V6 Maximas, 300zx to 4-banger Altimas and Sentras.
I always run 94 Octane anyway.
The 1995 ECU may not be able to read the 2002 KS right, which is another problem.
Interesting theories nonetheless, but 2000-2004 Maximas use the same knock sensor. 2000-2001= VQ30. 2002-2004= VQ35. (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...5&model=Maxima)
So the displacement has no effect on that. Nissan just decided to go with a crappier knock sensor in 2000.
You guys might also want to take a look at this:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...Category_Code=
Look at how many applications the knock sensor has. This is the one I bought. Used on anything from V6 Maximas, 300zx to 4-banger Altimas and Sentras.
I always run 94 Octane anyway.
Last edited by ampire; Jan 19, 2011 at 07:14 PM.
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...p-running.html
Summary: They say to use the 3.5's and that it will work with the harness, bottom post is pretty interesting however:
Summary: They say to use the 3.5's and that it will work with the harness, bottom post is pretty interesting however:
he is saying it may not run with the 95 ecu according to the part you quoted.
I used the 3.5 ks since it was already on the motor and the 3.0 harness. But I really don't think it matters
btw I did have a 2nd ks on my strut tower for the track cause if I would shift really hard the shock would make the car think it's knocking and pull timing during my shifts
btw I did have a 2nd ks on my strut tower for the track cause if I would shift really hard the shock would make the car think it's knocking and pull timing during my shifts
I used the 3.5 ks since it was already on the motor and the 3.0 harness. But I really don't think it matters
btw I did have a 2nd ks on my strut tower for the track cause if I would shift really hard the shock would make the car think it's knocking and pull timing during my shifts
btw I did have a 2nd ks on my strut tower for the track cause if I would shift really hard the shock would make the car think it's knocking and pull timing during my shifts
Wouldn't the knock sensor on your strut tower vibrate too on hard shifts? Or did that way give you full timing?
The ks harness is in two parts and the 3.5 and 3.0 harness for the part that goes on the actual ks will plug into the other half connected to your engine harness. I left the 3.5 ks on the block and the 3.0 ks on the strut tower. It appears the 3.5ks is alittle too sensitive for the 4gen ecu. When the ks on the strut tower I always had full timing thru shifts. The only time it would pull timing on the tower is if I had wheelhop. You could also just put the 3.0ks on the 3.5block but due to the thinner walls of the motor it will still detect alittle more knock than with a de block.
where can I get an egr block off?
this is the sku number I am finding in a few other threads, but when I go to courtsey there is no description of the part. SKU is 14017-4y900
this is the sku number I am finding in a few other threads, but when I go to courtsey there is no description of the part. SKU is 14017-4y900
Last edited by cardana24; Jan 20, 2011 at 08:16 AM.
My 4th gen IACV was remote mounted by the shop, and I had them install a PFTB with the IACV removed. The shop plugged the EGR as well. I have a 95 so theres very few sensors compared to later gen 4's.
Found it: http://www.courtesyparts.com/14003k-...3-p-53839.html
Last edited by ajcool2; Jan 20, 2011 at 03:09 PM.
I believe Pmohr posted the link to it in my thread. I'll check it out.
Found it: http://www.courtesyparts.com/14003k-...3-p-53839.html
Found it: http://www.courtesyparts.com/14003k-...3-p-53839.html
If I'm not mistaken, you have 6th gen motor/intake manifold. I have a 5.5gen one for sale that doesnt have this hole for egr if you want.
yeah, my engine is from an 05. I did buy an extra intake manifold so I will have to check that one out. If that one has the egr port too then I will PM you about that. Thanks for the offer.
I took my oil "T" out last night and just put the pressure sensor back in the upper oil pan. I took the water passage stud out of the right side head and put the plug in there from my 3.0 head. I also installed the 3.5 knock sensor with the 3.5 harness....will this sub harness work with the 4th gen wiring harness? I am curious because this sub harness is tied into wires that go to the 3.5 intake cam sensors that plug into the back of the heads.
I also installed NWP spacers on the LIM and then installed the LIM. Right now I am waiting on some water outlet gaskets so I can put the 3.0 water pipes on the 3.5 engine. My goal is to have the engine in the engine bay by the end of weekend....we will see how it goes.
You have to cut down the 4th gen plug and it will plug in to the PF iacv. Its the same procedure as when you use a 5th gen IACV with a VI swap. I thought I had a pic but cant seem to find it.
What have you guys done for mid pipes? I am going to run a jwt pop charger, but i was going to run a mid pipe between the throttle body and the MAF. Do you use a 3.5 or 3.0 mid pipe?
gotcha. I will probably just stick to remote mounting my 4th gen on since I already have the adaptor plate.
What have you guys done for mid pipes? I am going to run a jwt pop charger, but i was going to run a mid pipe between the throttle body and the MAF. Do you use a 3.5 or 3.0 mid pipe?
What have you guys done for mid pipes? I am going to run a jwt pop charger, but i was going to run a mid pipe between the throttle body and the MAF. Do you use a 3.5 or 3.0 mid pipe?
Wow Carson nice work!
I totally missed this thread. I will be checking it out regularly now to see your progress.
I have to make it down there one of these days and check out the setup.
I totally missed this thread. I will be checking it out regularly now to see your progress.
I have to make it down there one of these days and check out the setup.
Even though it was cold as ish this weekend I got some stuff done.
I got the engine mount on and probably a few other things that I don't remember

Put the new front exhaust header on

Finally took the engine off of the stand

Installed a new pilot bearing

Then started taking my flywheel apart to put on a new friction surface
I got the engine mount on and probably a few other things that I don't remember

Put the new front exhaust header on

Finally took the engine off of the stand

Installed a new pilot bearing

Then started taking my flywheel apart to put on a new friction surface
It's getting there. I am waiting on some gaskets and misc. stuff from the dealership and then I can make some more progress. I would like to get the rear header installed and bolt the transmission up while I am waiting on stuff. If I can stick with it, hopefully I will be trying to start it in a few weeks.










