Ampire's VQ35 simple rebuild/ 4g swap log
#81
Make sure you remember the position of the orange marks on the cams, that way you dont have to dig through the FSM later to find out which cam is intake and which is exhaust, you already took a picture so thats great!
Also remember when you put on the spacers for the cams, make sure the surface on spacer and cam are bone dry.
Also remember when you put on the spacers for the cams, make sure the surface on spacer and cam are bone dry.
Also in Tavarish's guide, he mentions aligning the second mark on the crank pulley to the water pump, however the FSM shows the first mark (of the 3). Does this make a difference? I used the FSM's method. You can see my cylinder 1's cam positioning here:
Last edited by ampire; 11-29-2010 at 08:19 AM.
#82
I just go with the FSM anyways, The crank has a notch that you point to 5 o'clock to get TDC also. Theres a few ways.
Here is another important tip that I dont know if alot of people do:
When your putting the timing equipment back together and your putting on the tensioner for the main chain, get the tensioner and turn it up, push in the piston and while holding it in and pour oil topping it off, then release the piston. You'll see that as you relase the piston oil will be sucked into the tensioner, push back in, pour and release. Youll notice the piston gets really hard to push in, thats what you want! then push it in, put a pin, then bolt it to the timing cover and install everything else, once your done putting the chain, remove the pin and it will provide pressure on the chain, this will reduce the chance of chain skipping during 1st startup big time.
Here is another important tip that I dont know if alot of people do:
When your putting the timing equipment back together and your putting on the tensioner for the main chain, get the tensioner and turn it up, push in the piston and while holding it in and pour oil topping it off, then release the piston. You'll see that as you relase the piston oil will be sucked into the tensioner, push back in, pour and release. Youll notice the piston gets really hard to push in, thats what you want! then push it in, put a pin, then bolt it to the timing cover and install everything else, once your done putting the chain, remove the pin and it will provide pressure on the chain, this will reduce the chance of chain skipping during 1st startup big time.
Last edited by streetzlegend; 11-29-2010 at 01:48 PM.
#83
Is this for cooling or for oil?
I can't get the damn screws out to clean the inside, and I got some brake cleaner, gasket material and other junk in there when I was cleaning the mating surfaces around it so I sprayed water in there already to get that junk out.
I don't want any issues with water in my oil or whatever. I tried PB-blaster on the screws but no luck, almost stripped 2 of them and I stopped, one came out okay. Now I gotta stress over the pb blaster in there...
backside of above picture, the hatch with the screws:
I can't get the damn screws out to clean the inside, and I got some brake cleaner, gasket material and other junk in there when I was cleaning the mating surfaces around it so I sprayed water in there already to get that junk out.
I don't want any issues with water in my oil or whatever. I tried PB-blaster on the screws but no luck, almost stripped 2 of them and I stopped, one came out okay. Now I gotta stress over the pb blaster in there...
backside of above picture, the hatch with the screws:
Last edited by ampire; 11-29-2010 at 07:51 PM.
#84
FSM recomendes you dont remove that but i didnt read that till after i removed it. i used a power drill with a large bit on the end so it fits nicely inside the screw. apply as much pressure downword and unscrew it. worked like a charm considering it has more torque then our hands lol
#85
yeah I would definitely like to remove it if nothing else because I am paranoid about pb blaster messing up its seals. I will take it to a mechanic or something tomorrow on my lunch break, see if I can slip em $5 and get that bastard off. How hard was it to torque it back down?
Last edited by ampire; 11-29-2010 at 08:15 PM.
#86
If you're worried about the PB blaster, flush it out with WD40.
As far as the Nissan vs. aftermarket timing gear, I would highly suggest you use the OEM stuff. I recently built a QR25 for a buddy's sentra, and he brought me all the parts. Timing stuff was new but not from nissan. Ended up having the timing chain come apart and fill the oil pickup with small pieces of metal until the motor lost oil pressure. Get the right stuff the first time if it's a performance motor.
As far as the Nissan vs. aftermarket timing gear, I would highly suggest you use the OEM stuff. I recently built a QR25 for a buddy's sentra, and he brought me all the parts. Timing stuff was new but not from nissan. Ended up having the timing chain come apart and fill the oil pickup with small pieces of metal until the motor lost oil pressure. Get the right stuff the first time if it's a performance motor.
#87
Looks like it is an oil passage "Do not remove plate metal cover of oil passage".
I have been flushing water through it for a half hour now figuring if I got it wet already whatever. I was gonna put it in the parts washer anyway. I guess I will just need to make sure its fully dry in there somehow...
update: I wasted a leftover quart of oil on that passage to flush out any other **** stuck in there and whatever moisture. Hope that works for now. I think I got all the water, pb, cleaner, and gasket material out after that.
I have been flushing water through it for a half hour now figuring if I got it wet already whatever. I was gonna put it in the parts washer anyway. I guess I will just need to make sure its fully dry in there somehow...
update: I wasted a leftover quart of oil on that passage to flush out any other **** stuck in there and whatever moisture. Hope that works for now. I think I got all the water, pb, cleaner, and gasket material out after that.
Last edited by ampire; 11-29-2010 at 09:13 PM.
#89
#91
Yeah I read what you posted and its great advice!
Only things I need still are the emanage, the FPR, and the T fittings.
What size fittings does it use? 5/16th? Any advice on a good FPR? Nismo one looks pricey at $130, I'd like to spent <$100. Probably want one with a gauge, I am looking on summit's website.
Do I need to buy a 96+ ring gear for the Fidanza Flywheel because I have a 95? I just realized my 95 timing gear probably won't fit the fidanza... tag on car says build 7/94.
Any thoughts?
Only things I need still are the emanage, the FPR, and the T fittings.
What size fittings does it use? 5/16th? Any advice on a good FPR? Nismo one looks pricey at $130, I'd like to spent <$100. Probably want one with a gauge, I am looking on summit's website.
Do I need to buy a 96+ ring gear for the Fidanza Flywheel because I have a 95? I just realized my 95 timing gear probably won't fit the fidanza... tag on car says build 7/94.
Any thoughts?
Last edited by ampire; 11-30-2010 at 09:31 PM.
#92
Just an update, I got the crank chain off, and I broke the rear intake cam sprocket bolt loose, but the exhaust one won't break. I am using a 24mm generic wrench on the cam, I am worried it will slide off and break a lobe, it popped off once before but didn't really damage anything, just rounded the hexagon slightly. Pretty stressful, any tips?
I am using a breaker bar and I have the wrench inside a cheater pipe. Cool to spray PB blaster on that sprocket bolt?
I am using a breaker bar and I have the wrench inside a cheater pipe. Cool to spray PB blaster on that sprocket bolt?
Last edited by ampire; 12-01-2010 at 06:44 PM.
#93
Just an update, I got the crank chain off, and I broke the rear intake cam sprocket bolt loose, but the exhaust one won't break. I am using a 24mm generic wrench on the cam, I am worried it will slide off and break a lobe, it popped off once before but didn't really damage anything, just rounded the hexagon slightly. Pretty stressful, any tips?
I am using a breaker bar and I have the wrench inside a cheater pipe. Cool to spray PB blaster on that sprocket bolt?
I am using a breaker bar and I have the wrench inside a cheater pipe. Cool to spray PB blaster on that sprocket bolt?
#94
Those bolts are always tight the first time you crack them - sure it's a 24mm? Try a 22mm? Harbor Freight has a quality set of large-size metric wrenches that are loooong.. That's what I use. You need a tight fit there on the cam. Maybe a high-quality adjustable wrench with a cheater pipe on it? Pretty sure the PB Blaster won't help with this one - no way to penetrate.
I tried a 22 great neck or whatever from autozone, too small. 23 didn't fit. 24 fit, but was sorta loose. Ill take the 24, I'm gonna buy a big pvc pipe and put it on the 24, then see if it will break tomorrow.
#96
Yeah I read what you posted and its great advice!
Only things I need still are the emanage, the FPR, and the T fittings.
What size fittings does it use? 5/16th? Any advice on a good FPR? Nismo one looks pricey at $130, I'd like to spent <$100. Probably want one with a gauge, I am looking on summit's website.
Do I need to buy a 96+ ring gear for the Fidanza Flywheel because I have a 95? I just realized my 95 timing gear probably won't fit the fidanza... tag on car says build 7/94.
Any thoughts?
Only things I need still are the emanage, the FPR, and the T fittings.
What size fittings does it use? 5/16th? Any advice on a good FPR? Nismo one looks pricey at $130, I'd like to spent <$100. Probably want one with a gauge, I am looking on summit's website.
Do I need to buy a 96+ ring gear for the Fidanza Flywheel because I have a 95? I just realized my 95 timing gear probably won't fit the fidanza... tag on car says build 7/94.
Any thoughts?
#99
I still can't break the exhaust cam off. I am actually rounding down the hexagon on the camshaft and its not budging. Now its even worse because I can't grab the cam shaft as well. Should I try using a torch? I am using a 2 ft breaker with a 6 pt impact socket. I am going to go and buy a better/bigger adjustable wrench.
Can I use the hexagon farther away or will that bend the camshaft in bad ways? These things loosen counter clockwise, right?
HELP!!!
Can I use the hexagon farther away or will that bend the camshaft in bad ways? These things loosen counter clockwise, right?
HELP!!!
Last edited by ampire; 12-02-2010 at 03:49 PM.
#101
I bought a big 15" crescent wrench. I wonder if this will hold it. I just worry about it scratching the top of the valve parts.
I am really worried about damaging my valves. The camshaft spun free of the wrench earlier a half turn. The bigger, more expensive wrench might hold it better. I will try the torch as well.
Edit: I am thinking I will enlist more people, 1 to hold the engine stand, 1 to hold one part of the cam, 1 to hold the other part of the cam with a separate wrench, and then myself with the 9 foot fence post + breaker bar and impact socket.
I am really scared I bent my exhaust valve when it slipped last. The sprocket turned really far...
I am really worried about damaging my valves. The camshaft spun free of the wrench earlier a half turn. The bigger, more expensive wrench might hold it better. I will try the torch as well.
Edit: I am thinking I will enlist more people, 1 to hold the engine stand, 1 to hold one part of the cam, 1 to hold the other part of the cam with a separate wrench, and then myself with the 9 foot fence post + breaker bar and impact socket.
I am really scared I bent my exhaust valve when it slipped last. The sprocket turned really far...
Last edited by ampire; 12-02-2010 at 05:16 PM.
#102
LOL, you can't say I didn't warn you about the crank and cam bolts.
I normally put a 1 box wrench on each cam with them resting on the head or someone holding them in place if I have help. Then with a pipe over the breaker bar slowly pulled till I have a loud crack.
I normally put a 1 box wrench on each cam with them resting on the head or someone holding them in place if I have help. Then with a pipe over the breaker bar slowly pulled till I have a loud crack.
#103
Yeah I am really scared. Is there anyway to tell short of pulling the heads???? I put my fingers in the exhaust port and it felt the same as the others. I can't lie, Im really stressed out.
Last edited by ampire; 12-03-2010 at 02:03 PM.
#104
I broke them all loose using the help of 4 dudes, 9 foot long pipe, jammed the wrenches against a steel rod from my engine hoist that I propped on top of the heads.
Closer inspection, the valves should be fine. The valve that went down was on the cylinder that was the lowest from the top.
Did some minor cleaning as well, I will finish cleaning tomorrow and put the 3.0 inner timing cover on.
Closer inspection, the valves should be fine. The valve that went down was on the cylinder that was the lowest from the top.
Did some minor cleaning as well, I will finish cleaning tomorrow and put the 3.0 inner timing cover on.
Last edited by ampire; 12-04-2010 at 06:06 PM.
#105
Ran into a snag, the rear bank's tensioner popped off. Not sure I have all the pieces I need. Here is what I have
Spring, tiny metal rod thing, the guide part
note that the inside doesnt really have anything inside it, but the other one which didnt explode has a cylinder inside it. Does this mean I am missing a critical component? I don't have the 3.0's to swap in unfortunately. Did that tiny metal rod come from the variable cam sprocket possibly? I took the sprocket apart wondering if I needed to break it down further at first to remove it, then realized I didn't need to and put it back together... I found the metal rod around the timing chain area.
Spring, tiny metal rod thing, the guide part
note that the inside doesnt really have anything inside it, but the other one which didnt explode has a cylinder inside it. Does this mean I am missing a critical component? I don't have the 3.0's to swap in unfortunately. Did that tiny metal rod come from the variable cam sprocket possibly? I took the sprocket apart wondering if I needed to break it down further at first to remove it, then realized I didn't need to and put it back together... I found the metal rod around the timing chain area.
Last edited by ampire; 12-04-2010 at 06:07 PM.
#106
I just got new cam tensioners anyway.
Can anyone tell me where I can buy some VQ30 dowel rods for the exhaust cams? I read that they are longer and therefore essential to get the sprocket in the correct position. Courtesy parts does not sell them seperately.
I need to get these parts soon, the timeline on my swap really tightened because I found out I am moving in a month and a half.
Can anyone tell me where I can buy some VQ30 dowel rods for the exhaust cams? I read that they are longer and therefore essential to get the sprocket in the correct position. Courtesy parts does not sell them seperately.
I need to get these parts soon, the timeline on my swap really tightened because I found out I am moving in a month and a half.
#107
I just got new cam tensioners anyway.
Can anyone tell me where I can buy some VQ30 dowel rods for the exhaust cams? I read that they are longer and therefore essential to get the sprocket in the correct position. Courtesy parts does not sell them seperately.
I need to get these parts soon, the timeline on my swap really tightened because I found out I am moving in a month and a half.
Can anyone tell me where I can buy some VQ30 dowel rods for the exhaust cams? I read that they are longer and therefore essential to get the sprocket in the correct position. Courtesy parts does not sell them seperately.
I need to get these parts soon, the timeline on my swap really tightened because I found out I am moving in a month and a half.
You can drive out other cam pins with a small punch, from the lobe side.
Last edited by grey99max; 12-06-2010 at 12:19 PM.
#108
I also test fitted the stephenmax adapters, they are a perfect fit. Can't wait to get to the next step. Got my AEM 25-302BK Universal FPR today too. It has 2 inlet ports, 1 gauge port, and 1 outlet port. Do I block one of the inlets?
Last edited by ampire; 12-06-2010 at 08:12 PM.
#109
As an update, I am still waiting on a bunch of parts, I should get maybe Wednesday-ish.
I ordered a bunch of fuel fittings (-6an to 5/16th), some crucial timing components I was missing, a VAFC2, a UEGO Wideband O2, some misc. bolts for my suspension (probably switch back to stock ride height for the winter while I am at it, run the stock se springs with the tokico illumina shocks for that 4x4 look)
I ordered a bunch of fuel fittings (-6an to 5/16th), some crucial timing components I was missing, a VAFC2, a UEGO Wideband O2, some misc. bolts for my suspension (probably switch back to stock ride height for the winter while I am at it, run the stock se springs with the tokico illumina shocks for that 4x4 look)
#110
Okay so I am examining the primary chain tensioner since I am still waiting for some crucial parts. Do I need the gasket mentioned in a few threads that appears to sit behind the tensioner and mate with the inner timing cover?
When priming, should it be easy to compress? I stuck it in a cup of oil and compressed it in and out, it got slightly stiffer but didn't make a big difference. When removed, it didn't squirt out the port, maybe I didn't push it in far enough or something? What does the pin actually grab onto? Are you compressing the piston all the way in so that the pin sticks over the end of it?
FYI gasket:
http://forums.maxima.org/4908548-post11.html vvv NOT MY PICTURE below vvv
When priming, should it be easy to compress? I stuck it in a cup of oil and compressed it in and out, it got slightly stiffer but didn't make a big difference. When removed, it didn't squirt out the port, maybe I didn't push it in far enough or something? What does the pin actually grab onto? Are you compressing the piston all the way in so that the pin sticks over the end of it?
FYI gasket:
http://forums.maxima.org/4908548-post11.html vvv NOT MY PICTURE below vvv
Last edited by ampire; 12-13-2010 at 04:28 PM.
#112
I am? LOL not my pic above. Just trying to figure out the tensioner priming technique. I found that it compresses in farther than I thought, put a pin it it, now I feel dumb.
edit: was reading a thread about there being a tsb for chain rattle, cure was that gasket. never seen it mentioned anywhere else so I felt like asking about it.
edit: was reading a thread about there being a tsb for chain rattle, cure was that gasket. never seen it mentioned anywhere else so I felt like asking about it.
Last edited by ampire; 12-13-2010 at 04:49 PM.
#113
I am? LOL not my pic above. Just trying to figure out the tensioner priming technique. I found that it compresses in farther than I thought, put a pin it it, now I feel dumb.
edit: was reading a thread about there being a tsb for chain rattle, cure was that gasket. never seen it mentioned anywhere else so I felt like asking about it.
edit: was reading a thread about there being a tsb for chain rattle, cure was that gasket. never seen it mentioned anywhere else so I felt like asking about it.
#115
I would like to know the answer to this too because I have never heard anything about it and I don't have one on my engine.
#118
Oh awesome. I was scared about that. It is looking like I will be putting this thing in between the day after Christmas and new years. Going to take a few days off work. Never done a motor swap before, biggest car project I've ever done and this thing is my DD I have a spare car to get me through 2 weeks.
Also, the next potential thing I face is probably the axle removal, particularly the passenger side. The axles in this car are new and were installed 6 months ago, so hopefully they are easy to remove.
Also, the next potential thing I face is probably the axle removal, particularly the passenger side. The axles in this car are new and were installed 6 months ago, so hopefully they are easy to remove.
Last edited by ampire; 12-13-2010 at 08:07 PM.
#119
Oh awesome. I was scared about that. It is looking like I will be putting this thing in between the day after Christmas and new years. Going to take a few days off work. Never done a motor swap before, biggest car project I've ever done and this thing is my DD I have a spare car to get me through 2 weeks.
Also, the next potential thing I face is probably the axle removal, particularly the passenger side. The axles in this car are new and were installed 6 months ago, so hopefully they are easy to remove.
Also, the next potential thing I face is probably the axle removal, particularly the passenger side. The axles in this car are new and were installed 6 months ago, so hopefully they are easy to remove.
#120
Looks like I am starting the engine pull this Friday/Saturday!
Going to pick up a gear puller, pilot bearing removal tool, etc. You guys have any tips on any "special tools" that may come up?
Going to pick up a gear puller, pilot bearing removal tool, etc. You guys have any tips on any "special tools" that may come up?