Did you ever figure out if you need the main tensioner gasket? I just thought there was an updated tensioner, I did not know anything about a gasket.

 

I called Dave B, he says its not crucial and many of the kits he sells don't include it, but others do. On the later VQ30 (the DEK) they don't come with them from the factory. So I would guess you shouldn't worry about it.

Any tips on breaking free the axle nuts without air tools? I picked up a 36mm socket. The guy at the 'zone recommended a slide hammer and wheel bearing puller, which I got on deposit (returnable).

Chiltons says to either to lower the car off the jackstands so the tires are on the ground or to stick a pry bar between the floor and the hub so that the hub does not spin. I still have the 9 foot fence post so I can make some crazy torque.

 

Cool, thanks for the info.

Why in the world would you need a slide hammer and wheel bearing puller? It's not a four wheel drive front hub

As for doing the axle nuts with out air tools you are probably going to need some serious leverage, but since you said they axles have been done recently it may not be that bad. The easiest way I know of is while the calipers are still on the rotors get some one to stand on the brakes while you are trying to brake the nut free (*also lock the steering wheel) then you can pull/stand on the breaker bar to get the nut loose. Have fun and cuss a lot....and then buy air tool

 

Update:

Got the cam journals mounted, cam tensioners primed, pinned, put on. Ran into a snag with the inner timing cover and long story short will need to do over, the rtv made a huge mess as a result, so I get to spend tomorrow scraping the crap off the surfaces all over again once it dries (can't really scrape it when its wet, it just makes a mess).

For some reason one of the bolts sheared its head off while I was installing, then I had to drill at it a bit to separate the surfaces again. Was weird because I basically was able to unscrew it by hand after I got the inner cover off, so I think it was just a bad bolt, maybe I stressed it when I was breaking it loose while taking the cover off last week.

When I redo this whole thing, should I put RTV on both inner timing cover and the block or just the inner timing cover?
Do I need to put rtv around the two oil passage orings that connect to that sealed inner timing cover passage?

 

Okay so it snowed, got really nasty, garage is pretty damp. I sprayed wd40 on the open surfaces (crankshaft from below, camshafts). Hope that helps. I have a plastic sheet over it, but that probably just traps moisture as much as it helps. I am still waiting on some damn orings, so I can't button the motor yet. I put a fan in, swept out any snow and water, also, i left garage open a crack to keep things cold and dry in there, rather than slightly less cold and moist. Hope it works damn it.

edit: got air in the garage is cold and dry, water mostly went out, no rust, poured more oil on stuff, good enough.

 

I got the inner timing cover on, the oil pump on, the cam sprockets on, the cam chains on, and the exhaust cam sprocket bolt tightened down to 90 ft/lb with some red locktite. I wish the tensioners had a little more pop, they seem to be okay but who knows. I can depress them fairly easily, despite priming them by putting them in a container of oil and pushing them in until they filled with oil, etc. Also the cam chains and sprockets I used came off of a spare set of DE-K cams, they looked to be in better shape then the DE, they look identical.

One trick I learned is you have to put the cam sprockets on with the chain on them ahead of time, you can't put both sprockets on and then try and lay the chain up on them, nor can you put one sprocket on and try and get the chain + other sprocket on.

I'll get pictures of my cam timing up in a second.

 

The black goo is Sta-Lube Assembly Lubricant.

Soon I will put the primary timing chain and sprockets on.


The top guide (at 12 o'clock) is kind of loose, meaning that the black plastic component kind of shimmies inside the metal a bit. Is it safe to use?

 

Also should I remove the orings that are below the cam journal areas? I don't think anything mates to them on the 3.0 timing cover, but not sure.



What goes in this hole? Motor mount stud?
Edit: never mind, it is. Damn. I took this thing apart a month ago, and already forgot where a lot of stuff goes. The stud came out with the nut when I took the motor mount off.

 

...





....





.....

 

blah.
I think I got the timing 100%, but I want to get approval from some of the pros here before I torque anything down. Check it out please,critique:


Just a mock up, none of these bolts are tightened down.

Bank #1

Bank #2

Crank sprocket

 

that looks right to me, the only one I cannot be sure of is the crank sprocket, I cannot see the dimple on that one, but it looks like it is in the right place.

 

Looks good!

 

Awesome, thanks guys! I think the chain key on the crank sprocket is the indentation but it wasn't obvious.

 

Looks good man. You really got the inner timing cover clean. What are you doing for an intake setup?

 

Thanks, the plan is NWP block off plate and spacers, pathfinder throttle body, VQ30 stock intake piping. I have a K&N hi-flow cone filter but I haven't made an intake setup yet, I kind of like the idea of using the stock intake.

 

So, I haven't gotten any more done on this because I don't have an extra person right now to hold the cams and also help turn motor upside down on the stand so I can put the upper oil pan on (figure this way is better to prevent leaks). I put the little windows on the outer timing cover. So it has not been very productive this weekend.

I have a new rear main seal gasket to put on before I put the upper back on. Since I am removing the flexplate anyway, I might as well put that on.

The next step is therefore I need to torque down the primary sprockets. Prime and install the primary timing chain tensioner. Then, turn the motor over with the crank and make sure there are no issues. Put the outer timing cover on. Remove the AT flex plate. Put on new rear main seal. Turn motor upside down on the stand. Put the upper oil pan on. Put lower oil pan on. Done.



Looks like the driveplate torque specs are 61-69 ft/lb.

 

Okay, got bored and got the intake cam bolts tightened down. Was a bit harder, ended up doing it with the chain off. For anyone else doing this, I found its better to take the primary chain completely off before tightening the intake cam bolts. Otherwise, things tend to move even if you are being careful. I found that out the hard way. Also, before you tighten the bolts down, make sure that the primary intake sprockets are on straight and contact the secondary intake sprocket perfectly. Everything tightened to about 90 ft/lb with some red locktite.

 

How do I find TDC with the outer timing cover off?

Should the crank key align with the ' \ ' on the oil pump?

Current picture:

 

Just want to give you props. I have never done a rebuild of any sort but have done many other external and somewhat internal repairs. I can now say you have given me the ***** with your questions work done and good pictures. Thanks Next time I replace an engine I will be doing about the same work you are to ensure reliability. I might end up having to do this really soon. Damn bank 1 cat clog.

 

I chickened out so its not really a rebuild, I just went with a few new parts here and there.
I've learned a lot along the way, this is the first engine I've really worked with. We will see if it works haha.

 

#1:
Okay, I got all the timing parts on and I started turning it over by hand. The primary tensioner was "primed" when I put it on, meaning I put it in oil and depressed it then jammed the pin in. However, I currently have an issue where the tensioner seems to have lost its prime. After a full revolution, should the tensioner be easy to depress when testing this? Would the mating marks on the chain return to the mating marks on the sprockets?


#2: Can I remove the flex plate while the motor is on the stand or is this impossible? I'd like to get the new rear main seal in before the oil pan.

 

Mine looks like yours, it lines up with that mark on the oil pump case.

Mine also "lost it's prime after I turned the engine over several times. I plan on turning the engine by hand once I have the oil pan on with oil in it I don't think it is possible to keep the main tensioner primed if you are turning the engine while it is dry.

I have always taken my flywheel off before I put the engine on the stand, not sure if you would have enough room to do that. Why not just do it once the engine is off the stand?

 

Need to put the upper oil pan on to take motor off stand, need to take flywheel off to get at rear main seal. Can't put upper oil pan on until rear main seal is installed.

The damn bolt for the water pump sheared off when I was snugging it with the SCREWDRIVER+socket. God damn. Tried to drill it out to extract, just made a mess. Hit it with a tap but can't get it even.

 

now this could be a problem

 

Yeah. Real big problem .

 

Hey guys, I ended up having a shop install this motor for me. They had a question regarding these oil passages.


Do these need to be blocked off to maintain oil pressure for whatever reason or are these ignored? I am guessing they are left alone. Please let me know. These would normally route oil for the VTC and cam tensioners.

Found this thread http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...questions.html which indicates they are left alone. Is that the correct route? Could that make oil pressure issues for the cam tensioner?

 

Hey, sorry I have nothing to contribute. Just curious on how the installs goin and what kinda deadline youre lookin at for moving out. Looking to do my own build soon too so this will be great for reference. Great job on the thread and thanks

 

Yeah I chickened out due to some issues with a sports injury and time constraints of being relocated for my job, so I had a performance shop install it and finish the timing chain setup. I'd like to have gotten further on my own but its pretty hard to work with just one usable shoulder.

The shop is JE Import Performance of Baltimore MD, they have done a great job so far!
A gallery of the install is on their facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/pages/JE-Imp...13509115342201

 

Nice JE is a good shop! If you ever get a chance check out Hills Garage. Frank helped me out with my swap. He's the best nissan tech I know www.hillsgarage.net.

 

Yeah Hill's was the first shop I contacted based upon this forum's recommendations, but they were quite busy at the time. I am pretty happy with the experience so far at JE Imports!

 

Cool. I'm supposed to be hitting JE soon to refill my bottle maybe I'll spot the car while Im there.

 

Got the car back today. Car runs okay, its hard to tell if its knocking or if its clutch chatter. The AFR is very lean above the limits of the gauge when I am not stepping on the gas and highway cruising, but under full throttle falls to about 12.5.

I have not tuned it with the VAFC2 yet. The IACV, being independent of the throttle body now, makes a whistling noise when the car is idling.

 

When does it "knock"? If its after the clutch is already fully engaged then I doubt it chatter.

 

I will need to drive it a bit more to check, all I did was drive back from the shop. Also I am not sure that the VAFC learned the throttle position correctly so I may redo that. I also have poly motor mounts so I get a lot of vibration anyway.

 

post some pics of the swap

 

Okay its driving pretty well now. The clutch makes a ton of noise and chatter, its definitely the clutch not knock IMO.

Having issues with slipping when going Neutral to 1st and 1st to 2nd gears. I think it just needs to break in more, I am driving ultra smooth and careful but even so I had some slip and chatter. I will get some pics up over the next hour. It slipped when I was engaging and made a really loud wailing noise !!, I think I just need to improve my shifting technique with this setup.

 

These are signs of a vac leak

 

Just spray cleaner around the manifolds until I see it bubble?

 

carb cleaner. When it gets sucked in it will make the engine speed increse. I doubt you would see bubbles on an vacuum leak since the air is being sucked in and not blown out.

 

Okay I got the logic now, I'll go give it a shot. Also saw to keep a fire extinguisher handy, will do. Car idles really smooth however.