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Aackshun's VQ35DE Swap Plans...

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Old 09-01-2011, 07:32 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by aackshun
Maybe because it's stock... After a few mods they look like....



And TQ not mattering in the top end? Chas wha choo chiink, it is of my belief that TQ wins races and HP sells cars.

And Aaron's dyno (the one I posted) was the untuned one, when he tuned it, it turned into your typical VQ35, not something I want.

I might have to put this in my sig so I can stop saying it but...

If I wanted a bunch of top end HP with no TQ, I would have gotten a Honda.
Torque always drops off towards the top end of *ANY* motor. If you want to minimize some of the torque drop off, you need to do exotic things like ITBs with velocity stacks. Even bullet bike motors that rev to 15k or more rpm have their torque start dropping at 7k rpm. At 7k rpm, the cylinder is emptying the cylinder 58 times and refilling it with fresh air/fuel another 58 times. It has roughly 8ms to empty or fill the cylinder of air.

The TQ/hp argument is a non starter for cars with great gearing. If you're trying to get a 20,000 5th wheel moving, you need torque. If you have a light sub-3000lb car, after the first 5mph, torque doesn't matter. Remember, that 200ftlb of tq @ 6k rpm accelerates a mass at EXACTLY the same rate as another motor with 400ftlb of tq at 3k rpm.

HP is a function of TQ. HP is how fast work (acceleration) is being done. TQ is a measure of the force being applied, but not the speed at which work is done.

For instance, you or I can easily output more torque than a VQ if we have leverage. We can apply 500ftlb to a bolt with a breaker bar, but at how many RPM could you or I do that? 5 rpm? Well, that's about 0.1hp. But if a motor can pull 500ftlb of torque at 5250 rpm, it has 500hp and is doing 5000x the amount of work (acceleration) that you or I could.

Last edited by Weimar Ben; 09-01-2011 at 07:54 PM.
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Old 09-01-2011, 08:47 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by Weimar Ben
Torque always drops off towards the top end of *ANY* motor. If you want to minimize some of the torque drop off, you need to do exotic things like ITBs with velocity stacks. Even bullet bike motors that rev to 15k or more rpm have their torque start dropping at 7k rpm. At 7k rpm, the cylinder is emptying the cylinder 58 times and refilling it with fresh air/fuel another 58 times. It has roughly 8ms to empty or fill the cylinder of air.

Well they have seem to achieve it (what I want) with proper valve timing... nothing too exotic there.

The TQ/hp argument is a non starter for cars with great gearing. If you're trying to get a 20,000 5th wheel moving, you need torque. If you have a light sub-3000lb car, after the first 5mph, torque doesn't matter. Remember, that 200ftlb of tq @ 6k rpm accelerates a mass at EXACTLY the same rate as another motor with 400ftlb of tq at 3k rpm.

Then what'll happen if I keep lets say.... 350/400 ft/lbs @ 6krpm

HP is a function of TQ. HP is how fast work (acceleration) is being done. TQ is a measure of the force being applied, but not the speed at which work is done.

For instance, you or I can easily output more torque than a VQ if we have leverage. We can apply 500ftlb to a bolt with a breaker bar, but at how many RPM could you or I do that? 5 rpm? Well, that's about 0.1hp. But if a motor can pull 500ftlb of torque at 5250 rpm, it has 500hp and is doing 5000x the amount of work (acceleration) that you or I could.

All more of the reason why I should be trying to keep as much torque as possible, it gets amplified the higher I rev
Sheer brilliance up in here, I had to read this a few times.

Definitely good food for thought, just made me want to achieve what I want at all cost, because if I do what I want, then based on your knowledge bomb this will be a very strong car up top which is what I want

Now I have another reason why I want to keep my TQ w/ my HP, to make my little numbers even more effective!!!!!

This explains a lot on why I beat higher HP hondas with less weight than me... they don't make quite enough HP to over come my amount of tq that my little HP is working with....

Last edited by aackshun; 09-01-2011 at 08:51 PM.
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Old 09-01-2011, 11:48 PM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by aackshun
Well they have seem to achieve it (what I want) with proper valve timing... nothing too exotic there.
A Honda CBR600 has individual throttle bodies with velocity stacks and has two fuel injectors per cylinder, along with very aggressive cams. IIRC, my old one idled at 2000 rpm. Seriously, it's better than $ex. After you've ridden bullet bikes, *ALL* cars seem slow.
Originally Posted by aackshun
Now I have another reason why I want to keep my TQ w/ my HP, to make my little numbers even more effective!!!!!
Depends mostly on the area under the curve with the gearing of a given car.
Originally Posted by aackshun
This explains a lot on why I beat higher HP hondas with less weight than me... they don't make quite enough HP to over come my amount of tq that my little HP is working with....
If VTEC isn't engaged, it's just a normal underpowered 4 cylinder. It has a pretty narrow *real* powerband. The average hp on a VQ30 is higher than it is on a H22 Honda.

You might want to seriously consider weight reduction on your Maxima too. A 100 lb weight reduction (not hard to do) on your maxima, pays bigger dividends than a 100lb weight reduction on a 4000lb car. The VQ35 by itself is a step in the right direction. IIRC, it weighs 48lb less than a VQ30.

Another thing to remember is that falling TQ is ok, as long as its not falling off too quickly, resulting in decreased HP. A bullet bike's torque might peak at 7k rpm, but it keeps increasing its power at or near redline.

Last edited by Weimar Ben; 09-02-2011 at 12:02 AM.
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Old 09-02-2011, 02:13 AM
  #124  
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you want torque?

use

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Old 09-02-2011, 04:32 AM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by Weimar Ben
A Honda CBR600 has individual throttle bodies with velocity stacks and has two fuel injectors per cylinder, along with very aggressive cams. IIRC, my old one idled at 2000 rpm. Seriously, it's better than $ex. After you've ridden bullet bikes, *ALL* cars seem slow.

Depends mostly on the area under the curve with the gearing of a given car.

If VTEC isn't engaged, it's just a normal underpowered 4 cylinder. It has a pretty narrow *real* powerband. The average hp on a VQ30 is higher than it is on a H22 Honda.

You might want to seriously consider weight reduction on your Maxima too. A 100 lb weight reduction (not hard to do) on your maxima, pays bigger dividends than a 100lb weight reduction on a 4000lb car. The VQ35 by itself is a step in the right direction. IIRC, it weighs 48lb less than a VQ30.

Another thing to remember is that falling TQ is ok, as long as its not falling off too quickly, resulting in decreased HP. A bullet bike's torque might peak at 7k rpm, but it keeps increasing its power at or near redline.
I want a bike so bad, but I know I will live a very short life after buying one, talk about hp/weight ratio....

Again, I want to keep the area underneath the curve....

Rarely race H22's these days, most guys have B18B with VTEC swaps or B18C's in their car.

Car was weighed in January '10 @ 2701 Lbs, since then I've removed 35 (hood), 40 (Coilovers), 60 (Wheels), 5 (Flywheel), 12 (Headers), 8 (Catback) but added 8 (02 Maxima Brakes) and 30 lbs (6spd weight over 5spd).

Originally Posted by tookrzy4u192
you want torque?

use

nahhhhhhh

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Whole point of my build

Last edited by aackshun; 09-02-2011 at 04:55 AM.
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Old 09-02-2011, 06:17 AM
  #126  
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im in agreement with weight. i have managed to shave about 150-200lbs off my car's weight and when it was NA that made quite a difference. Kept my interior too. With the turbo and all its extras im sure i have gained atleast 60lbs back.

But as long as you are over 200wtqs with a VQ35 you are not really having any breathing problems and plus that is quite a bit of torque.
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Old 09-02-2011, 08:35 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by Crusher103
im in agreement with weight. i have managed to shave about 150-200lbs off my car's weight and when it was NA that made quite a difference. Kept my interior too. With the turbo and all its extras im sure i have gained atleast 60lbs back.

But as long as you are over 200wtqs with a VQ35 you are not really having any breathing problems and plus that is quite a bit of torque.
I want to be in the 250 range with my peak HP.

I'd like to have 300/270 with this motor peak.
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Old 09-02-2011, 08:47 AM
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lol even modfied race motors dont do that. HP>TQ in the upper rev range.
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Old 09-02-2011, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Crusher103
lol even modfied race motors dont do that. HP>TQ in the upper rev range.
300whp and 250 ft/lbs???? I can show you quite a few dynos exceeding that with NA VQs....... Hell look at the 370z dyno I posted...
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Old 09-02-2011, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by aackshun
I'm gonna run that class too.
Looks like high 12 second quarters will be competitive. You should be able to take the class with your setup.

Is the weight of your car with or without you in it?
I got my 6th gen to 3000lbs with me in it, so a 4th gen could get damn light.
I have a ton of ideas how to have a "full" interior and still be really light.
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Old 09-02-2011, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by krazy6
I'm gonna run that class too.
Looks like high 12 second quarters will be competitive. You should be able to take the class with your setup.

Is the weight of your car with or without you in it?
I got my 6th gen to 3000lbs with me in it, so a 4th gen could get damn light.
I have a ton of ideas how to have a "full" interior and still be really light.
Weighed in 2010 IFO @ 2971 with my 270lb self in the car, and since then I've made some modifications hopefully I will weigh in the 2800s (2899 counts ) which is the goal, so I can have 300-310whp and be around the times I want to be.
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Old 09-02-2011, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by aackshun
Weighed in 2010 IFO @ 2971 with my 270lb self in the car, and since then I've made some modifications hopefully I will weigh in the 2800s (2899 counts ) which is the goal, so I can have 300-310whp and be around the times I want to be.
You could get that thing quite a bit lighter than that.

I wish I could make 300whp, but im severly budget limited. lol
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Old 09-02-2011, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by krazy6
You could get that thing quite a bit lighter than that.

I wish I could make 300whp, but im severly budget limited. lol
I will only do things I can easily remove and install in under and hour, but I will take every tip and trick you have to offer
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Old 09-02-2011, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by aackshun
I will only do things I can easily remove and install in under and hour, but I will take every tip and trick you have to offer
Take as much weight as you can off the rear of the car. Work from the rear of the car forward.

Bumper supports, lighter driver and passenger seats (since you have to run both in the class)
Light battery (lawnmower or a nice one)
Some sort of skinnies on the rear
Take out the sound deadening

I'm using black towels from wal mart cut up to make my carpet. Doesn't weigh a damn thing and it looks bone stock.

Those are some starters.

I found a ton of loop holes in the rules, so my car will still be pretty damn gutted. lol
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Old 09-03-2011, 12:49 AM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by aackshun
I want a bike so bad, but I know I will live a very short life after buying one, talk about hp/weight ratio....

Again, I want to keep the area underneath the curve....

Rarely race H22's these days, most guys have B18B with VTEC swaps or B18C's in their car.

Car was weighed in January '10 @ 2701 Lbs, since then I've removed 35 (hood), 40 (Coilovers), 60 (Wheels), 5 (Flywheel), 12 (Headers), 8 (Catback) but added 8 (02 Maxima Brakes) and 30 lbs (6spd weight over 5spd).



nahhhhhhh

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Whole point of my build
"No cutting for weight reduction purposes allowed."
Haha, doesn't say anything about drilling. Time to turn that maxima (or accord) into swiss cheese.
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Old 09-03-2011, 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Weimar Ben
"No cutting for weight reduction purposes allowed."
Haha, doesn't say anything about drilling. Time to turn that maxima (or accord) into swiss cheese.
BTW I really don't drive that accord, just drove it for two weeks thinking that I'd save money on gas because I'm using regular unleaded instead of premi.... Fail, the accord got 21mpg vs my maxima's 29 on that route to work and back, ended up spending more money those two weeks.

On the highway though it's arguable, the accord got it's 30 so for maybe a nice 60 mile highway trip the accord may be more effiecent, but at the cost of the comfort and the obnoxious noise of a buzzy K24... The pennies aren't worth it.

//Edit
And the photo is from a TSD Road Rally I participated in and took 2nd place, car had good handles for being stock, but most of that was due to the widened stance with the G wheels, it really responded well to the increased track and wider tires. Nifty little car in and out of all types of corner for it's size.

Last edited by aackshun; 09-03-2011 at 01:00 AM.
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Old 09-03-2011, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by aackshun
K swapped hondas are going to DOMINATE that.
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Old 09-03-2011, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Crusher103
K swapped hondas are going to DOMINATE that.
Yeah, they will. We have a chance though.
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Old 09-03-2011, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Crusher103
K swapped hondas are going to DOMINATE that.
Nope.

Been beating them already, and so has many other locals, forced those guys to use spray.

Only ran one that was really done up right, and it would NOT qualify for AMS, AMP worthy vehicle though, I'm personally surprised he could even get a fake inspection, and the guys w/ 3.5s down here has not lost to any N/A hatch (maybe 1 or 2 that I don't know about but I'm quite sure if I had a 3.5 I'd take em).

The most interesting cars for AMS will be a done up 370z, Hyundai Genesis, or a fully done up K20/K24 hatch with mystery weight mods done to the chassis. None which I've seen run in IFO of course, and if I do they're improperly running because they're cars waiting to get boosted.

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Old 09-03-2011, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by aackshun
Nope.

Been beating them already, and so has many other locals, forced those guys to use spray.

Only ran one that was really done up right, and it would NOT qualify for AMS, AMP worthy vehicle though, I'm personally surprised he could even get a fake inspection, and the guys w/ 3.5s down here has not lost to any N/A hatch (maybe 1 or 2 that I don't know about but I'm quite sure if I had a 3.5 I'd take em).

The most interesting cars for AMS will be a done up 370z, Hyundai Genesis, or a fully done up K20/K24 hatch with mystery weight mods done to the chassis. None which I've seen run in IFO of course, and if I do they're improperly running because they're cars waiting to get boosted.
A gutted hatch with slicks on a well tuned K series will run mid to low 11s all day. The only person we currently know that can match/beat that is jime but he is on nitrious.

up top they fall on their face thou.

Last edited by Crusher103; 09-03-2011 at 12:43 PM.
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Old 09-03-2011, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by aackshun
Nope.

Been beating them already, and so has many other locals, forced those guys to use spray.

Only ran one that was really done up right, and it would NOT qualify for AMS, AMP worthy vehicle though, I'm personally surprised he could even get a fake inspection, and the guys w/ 3.5s down here has not lost to any N/A hatch (maybe 1 or 2 that I don't know about but I'm quite sure if I had a 3.5 I'd take em).

The most interesting cars for AMS will be a done up 370z, Hyundai Genesis, or a fully done up K20/K24 hatch with mystery weight mods done to the chassis. None which I've seen run in IFO of course, and if I do they're improperly running because they're cars waiting to get boosted.
You're beating K24/K20 hatches with your 3.0?

It's not hard to make over 300whp with a k-series and those cars will be insanely light.

A guy ran 11.3 in a k-series swapped crx in AMS. How could we beat that without spending insane amounts of money?
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Old 09-03-2011, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by krazy6
You're beating K24/K20 hatches with your 3.0?

It's not hard to make over 300whp with a k-series and those cars will be insanely light.

A guy ran 11.3 in a k-series swapped crx in AMS. How could we beat that without spending insane amounts of money?
Yes beat a few, lost to a few.

Havent seen over 300, but I've seem some near it.

well I'm screwed.
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Old 09-04-2011, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by aackshun
Yes beat a few, lost to a few.

Havent seen over 300, but I've seem some near it.

well I'm screwed.
Wow, they must have not known how to drive. No offense.
Ported head, cams, some compression and you're there.

There are a lot of fast AMS cars. Me and you will have to just hope that the slow ones come to the event.
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Old 09-04-2011, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by krazy6
Wow, they must have not known how to drive. No offense.
Ported head, cams, some compression and you're there.

There are a lot of fast AMS cars. Me and you will have to just hope that the slow ones come to the event.
Doesn't matter cause those will be the same cars I will be racing in the houston IFO's.

I've looked up past times in the IFO's i plan on attending this and next year and they are all within VQ35 swapped 4th gen dominance, just need some 16's, krazy6 shaved calps and learn how to launch this thing and the rest is handled.

RX-7 wheels are easily attainable now with my connections @ work , same goes for Millenia rims for the rear.
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Old 09-04-2011, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by aackshun
Doesn't matter cause those will be the same cars I will be racing in the houston IFO's.

I've looked up past times in the IFO's i plan on attending this and next year and they are all within VQ35 swapped 4th gen dominance, just need some 16's, krazy6 shaved calps and learn how to launch this thing and the rest is handled.

RX-7 wheels are easily attainable now with my connections @ work , same goes for Millenia rims for the rear.
I would do whatever you can to get a 15" wheel on the car. If you run drag radials you're gonna be at a huge disadvantage.

Just trying to help, I'd like to see a maxima win the class.

I just got some 5.5 gen brakes so I can fit a 15" wheel.
I'm tired of running drag radials. They suck *****.
24.5 slicks here I come.
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Old 09-04-2011, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by krazy6
I would do whatever you can to get a 15" wheel on the car. If you run drag radials you're gonna be at a huge disadvantage.

Just trying to help, I'd like to see a maxima win the class.

I just got some 5.5 gen brakes so I can fit a 15" wheel.
I'm tired of running drag radials. They suck *****.
24.5 slicks here I come.
I may have to keep my 5.5gen brakes then..... Maybe if I go aftermarket with the rotors/pads they will brake as hard as I want them too because on the road course they didn't break the traction of my V710s....

Last edited by aackshun; 09-04-2011 at 05:08 PM.
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Old 09-04-2011, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by aackshun
I may have to keep my 5.5gen brakes then..... Maybe if I go aftermarket with the rotors/pads they will brake as hard as I want them too because on the road course they didn't break the traction of my V710s....
I'd keep the 5.5 gen brakes. Then you'll have no problem fitting 15" wheels.

Sent you a pm
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Old 09-05-2011, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by krazy6
I'd keep the 5.5 gen brakes. Then you'll have no problem fitting 15" wheels.

Sent you a pm
But but but you only go in straight lines!!!! I'm road coursing along with my straight line adventures.
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Old 09-05-2011, 07:55 AM
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ME GUUUUUUUUUSSSSSSSSTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA



That is my ideal/dream dyno....

Engine mods:
96mm 11:1 cp pistons
manley rods
HR headgasket mod
HR headbolts and headgaskets
new main bolts
revup oil pump
external balanced bottom end
port matched heads
stock valves
BC stage2 cams
BC springs and Ti retainers
Qx4 coolant pipe mod
idler pulley delete
Stillen factory size lightweigh crank pulley
new oem timing chains, guides and tensioners

Trans mods:
Comp clutch stage4 clutch kit
Comp clutch lightweight flywheel
new oem clutch master/slave cylinders
AP braided clutch line

Exhaust mods:
MR LTHs
MR y-pipe
custom 3" ss mandrel exhaust to single Apexi N1 muffler (hellaloud )

Intake mods:
MD 5/16" iso-thermal plenum spacer kit
polished insides of upper plenum
port matched intake manifold
stock lower plenum on it now (ported/polished lower still in progress)
AFE stage2 intake

Last edited by aackshun; 09-05-2011 at 09:01 AM.
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Old 09-05-2011, 10:52 AM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by aackshun
But but but you only go in straight lines!!!! I'm road coursing along with my straight line adventures.
Hey, you gotta make changes for both.

Don't expect to get 60ft times worth a damn on autocross/road race tires.
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Old 09-05-2011, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by krazy6
Hey, you gotta make changes for both.

Don't expect to get 60ft times worth a damn on autocross/road race tires.
I plan on buying 16s for drag racing like jo0o'z.

17's for the road course, and 16s/15s for the 1/4

I. Am not. A (wheel). *****.

(Has.... 4x Velox 17s, 4x G35 rims and 4x AE rims.... on top of the 6 unmounted tires )
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Old 09-05-2011, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by aackshun
I plan on buying 16s for drag racing like jo0o'z.

17's for the road course, and 16s/15s for the 1/4

I. Am not. A (wheel). *****.

(Has.... 4x Velox 17s, 4x G35 rims and 4x AE rims.... on top of the 6 unmounted tires )
Get some 15's on there!

16" tire sizes suck. lol
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Old 09-06-2011, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by krazy6
Get some 15's on there!

16" tire sizes suck. lol
Make a way for 15s to fit on your brakes!!!!
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Old 09-06-2011, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by aackshun


ME GUUUUUUUUUSSSSSSSSTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA



That is my ideal/dream dyno....
I was telling you to do a build like that earlier in the thread but NOOO, you were more concerned about arguing with me about torque. Now you see a dyno of a similar build and you like.
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Old 09-06-2011, 06:13 AM
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Old 09-06-2011, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Crusher103
I was telling you to do a build like that earlier in the thread but NOOO, you were more concerned about arguing with me about torque. Now you see a dyno of a similar build and you like.
To my knowledge pistons does not affect the curve, just the #'s... Could be wrong!

Last edited by aackshun; 09-06-2011 at 06:52 AM.
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Old 09-06-2011, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by aackshun
To my knowledge pistons does not affect the curve, just the #'s... Could be wrong!
The cams effect the curve aswell as the IM. The reason i was saying pistons&shaved head was to up the compression. Compression is what makes power, in an NA situation the higher the better. Going from 10.3:1 to around 11.1:1 that will be a pretty stout increase in oomph, shaving a mm or 2 off the head aswell will push it up some more.
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Old 09-06-2011, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Crusher103
The cams effect the curve aswell as the IM. The reason i was saying pistons&shaved head was to up the compression. Compression is what makes power, in an NA situation the higher the better. Going from 10.3:1 to around 11.1:1 that will be a pretty stout increase in oomph, shaving a mm or 2 off the head aswell will push it up some more.
God now this is getting expensive.....

I know... I know... This is a game for ballers only ballers can participate....

We'll see how my $$$ gets together after I buy the motor....
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Old 09-06-2011, 10:24 AM
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from what i have seen...torque has a natural tendency to fall after 5250 rpm while HP is rising....

the only way to prevent that is with more plenum volume and no factory intake manifold is going to do that.....you would have to go custom like sparks did(just look at the results) and from what i have seen on SG's Z33 a 90mm TB might help

there's no way to make lots torque at high rpms...the only thing you can do is keep it from falling to quickly ....

intake manifold,cams and header define the powerband and if you only want power in such a small powerband you will sacrifice a lot of power under the curve for "peak numbers"(i say peak because its such a small powerband) kinda ricer-ish IMO

ohh and higher compression will help alot to "suck" all the air your IM,cams and header are capable of flowing at high rpm


but great project and good luck

all of this is what i have learned just from reading on various forums
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Old 09-06-2011, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by shrek
from what i have seen...torque has a natural tendency to fall after 5250 rpm while HP is rising....

the only way to prevent that is with more plenum volume and no factory intake manifold is going to do that.....you would have to go custom like sparks did(just look at the results) and from what i have seen on SG's Z33 a 90mm TB might help

there's no way to make lots torque at high rpms...the only thing you can do is keep it from falling to quickly ....

intake manifold,cams and header define the powerband and if you only want power in such a small powerband you will sacrifice a lot of power under the curve for "peak numbers"(i say peak because its such a small powerband) kinda ricer-ish IMO

ohh and higher compression will help alot to "suck" all the air your IM,cams and header are capable of flowing at high rpm


but great project and good luck

all of this is what i have learned just from reading on various forums
I'm not trying to do the impossible, build tq after the magical crossover.

Think gutted Altima IM .

See first sentence.

What's the point of making power you can't use? (that really sounds even more ricer-ish) I have more than enough right now to get the car out of corners, problem is getting smoked on straightaways (aka streets or the 1/4 mile). I find it extremely unlikely that I will have less power than I do now at any rpm. Also, since I am not using any silly variable nonsense with this build I don't want to be chasing white buffalo's.... I know without VCT or VIAS a flat TQ line is a pretty lofty goal to expect.... But hell my TQ line isn't that bad right now, only problem is in the powerband, I have that typical VQ torque dropoff of 40-50 ft/lbs, something I want to prevent. That G had it PERFECT!!! I'd goto 6900rpms and call it a day!!!

This is what I've been seeing, I'm trying to find another dyno like that G posted right now, even with crazy pistons and crazy cams the torque still peaks in that magical VQ range of errr 4500rpm and falls off like crazy (I did see SG's dyno, and that guy in Signapore that made rediculous numbers, crazy high numbers with rollercoaster like lines), that dyno is truly one unique one, maybe because he did not let it rev as high as everyone else usually does to let the TQ fall off???? Even so, I doubt after another 500rpm will kill it and make it look like another VQ dyno... I will look into the whole plenum thing because unlike the other high power apps he did not use the cosworth plenum.....

So yes, I am still stuck on not doing pistons because at the end of the day, I'm just another cheap@$$ maxima owner.

The absence of evidence is not the evidence of absence.

Not every high comp VQ dyno is dynoing like that G, but the only dyno that I like has slightly bumped up compression..... hrmmm

//Edit, found some impressive dyno's by CIN tuning (The same guys who did the G dyno that I liked), it's all in the tune/cams/IM like I originally planned/thought.... I'm back on my original plan on not doing pistons.

Last edited by aackshun; 09-06-2011 at 09:25 PM.
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