Regular adhesive remover will get that sticky residue crap off from the stickers or goof off/goo gone,etc IIRC.....I just wonder sometimes what the project owners go through that make it into the big magazine articles and spreads with wrong, ill fitting parts,etc?? Must be insane sometimes and the $$$ to get what you want the way you want it the first time...sheesh....

You have a nice build going...

Jeremy

 

you need to replace those coolant lines, along w/ cleaning up the motor a bit more, there's a lot of things that stick out now, because of le bling

 

OK...I had to go back to the tuner and get a re-tune because car was running very rich all throughout the rpm range. At idle was about 11.0 and full throttle was lean about 13.8-13.5. Car was fast.....but after street tuning with tuner for about an hour...OMG!!! He adjusted camshaft timing more and leaned fuel out down low then richened the fuel up top......now at idle it sits about 13.8-14.2 on the gauge. Full throttle is near perfection around 12.8-13.1 AFR!!! Car is SIGNIFICANTLY more faster and SMOOTH!! Before with last tune I could not chirp the tires in second gear at ANY rpm. Now if Im driving at 5th gear at 30-40 mph and downshift to 2nd gear and floor it I can peel the tires away from the pavement for a good second......THAT FEELING IS REAL!!! More low end toque. Up top it just PULLS even HARDER now, So I know there is more HP!! EASY to accelerate...the thing just wants to go, you can feel it in the accelerator!! I want to get it back on the dyno but I KNOW it had to make more power. Low end torque is EVEN stronger!!! Car was a beast before but now its just IGNORANT!!! They also added a silicone elbow that I ordered to be able to get the intake piping length that I wanted.

OLD BAY:



NEW BAY:



I'm planning on re-dynoing the car soon!!! I just gotta see if this feeling is real.

I also bought an e-brake boot, shift boot, and armrest cover from redlinegoods.com. I got the shift boot on.....All of them have that silver stripe to match the interior. They make REALLY good quality leather. their leather makes stock leather look like GARBAGE!!!

 

dude


DUDE


wow. incredible.

 

Thanks!! I'm tryin!!

Also if anyone has not checked out RED LINE GOODS SHAME ON YOU!!! They make AWESOME leather accessories for the car. I just got mine in and installed. Leather shift boot, ebrake boot and armrest cover with sliver stripe:

 

How long should the intake be with that manifold if you want peak hp at 7100? 7500? and 8000? Do you know? Is there a formula and does it take into account your new intake?

thanks in advance.

 

So are you happy with it lol?? Glad you're enjoying the car, nothing like actually being able to enjoy driving the car instead of constantly working on it!

Jeremy

 

YES!! When I go to work in the morning I have to get on the on-ramp and it kind of circles around and then gets on the freeway. Its usually my favorite part of the day because I usually come out of the ramp in 2nd gear and floor it when Im about to get straight and get on the freeway really fast! So I did that this morning and came around the ramp in 2nd and I was thinking "Dam this thing just wants to go." I was actually holding accelerator BACK some than I usually do.....so when I got to a point in the circle where it was about to be straight I just floored it in 2nd.....TIRES PEELED AWAY FROM THE PAVEMENT and started loosing traction.....so I let off...then got back into it....and the rpms went up so fast I hit the 7k rev limiter before I could even shift...lol. Then I went to 3rd gear....mid middle of third I just let off. Scared me a bit. The car NEVER EVER peeled away from the pavement like that (it was dry...no rain) even after the first tune. I cant wait to see what it does on the dyno....feels quite a bit stronger than the last tune!! If it did not make any more HP I know it made more torque SOMEWHERE!!! I can FEEL THAT!!!

 

Good. Glad to see you are enjoying it even more.

 

Man, this sounds like such a fun car!

 

DYNO DAY TOMORROW!!! HOPE TO SEE SOMETHING GOOD!!!

 

 

Wait...is the turbo done already?!?

 

I not think so. Tuner retune his car for AFR adjustment or something.

 

In for new numbers.

 

 

 

I am going to guess 287

Anyone else?

On a side note why did the guy who is tuning your car give it to you with a rich tune. It should be really easy to see the A/F ratio was off.

 

Try some wax and grease remover or some lacquer thinner

 

GARBAGE NUMBERS!!!!! NOT EVEN GOING TO POST DYNO SHEET!!! WASTE OF TIME!!!!

Car LOST POWER made:

269hp and 258ft-lbs.....

I initially saw 278hp but smoothing was on 0....when put smoothing to 5 got those GARBAGE NUMBERS!!!!

SCREW N/A!!!! Turbo here I come!!!

On a good note did a street tune with tuner and he took alot of fuel out while cruising so I should get better gas mileage...other than that who cares!!!!!

 

Ahhh the good ole days

 

^^ Love it.

 

I never narked on no one.

Wow sorry to hear about those numbers. I still think you should cam it. Should be easy to hit 300whp.

 

thanks....but:

cams =$1000 + valve springs =$300 + engine removal = $1000(or more) = $2300 and not evn include labor intsall on cams = MAYBE 30 more HP (maybe 300whp).

Turbo build =$5000 = 120-140MORE HP GUARANTEED (380-400whp)

I've made my decision......LOL.

 

And that's playing it safe, I know you can get 450+ out of it.

 

You can do it with the engine in easy enough...the back kinda sucks but you can angle the engine up in the bay just like working on the old GM 3400s which doesn't make it that bad...

But I understand what/why you have chosen to go that route. with a 3'' dp and catless exhaust you should be able to hit 400 I think...

 

i still think 300whp N/A would be more badass

 

OK...here is the deal. First picked up car from getting it tuned the first time. Car was running rich and boogging down when I shift to sencond gear. Top end was great and once car was rolling it was fine. Took car back to get street tuned to correct the bogging down....it was corrected. Noticed I was getting about 220miles per TANK!!! AFR gauge reading like 12-13 while cruising and goes to 10-11AFR on deceleration. SO took the car back AGAIN and did more street tuning and took out fuel and messed with intake cam timing etc. So I had it dynoed as well.....thats when I got that WEAK dyno.....that lost power made 269 after that. So with help from Surratt we found out that O2 sensor control was DISABLED (this helps keep AFR around 14.7 at light cruising and idle) ALSO, widebands were not set to 0V=10AFR and 5V = 20AFR in the Haltech.....ALSO widebands were not calibrated in the free air BEFORE they installed them so they all messed up. You are supposed to turn the little calibration dials fully counterclockwise and then slowly turn then clockwise until lights start to flash rapidly on BOTH widebands.....NEITHER were done because I have solid RED lights on the dual wideband control module.

So bottom line not tuned right because not calibrated and they dont seem to be too familiar with the Haltech software. So did 275hp on uncalibrated widebands.....could have made more...oh well who cares. Going turbo now and decided to go with another place because I didn't feel comfortable with then doing a turbo on the Haltech so I decided to get my parts that I bought and go elsewhere. They are a good shop and do great installs and work, but I want someone familiar with my software and tuning VQ35DEs. So this is the end of my N/A tuning journey. I will place all things concerning the turbo build in the turbo build thread. When I add my brakes, stereo system, etc I will place in this thread.......

The Haltech is a VERY powerful piece of EMS!!! It does EXACTLY what you tell it to do!!!! So all yall talking trash about the Haltech isn't worth it (CANT_GET_RYTE), its not the Haltech its the tune! The Haltech is GREAT!!

 

so basically a shop said they know how to turn your car and f'd up the tune becuase they didn't read the product manual? you should ask for a full refund or a correct tune.

 

You are VERY lucky they didn't damage your engine. I would be back there cursing them out, demanding a full refund. They charged you to tune your car and they didn't.

Another reason why I never let anyone tune or work on my rides.

 

I'm just going to take the car elsewhere to get tuned. RT Tuning know about the VQ35DE engine and the Haltech as well.

 

This. They will give this car a proper tune.

 

Good luck

 

hey what happened to the wiring diagram you had posted for the 09VQTB? did you remove it'??

 

I have no idea....I tried going back over the thread and I can't find it. I never deleted it...OH well here it is again:

 

As you all know my tune on my car is GARBAGE AFR is all over the place. I have Haltech with a Haltech Dual wideband controller. the shop I went to did not calibrate the widebands before they put them in. So now Im getting 220 miles per tank...GARBAGE AFR. I am getting like 11.0 on one bank and 13-14 on the other bank. Car starts bogging goes extremely lean to like 18-19 AFR when accelerating at times and stalls. Worked with Surratt and he helped me tune the car a bit and get it running a little better. I been down to the shop 3 times to correct this and each time just seems to get worse!!! So I was talking with Surratt and he said that I need to remove the widebands from my headers and calibrate them in the free AIR like the instructions I TAPED right on the freakin BOX and gave to the shop...I guess they shose to ignore them!!!!

So the other day I jacked the car up and was going to take the widebands out to calibrate them. Keep in mind I told them to REMOVE my primary O2 sensors from the headers and place the widebands in their position so I can get accurate readings on each bank and weld bungs in the y-pipe and place primaries there just so I dont throw codes. This is what I found when I got under the car.

REAR CATTMAN HEADERS with STOCK O2 SENSOR PRIMARIES STILL IN:



FRONT HEADERS with STOCK O2 SENSORS STILL IN!!!!!:



WIDEBANDS WELDED INTO REAR OF Y-PIPE!!!!!! SEE STOCK SENSOR IN REAR HEADER ABOVE!!!!!



HALTECH WIDEBAND WELDED FAR FROM FRONT HEADERS IN y-PIPE!!! STOCK O2 SENSORS STILL IN FRONT HEADER 2 miles AWAY!!!!



I guess they were TOO DAM LAZY to remove the stock O2 sensors from the headers and put widebands there!! No wonder my AFR is way off and TUNE way off. On top of not calibrating widebands LAZY BUMBS put them in the y-pipe and I SPECIFICALLY TOLD them EXACTLY WHAT I WANTED!!!!!!!!!!

This is my warning to everyone out here: All these shops out here claim they the best and they know this and that!!! BE CAREFUL!!! Check the work they do with a fine tooth comb!!!! Dont trust NONE OF THEM!!! MOST OF THESE shops just want your money!!! Freaking BUMBS!!!!! I was so disturbed by what I saw I just put the car down and decided to forget it. Im not even driving the car anymore. Taking it next week to get the turbo installed and this local shop does things right and they will swap the widebands with stock primaries!!!!

 

OK decided to keep the non-turbo part of the build in the all-motor post.....that way only turbo stuff goes in my turbo build thread.

Anyway...went to shop today and they are really moving good. They got the fastbrake rear brake upgrade kit on and starting to work on the front brake upgrade kit from racingbrake. They ran into a problem with the front kit because the adapter bracket holes were too small for the OEM bolt that holds the OEM caliper bracket in. The only thing I can think of is that kit says 2000-2003 Maxima front brake upgrade kit. I think they probably made the kit to fit the 2000-2001 Maxima and assumed it would fit the 02 and 03 but they probably don't know it has a different engine and the front brakes are probably bigger on the 5.5 gen than they are on the 5.0 gen so the bolts to the caliper are bigger. Anyway not a problem they are going to drill the bracket out and re-tap the bracket to accept the stock screw and move on....GLAD I did not try to do that myself I would have been pissed!!! Called Racing Brake and they could not understand why it didn't fit so I explained my reason why I think it didnt. I think they need a front brake kit for the 2000-2001 Maxima and a separate one for the 02-03 Maxima. they are obviously not the same. Here are some pics of the rear and part of the front...they are not done with fronts yet:

FASTBRAKE REAR BRAKE UPGRADE KIT:



TOP VIEW REAR BRAKE KIT:



REAR BRAKE KIT (with stainless steel brakelines):



CLOSEUP STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES:



ANOTHER VIEW STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES REAR:



Racing Brake Front Brake Upgrade Rotor on car:




They also got the Mishimoto Radiator in with the 12" blue slim fans, special blue radiator cap and Candy Blue Powdercoated upper radiator mounts!! Looks fresh. Now they have to install the upper flex radiator hose with the candy blue ends and it will really pop out!!!

OUTSIDE CAR:



INSIDE CAR VIEW:



Still have to replace stock plugs with one step colder plugs, put spacer on IM. I also bought all new coolant lines and going to powder coat them candy blue as well. They still have the stillen front lip to put on. Once they have all the all motor stuff done then they are going to start working on the turbo install.

 

That looks great bet it's gonna be real fun to drive!

 

Congrats on the progress. I'm glad to see that you are getting to the bottom of the issues.

 

Finally got the front brake kit on!!!

Drivers Side Front Brake Kit:



Passenger Side Front Brake Kit:



Rear View of Front Brake Kit: