UPDATE!!!!!

Just called the shop 5 mins ago and they got the car on the dyno as we speak!! Heard it in the background!!! DAYUM it sounded soooo good! He's been tuning it for the last 3 hours and they close to being done. He said he would personally email me the dyno and text me when its done later today!!!!

STAY TUNED!!!!

 

 

 

Ok....here it is......

280hp & 262ft-lbs

The shop just sent an email with peak numbers. I have no dyno or run files yet. Im out of town now. I asked them to mail runfiles so I cn see the graph before I get too disapointed.......maybe torgue holds all the way thrpugh and is relatively flat......interested in seeing hp gains at redline over previous dyno.....as it stands im disapointed but need to see the graph before I get too depressed relly though id hit 290.....whatever.

 

Wait till you get the run file!

There are a lot of factors in comparing dyno numbers!

Im betting you gained a lot under the curve, like Doug just posted in his dyno, his 5500+ was a huge difference. Peak numbers are not everything! Hitting the peak and holding it is far far far better then hitting peak and losing 20hp by redline!


Its gonna be very hard to get the older DE with stock cams into the 290's. Even with a custom intake manifold the Heads are holding the whole motor back. IMO It might be possible with more extreme mods.




Tell the shop to EMAIL you ASAP hahaah

 

I don't seee why you're dissapointed man. 280 peak hp is amazing on a stock cam 1st gen vq35 regardless of how you look at it. You've addressed all of the biggest bottlenecks in this motor exept for one, The heads. Considering that you are now battling the stock cams restricting power for you (especially up top I assume), I think this is a huge achievment. I'm willing to bet that the power starts to level off around the 5k area still even with that intake manifold. But not as drastically as it would have with the stock IM.

Did they play with the intake cams while tuning? If they did, I'm curious to see how your low end was affected compared to your previous run.

 

280 is nothing to shake a stick at. That's pretty good for a stock head/cam DE.

 

Damn good numbers for stock engine without head work!

4k more in headwork to put down 300ish on a DE

8k in head and engine build na 315?

5k on a turbo to put down 400+whp

12k on a 4.1l NA stroker to put down 340-350whp

Looks like the newer engine swap is the way to go for NA, it is the best bang for buck so far...

Surra I would love to see c8s and an 8k redline dyno!

 

I choose this option ^ more BANG for the buck!!

 

UPDATE!!!
'
So Im sittin here a little disappointed in the 280hp/262ft-lb peak numbers.....and Im like OK ok. Im looking at everyones encouraging posts and Im thinking. Its not bad. I just wanted that number one spot(Im competitive). So I finally just ate my pride and was like "Oh well, its going to be turbo anyway who cares."

So I send my tuner a message on Facebook thanking them for tuning my car and how they took care of me answering all my questions and all. I told him I thought it would do more than 280hp but thats OK. I told him I guess if I want more hp then I will just have to go turbo!

He sent me a message back and I QUOTE:

"It`s not done yet my friend "

Here we go!!!! There's more??? WHA??? DAYUM!!!!!

EDIT: So he sends me the HP curve over my previous curve...WOW!!! Theres more to go??? Good grief!!! Gains all through rpm range!!



NOW I CANT SLEEP, TOO EXCITED!!!!!! TIME FOR BLACK OPS!!!!

Stay tuned!!!!!!!!

 

Can you convert that to rpm please.

 

I wish I could. That is how the tuner sent it to me. It was basically a screenprint. I dont have the runfiles so I cant do that. I wonder why people put that in MPH? What is the benefit of that over rpm? Anyway, after today I should have runfiles and final dyno numbers. He told me "I got more to go tomorrow still and also need to clean it up a little." So he's not even done from what he saying. Also if you look at that its run#13. Im sure he did more than 13 pulls. After 13 pulls I got 280? Im not tuner but I would think you need more than 13 pulls to get a really good tune. But he did lay curve over previous so I can look at my other curve and kind of determine where the rpm is. He hasnt even increased the rev limiter to 7k like he said. I can see graph stops exactly where the other one did......so yeah, he has more to go.

 

And also correct it and turn the smoothing to 5
Welp i quote myself again lol... i catch so much heat when i try to be realistic... seems like i almost hit the nail on the head, i can only assume with corrections and final tune for you to be in the 280's i guess... just about the same numbers as a UTEC lol

 

Honestly those numbers are exactly what I was expecting. And maybe he could have achieved them with using a Utec however the haltech is still a better system even with the price being higher for the unit. Plus his car is now running on dual wideband o2 sensors instead of the stock narrowband sensors and the haltech is in full control of the engine unlike the utec.

When he goes F/I, things will only become simpler and that much smoother. I remember hating the transition between on/off boost with the utec.

 

Yeah, the whole point of hte Haltech was a smoother tune and better unit that wont "FIGHT" with the stock ECU like the UTEC does. Like, shift says, Haltech is in FULL control. ECU there just to control windows and winshield wiper crap....lol. the engine now belongs to the Haltech. I dont know if he has touched VTC yet or anything. 280 at 13 pulls is pretty good. I dont know if he has more timing to adjust or what. He was just like Got more to do tomorrow. Who knows. Even I only get an extra 2 hp the difference in the drivability is going to be DRAMATIC. Its all good. Even if UTECs make same power Haltech will always be a better ECU hands down. No misfires, no loss maps, no fighting ecu, nothing. Much better unit! Thats why UTEC discontinued and Haltech is not.

 

mmmmhm.. suure buddy... when i call out a reasonable number i get a bunch crap saying im wrong because this or that

 

I never gave you crap for your guess.

 

Nah bro. You called it, so far. Can't debate with that. Good guess. You should go on the price is right!!! You'd make alot of loot and win he showcase and........A BRAND NEW CAR!!!! LOLOL!

 

Like i told you I havent had an issue with my utec at all. And on the front of thinking that he zzd out my maps, you were there when frank said he thought hed erased it, but it was there. Just with the 3 inch maf to 3.5 inch maf it ran the voltage that crazy on the maf.

I see it as this. There will always be new tech. Something is going to always be a step forward. Had i not done this so long ago Id be on the haltech. But as it sits now, i can pretty much do the same with utec and vmanage for my build.
For what javons doing the haltech is damn near necessary.

Hoping you hit your HP numbers bro. tuned in.

and denver. It isnt done. wait till its tuned smh

 

The KING of the AUTO MAXIMAS has spoken!!!!!!!! LOL!!

 

@Cant get ryte - BTW...I dont think dude updating those top ten dyno numbers. You still not on the list yet bro....last time I checked.

 

not you moreso, i was just trying to be realistic when i make my predictions, i dont wanna go through the thread more than i just did to say "i told u so" lol but it only seemed about accurate, i cant remember who was going back and forth with me (might not even been this thread really), i think i was explaining that this unit will provide similar gains to UTEC because the maxima has but so much things to tune to give an extreme difference in numbers... but i just didnt want people to get over hyped that now they got this "better" unit then it results to more numbers, tuning has gone so far now (especially for our cars which make great power with the limited timing components we have compared to newer VQ's)... this unit is like all others, SAFC was good until VAFC came out it was "so much better" and something else will follow... circle of the tuning life lol.. hope im not preaching...
, if it aint a E63 or G37 Sedan 6MT its gettn traded lmao

 

UTEC is fine for those who want something more than a fuel control unit, VAFC, Neo, etc and want to control ignition timing. So its not bad. Doug has had good experiences with it.

ORDER OF OPERATIONS:

4. Fuel control units (no ignition timing) SAFC, VAFC, Neo, etc...

3. Greddy emanage (ultimate or blue....hope u can read Japanese. Cam timing control with V(vagina)-manage separate unit purchase)

2. UTEC (no cam timing control....works more like a piggy back...intercepts stock ECU signal and tries to alter it)

1. HALTECH (EVERYTHING....TELLS the STOCK ECU "STFU I got this." and takes total control of engine...no altering signals, whatever Haltech says goes!!!! Much smoother tune...endless options)

UTEC is not bad. If there was no Haltech then I would have kept my UTEC. BUT Haltech is so much more smooth.

 

Pro-EFI

 

You can use that?? I know the 350z guys use that alot....

 

AEM FIC

 

Haltech=$$$$

Pro Efi=$$$$$$




lol Better off with a EMU over that thing

 

my buddy Kevin with the b15/VQ is using the Pro-EFI


and as well as myself

 

that can only retard timing not advance it. It was meant for boosted cars...so they can retard timing. No advance on that. worthless for all motor apps.

DAM BALLER SHOWOFFS....LOL!!!!

 

A dyno WB sensor can read up to a full point leaner if it's post-cat.

They were probably compensating for that.

Either way I don't think I've ever seen an n/a car gain hp going richer unless it was knocking.

 

I'd say more, I don't think the red car was running a 16:1 ratio @ WOT

 

OK the tuner emailed me and this is what he said about that A/F ratio:

"The dyno wideband doesn't work I use a eXternal one."

So I guess its some bogus reading from the dyno??? Im going to drive the car and look at the A/F ratio while Im driving and report back. He's a really good tuner and if he said that is all then that is all it can make. I'm happy!

 

Like you, I'm no tuner...not even close. But as I understand it the perfect Stoichiometric air-fuel ratio is 14.7:1. So I'd say your 14.8/14.9 is dead on.


Stoichiometric air-fuel ratios of common fuels

See also: Air–fuel ratio and Combustion
Fuel By mass [3] By volume [4] Percent fuel by mass
Gasoline 14.7 : 1 — 6.8%
Natural gas 17.2 : 1 9.7 : 1 5.8%
Propane (LP) 15.67 : 1 23.9 : 1 6.45%
Ethanol 9 : 1 — 11.1%
Methanol 6.47 : 1 — 15.6%
Hydrogen 34.3 : 1 2.39 : 1 2.9%
Diesel 14.5 : 1 0.094 : 1 6.8%

 

CORRECTION.....

I accidentally put up the 3rd gear pull dyno. The 4th gear pull dyno is the closer to 1:1 ratio and final numbers are:


PERFORMANCE MODS:

Cattman Headers
Cattman test pipe
3" Cattman catback exhaust
NWP Spacers
Stillen UD Pulley
SPEC Stage II Clutch
Fidanza Flywheel
Custom Intake Manifold
2009 Maxima Throttle Body
Custom intake piping with 6" AEM filter with Vstack
MAF Delete (tune MAP sensor)
Haltech 350z Platinum pro ECU with custom PnP harness
Haltech Dual Wideband Controller kit with 2 O2 sensors



OLD DYNO vs. NEW DYNO:



A bit disappointed.....but looks like great gains. Top end is AMAZINGLY imrpoved!! I had an issue with AFR showing 14.9 but the tuner said he did not use dyno wideband he used the Haltech wideband so that 14.9 AFR that was showing was bogus. Going to test drive the car today and see how it feels later around 5-6pm I should arrive back in PA.

I would like to thank SURRATT personally because he made all this possible with the Haltech PnP harness!! Also THANKS to everyone that gave me advice on my build (Shift_max, aackshun, Cant_get_ryte, Rochester, tunermaxima3000, etc) !!!! This forum has REALLY REALLY helped me out and I have learned TONS AND TONS just being here and reading!

Other than that this completes my LONG N/A journey. Now I know why people just go turbo....all that DAM money spent for little azz gains is for the birds!!! See yall in the induction forums!!!!!!!

 

Bought a Craftsman powdercoating gun offline.

Had some spare exhaust gaskets from Nissan laying around and decided to give it a first try run. Cleaned them off with Eastwood Prep spray. I used high gloss black and regular blue.

BEFORE:



AFTER (BLACK):



AFTER (BLUE):



HELL YEH!!! It's on now!!!! Those things look sweet!!! I think I might do my brake calipers in high gloss black now!!!!!

ANOTHER THING:

Remote Control LEDs.....TIME TO LIGHT IT UP!!!!! Night time meet ups just got a lot more interesting!!!!

 

Cool, I was debating about getting the Eastwood kit...I want to do small parts on mine as well...

 

Yeh, the only thinkg with the Eastwood powder guns is that you need air compressors. I dont have room in my apartment for an air compressor. I actually think the craftsman is great for smaller things. No problem.

 

Powder coated parts look great. What did you use to cure them...toaster oven?

 

The wife's stove... shhh dont say anything. They were small parts anyway just for test. Going to buy a toaster over this week.

 

i dont know much about the haltech and i have some questions...

does the haltech control the engine in closed loop as well? or is it all pre-programmed maps based off of the maf and iat and tps etc...

someone mentioned that it uses dual widebands...im guessing for closed loop feedback purposes?

from what i gather, it completely controls the ignition and injector and vtc all the time. im assuming that the crank/cam sensors are still hooked up to the stock ECU to avoid a check engine light. the ecu still "thinks" it's controlling the engine.


does this mean that you will get a check engine light if you alter the cam timing too much?

if the stock narrowbands are replaced with widebands for the haltech, what do you do about the stock ECU throwing a CEL for the missing o2's? or does the haltech have a "simulated" narrow band output (similar to the innovate LC1) which can be fed into the stock ECU?

i also foresee the possibility of the fuel trims going crazy in the stock ECU over time, as the original feedback loop is broken (another possibility for a CEL).

if the HALTECH uses o2 feedback for closed loop purposes, that would really make it a great system.

and flame me all you want, but i prefer the EU over the UTEC for a boosted application and ive worked with both. the interface for the UTEC is annoying (hyper-terminal) and the EU has more I/O capabilities. the way i have my EU set up works flawlessly with my turbo as well. basically, i pull X amount of timing per PSI (detected by external map sensor). as far as fueling, i use the TPS as a reference for my injector PW map, only making changes above 40% throttle. the car actually doesnt even run lean below 40% because the MAF sensor detects the additional airflow, even with the turbo. (stock MAF gets maxed out at like 4000RPM at WOT, so under 40% throttle, it is extremely unlikely for it to get maxed out)



sorry for the questions/rant, im just curious.