george__

iTrader: (1)

I want the VQ35DE engine to handle 7200 rpm safely...

What's the most cost efficient solution for this? I need the least labour intense solution

vipervadim

iTrader: (10)

can be easy.. or not.. all depends on who's doing it, level of experience and desired final outcome/money spent/total time spent on project.

There's a way to do it right for longterm use/consistency, and there's a way to rev it safely if you do not plan to beat on it all of the time. It all depends on your intended use and your actual driving style. this needs to be addressed before you invest in parts/build it.

same formula for hybrid 3.5L/3.0L or full 3.5L timing (for a strictly 3.0L build, there is no ARP rod bolts option, only for 3.5L rods)

1. Rev-up oil pump = A MUST or BOOM after 7000!
2. ARP rod bolts AT THE MINIMUM (Eagle rods w/ARP bolts = longterm)
3. walbro fuel pump with thicker gauge +12V wiring, fused relay, direct ground (will keep fuel pump current steady at higher RPMs to supply the fuel pressure you will NEED at 6500+)

4. HR head studs/HR HEADGASKET + 35DE block coolant mod (this is very beneficial in the longterm)
5. HR valve springs = DO NOT want valve float at high RPMs (also longterm)

6. and finally the most important = PROPER TUNING so there's no shortage of fuel or timing at any given rpm, including datalogging the STFT, LTFT via OBDII scanner. You can forget about running any raised rev if this is not properly done.



I have # 1 2(ARP bolts) 3 and 6 on a stock N/A 04 3.5L that I built back in 07.

I also have stock 3.5L cams (9.5mm lift). If I had aftermarket cams I would definitely have opted for the HR valve springs in my build.

Over the years I changed cars due to rust, changed transmission for 5MT VLSD, changed clutches 4 times because I drive the car hard and enjoy it, my VQ35DE is still going strong today.



5MT 3rd gear does hit 120mph..

but stock Tach goes off by +(200-300) rpm when revving up there, that's only 7500 on the datalog. Highest datalogged RPM I ever went was 8125 just to see if IGN signal would keep firing past 8K on a stock 4gen ECU, and it does, tuned with Emanage Ultimate (was the best tuning solution for 3.0L timing at the time)..

Can use Nistune for much better results nowadays. (With EU I had to spend a lot of time fine tuning for the perfect changeover RPM at 6450->6500->6550 when stock fuel cut hits and gotta overdrive it with extra fuel)



Amount of work involved:

1. still need to take off the outer timing cover, upper oil pan, and remove/reset the timing after oil pump swap.

2. For ARP rod bolts you only need to take off the upper oil pan and windage tray. (part of 1's install) For rods install you need to fully disassemble the block, take off heads, both timing covers, get new rod bearings etc.

3. fuel pump access under the back seat, wiring under the carpet/on the side.. can do everything without removing the entire carpet.

4. Easy if you're already installing rods, and it required an engine teardown, and you put it together with new parts.

5. typically requires head dis-assembly. BUT you CAN replace the valve springs with the heads on, if you're going to bring each cylinder to TDC, fill the combustion chamber with compressed air via spark plug adapter, and replace the valve springs quickly with a handheld compressor. This CAN become somewhat dangerous IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING you can drop a valve inside the combustion chamber while changing springs - and then you must remove the head to get it out/reset.

6. Basically this is the most important part after your engine is mechanically assembled and deemed sound for break-in/driving by the builder.
Hire a reputable/capable tuner, as there are MANY parameters to tuning a car besides fuel trim and ignition timing.
Dyno tuning vs street tuning is a controversial subject, I prefer to do them both in conjunction, as dyno gives a visual representation of where the power lies and what settings net more HP at certain rpms. Then take a car after a dyno and run it on the street and you'll notice you still need to make a few changes as the dyno datalogged A/F run conditions vs street driving conditions are different. I drive my max on the street, not on the dyno, hence the street retune afterwards.


If you will be doing a 3.5L swap with 3.0 timing, you're already doing most of the work required to do # 1, 2(rod bolts), and possibly 5.


obviously this is only my opinion based on my own testing/experience. Just because it has worked for me doesn't mean you will have the same exact results.
I prefer to do all my own work because I'm knowledgeable, confident in my abilities, and know/understand that I will only have myself to blame if things go wrong.

vernk

Yea what viper said....... keep in mind with such things as the HR head gasket there is stuff that needs to be done other then just changing the gasket....... although I would say I put the cylinder at BDC cuz when you put the air on it, it will push the piston down, Jim Wolf does make a nice tool for dealing with the valves that works really well.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

As always awesomely informative viper.




I rev mine to 7100 and have been for the past 11 years with no ARP rod bolts and nothing done internally, not even a RU oil pump