How do i connect subs to my bose?
#2
grrrrr
i tried to post in the other forum, but they locked it while i was telling writing on how to do it....
Here is how to do so, assuming that you are near a walmart and a radioshack, or similar electronics part store....
Okay.....
First you will need to purchase the following:
From Walmart:
--------------
1100-Watt Car Amp Wiring Kit (saves you on having to upgrade later):
( http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...3A3947%3A96490 )
Ford/JBL and GM/Bose Speaker Level Converter:
( http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...3A3947%3A96490 )
Wire Tap Ins (saves on butchering stock wiring harness):
( http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...5Fid=64%2D3052 )
How To:
--------
First, you will want to use the tap ins and connect them to the rear speakers. If you look at the wires running into the lower speaker housing (Bose Amp) you will see there are 4 wires. The red and white wires are your + and - wires. The other wires, are your speaker wires. Use the tap ins to connect these to the speaker level converter. Since the BOSE speakers run at 1 to 2 Ohms, versus the stardard 4 Ohms that normal speakers run, you will use the converter to "turn up" the sub output aka volume level.
The speaker level converter will also allow you to connect to your sub via RCA connecters.
As far as your sub's remote wire, i recommend connecting to one of the red (+ power) wires of the rear speakers. Since the rear BOSE amps will not power up unless this wire is hot, your sub will not power up unless it is hot.
Remember, be careful, take your time, and everything will go just fine.
sorry in advance for not remembering the speaker + and - wires and their colors.
Here is how to do so, assuming that you are near a walmart and a radioshack, or similar electronics part store....
Okay.....
First you will need to purchase the following:
From Walmart:
--------------
1100-Watt Car Amp Wiring Kit (saves you on having to upgrade later):
( http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...3A3947%3A96490 )
Ford/JBL and GM/Bose Speaker Level Converter:
( http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...3A3947%3A96490 )
Wire Tap Ins (saves on butchering stock wiring harness):
( http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...5Fid=64%2D3052 )
How To:
--------
First, you will want to use the tap ins and connect them to the rear speakers. If you look at the wires running into the lower speaker housing (Bose Amp) you will see there are 4 wires. The red and white wires are your + and - wires. The other wires, are your speaker wires. Use the tap ins to connect these to the speaker level converter. Since the BOSE speakers run at 1 to 2 Ohms, versus the stardard 4 Ohms that normal speakers run, you will use the converter to "turn up" the sub output aka volume level.
The speaker level converter will also allow you to connect to your sub via RCA connecters.
As far as your sub's remote wire, i recommend connecting to one of the red (+ power) wires of the rear speakers. Since the rear BOSE amps will not power up unless this wire is hot, your sub will not power up unless it is hot.
Remember, be careful, take your time, and everything will go just fine.
sorry in advance for not remembering the speaker + and - wires and their colors.
#4
Do us all a favor - please don't go to wal-mart. go to a car audio store and get the amp wiring kit from them. they will sell you high-quality wiring (such as rockford or mtx). will be better on your speakers and deliver better power.
#6
Originally Posted by Fosgate Fan
i don't think it'll make that big of a difference. you're just basically buying the name IMO
In most cases, wire is wire. I've used expensive name brand wiring kits and cheap ones from Wal-Mart. The last two installs I've done have been with Wal-Mart wiring kits and I honestly couldn't tell a difference - other than name.
#7
Originally Posted by DougC84
Do us all a favor - please don't go to wal-mart. go to a car audio store and get the amp wiring kit from them. they will sell you high-quality wiring (such as rockford or mtx). will be better on your speakers and deliver better power.
I could understand if you were buying nitrogen purged, self contained wiring kits, like you can buy for high end home theater set-ups, but most people are not.
#8
IMO i would stay away from wall mart. You get what you pay for.....tru there is a markup o name brands but there is a reason for that.....
Oh and the quality of copper in the wire also makes a difference along with the wire insulation and design.
Oh and the quality of copper in the wire also makes a difference along with the wire insulation and design.
#9
many people use the wal-mart wire kits with stuff, haven't heard anyone complain
if you DO get another wire kit, don't ever pay more than $35 for one.. only reason i got another kit was that my local wal-mart didn't carry the wire kit and i didn't want to wait to order online, so i picked up a $50 kit but i talked the guy down to $35.. the fuse holder looks prettier on this kit
if you DO get another wire kit, don't ever pay more than $35 for one.. only reason i got another kit was that my local wal-mart didn't carry the wire kit and i didn't want to wait to order online, so i picked up a $50 kit but i talked the guy down to $35.. the fuse holder looks prettier on this kit
#10
Originally Posted by VQvroom
IMO i would stay away from wall mart. You get what you pay for.....tru there is a markup o name brands but there is a reason for that.....
Oh and the quality of copper in the wire also makes a difference along with the wire insulation and design.
Oh and the quality of copper in the wire also makes a difference along with the wire insulation and design.
Now look, im not a teacher, so please dont make me school you.
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