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how to seal a leak????

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Old 12-26-2003, 10:38 PM
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how to seal a leak????

in a sub box. the leak is where the screws are. i had to install my sub like three times so the hole became bigger and now the screw will not hold how can i fix this??? should i just get thicker screws??? or plug all the holes up and drill in a different spot???
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Old 12-26-2003, 11:13 PM
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try to turn the sub a little to get wood that hasn't been drilled. in other words, don't try to use the same mounting holes.
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Old 12-26-2003, 11:46 PM
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That's why you should never screw a speaker into a box. The proper way to do is is to use bolts and t-nuts. What are t-nuts? T-nuts are like extra thick washers that have a threaded shank that a bolt threads into. And instead of having a flat and round portion, there are four spikes that dig into the medium as a bolt is tightened into it.

Once you tighten a speaker into the box once, the t-nuts stay in place. If you want to remove the speaker, simply remove the bolt, and the speaker comes out free. Want to reinstall it? Sure, just remount the speaker, and thread the bolts back into the t-nuts.
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Old 12-27-2003, 09:20 AM
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Well nuts are a high end version of T-nuts. They also reduce transmission of vibration from the sub frame to the enclosure.
 
Old 12-27-2003, 10:50 PM
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where can i buy ur nuts i mean t-nuts
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Old 12-28-2003, 08:44 AM
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You should be able to get either type at an Ace Hardware store. T-nuts might be available at Lowes or Home Depot, depends on the individual store.
 
Old 12-28-2003, 11:54 AM
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I bought mine from Home Depot. They are nothing special. It's just that most people not in the know, would never think to use them.

Just make sure you buy bolts that will be of the proper diameter, and head design, as well as length. If the bolts can only be found too long, no big deal, just cut them shorter.
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Old 01-01-2004, 05:03 PM
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can u use this after drilling th wholes or am i to late???

thanks
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Old 01-01-2004, 06:48 PM
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Depends on how large the holes are drilled now. Most T-nuts and well-nuts require a larger hole than normal. And MDF is too soft for a standard T-nut. If you overtighten a 1/4 turn it will rip the mdf to shreds. A fairly small screw can hold your sub tightly with T-nuts or well nuts. With well-nuts I am using 8/32 screws to hold a 48 lb sub that is capable of displaceing over 5 liters per stroke. I just use a washer under the head of hte screw. I actually found some inserts that go down inside the frame of the woofer and flatten out like a washer. Works great. They are called shoulder washers. Here is a part number from McMaster Carr, 90061A009 and 90062A009. Here is the well-nut part number, 93495A130.
 
Old 01-01-2004, 09:10 PM
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I have a JBL 1500 GTi, and have taken mine off and reinstalled multiple times now. And the t-nuts have not budged since the initial install. Once they dig in, they aren't going anywhere, unless you try to remove them.
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Old 01-01-2004, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Sin
I have a JBL 1500 GTi, and have taken mine off and reinstalled multiple times now. And the t-nuts have not budged since the initial install. Once they dig in, they aren't going anywhere, unless you try to remove them.
If it is in an MDF baffle just tighten it a wee bit further. They will rip the MDF like a child tearing open a christmas present. I've seen more than enough T-nuts come loose in the past two years. The well nuts are air tight and vibration dampeners.
 
Old 01-02-2004, 04:38 PM
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so well nuts are better right????
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Old 01-02-2004, 05:10 PM
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hay sin what is the best way to install the t nuts do i just drill a whole and then hammer it in or do i just put it in place and start to bolt it with the speaker i dont want to mess up my box since it was expensive
thanks
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Old 01-02-2004, 06:40 PM
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i just installed the tee nuts but i got bad results. there is not more of a leak since the tee nut is not flush with the wood. So there is a leak between the sub and the wood since the tee nut sticks out a tad bit. what can i do to fix this????

thanks
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Old 01-02-2004, 07:13 PM
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Sounds like you did not pre-drill the hole the specified diameter. You need to tap out the nut and redrill the hole tiny bit larger. Simply use a screw with the same threading as the nut and put it through the hole and start it into the nut. Set the nut over an empty region and tap the top of the screw with a hammer or block of wood. The T-nut should pop free. When you set the t-nut again put a large washer under the head of the screw. Then tighten untill the T-nut is set completley down in the wood.
 
Old 01-02-2004, 09:08 PM
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it was very hard to do it for some reason thanks for all the help. but i still could not get it flushed causing a leak. ill try again i dont understand about the washer part? sorry im kind of slow
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Old 01-02-2004, 09:14 PM
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The point of the washer is to keep the screw from leaving a large indentation in the MDF. MDF is very soft. Use the washer to spread out the force that will be applied by the screw. The T-nut will be drawn into the wood by the screw.
 
Old 01-05-2004, 04:29 PM
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Came across this old thread and thought I might add a suggestion. Use the "Hurricane nuts" available from parts express if you are working with MDF. Standard T nuts work OK in PLY but the MDF doesn't take too well to them.
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