I don't know anything about peak power, frequencies, rms or anything so maybe you guys can help me choose an amp that will pump my speakers.

Right now I have MB quart rsd 216 components in the front that is only powered by the HU right now and sounds pretty crappy.
Power Handling: 60-120 watts (not sure if this is rms or peak)
Impedence: 4 ohms
Sensitivity: 2,0 watts (90 db/1 m) (whatever that means)
Frequency response: 38-32.000 Hz
X over frequency: 2500 Hz
Crossover slope: 12/12 db/octave

For the rear Im probably getting the CDT cl-6x slim coaxials.
* Sensitivity: 90 dB
* Frequency Response: 60-20,000 Hz
* Recommended RMS Power: 40W
* Peak Power Handling: 80W
* Impedance: 4 ohms

From these specs can you guys help me choose an amp with the right power to push all 4 speakers. I don't need to know a specific brand, just the rms, channels, etc. Thanks.

 

Between 25 and infinite power per channel. Two channels are plenty for the full range speakers. You don't need an amp for the rear speakers unless you sit in back and sit looking out the rear window. Don't waste money on rear speakers. You don't sit backwards in movie theaters or concerts.

That is the honest response. Many 25 watt amps have more than enough power to push your speakers to their mechanical limit, or beyond. But some people love to have an additional 100 - 1000 watts that they will never use. Regardless of the size of amp you choose it will likely average 1-10 watts RMS output over it's lifetime.

That being said I would likely use a 35-60 watt per channel 2 channel amp. That gives 25 - 59 watts of headroom.

 

If I just use a 2 ch amp and amp my front speakers only, can I leave the rear speakers running off HU power and still be able to fade from front to rear?

 

With most of the headunits made in the past 10-15 years - yes.

 

is it a common thing for someone to just amp the front 2 speakers?

 

thanks for the response jmax....

ok lets see if you can answer this. I just got 2 12 inch audiobahns running off a pyramid crystal 2ch 1600 watt amp. I got it for free so im not complaining. well anyways, so with this amp plus another one pushing the speakers would I need an alt upgrade? My lights are dimming when the bass hits. Or, would I need a capacitor (1 farad?)? I heard caps are useless and just for show....what do you think?

 

the amp is drawing more current than it should, its not a class d amp, therefore its less efficient and requires large amounts current to run effectively. Before getting a cap or a high output alternator, i would consider getting a better amplifier.

 

Caps were brought into car audio because they are very effective at stiffening an amps power supply. But they are only effctive for music, not SPL burps. But there are a lot of steps you should take before adding a cap or anything else. If that amps is class A/B and can put out 1600 watts RMS, that's huge. You probably need a pair of 2 gauge cables to run from the battery to the amp. Or three 4 gauge cables. What is the model number of the amp and the web address for Pyramid?

It is normal in systems designed for the driver or front seat occupants to amp only the front speakers. It is impossible to get rear fill in a car without a delay for the rear speakers. When rear speakers are used in a competition SQ system they are powered with smaller amps and / or faded almost off. You will even see unpowered speakers or just speaker grills in cars to create the illusion of more sound or sound coming from different locations. I haven't used rear speakers in at least 5 years.

 

The amp that is pushing the 2 12 inch 500 watts rms audiobahns is the:

Pyramid Crystal Series #PB1281X
2-Channel 1600 Watt Amp
* 1 X 1600 watts bridged max power
* 2 X 800 watts max power
* 2 X 400 watts RMS
* Mosfet power supply
* Built-in variable hi/low crossover

http://www.pyramidcaraudio.com/

My brother just gave me his old pioneer amp that I will most likely run the components and leave the stock rears running off the HU. The specs are:

Pioneer GM-X252
40 x 2 watts rms
200 watts max

With these two amps, it'll be 880 watts rms. I'm running a 4 gauge power wire right now that will split from a dist. block into two 8 gauge wires leading to the amps. Will this work? An alternator upgrade sounds good but its cold, wet, and snowy outside and I don't want to pay someone to do it.

 

I would cast my vote with both Nismo and Jmax.

You really need to consider a better amp before you spend more money on a cap. You also need to have proper gauge wire feeding the amps and grounding it. You will get lights dimming when the demand exceeds the supply. Bass notes are voltage heavy and therefore require the amp to work harder to reproduce the notes. The cap will usually remedy this situation most economically.

To the people that are telling you guys caps are for show only.....run the other way from them. They either A) never used one; or B) don't know what they are talking about. Caps work. As long as you have everything else in place. The cap will not be your solution if you still run 8ga cable to it. It's like trying to suck an olive thru a straw. Aint gonna work very good. Same thing with the amp.

1. Get a better amp
2. Get bigger power/ground cables and make good clean connections.
3. If you do 1 and 2 above and still get dimming, then get a cap.

 

The CDT's you mention are nice, and really do need an amp. They sound great and really "fill" the soundstage nicely, even if your in the front. If you carry rear passengers, they will thank you!

Just make sure that you have the amp set for HIGHPASS on those... they're not really bass-freaks.

G