Fiberglass flase floor and sub trim cover.
#1
Moderator running more PSI than all the boosted Maximas... combined
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,345
Fiberglass false floor and sub trim cover.
I want to replace my existing carpeted panel and false floor with something pretty. Yes, weight saving would be nice. I have been reading http://www.fibreglast.com/. Thanks to jmax for the link. Currently, my false floor is made out of birch plywood. I don't remember the thickness but it's stiff enough for my need. First, I was going to build a frame and streach fleece material to start out with. But after thinking about it more, it's not really a complex shape. It's just flat. So, why can't I just redo the flase wood floor with a thinner piece of plywood. Then LAMINATING with fiberglass strand mats/resin for the addded strength and appearance. How's that sound?
#2
I'm sorry this may not be a complete answer to your question, but curved fiberglass is much stronger than flat fiberglass. Most people who make boxes that have glass in it use wood for any long flat areas for that reason.
Have you considered just finishing/beautifyng the solid piece of wood you already have?
either way...best luck and post pics
Have you considered just finishing/beautifyng the solid piece of wood you already have?
either way...best luck and post pics
#3
Moderator running more PSI than all the boosted Maximas... combined
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,345
I did read that some where. Flat piece fiberglass is going to be weak. That's the reason I want to use wood as a starting point instead of just fleece. If I use 1/2" piece of plywood with two layers of glass. Wouldn't that be stiff enough in comparison to a piece of 3/4" plywood or MDF?
#5
Moderator running more PSI than all the boosted Maximas... combined
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,345
Oh....both panels are for cosmetic purpose. I'll just post some pics so I don't have to describe it. The box is made out of MDF. There is a panel that goes over it. The false floor is just a false floor. I think now you can get a idea what I'm trying to do. I just want to keep it simple but yet add some color.
#7
Moderator running more PSI than all the boosted Maximas... combined
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,345
Don...you mean the stuff that you can get at home depot for resurfacing counter tops?
Originally Posted by Pearl96Max
Why not just try Formica or a sililar laminate? Very quick and easy. A simple cutting tool for rough dimensions and then use the router for the edges...
Just a thought.
--Don
Just a thought.
--Don
#8
I tend to get a bit irritable
iTrader: (151)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 17,671
Originally Posted by 1MAX2NV
Don...you mean the stuff that you can get at home depot for resurfacing counter tops?
Yup...pretty cheap and very easy o work with. A 4X8 sheet should run about $45. More than enough to do both pieces.
--Don
#9
Originally Posted by Pearl96Max
Yup...pretty cheap and very easy o work with. A 4X8 sheet should run about $45. More than enough to do both pieces.
--Don
--Don
yea u can check out the box i did for manny using formica:
http://jerk.lxanyc.com/Manny's%20Formica-Plexi%20Box/index.html
#11
Moderator running more PSI than all the boosted Maximas... combined
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,345
I want bright paint. I like that super smooth glossy look.
Originally Posted by BBOYSTEVIE
If it's not part of a sub enclosure, you don't have any real concerns about structural integrity. Keep it simple and cheap. You want the final product to be vinyl? bright paint?
#12
I've never done this, but I do know that you can get wood to look like that.
The key is to start off sealing the wood with like a
http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=10
If you don't seal it the primer and paint will just get sucked up.
So seal it prime it paint it clear coat it after that just like you would glass.
If I ever wanted to get this look, I think I would first try getting it totally sanded smooth and sealed so it's ready for prime, paint...., and bring it to body shops and offer them a few bucks to do it. What would be a total new experience and difficult to me would be the quickest and easiest $50-$100 bucks for them. If you want it to match your car or a certain color, I'm sure you could bring it and they would be pretty good at matching it.
I think going with 1/2" thick MDF for the floor (that will be plenty solid being that no part of this floor is part of a sub enclosure) will give you plenty of structural integrity.
The key is to start off sealing the wood with like a
http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=10
If you don't seal it the primer and paint will just get sucked up.
So seal it prime it paint it clear coat it after that just like you would glass.
If I ever wanted to get this look, I think I would first try getting it totally sanded smooth and sealed so it's ready for prime, paint...., and bring it to body shops and offer them a few bucks to do it. What would be a total new experience and difficult to me would be the quickest and easiest $50-$100 bucks for them. If you want it to match your car or a certain color, I'm sure you could bring it and they would be pretty good at matching it.
I think going with 1/2" thick MDF for the floor (that will be plenty solid being that no part of this floor is part of a sub enclosure) will give you plenty of structural integrity.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
My Coffee
New Member Introductions
15
06-06-2017 02:01 PM