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need some help making my first box...

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Old Sep 26, 2004 | 12:43 PM
  #1  
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need some help making my first box...

hey guys. I got one 10in Phoenix Gold Titanium Sub. And i'm planning on making a sealed box for it. This is gonna be my first box, and i got a few questions.

First of all, in the instruction manual, the recommended dimensions for the sealed box are .55 for "Musical" and .3 for SPL. I've always thought that for spl you needed a larger diameter, but anyway. Since i have only one 10, i want to have my sub be able to hit harder when i want it to, so i was thinking about making a box that's .5 cubic feet. Is that a good decision, or should or would you recommend another size.

Another thing is, Phoenix Gold recommends that you use 1" MDF for the box. I couldn't find it in any local store, so i'm just gonna use 3/4. Do you think i should double up for the front wall, and make it 1.5", or will 3/4 do?

Also how do you make up for sub displacement? The mounting dimensions are: Mounting Depth - 6 5/8, and Mounting Diameter - 9 3/16. How many square inches should i adjust my box by to make up for this?

Thanks in advance for your responses!
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 07:30 AM
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none of you guys have any input?
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 08:54 AM
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In that paper you got w/ the sub, it should say how much displacement the woofer takes up. Just added that displacement to the box displacement you want to run. IE. if the sub takes up ~0.08 cuft. Just make the box 0.58 cuft. I think 3/4 mdf will do just fine for that 10.
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 01:47 PM
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use 3/4 mdf stuff it with polyfill and make the box size either .7 or .9 pending on power and if you like low low bass. i used to have these subs in a cube each (no fill) and they dropped lower than any 12's ive heard yet... until i build a bigger box for my shivas.
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 01:49 PM
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I've figured out how to calculate the volume. But i'm still wondering why is the SQ box size bigger than the SPL size. It seems like in all other subs those values are switched. Could it be a mistake in the manual?
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 01:57 PM
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no its not. its because the smaller the box the higher the frequency peaks at. like in the sq box lets say at 55hz its 106 db. well in the smaller box its like 108. now at 40hz its 104 in the big box and 102 in the small. these #'s are completely off the wall but you get the idea. i say go with an sq box an enjoy some sweet low end. i have a video of my 10's if you want to see em moving.
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 02:36 PM
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Here's what slickrick said along with a graph:
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=29

-Robert
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 05:32 PM
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thanks for the reply's everybody. Hey slick rick, can you give me a link to see those videos. I didn't find a webpage in your profile. Thanks again!
Old Sep 27, 2004 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by exardus
thanks for the reply's everybody. Hey slick rick, can you give me a link to see those videos. I didn't find a webpage in your profile. Thanks again!
i had a link on soundillusions but the guy isnt hosting it anymore. if you'd like give me your email and ill send it.
Old Sep 29, 2004 | 09:50 PM
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Yes, a smaller sealed box gives higher spl. What you are thinking of is a ported box, which generally yeilds higher spl with a bigger box. Use a good carpenter's glue and some drywall screws with 3/4" mdf and you'll be fine.
Old Sep 30, 2004 | 08:59 AM
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if i get a hold of a jig saw, i'll make a box today. Do you think it would be sufficient to just use drywall screws, and seal it with silicone from the inside. The thing is, i don't have any clamps to secure the box in place when gluing it.
Old Sep 30, 2004 | 10:45 AM
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use LIQUID NAILS to glue the box together!!!

Nothing else comes close.

Silicone will only seal it, the box really needs to be glued.

Its pretty easy to glue the box together, you just glue it and then screw the 2 sections together, and move on. Dont glue the whole thing and then screw it together.

Get the LIQUID NAILS inside of the seams, dont just line the pieces with it like you would too seal something.
Old Sep 30, 2004 | 09:23 PM
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Make sure you make your cuts perfect and remember to account for the size of your cutting blade. Yes, you must glue the box as the glue is what really holds the box together. You don't really need clamps because the screws are there to keep the box together while the glue dries. You probably will need clamps for when you cut the wood though.

Polyfil from a crafts store will "fool" the sub and make the box act as if it was bigger, more space efficiency.

Make sure you drill out small pilot holes where you plan to place your drywall screws because 3/4" MDF will split rather easily.

Don't use silicone sealant in a poorly ventilated area because you will get all loopy and kill some brain cells like I did the first time haha.

--dave
Old Oct 1, 2004 | 11:27 AM
  #14  
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i cut my wood yesterday. I will need to go with at it with some sandpaper to make the pieces fit flush. But what size drill should i use to drill the holes, and also will a BlackAndDecker jig saw work for cutting out the speaker, and connector holes?

Also, do you need to brace a box this small?
Old Oct 1, 2004 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by DJ Kontakt
use LIQUID NAILS to glue the box together!!!

Nothing else comes close.

Silicone will only seal it, the box really needs to be glued.

Its pretty easy to glue the box together, you just glue it and then screw the 2 sections together, and move on. Dont glue the whole thing and then screw it together.

Get the LIQUID NAILS inside of the seams, dont just line the pieces with it like you would too seal something.
wtf are you talking about liquid nails. PL Construction Adhesive is the best for MDF because it is a polyurethane glue and liquid nails is not. polyurethane is used in the manufacturing of MDF to glue the fibers together. i'd rather use a polyurethane glue because they dont manufacture MDF with liquid nails, they use polyurethane.
Old Oct 1, 2004 | 05:53 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by friendhasmax
wtf are you talking about liquid nails.
have fun playing with polyurethane glue....

It is completely not needed in this application, will be more of a pain in the butt to use, and might be more expensive.

This is a box for a 10" sub, not some crazy thing none of us have heard of.

He doesnt need to fuse the MDF together.

I run a shop and we use LIQUID NAILS. All of the shops I have worked at use the same, all of the shops i have been to use the same.

Maybe its just my part of the country that uses this "Liquid nails" product.

Have you ever used liquid nails?
Old Oct 1, 2004 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by DJ Kontakt
have fun playing with polyurethane glue....

It is completely not needed in this application, will be more of a pain in the butt to use, and might be more expensive.

This is a box for a 10" sub, not some crazy thing none of us have heard of.

He doesnt need to fuse the MDF together.

I run a shop and we use LIQUID NAILS. All of the shops I have worked at use the same, all of the shops i have been to use the same.

Maybe its just my part of the country that uses this "Liquid nails" product.

Have you ever used liquid nails?
of course i have used liquid nails. you said that it is the best product to use though, and that is not the case. the polyurethane adhesive comes in the same tube as liquid nails so how is it harder to work with? it's made specifically for MDF so why would it be such a pain to use? and no, it is not more expensive, you can find it right next to liquid nails at home depot. i bet you never knew it existed because everyone is obsessed with liquid nails. don't get me wrong, it is perfectly fine to use liquid nails, the polyurethane based adhesive just forms a better bond, that's all. i don't mean this to be mean or anything. it's just information. hope i didn't offend you or **** you off dude. if i did then i appologize.
Old Oct 2, 2004 | 10:19 AM
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Nah Im not mad. Im just always up for a good online argument

I find liquid nails easier to work with if you make a mistake.
Old Oct 2, 2004 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by DJ Kontakt
Nah Im not mad. Im just always up for a good online argument

I find liquid nails easier to work with if you make a mistake.
im not used to making mistakes

lol...j/k
Old Oct 2, 2004 | 10:56 AM
  #20  
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there are many carpenter's glues that are much easier to work with and work better then liquid nails. I don't really have a preference, as long as it holds

btw, if you seal the box with silicone, let it dry for 24 hours before putting the sub in. The fumes from curing silicone can eat at some cones and surrounds. not fun at all
Old Oct 3, 2004 | 01:28 PM
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excellent thread. I too am about to make a box for my adire shiva.
Old Oct 4, 2004 | 09:47 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by machinehead
btw, if you seal the box with silicone, let it dry for 24 hours before putting the sub in. The fumes from curing silicone can eat at some cones and surrounds. not fun at all
THATS VERY IMPORTANT INFORMATION.

I had to make sure we all see that!
Old Oct 7, 2004 | 10:31 AM
  #23  
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do you hae to wait for the glue to dry to seal the box with silicone. If so how long do you have to wait, i'm using liquid nails.
Old Oct 7, 2004 | 10:38 AM
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Liquid nails takes about 4 hours to dry well. You dont have to wait more than 45 minutes if you want to seal the box with silicone.
Old Oct 7, 2004 | 10:53 AM
  #25  
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also what kind of screws to you use to put in the speaker. None came with my sub. I'm using 3/4" mdf.
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