HOW-TO???? Route a Power Wire???
05-24-2005, 07:14 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 155
HOW-TO???? Route a Power Wire???
Im moving forward on Project Maxima and I need to know how to run a wire from my battery back to the trunk? Tell me what route you took for your wires...if you have photographs these will help!
OHHHHH YEA...It is going to be a very large diameter wire because I plan on adding either a huge (probly around 10 to 20 farad) cap or an isolater and second battery.
OHHHHH YEA...It is going to be a very large diameter wire because I plan on adding either a huge (probly around 10 to 20 farad) cap or an isolater and second battery.
05-24-2005, 07:28 PM
#2
Originally Posted by under5295
Im moving forward on Project Maxima and I need to know how to run a wire from my battery back to the trunk? Tell me what route you took for your wires...if you have photographs these will help!
OHHHHH YEA...It is going to be a very large diameter wire because I plan on adding either a huge (probly around 10 to 20 farad) cap or an isolater and second battery.
OHHHHH YEA...It is going to be a very large diameter wire because I plan on adding either a huge (probly around 10 to 20 farad) cap or an isolater and second battery.
That's retarded.
Are you competing in SPL or simply uneducated?
05-24-2005, 07:51 PM
#3
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,571
Well I used 0 guage on my setup and i drilled a hole through the firewall adn then led the wire down the side of the car under the carpet. From there I went under the bottom part of the back seat and around the metal frame supporting the back seat into the trunk.
05-24-2005, 08:04 PM
#6
Originally Posted by under5295
Way to be a TOOL bag cause you can afford to do things right...people like you **** me off.
05-25-2005, 02:30 PM
#7
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,571
Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
The best wire I woudl suggest using is the 1/0 Gauge from KnuKonceptz...it has argably the highest strand count and will allow for a much better electron flow = more juice to your boost.
i agree,,, that's what i got
05-26-2005, 02:44 AM
#9
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,771
Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
The best wire I woudl suggest using is the 1/0 Gauge from KnuKonceptz...it has argably the highest strand count and will allow for a much better electron flow = more juice to your boost.
Tony
05-26-2005, 04:01 AM
#10
Originally Posted by Tony Fernandes
Could you please explain to me how a particular guage of cable with a high strand count would lose any less voltage over a given length versus the same guage cable with a lower strand count?
Tony
Tony
I did not think it was all that hard.
05-26-2005, 07:38 AM
#12
I only have a 4 guage wire, but a 0/1 would probably fit through here, too. I went right alongside the hood release cable. Send the wire into the wheel well from the engine bay (you will see a large opening to put it through) and then through the existing hole in the firewall. You will have to modify the rubber gromets (sp?) a little bit to get the wire through there. I also used some silicone all around the gromet in the wheel well after running the wire.
You will see this once you remove the black plastic trim from inside the wheel well. Easiest way to do this is to take the wheel off. (Even though I left mine on for this.)
Once it's in the cabin, just run it under the trim at the edge of the carpet. Zip-tie it to the existing harness. The trim pieces are very simple to remove; you basically just pull up and they'll pop right out. Pull out the back seat and run it under there right to the trunk.
-Brian
You will see this once you remove the black plastic trim from inside the wheel well. Easiest way to do this is to take the wheel off. (Even though I left mine on for this.)
Once it's in the cabin, just run it under the trim at the edge of the carpet. Zip-tie it to the existing harness. The trim pieces are very simple to remove; you basically just pull up and they'll pop right out. Pull out the back seat and run it under there right to the trunk.
-Brian
05-26-2005, 12:04 PM
#13
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,771
Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
Total effective surface area. You can have two different 1/0 cables with the identical IDs...now, one cable has 3,500 strands, the other 2,500 strands. Assuming strands are of equivalent OD, then you now have a much larger surface area in the first cable for electron transfer.
I did not think it was all that hard.
I did not think it was all that hard.
The strand count of a wire has absolutley nothing to do with the wire's resistance. In fact, the more strands a wire has the more air spaces it will have between the strands...which still doesn't affect the "electron transfer" as you put it. If you had a 1/0 cable that was one huge, thick strand of copper, how do you think that would compare? I don't care how many times you devide up that thick strand (2500 or 10 bazillion) it's all the same amount of wire.
Strand count is only important for flexibility, not power loss. The more strands it has the easier it is to bend and mold.
Tony
05-26-2005, 01:37 PM
#14
I would recommend stinger expert 1/0 because it is VERY flexible and easy to work with but, it's pretty expensive. If you care more about price than looks and flexibility, I would recommend going to your local welding supply store and buying 1/0 welding cable. It's plain black and probably cost about $2.00/ft.
05-26-2005, 01:43 PM
#15
Originally Posted by Tony Fernandes
It may not have been all that hard, but it's also not correct.
The strand count of a wire has absolutley nothing to do with the wire's resistance. In fact, the more strands a wire has the more air spaces it will have between the strands...which still doesn't affect the "electron transfer" as you put it. If you had a 1/0 cable that was one huge, thick strand of copper, how do you think that would compare? I don't care how many times you devide up that thick strand (2500 or 10 bazillion) it's all the same amount of wire.
Strand count is only important for flexibility, not power loss. The more strands it has the easier it is to bend and mold.
Tony
The strand count of a wire has absolutley nothing to do with the wire's resistance. In fact, the more strands a wire has the more air spaces it will have between the strands...which still doesn't affect the "electron transfer" as you put it. If you had a 1/0 cable that was one huge, thick strand of copper, how do you think that would compare? I don't care how many times you devide up that thick strand (2500 or 10 bazillion) it's all the same amount of wire.
Strand count is only important for flexibility, not power loss. The more strands it has the easier it is to bend and mold.
Tony
Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
The most important thing about a good wire is how tightly its wound and the strand count.
I just failed to mention it here.
05-26-2005, 01:44 PM
#16
Originally Posted by 505max94se
I would recommend stinger expert 1/0 because it is VERY flexible and easy to work with but, it's pretty expensive. If you care more about price than looks and flexibility, I would recommend going to your local welding supply store and buying 1/0 welding cable. It's plain black and probably cost about $2.00/ft.
05-26-2005, 07:29 PM
#17
thanks for the help, was slightly diff on my 2 gen but it really made it look very clean
Originally Posted by TheBigDu
I only have a 4 guage wire, but a 0/1 would probably fit through here, too. I went right alongside the hood release cable. Send the wire into the wheel well from the engine bay (you will see a large opening to put it through) and then through the existing hole in the firewall. You will have to modify the rubber gromets (sp?) a little bit to get the wire through there. I also used some silicone all around the gromet in the wheel well after running the wire.
You will see this once you remove the black plastic trim from inside the wheel well. Easiest way to do this is to take the wheel off. (Even though I left mine on for this.)
Once it's in the cabin, just run it under the trim at the edge of the carpet. Zip-tie it to the existing harness. The trim pieces are very simple to remove; you basically just pull up and they'll pop right out. Pull out the back seat and run it under there right to the trunk.
-Brian
You will see this once you remove the black plastic trim from inside the wheel well. Easiest way to do this is to take the wheel off. (Even though I left mine on for this.)
Once it's in the cabin, just run it under the trim at the edge of the carpet. Zip-tie it to the existing harness. The trim pieces are very simple to remove; you basically just pull up and they'll pop right out. Pull out the back seat and run it under there right to the trunk.
-Brian
05-26-2005, 08:50 PM
#18
Sorry, I don't have a pic, but my Max is auto so I drilled right through where the clutch "template" is traced. I saw it on both sides of the firewall - under the carpet and in the engine bay. It looks like a 1.5" circle w/ two .25" circles on either side of the larger one.
Then I ran 4 AWG wire under the door sills and carpeting and the post between the front and rear doors and under the back seat and under the "wall" in the trunk seperating it from the rear seat.
As for the turn-on lead and signal cable I ran them down the passenger side in the same manner.
Hope this helps.
Then I ran 4 AWG wire under the door sills and carpeting and the post between the front and rear doors and under the back seat and under the "wall" in the trunk seperating it from the rear seat.
As for the turn-on lead and signal cable I ran them down the passenger side in the same manner.
Hope this helps.
05-26-2005, 10:22 PM
#20
Originally Posted by under5295
whats really good to use for sealing any holes drilled between the firewall and the cabin metal max or thebigdu?
05-27-2005, 09:24 AM
#24
Originally Posted by djfrestyl
almost got me excited
how about this. instead of a coke, do my LED's like tai's
haha
how about this. instead of a coke, do my LED's like tai's
haha
(1) I make the shifter lights for Meccanoble and install them
(2) Verify my new method of main switch lights works (see = NO messing with the OEM circutboard!)
(3) Install them in Tai's car
(4) Fabricate a better, brighter cluster using protoboard and 20,000MCD leds
I think in August I am going to start whoring myself out to NJ .orgers who want LEDs...if all goes accoring to plan, I will have LEDs in the air vents, door cups, window controls, and the instrument cluster.
...good times!
05-27-2005, 09:50 AM
#26
Originally Posted by Tony Fernandes
It may not have been all that hard, but it's also not correct.
The strand count of a wire has absolutley nothing to do with the wire's resistance. In fact, the more strands a wire has the more air spaces it will have between the strands...which still doesn't affect the "electron transfer" as you put it. If you had a 1/0 cable that was one huge, thick strand of copper, how do you think that would compare? I don't care how many times you devide up that thick strand (2500 or 10 bazillion) it's all the same amount of wire.
Strand count is only important for flexibility, not power loss. The more strands it has the easier it is to bend and mold.
Tony
The strand count of a wire has absolutley nothing to do with the wire's resistance. In fact, the more strands a wire has the more air spaces it will have between the strands...which still doesn't affect the "electron transfer" as you put it. If you had a 1/0 cable that was one huge, thick strand of copper, how do you think that would compare? I don't care how many times you devide up that thick strand (2500 or 10 bazillion) it's all the same amount of wire.
Strand count is only important for flexibility, not power loss. The more strands it has the easier it is to bend and mold.
Tony
05-27-2005, 10:14 AM
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,771
Originally Posted by TheBigDu
Wait. Electricity travels along the surface of the wire, not through it. So why does more surface area not make for less resistive/more conductive wire?
Tony
05-27-2005, 10:33 AM
#29
Originally Posted by Tony Fernandes
More surface area (cross sectional area would be a better term) WOULD make a less restrictive wire. But how can a stranded wire have more surface area than a solid one of the SAME diameter?
Tony
Tony
Are you done yet?
05-27-2005, 12:53 PM
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,771
Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
It never will. But you show me how the hell you would run a solid cable of pure copper through a car, Tony.
Are you done yet?
Are you done yet?
Tony
05-27-2005, 12:59 PM
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,771
Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
This thread has offically become the 'I DON'T CARE WHAT YOU THINK MAKES A WIRE GOOD LET ME PROVE YOU WRONG' thread
Tony
05-27-2005, 01:15 PM
#35
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,771
Originally Posted by Tony Fernandes
More surface area (cross sectional area would be a better term) WOULD make a less restrictive wire. But how can a stranded wire have more surface area than a solid one of the SAME diameter?
Tony
Tony
A wires resistance to current flow is based on it's cross sectional area. NOT surface area! The cross sectional area, usually measured in circular mils, is blind to the fact that the wire is a solid chunk of metal vs. finely cut into tiny little strands.
Also, your comment about electrons travelling along the surface of the wires is misplaced....and way beyond the scope of what we need to be discussing. It's a whole 'nother can of worms...
Tony
05-27-2005, 07:33 PM
#36
05-27-2005, 08:12 PM
#37
Originally Posted by Tony Fernandes
Well, no...not exactly. There was someone that suggested that more strands means better electricity flow. I wanted to make sure that everyone reading those words knew that it wasn't true. I mean, this IS a forum where people can learn about car audio and electronics, right? If you like a cable with lots of strands (include me in that group too, please) then that's fine. But don't kid yourself into thinking that you're getting more voltage to your amplifier or speakers than another guy that has the same guage wire with less strands.
Tony
Tony
05-28-2005, 02:34 AM
#38
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,771
Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
Good point. Tony, sorry if I seemed out of line, I can get pretty amped up at times.
Tony
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