Im moving forward on Project Maxima and I need to know how to run a wire from my battery back to the trunk? Tell me what route you took for your wires...if you have photographs these will help!


OHHHHH YEA...It is going to be a very large diameter wire because I plan on adding either a huge (probly around 10 to 20 farad) cap or an isolater and second battery.

 

That's retarded.

Are you competing in SPL or simply uneducated?

 

Well I used 0 guage on my setup and i drilled a hole through the firewall adn then led the wire down the side of the car under the carpet. From there I went under the bottom part of the back seat and around the metal frame supporting the back seat into the trunk.

 

The best wire I woudl suggest using is the 1/0 Gauge from KnuKonceptz...it has argably the highest strand count and will allow for a much better electron flow = more juice to your boost.

 

cool to good starts thanks___lets get some more input.

 

Idiot, did you ever consider how much MORE money you will save by running the correct wiring instead of buying a new alt and a 10-20 farad cap?

 

i agree,,, that's what i got

 

i ran all my wires down the driver side. i snaked it under the dash, down under the carpet, then straight back to the trunk tucked near the door sills.

 

Could you please explain to me how a particular guage of cable with a high strand count would lose any less voltage over a given length versus the same guage cable with a lower strand count?

Tony

 

Total effective surface area. You can have two different 1/0 cables with the identical IDs...now, one cable has 3,500 strands, the other 2,500 strands. Assuming strands are of equivalent OD, then you now have a much larger surface area in the first cable for electron transfer.

I did not think it was all that hard.

 

where is the best place to go throught the firewall please be descriptive

 

I only have a 4 guage wire, but a 0/1 would probably fit through here, too. I went right alongside the hood release cable. Send the wire into the wheel well from the engine bay (you will see a large opening to put it through) and then through the existing hole in the firewall. You will have to modify the rubber gromets (sp?) a little bit to get the wire through there. I also used some silicone all around the gromet in the wheel well after running the wire.

You will see this once you remove the black plastic trim from inside the wheel well. Easiest way to do this is to take the wheel off. (Even though I left mine on for this.)





Once it's in the cabin, just run it under the trim at the edge of the carpet. Zip-tie it to the existing harness. The trim pieces are very simple to remove; you basically just pull up and they'll pop right out. Pull out the back seat and run it under there right to the trunk.

-Brian

 

It may not have been all that hard, but it's also not correct.

The strand count of a wire has absolutley nothing to do with the wire's resistance. In fact, the more strands a wire has the more air spaces it will have between the strands...which still doesn't affect the "electron transfer" as you put it. If you had a 1/0 cable that was one huge, thick strand of copper, how do you think that would compare? I don't care how many times you devide up that thick strand (2500 or 10 bazillion) it's all the same amount of wire.

Strand count is only important for flexibility, not power loss. The more strands it has the easier it is to bend and mold.

Tony

 

I would recommend stinger expert 1/0 because it is VERY flexible and easy to work with but, it's pretty expensive. If you care more about price than looks and flexibility, I would recommend going to your local welding supply store and buying 1/0 welding cable. It's plain black and probably cost about $2.00/ft.

 

Yes, I know this. Hence why I have also said here:


I just failed to mention it here.

 

Costs less @ KnuKonceptz.com

 

thanks for the help, was slightly diff on my 2 gen but it really made it look very clean

 

Sorry, I don't have a pic, but my Max is auto so I drilled right through where the clutch "template" is traced. I saw it on both sides of the firewall - under the carpet and in the engine bay. It looks like a 1.5" circle w/ two .25" circles on either side of the larger one.
Then I ran 4 AWG wire under the door sills and carpeting and the post between the front and rear doors and under the back seat and under the "wall" in the trunk seperating it from the rear seat.
As for the turn-on lead and signal cable I ran them down the passenger side in the same manner.
Hope this helps.

 

whats really good to use for sealing any holes drilled between the firewall and the cabin metal max or thebigdu?

 

Just use some good ole' fashioned silicone from Home Depot or Lowe's. I like the Silicone II stuff made by DAP. You can buy it in a variety of container sizes and silicone colors.

 

i see $2.25 per foot as the price?

 

Ah, looks like you're right, Mr.Smithers. Seems I owe you a coke.

 

almost got me excited

how about this. instead of a coke, do my LED's like tai's

haha

 

Ok, after...

(1) I make the shifter lights for Meccanoble and install them
(2) Verify my new method of main switch lights works (see = NO messing with the OEM circutboard!)
(3) Install them in Tai's car
(4) Fabricate a better, brighter cluster using protoboard and 20,000MCD leds

I think in August I am going to start whoring myself out to NJ .orgers who want LEDs...if all goes accoring to plan, I will have LEDs in the air vents, door cups, window controls, and the instrument cluster.

...good times!

 

How tightly it's wound??? You'll have to explain that one to me as well!!!!! LOL

Tony

 

Wait. Electricity travels along the surface of the wire, not through it. So why does more surface area not make for less resistive/more conductive wire?

 

More surface area (cross sectional area would be a better term) WOULD make a less restrictive wire. But how can a stranded wire have more surface area than a solid one of the SAME diameter?

Tony

 

LOL - THE TIGHTER THE WIND, THE CLOSER THE WIRES, THE LESS AIR-SPACE - LOL

 

It never will. But you show me how the hell you would run a solid cable of pure copper through a car, Tony.

Are you done yet?

 

...with a comealong

 

...lol. Good one.

 

This thread has offically become the 'I DON'T CARE WHAT YOU THINK MAKES A WIRE GOOD LET ME PROVE YOU WRONG' thread

 

I never suggested you should! I was speaking in terms of resistance vs. number of strands. As I said before, the number of strands is beneficial for flexibility.

Tony

 

Well, no...not exactly. There was someone that suggested that more strands means better electricity flow. I wanted to make sure that everyone reading those words knew that it wasn't true. I mean, this IS a forum where people can learn about car audio and electronics, right? If you like a cable with lots of strands (include me in that group too, please) then that's fine. But don't kid yourself into thinking that you're getting more voltage to your amplifier or speakers than another guy that has the same guage wire with less strands.

Tony

 

Sorry. I didn't word this very well. My neighbor's dog kept barking so I got up to check the computer, wrote this, and then went back to bed.

A wires resistance to current flow is based on it's cross sectional area. NOT surface area! The cross sectional area, usually measured in circular mils, is blind to the fact that the wire is a solid chunk of metal vs. finely cut into tiny little strands.

Also, your comment about electrons travelling along the surface of the wires is misplaced....and way beyond the scope of what we need to be discussing. It's a whole 'nother can of worms...

Tony

 

or we could talk about how to route a power wire






Click here you will know what im talking about

 

Good point. Tony, sorry if I seemed out of line, I can get pretty amped up at times.

 

No...I'm the one that can get amped up!!! Plus, sometimes I don't know when to keep my mouth shut!!

Tony

 

this helped! thanks.