Just wanted to do a follow-up on the above post... I followed Housecor's write up for the rear deck and it was very helpful. I must say that if you have subs in your trunk (I have 2 10s), you should DEFINITELY do this. If you have the stock Bose sub, you should probably do it too. The rattle I heard on very low bass notes is now nearly totally gone. Makes my "system" much more enjoyable...I used to actually get embarassed when people heard the rattles. Even though it was a bit of a pain to rip the backseat and everything out, it definitely was worth doing in the end. I still have a problem with my rearview mirror though...I tried black electrical tape but it just fell off. Anybody have any good solutions for rearview mirror rattle?

 

Review pending for 90sqft of Luxury Liner, I'm ordering tomorrow.

 

You go MIA for all this time Dan and this is all you come back with? Wha teh ***?

 

HOLY WTF, thought you were dead or something.

 

wow, prodical son returns.

 

Who the hell is this guy?

 

Who the hell are these guys?

 

YOU Sir, are the man !!

 

Question answered?

 

Ninja mod edits ftl.

 

Buahahahaha

 

Need your opinion: I've got a 99 i30, what's the most bang for your buck on getting rid of road noise? Budget.. 100-150. I was thinking second skin audio sludge in the wheel wells and Damplifier in the doors and maybe on the wheel wells with any left over. Thoughts?

 

Noise only? Save another $100, get 90sqft of Luxury Liner. Stay away from wheel wells, it won't buy you much. Hit the floor, doors, EVERYWHERE you can from the interior. Double up on the floor if possible.

Sludge and Damplifier do wonders for creating great in-cabin acoustics, but not a significant amount to reduce ambient noise.

 

Well then...glad I asked. 90 sq ft + the adhesive comes up to 240 unshipped, bit out of budget.. think 36 sq ft would do? I'm thinking the doors and behind/under the back seat where it seems most of the road noise comes in through.

 

Another opinion is needed... I recently picked up an Image Dynamics 8" sub (ID8v3-D4) and paired it with my MTX 421D. I had forgotten how much my rear deck rattles, and now it's infinitely worse! I've been looking at Cascade Audio's VB for the deck, but I'm not sure to pick up VB2 or VB2HD, and whether to deaden the top or the top and bottom of the rear deck. I'm leaning towards VB2 for the top only... Thoughts? And where's a good place online to go (beside Parts Express)?

 

Fair enough.... thanks for that.

_________________
Kit Xenon

 

Seriously? Damn! Did the vibrations at least quiet down some?

 

I got it... Yeah, I'm only pushing 358W RMS, but it still rattles the rear deck like crazy. I'll likely try something in the next month or so.

 

I have 50' of deadener, Please name in order the places I need to put it. I know rear deck/back wall, doors, B & C pillars. Will 50' be enough? I have components in all doors and 1-12 in the trunk.

 

Rear Deck > Trunk lid > doors (front first)

Depends on how you apply it, but you will most likely run short.

Also, components in the rear doors? Why?

 

I know people that know people, I got a good deal so why not? Trunk lid makes that much difference?

 

Eh, comps in the rear is overkill and has imaging considerations that we've discussed in this forum ad nauseum.

Trunk lid makes a huge difference.

 

I can get a good deal on cow manure, doesnt mean I should waste my money on it.

 

Holy smokes, I disappear for a little while and come back to Metal being back here. What's new guys? Taiwan has had me MIA for a while now.

 

I've had really good luck using this stuff from parts express:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=268-035

I have had best luck using a hot air gun and a rubber roller, It's $25-$28 (depending if it's on sale or not) for a 27"x40" sheet.

How does that compare to the price of the other products?

 

Sorry... wrong place.

 

I'm gonna give Fatmat (Mega Mat) a shot in my trunk. I like the price and it supposedly is not the same as regular Fat Mat.

We'll see.

 

I'm going to try FatMat (Rattle Trap), also. I bought the 100 sq ft. bulk kit and the floor and hood liners. Won't be able to install for about 3 weeks.

 

When doing the doors, do you remove the moisture barrier, apply the mat to the door and then replace the moisture barrier on top of the mat?

I haven't even opened the door so I don't know how the plastic film applies.

 

Nix the moisture barrier. Use the deadener on the inside of the outer skin, then inside of the inner skin.

 

So you're saying don't use the moisture barrier at all (remove it) and apply deadener to both the inside of the door (sheet metal) and the inside of the door panel?

 

Yes, don't use the moisture barrier.

Apply deadener to the inside of the outer skin - you have to reach through the inside of the door to do this. Then apply deadener to the sheetmetal facing you when you remove the door panel. Careful not to cover the rods for the door trigger.

 

Gotcha, thanks.

Now I just need to narrow down what I'm going to deaden (besides the front doors and rear deck) and what deadener to choose.

 

Trunk lid. Make sure you get the trunk lid. Makes a world of a difference.

 

Worked with Dynomat extreme today.. seems like good stuff, I got it for free so cant complain. This stuff sticks really well and without a heat gun. I did my trunk lid so far. Still have to do the spare tire well area and rest of trunk. You guys all deaden your license plate?

 

I didn't deaden my license plate.

 

check your PM.

 

Damplifier. There is no comparison.

 

None received? I sent you one anyway.

 

Oh hell no you didnt.

Dan = Now disowned !