I'm too lazy to do it myself--plus I dont' think I'd do a good job. If only you didn't live so far away from DC . I asked them if I could provide my own product, and they said yes but they'd charge me more. Looks like they have a contract with HushMat.

 

They just wanna move product, and make money on it. You are getting hosed, don't be lazy, you're doors are quiet easy to do.

 

what about those tough areas like around wires and screws and things? Am I gonna have to cut many little squares at a time to go around those areas? Or can I just put the deadening on top?

 

It would be worth the trip from DC to have Don do it. It's only about a 3 hour drive.

 

yeah, I drove up there last summer for my install.

 

No sir, put it right over em. Its fairly simple ... think large stickers. Just remember in some tough spots heat can be your friend. Not needed, but you can benefit from it.

 

Here's some shots of my doors and trunk.. used the classic Raammat (these pics are from 2001, so the newer rammat stuff looks different. better than the stuff I installed). There's also a small video at the end showing the difference between the front and rear doors. I eventually put a couple layers in the rear doors, which REALLY cut down on road noise.
http://blehmco.com/pics/car/interior/stereo/dynamat/

total time involved was two weeknights and a full weekend day to strip the car, clean everything with soapy water and degreaser (so the stuff would stick.. car had 8 years of gunk on it).
you could do the same thing in a weekend by yourself or a full day if you had help.
It was also about 35-40 degrees when I did all that so I had to work everything with a heat gun.

 

Shame on you for leaving so many openings !

 

300 bucks to deaden the doors? damn! i got two layers of hushmat on each door and paid 120.

 

yeah but did that include labor too?

 

Im willing to bet Gordon did his own..

 

Don how much for enough Cascade to deaden my front doors? (product only)

 

Thanks a lot for posting a link of your sound deadening. Gives me a good idea of what Im in for, hopefully I can get some one in Jersey to help me out with this.

 

There isn't a soul in Jersey that would

 

Ah hah, I sense a little sarcasm there.. and that you would be willing to help out along with Don I know its a lot of work so food and drinks would be on me all day. :

 

They'll help, just pay them lots and lots of money

 

Hmmm I sense a little sarcasm there.. and that you would be willing to help out along with Don and besides with 3 guys it should be a cake walk. I know its alot of work food and drinks would be on me all day.

 

What the???

I've done 3 cars fully. Doors, roof, floor, trunk it's A LOT of work.

 

oops double post sorry. Lots of money heh....

 

Put it this way, to do a roof, and floor I would charge 200 alone, not including product since I don't sell product. I've had people willing to pay that no problem.

 

I know its alot of work.. Do you do them by yourself? Whats wrong with food and drinks to help a brother out. Even if I payed someone to do the job meaning Don or someone else , I would still be along side and help out. Im not lazy its just not in my nature. Besides it never hurts to ask for anythhing, the worst they could say is no. Or f@ck you pay me.

 

Well Don, for one, is a businessman, as is Nilesh to an extent haha. Time is money.

 

I completely understand that. But as I stated I would be doing the work also, so would that be considered half price for the install then? It dont feel this job requires any expert to do its just a lot of labor taking out seats, all carpeting , cleaning etc but I would be doing half the work and it would be a lot easier with 2 people and with someones whos done it before. Understand where Im coming from?

 

Completely understood. Dependent on what the job is and how much disassembly is required is what I'd charge.

My time is too scarce to be willing to hang out one day and just do the job for a fellow orger for nothing, but if they're willing to help, I'm always willing to work on the price.

Parag, your price quote is about par with what I'd charge.

 

Psssht not for me. I gots kids to feed and a mortgage to pay !

 

Thanks for the back up Don, I knew you'll take care of me nah just kidding. After I help do the front doors I'll probably get spoiled and see the improvement the sound deadening makes keeping outside noise out and I may just do the rear doors as well. I tell ya Don, your having me live above my means now . So now I understand why people are afraid to go see you.

 

i jus have a quick question, i got 2 12's and my trunk rattles like crazy,mostly my license plate, so i got some dynamat xtreme and i plan on doin the trunk lid tomorrow, im just looking for some adivce on how to go about doing the license plate the best way. it doesnt seem like theres alot of space for the dynamat inside the trunk lid, can i just cut a piece and stick it to the back of the plate? thanks

 

That's exactly what I did and it work.

BTW, has anyone had any good results from Edead's new stuff?

 

On my 5th gen, there is a rattle behind the drivers side rear sidemarker which is terrible. There was someone that had mentioned how to fix it over a year ago but i cant find the page or how to get behind there. Suggestions?

 

Ok, I'm pushing dyn 3 ways in the fronts, therefore, I have loud vocals up front which means I have a lot of bass I can push in the back. I'm currently running a budget setup of alpine mrd m1005 (1000 watts @ 2 ohms rms) and a kicker L7 in ported box (DVC 4 ohms ran @ 2 ohms) and the rattle i get in the trunk and rear deck is ridiculous as everyone already knows.

Went to Pearl96max for some sound deadening, what better than CASCADE. VERY sticky, very easy to work with. easy to cut through, and easy to apply, even for a sound deadening noob like me. Only advice needed is to prevent bubbles from forming. I followed housecer's instructions. Everything went well except seat belt reinstall. The dam things would not stretch out until i unscrewed them from bottom of seat and put them back in their normal position. I thought I broke them but they were just being hard headed...anyway, onto pictures!

 

SEAT BELT HOLDERS BEFORE ADDING CASCADE


TRUNK LID

 

The trunk lid could probably look more solid but I'm a rookie at this, I still noticed a HUGE DIFFERENCE!

My partner in crime


REAR DECK

 

FINISHED REAR DECK


I definitely noticed a big difference and would highly recommend doing this deadening for anyone that has a sub. System sounds much better without the echo rattles. BTW, I have 1 layer on trunk lid and 1 layer on rear deck. Trunk lid was completely naked before applying, not even carpet.

I still have a sheet, I may do the back seat but looking for the best place to put it since my supply is low.

 

Great job grasshopper. A few bubbles to iron out, otherwise great work !

 

I think it looks great Mec, good job bro. What about deadening the spare tire area and the perimeter of the trunk? When Im ready for my sub I'll be deadening the back as well.

 

yea i plan to do those in the future but i was too lazy to remove everything in trunk and knew i had to do lid and rear deck anyway....

plus i think the lid and rear deck will make a bigger difference than the trunk well...you can see and hear the movement from that trunk lid. Thanks for the compliments. Big difference though.

 

Quiet Car Review

I feel that this product is fantastic. The best way for me to describe it is that it is a mixture of dynamat and rhino-lining. Extra steps need to be taken to prepare for application as there is a bit of off-spray. I have personally used the product twice. First was on my last car which I only did the trunk but it was much better than the dynamat that I had previously installed in it as it covered every hard to get to spot. Most recently I have a 4th Gen that I completely stripped the entire interior of the car and doors and taped up all connections and what not and sprayed down the entire inside of the car. As I found out it is not incredibly neccessary as Nissan does quite well in the factory application of sound deadening materials but I was already comiited. It's a little more expensive and a bit more time consuming but if you are die hard about your sound quality then this is the way to go.

Total times for me:
1st Day: Preparation. Stripping all interior down to bare metal.
2nd Day: Taping. Covering all electrical connections, window tracks, windows, basically anything that shouldn't get covered in the material.
3rd/4th Days: Sprayed on material, 4 layers.
5th Day: Put all the **** back together.

Keep in mind that I was working on my own at a steady pace. It could be a bit quicker but I was in no rush.

I'll get some of the pics I took of it up here soon.

 

how much can I expect to sink cash-wise if I want to invest in some decent deadening for my 06 Max? Mine does not have the Bose system and I am really looking to eliminate the excess road noise I hear when driving to and from work every day. I think it would also improve the sound quality of my stereo

 

Your location would also help, because there is a shop owner as well as some freelance installers on this forum, so if youre lucky you'll happen to be in one of their areas.

 

I just ordered 20 sq. feet of Second Skin Damplifier to do the rear deck in my 5.5 gen because I can't stand the rattling anymore. I already did my trunk with Dynamat Xtreme and didn't notice a lot of difference with it. One other question that I haven't seen anybody ask is regarding the rearview mirror. I noticed that most of the rattle in my front end is coming from the rearview mirror. Whenever I squeeze the top and bottom together the rattles are totally gone. I barely have to apply any pressure and it makes a huge difference. I was thinking about maybe putting some electrical tape on the back of it to try to pull it together tighter, in hopes that it won't look tacky or noticeable. What have other people done to fix the rearview mirror rattle?