Alright so all in all I have spent a grand on the stereo system.
Pioneer 6700 HU
4 Blaupunkt 6.5" component Speaks
Bazooka 500w max amp
2 pioneer subs 600w max each

And it sounds like Sh*t.
It sounds like every time the bass hits the power surges and everything goes down a little bit. The back speaks dont sound anywhere near as loud as the front, and the tweeters have so much treble that they cause static even when the volume is low and the treble and mid levels are all the way down. The amp for 500w doesnt seem to be all that loud. I have heard cars with 250w amps that sound louder.

I used to have the Bose system...which is now completely removed..and all that speaks have been rewired to the HU. Somebody help. It sounds horrible, what can I do to fix this?

 

what model subs? you can spend a crapload on audio and if it's poorly installed it'll still sound bad. what box is your subs in? is it built to pioneer's specs? are the gains set properly? also, i doubt that bazooka amp is putting out the 500 watts that it claims it can. plus wattage isn't everything, the sub's enclosure plays a large role on how it sounds.

 

Ive never heard anything from Blaupunkt. And Pioneer subs arent the greatest thing out there. Not trying to be rude, but why blaupunkt/the other brands you chose?

 

I know blaupunkt is a good speaker. Its not the subs im really having the problem though. It seems to be speakers. Thats what im mainly focusing on.

 

are all the speakers in phase? double check all the wiring to see + is going to + and - to -.

 

Everything is wired correctly.

 

It may be a pain in the a$$ but recheck your wires. If I had to guess w/o standing over the car, I would say something is either wired out of phase, or the setting on either the amplifier or the HU is causing the issue.

my .02

 

yeah, just go back and recheck. speakers out of phase will cause some cancelation.

 

nope the wiring is perfect... Anything else that could be causing it?

 

Maybe the amp that powers the Blaupunkt's is cooked? Bazooka amps, I have never actually used one personally, but I see a ton of them on E-bay. That usually isn't a good sign. Do you have or know someone that can give you an amp to test this theory? This would atleast rule out the amp.

 

i think he's running the blaupunkts off the HU

 

maybe the head unit is broken

 

The blaupunkts are run off the HU...the pioneers off the bazooka. Everything is wired correctly.

 

If all the settings are correct and all the wires are correct then process of ellimination says it's the HU.

 

Make sure that you have all of the processing features off or flat. The easy EQ flat, the parametric EQ flat, the EQ-EX thing off(this gives the EQ's current settings a boost), the loudness off or at a low level, and the compression and BMX functions off.

I am not very familiar with this HU so I do not know if all of these function at the same time, but if they do, I can see how your sound can get a little messy. On the Crutchfield website it says that the treble and bass controls can be set independently of the 3 band parametric EQ, so this can be an issue where you are cutting the treble but mayby the EQ upper frequencies are boosted at the same time.

I do not know if that model has a reset button, if it does try it.

 

Buy a 4 channel amp and run them off your door speakers.You changed everything out might as well do it right for your door speakers.

 

It turns out everything is fine..the wiring was perfect like I had originally said...but, the negative wire of one of my back speakers was tapping the rear deck, causing a short, and somehow causing the problem I had.

 

I'm very upset with your brand comments lately. There is nothing wrong with Bazooka amps ... they've been making amps for years in their VERY well engineered tubes. You should know as well as anyone that brand generally doesn't matter as long as it's not SoundStorm, Pyle, Kraco, etc. Bazooka, JBL, DEI, Kenwood, Sony, all make decent equipment for the average consumer.

Now ... crutchfield had those plasticky blue Blaupunkt component speakers and those simply HAVE to sound poor. I never personally heard them ... but if you know the ones I'm talking about, you know why I feel this way.

That said ... you are right that it could be the amplifier, but at the same point it could be the speakers.

 

My speakers sound 10x better (not exaggerating) since I took them off of the HU's power and got them a decent amp. I don't imagine that they would have been able to perform well with the sound-output of a subwoofer, let alone two. I would guess that the best solution would be an amp for all of your component speakers. Seriously, mine sounded like completely different speakers when I added my amp. Don't listen to all these people who are telling you your brand-selection is what is causing the problem, that's bull, you can fix the problem. My guess would be that the subs hitting isn't actually causing the speakers to drop in performance but rather the subs are drowning out the sound of the speakers. If you can't afford an amp for the components, I would turn down the gain and lower the frequency on the subs' amp.

 

Lower the frequency? Cause theyre drowning out interiors? Ummm please explain what one has to do with the other.

 

Hey Big Ham, my sister's boyfriend actually bought those for his Jeep Cherokee . I think you are talking about the ones with the clear tweeter housing, right? I saw them and I reminded him about my Polk DB3065's and how I was going to darn near give them away to him. As it turned out they do not sound too bad . They sound OK, not great but better than the old OEM ones he had.

Him not getting my Polks was actually good for me as one of my Kicker Resolution (ND25a) tweeters was acting up, so I put in my old DB's back in .

 

If you narrow the frequency response down the bass will lose a lot of its rolling noise and will be punchier - allowing the component speakers to be more active on the sound stage. I like how you bashing my suggestion was so constructively aimed at helping this guy out.

 

I did 'bash' a thing, but changing a frequency will also affect how the sub performs. subs are supposed to be properly tuned, playing with that can also cause harm. If THAT is helping, then great.

BTW, please do Not think Im not aware of what you have been up to at all.

 

So "narrow the frequency response down", do you mean by using a crossover of some sort?

"the bass will lose a lot of its rolling noise and be punchier"
What do you mean rolling noise? Do you have any idea what you're talking about?

"allowing the component speaker to be more active on the soundstage"
Do you just bend over and type on the keyboard with the **** coming out of your butt? Speakers are never "more active on the soundstage". They may contribute more to the overall soundstage ... i.e. attenuating your tweeters on the sail panels to bring your soundstage up or down.

Please don't try and use words when you don't know what they mean.

 

"So "narrow the frequency response down", do you mean by using a crossover of some sort?"

Yes, I do mean for him to use a crossover of some sort - when suggesting that he adjust the frequency on his amp I was assuming that the amp powering his subs has an adjustable crossover built-in.

"What do you mean rolling noise? Do you have any idea what you're talking about?"

The term, 'rolling noise' is one that I have heard many people use in discussion of bass response. However, I will try to be more clear: when I say 'rolling noise' I am referring to the deeply resonating/rumbling noise that is heard predominantly in rap music. I don't really feel like explaining every detail of why narrowing the frequency response of the subwoofer would cause much of this rolling to go away, leaving the subwoofer to play primarily the lower bass notes and not drown out this man's under-powered component speakers during all parts of the songs (mostly, I don't feel I should really have to defend myself when all I was really doing was trying to help this guy out - which, as far as I can tell, you are not)

As for the rest of your post, Big_Ham, I am not sure what has invoked your wrath upon me, but whatever it is, I do not believe it has anything to do with this thread and I am only attempting to help a guy out. I did not pull this advice out out of my 'butt' and I don't appreciate your tone. I apologize to the audio-Gods if I have misused some terminology, but really I think you simply misunderstood me.

How about this: we let InsneDrMr try out my advice (if he feels it worthy) and he can let us know if it helped him at all. I think it might just be able to help the music to not sound horrible until he can properly power his component speakers.

 

Wow, you really think you were helping, huh? Well, let ME help YOU by telling you to stop helping people. You have no idea what you're talking about and can't even begin to readily defend your claims.

Why don't you do a google search on "rolling noise"? I think you'll find zero related results to anything car stereo. Why don't you do an org search? Wait, you never donated so let me present the results to you. When I search in Audio and Electronics for rolling noise I come up with ... oh ... Zero results.

See, help comes in the form of someone who knows facts about a topic that you don't know and helps you by teaching you those facts. The information you have given is not facts at all, so stop trying to act like you know what you are talking about.

This was not a simple misunderstanding as witnessed by your lackluster response. If you'd like to try again telling me what "rolling noise" is, with reference to it in text other than your own, and please re-explain your "helpful suggestion" with words we can all understand. Because "narrowing the frequency" does not indicate where he should be narrowing ... up top? or some type of LPF for subsonic frequency? Oh ... and by the way "subsonic" by definition means below the human hearing spectrum.

Wait ... you're a pro - I'm sure you knew that.

 

What level of fact, or truth, is greater than the empirical knowledge that I possess from my own experiences with car audio? My system sounds as good, if not better, than every other sound system that I have ever heard. I do not say this to brag, I say this to maintain the FACT that I too have experience and am able to help others with the knowledge I have gained through those experiences.

I don't really give a **** what you think about the terms that I use when I do this. Whether or not you understand them is of no consequence to me. Perhaps the term "rolling noise" is one that is not so commonly used around here, and it is for that reason that I went on to clarify what I meant by it: a "deeply resonating/rumbling noise" from the subwoofer.

Regardless, your tone and your hostility are unnecessary. Perhaps you are upset that I had the audacity to challenge your authority in the realm of car audio. However, from the way you have been acting here, I feel no qualms with saying that all that you have proven is that you lack a certain quality of mature composure that is key to any forum of discussion; I can only imagine how foolish your actions would seem in real life.

Sincerely,
Jonathan

By the way, they say that no matter who wins, arguing on the internet is retarded.

 

Wow ... you found thesaurus.com ... congratulations.

Big words do not a smart man make.

Instead of addressing my concerns, you only addressed my tone. That's weak. If you say you don't care, tell me more about your proposed help/solution for InsneDrmr. I know we're both waiting with baited breath.

... you're on ....

 

Words are our only means of communication Big_Ham, a smart man will use them wisely. And, for the record, I do not need a thesaurus to express myself intelligently, it is my education that has made that possible. And do not act as though the composure of my response was in arrogance or pig-headedness, for it was you who asked me to be more clear in wording.

As far as my proposed help for InsneDrmr, I already made that quite clear. I suggest he purchases an amp for his component speakers. And as a temporary solution I, personally, would lower the sub-amp's crossover cutoff point, as to narrow the range of frequencies that are played through the subwoofer. I do not have any experience with the Bazooka amp that he is using, but if it has any sort of bass boost functionality, I would recommend he turns this down as well.

The result of these adjustments will be a subwoofer that plays the lower frequencies of a song, adding enough bass to enjoy the music, but not so much to drown out the under-powered component speakers. This is because only certain portions of the bass of a song enter into the lower frequency levels that his sub/amp will be tuned to, so the bass response of the subwoofer will not be rumbling throughout the entirety of the song but instead it will complement the mids and highs of the component speakers, even though they are underpowered.

In a normal system, the crossover cutoff point should be tuned differently. However, in a normal system the component speakers are properly powered and a fuller-sounding bass will only complement the sounds of the component speakers. However, in InsneDrmr's case, I would suggest that a full-sounding bass is too much for his speakers which are powered only by the HeadUnit (~20 watts RMS, at best - I believe the Blaupunkt speakers perform better with ~80 Watts RMS).

I do not feel compelled to explain myself again. The only reason I post in these forums is because people around here have helped me in the past and I am willing to do my own part to help others. I do respect that you are a donating member because it means that you are part of the reason that these forums are alive. At the same time, I do not respect you.

-Jonathan

 

 

Let's settle down a little.