i knew it!! your prostituting to get all this money
loll

 

Yep, although there really wasn't much of it aside from the really cheap carpet they have glued in some spots.

Well, in retrospect I would have done things a bit differently.

TRUNK - Sludge is the way to go. Just glob it on.

CABIN - I prefer Spectrum here since you need to be pretty precise around some of the contours. Plus you can pour lthe spectrum into the footwells and slop it around quickly.

DOORS - Christ, I wish I would have had Sludge for this. The spectrum will do, but sludge + doors = t3h win!!1!

I used 100sqft of Hazmat, 200sqft. of Damplifier, 80sqft. of Sludge, and 80 sqft. of Spectrum. I have an extra can of Spectrum I will be selling. I would have liked to do a couple of extra layers on the floor, but I ran out of time working on this. No big deal, as Specturm serves as a barrier loader, and I had carpet padding to put over this. Don't forget, I am also adding carpet padding to the trunk and doors (hopefully this weekend). I also am finishing up the wheel wells, and that took up an ample amount of material as well.

However, if you are going to be doing this soon, pick up some Overkill. Ant seriously slashed the price on this to the point where it's affordable...and really pisses me off that it was like $4/sqft. when I bought everything.

If I was doing that, I'd probably have enough dinero to have someone else do all this!

 

So you went all B-stock then? I saw you said Sludge was ~$30 earlier and it definitely IS NOT for the A-stock. I'm just asking to make sure the B-stock is a good choice to go with (i'm making a few bucks on a co-op right now, but as soon as winter rolls around, there goes another $30k of the money I don't have... Why oh why am I doing this...)

 

You mean use the overkill as a replacement to the carpet padding correct? Just making sure!

I can't wait to start doing all my stuff... I'm going to be pulling it all apart just like you, but I'm also going to cut 6.5" holes in my rear deck and expand the 8" sub slot to accomodate a 10" and build a box around it... Man this could turn out bad

 

Ummm, B-Stock for the liquid stuff, A-Stock for the Mats. B-Stock is every bit as good as the A-Stock, it's just that the B-Stock is older. Only real difference is that you will need to stir the liquid a bit more at first.

Why are you doing this? Because it's a terrible, evil, unescapable addiction that has no escape.

 

Yeah, I'm already feeling it... I've gotten away from all of my other addictions, though, so I feel I owe it to myself... Man A-stock mats = big $$

 

Why are you doing this? Because it's a terrible, evil, unescapable addiction that has no escape. [/QUOTE]

I already attempted some of this you started but I will do my doors all over again from scratch with the products you used. I will do the floors when I do my leather seat install. I thank you for this addiction I have.

 

take pictures!!

 

You would use the overkill in place of the carpet padding correct? How much would be neededf or one layer throughout the floor, trunk, panels, and roof? (Will it even fit in all thse places with the damplifier, sludge/spectrum in there?

Thx

 

Very impressive Metal Max! Can't wait to see the finished product......everything back in one piece. You have to let us know just how quiet the max is once you finish!

 

Yes, 120sqft, yes.

 

It took me until right about NOW to notice your avatar and realize where it's from... Nice

 

damn...im looking at my doors and used like 20 total to do the door speakers. a half a sheet of plexiglass to seal it up good, and some egg crating material, and thought I was doing something. This is ummm...sick, and you should be checked lol.

I plan to do more on mine but I must tip my hat cause I know it will never get to that degree. I cheated in my last car and used 44 cans of foam (Yes i know the downside but it was for spl) and had a friend linex the hell out of the whole inside. Worked well, but your setup makes me wonder if the work is worth the price diff...

 

hey metal, if you've answered this already, im sorry, but how much total did this cost you (if you dont mind me asking)??

 

he sold one of his *********

 

yeah, you'd think thats what he would have to do

 

Around $700 total. I purchased all of my materials on 2 different dates and had discount codes for both purchases. $700 is really not all that much when you consider what other people put into exhuast systems, wheels, body kits, etc...

...the only difference is that this is a project where I will be the main one to enjoy it, not everyone else.

 

Damn straight...

 

Alright, I then added 3 layers of Spectrum to the doors...



...then I added a layer of 19lb. carpet padding and a pacth of acoustic foam behind the speaker hole...



...then I acced a bead of caulk behind the MDF ring...



...then finally mounted the speakers in the rear with a bead of caulk! Deadening's



ALMOST done - I have to carpet the front doors and carpet the trunk...and we're done!

 

Looking good! How big an area behind the speakers did you cover in acoustic foam?

 

So you used caulk instead of non-hardening clay? Is there any reason for that?

 

i hope the stuff on your roof dont' melt like how mine did.. i used rammat

 

Ummm, I think like a 6" by 6" area...nothing huge.

Yeah, I could get into the little cracks alot better using the caulk.

Well, it still stood strong after some +90F days, so we'll see!

 

whats the ups and downs of using caulk or non-hardening clay?

 

Well, it still stood strong after some +90F days, so we'll see! [/QUOTE]

I was kinda curious about the heat as well. The sludge and spectrum has no heat rating i could find. I'm located in texas, with a jet black car so needless to say the car get pretty hot. On the doors i saw that you used damplifier, the spectrum then carpet padding. Could you get away with using overkill instead of carpet padding cause i think i may have some left over from when i finish or would that be overkill ( no pun intended) with damplifier and sludge?

 

Second Skin test all of their products on site at their manufacturing facility...IN ARIZONA. Rest assured, this stuff will NOT fail you.


Well, you can go as crazy as you want! Believe me, I would have MUCH rather used Overkill, but when I was buying all of my materials, it was like $60 for 20sqft. Now that they have bottomed out their prices, it's much more affordable and I had to use the "pooman's Overkill" . Would that be overkill using what you listed above? Absolutley not. With deadener, the more the better!!!

 

PROS
Easier to apply
Permanent
Garunteed Air tight
Cheap

CONS
Permanent

 

Not 3M strip caulk

 

dam bro good job

 

*mental note*

I should have the trunk done this week, I know you've been looking forward to that one.

 

Does anyone know if Over Kill has an adhesive backing?

 

yeah Dan, you got me in suspense. Need more pics.

 

looking good as usual metal

dont want to hyjack your awesomethred but check out my recent project

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2119519

let me know what you think

ANT

 

Hey Ant...it's Don. I have a few more thing to place on that order, just didnt wanna call ya on a Saturday/Sunday. Ill give ya a call tomorrow to confirm everything.

 

Don, you got the money I sent?

 

nice work ANT

 

Nah

Yea I got it. I wanted to pass out for a week after you left....eventually (6am) I did ..

 

my question is with all the layers how do you get the damn door panels to stay on? my other car was completely diff, and this kind of pisses me off with this one, the stupid thing keeps popping off with three layers, i cant see how yall have done 5-6 and get the covers to stay.

 

I think I am infinently jealous of the resources that you have. Amazing job, I would have taken it just as far in mine were money not an issue.

Well, when I started adding all of the deadening, you will see that the outer perimieter of the layers end just before the pop-tab mounting holes. As long as you layer the doors such that the deadener will not prohibit the mounting tabs, hell, you could add 20 layers to the doors!

 

Is it best to run all the wiring before or after doing all the sound deadening?

I'm trying to determine how exactly I should aproach my install. I am doing the Big 3, all wiring (new speakers - front d661s, back d661i, and sub D610D2- with 2 amps D7104 and D3600.1), and sound deadening.