matching RMS between speakers and amp?
#1
matching RMS between speakers and amp?
I was at best buy the other looking for speakers for my brothers car and the salesman said that the RMS of the amp should be as close as possible to that of the Speakers. Is that true?
if that's true then I guess I need to find a couple of amps one running 100 rms and 1 running 60 rms
great, just what I wanted more weight in my car
if that's true then I guess I need to find a couple of amps one running 100 rms and 1 running 60 rms
great, just what I wanted more weight in my car
#5
Just looked it up, the ZX700.4. It would be way overkill for the 1X60, assuming that is for the stock sub. Have you ever thought about adding a nice pair of 10"s to the trunk? If you plan on upgrading, that would be the way I would go.
#6
the 6x9s are rated 100 watts RMS (1 amp)
and the 6.5s are rated 60 watts RMS (2nd amp)
I have no plans on adding anything more than that to my car. I prefer to take away weight rather than add it
Actually if I can run 1 4 channel amp I'd be even happier (less weight )
and the 6.5s are rated 60 watts RMS (2nd amp)
I have no plans on adding anything more than that to my car. I prefer to take away weight rather than add it
Actually if I can run 1 4 channel amp I'd be even happier (less weight )
#7
Originally Posted by internetautomar
the 6x9s are rated 100 watts RMS (1 amp)
and the 6.5s are rated 60 watts RMS (2nd amp)
I have no plans on adding anything more than that to my car. I prefer to take away weight rather than add it
Actually if I can run 1 4 channel amp I'd be even happier (less weight )
and the 6.5s are rated 60 watts RMS (2nd amp)
I have no plans on adding anything more than that to my car. I prefer to take away weight rather than add it
Actually if I can run 1 4 channel amp I'd be even happier (less weight )
#8
Originally Posted by internetautomar
I was at best buy the other looking for speakers for my brothers car and the salesman said that the RMS of the amp should be as close as possible to that of the Speakers. Is that true?
if that's true then I guess I need to find a couple of amps one running 100 rms and 1 running 60 rms
great, just what I wanted more weight in my car
if that's true then I guess I need to find a couple of amps one running 100 rms and 1 running 60 rms
great, just what I wanted more weight in my car
They get paid for commision I believe so he's saying what's best for his pockets too.
#9
Originally Posted by Scope
They get paid for commision I believe so he's saying what's best for his pockets too.
#12
Better to have more power then less. Power can always be tuned with the gains. Your best bet is to find a solid amp thats in the 75 x 4 to 100 x 4 rms range. This way in the future if you ever upgrade there's no limitation to what you get until you get into the super high end equipment. Best buy guys DO NOT wok on commision so they are just there to voice there own personal opinions in most cases.
#14
Originally Posted by Penguin215
So if an amp isn't powerful enough to the speakers RMS, it'll all still be fine...say 78W to a 100 RMS speaker?
because right now that's how I'm running, POS JVC KD-G210 running the references.
#15
Originally Posted by internetautomar
so even severly underpowering it won't be a bad thing (think basic HU ouput 18w rmsx4)
because right now that's how I'm running, POS JVC KD-G210 running the references.
because right now that's how I'm running, POS JVC KD-G210 running the references.
#17
Originally Posted by internetautomar
so even severly underpowering it won't be a bad thing (think basic HU ouput 18w rmsx4)
because right now that's how I'm running, POS JVC KD-G210 running the references.
because right now that's how I'm running, POS JVC KD-G210 running the references.
#18
Originally Posted by nismos14
Severely low power can damage them worse then over powering.
if that were the case you better not turn your stereo down or all your speakers will blow!!!!!
do some reasearch and learn how speakers work
#19
Originally Posted by Batxel
if that were the case you better not turn your stereo down or all your speakers will blow!!!!!
do some reasearch and learn how speakers work
Power and volume are different. Looks like you're the one that needs to do some research.
This needs to be cleared up a bit. People with amps that are severely underpowering their speakers tend to have to turn the volume way up in order to produce loud volume, but in doing so they end up bringing alot of distortion to the speakers, thats what causes the damage.
#20
Originally Posted by nismos14
Power and volume are different. Looks like you're the one that needs to do some research.
This needs to be cleared up a bit. People with amps that are severely underpowering their speakers tend to have to turn the volume way up in order to produce loud volume, but in doing so they end up bringing alot of distortion to the speakers, thats what causes the damage.
This needs to be cleared up a bit. People with amps that are severely underpowering their speakers tend to have to turn the volume way up in order to produce loud volume, but in doing so they end up bringing alot of distortion to the speakers, thats what causes the damage.
distortion doesn't blow speakers. Speakers don't have brains they don't sit there and say hey this signal is ugly so I will kill myself. I think you are very confused on how speakers and amplifiers work. A clipped signal is normally a square wave and may possibly put out twice the power of the normal signal. So an even higher powered amplifier will just do even more damage and result in a much more powerful 'square' wave.Distortion doesn't cause speaker damage!!!! You can send 20 w rms signal to a 300w rms speaker and not blow it all believe it or not!
You sound like a typical bb or cc employee. Do your research!
#24
Originally Posted by Batxel
again
distortion doesn't blow speakers. Speakers don't have brains they don't sit there and say hey this signal is ugly so I will kill myself. I think you are very confused on how speakers and amplifiers work. A clipped signal is normally a square wave and may possibly put out twice the power of the normal signal. So an even higher powered amplifier will just do even more damage and result in a much more powerful 'square' wave.Distortion doesn't cause speaker damage!!!! You can send 20 w rms signal to a 300w rms speaker and not blow it all believe it or not!
You sound like a typical bb or cc employee. Do your research!
distortion doesn't blow speakers. Speakers don't have brains they don't sit there and say hey this signal is ugly so I will kill myself. I think you are very confused on how speakers and amplifiers work. A clipped signal is normally a square wave and may possibly put out twice the power of the normal signal. So an even higher powered amplifier will just do even more damage and result in a much more powerful 'square' wave.Distortion doesn't cause speaker damage!!!! You can send 20 w rms signal to a 300w rms speaker and not blow it all believe it or not!
You sound like a typical bb or cc employee. Do your research!
edit: distortion is a warning sign that the speakers can't handle the power they are seeing, being clipped by the amps gain not being set properly to the h/u input voltage, improper EQing,or the volume turned up too high. you can blow a 300 watt speaker with 20 watts but you'd have to be a fool to do that, unless its some overrated fake egay stuff.
#25
Originally Posted by slickrick
I'll agree to diagree. distortion kills a speaker 60% of the time...everytime.
#26
oh boy...this should get interesting...
anyhow, the gain(s) on the amp should never be turned out all the way. it's there to help match the HU's input voltage. please read this before you do any more harm to your equipment:
http://www.bcae1.com/gaincon2.htm
anyhow, the gain(s) on the amp should never be turned out all the way. it's there to help match the HU's input voltage. please read this before you do any more harm to your equipment:
http://www.bcae1.com/gaincon2.htm
#29
Originally Posted by AscendantMax
oh boy...this should get interesting...
anyhow, the gain(s) on the amp should never be turned out all the way. it's there to help match the HU's input voltage. please read this before you do any more harm to your equipment:
http://www.bcae1.com/gaincon2.htm
anyhow, the gain(s) on the amp should never be turned out all the way. it's there to help match the HU's input voltage. please read this before you do any more harm to your equipment:
http://www.bcae1.com/gaincon2.htm
So if my head unit has an pre-amp output voltage of 8V, and my amp has an input sensitivity of 250 mv to 2.5 V, I'd be damaging my amp, because the head unit puts out more voltage than the amp can take?
#30
Originally Posted by ElVito1981
So if my head unit has an pre-amp output voltage of 8V, and my amp has an input sensitivity of 250 mv to 2.5 V, I'd be damaging my amp, because the head unit puts out more voltage than the amp can take?
#32
on my pioneer radio it has a sub control from -6 to +6. +6 would theroretically=4v (the preout rating on my radio). depending on the radio, if the sub control is up all the way, you get the preout voltage that is listed for that respective radio.
#34
I thought that distortion was a sign that you were overdriving the amp, hence the square/clipped sound wave. Aren't those 2 folks talking about the same thing, more or less? I'm not an expert, just recalling things I've read at various websites quoted in the stickies here.
#35
Originally Posted by slickrick
I'll agree to diagree. distortion kills a speaker 60% of the time...everytime.
edit: distortion is a warning sign that the speakers can't handle the power they are seeing, being clipped by the amps gain not being set properly to the h/u input voltage, improper EQing,or the volume turned up too high. you can blow a 300 watt speaker with 20 watts but you'd have to be a fool to do that, unless its some overrated fake egay stuff.
edit: distortion is a warning sign that the speakers can't handle the power they are seeing, being clipped by the amps gain not being set properly to the h/u input voltage, improper EQing,or the volume turned up too high. you can blow a 300 watt speaker with 20 watts but you'd have to be a fool to do that, unless its some overrated fake egay stuff.
#36
Originally Posted by Batxel
Actually you can't blow 300w speaker with 20w no matter what you do. It's impossible unless the speakers are incorrectly rated. There's a difference between distortion going into a speaker and distortion leaving a speaker. Distortion in itself kills speakers 0% of time whether you like it or not its just fact. However the distortion produced by the speaker itself is an indicator of the speaker being sent too much power.
#37
Originally Posted by Batxel
Actually you can't blow 300w speaker with 20w no matter what you do. It's impossible unless the speakers are incorrectly rated. There's a difference between distortion going into a speaker and distortion leaving a speaker. Distortion in itself kills speakers 0% of time whether you like it or not its just fact. However the distortion produced by the speaker itself is an indicator of the speaker being sent too much power.
#39
Jeebus... Yeah I'm a CC employee, don't like it? Suck it. I agree with Nismo, from what I'm gathering, he's saying it's better to have amps that are more then capable of pushing highs, and I agree. Reasoning, people who like loud music tend to overdrive their amps causing them to clip.
WTH is clipping?
Clipping is pushing your amp beyond the unit's power supply. Sound is usually in the form of sin waves, when you get a clipped signal..well it becomes square. The loudest portions of the music don't get any louder, they hit a ceiling cause the amp can't push it any more. It sounds louder because the quieter parts of the music gets louder, this results in no dynamics! Boooo. =( When you send this sort of signal, it's grounds for disaster..voice coils start over-heating and this is when they start failing.
So, with that said. If you have a amp with more power, it's less likely send a clipped signal (very bad). Oh, and you can set gains by using test tones available around the net, somebody posted links to some awhile back. To set them just make sure the tones are normalized and turn everything down. There is a very distinct sound between a clipped/unclipped test tone, turn everything up right before it starts to clip and adjust everything accordingly from the source unit to finally the amp.
Elvito, you can have 8v pre-outs going to an amp w/ a lesser rating. Just set the amp on the lowest sensitivity... 2.5v is the lowest.. that sounds like a cheap amp imho. But anyway, it's not often you're going to be turning your deck up that much, unless you're one of those weirdos that like being in pain.
WTH is clipping?
Clipping is pushing your amp beyond the unit's power supply. Sound is usually in the form of sin waves, when you get a clipped signal..well it becomes square. The loudest portions of the music don't get any louder, they hit a ceiling cause the amp can't push it any more. It sounds louder because the quieter parts of the music gets louder, this results in no dynamics! Boooo. =( When you send this sort of signal, it's grounds for disaster..voice coils start over-heating and this is when they start failing.
So, with that said. If you have a amp with more power, it's less likely send a clipped signal (very bad). Oh, and you can set gains by using test tones available around the net, somebody posted links to some awhile back. To set them just make sure the tones are normalized and turn everything down. There is a very distinct sound between a clipped/unclipped test tone, turn everything up right before it starts to clip and adjust everything accordingly from the source unit to finally the amp.
Elvito, you can have 8v pre-outs going to an amp w/ a lesser rating. Just set the amp on the lowest sensitivity... 2.5v is the lowest.. that sounds like a cheap amp imho. But anyway, it's not often you're going to be turning your deck up that much, unless you're one of those weirdos that like being in pain.
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