Low/No RPM 791xv
Low/No RPM 791xv
hey guys. im stuck. The ignition is turning over but the starter never activated. I did a diagonstic with the valet switch and its saying low/no rpm. in the book it doesnt say much about this. can anyone help me out?
Thanks
Sean
Thanks
Sean
Originally Posted by kpr10is
Is your tach wire connected well, and learned to the brain?
Do have both starter wires of the ignition harness connected?
Do have both starter wires of the ignition harness connected?
12 volts: white/red or white/purple, (+), ignition harness
Starter: black/yellow or black/white, (+), ignition harness
Second Starter: green/black or red/blue, (+), ignition harness
Ignition: black/white or black/red, (+), ignition harness
Accessory: red/yellow or red, (+), ignition harness
Second Accessory: blue or white/blue, (+), ignition harness
Power Lock: light green/red, (-), in drivers door at switch
Power Unlock: green/yellow, (-), in drivers door at switch, requires double pulse
Lock Motor: brown/white, in drivers door at switch
Unlock Motor: brown, in drivers door at switch
Parking Lights: red/green, (+), steering column
Door Trigger: red/white, (-), low in drivers kick
Trunk Pin: purple/yellow, (-), drivers kick or BCM, BCM is located just below radio
Hood Pin: yellow/black, (-), BCM located just below radio
Trunk Release: purple/yellow, (-), low drivers kick
Factory Alarm Arm: arms with lock
Factory Alarm Disarm: arms with unlock
Tachometer: white/green, ac, at ECM. The ECM is located in the front of the center console on the transmission hump. The wiring is easily reached by removing the small black panel just to the front of the center console on the passenger side. the wire is in the middle row, 7th one in from the left.
Brake Wire: red/green, (+), at brake switch
Horn Trigger: green/white, (-)
Now on the remote its showing the hood open.. Was the yellow/black wire on the second or middle harness on the BCM?
You can leave the 791's hood pin wire disconnected to get your remote start working first and foremost. Leaving it disconnected will act the same way as if the hood was closed.
Are you using a multimeter or probe to test any of these wires you are hooking up? Because the hood pin will read a ground when the hood is open.
Are you using a multimeter or probe to test any of these wires you are hooking up? Because the hood pin will read a ground when the hood is open.
Originally Posted by Pearl96Max
did you verify you have the correct tach wire? There are more than one matching that color.
no..i didnt test the wires. Pretty much my buddy who is MECP cert, installed 99% of the alarm for me but then got in a motorcycle accident and wont be able to help out for a long while. All i had left to hook up was H3 on the relay satellite. Im off tomarrow so ill go pick up a multimeter and test the wires. So by unhooking the hood wire it thinks its grounded?My first error i got was NSS, but then i got that one figured out. then it gave me the Tach error, so i switched the module from tach to voltage. Then that error went away. The last one i got was the hood. So im guessing i probably need to get back in there and fix some stuff.. Should the module be kept on the tach reading instead of the voltage? Sorry if these are stupid questions. Ive never had any experiece with alarms and I though i could handle one harness.. i might have been wrong..
Yes, in my opinion, that other thread where the guy gave you the advice to DIY even though it was your first time, was very bad advice. I didnt feel like arguing, but alarm/remote start combos are not something to *** around with.
That being said, yes, even a $15 craftsman multimeter will do. Your tach wire will be alternating current, and go up with the rpm's. Yes, the alarm should be kept on tach instead of voltage sense if you want to extend the life of your starter.
No, unhooking hood pin will not make it think its grounded. The factory hood pin wire reads ground when the hood is open, and reads nothing when the hood is shut. So by disconnecting the wire, its as if the hood is shut and its reading no voltage.
That being said, yes, even a $15 craftsman multimeter will do. Your tach wire will be alternating current, and go up with the rpm's. Yes, the alarm should be kept on tach instead of voltage sense if you want to extend the life of your starter.
No, unhooking hood pin will not make it think its grounded. The factory hood pin wire reads ground when the hood is open, and reads nothing when the hood is shut. So by disconnecting the wire, its as if the hood is shut and its reading no voltage.
Originally Posted by kpr10is
Yes, in my opinion, that other thread where the guy gave you the advice to DIY even though it was your first time, was very bad advice. I didnt feel like arguing, but alarm/remote start combos are not something to *** around with.
That being said, yes, even a $15 craftsman multimeter will do. Your tach wire will be alternating current, and go up with the rpm's. Yes, the alarm should be kept on tach instead of voltage sense if you want to extend the life of your starter.
No, unhooking hood pin will not make it think its grounded. The factory hood pin wire reads ground when the hood is open, and reads nothing when the hood is shut. So by disconnecting the wire, its as if the hood is shut and its reading no voltage.
That being said, yes, even a $15 craftsman multimeter will do. Your tach wire will be alternating current, and go up with the rpm's. Yes, the alarm should be kept on tach instead of voltage sense if you want to extend the life of your starter.
No, unhooking hood pin will not make it think its grounded. The factory hood pin wire reads ground when the hood is open, and reads nothing when the hood is shut. So by disconnecting the wire, its as if the hood is shut and its reading no voltage.
Thanks again
Sean
Im stuck. I left the gray wire disconnected. I ran the tach wire off the same wire my MEVI is running off of. Now im getting a NSS code from the LED. My NNS wire from the harness( black/white) is ran to the toggle switch, then from the toggle to ground. The cars ingition and what sounds like the fuel pump turn on but the starter never kicks over. On my clutch safety switch i connected both wires together so now it starts without having the clutch depressed. Im confused on what else could be not letting it start. Both 30A fuses are fine. Does the black/white NSS have to be connected to something else?
NSS should be hooked up to the NSS wire in the car, NOT to ground. This is what will make it start safetly, otherwise it will start regardless of what gear it is in.
Did you connect BOTH starter wires? Do you have the starter kill wired correctly? Are All ign wires connected? Verified with a meter?
Did you connect BOTH starter wires? Do you have the starter kill wired correctly? Are All ign wires connected? Verified with a meter?
Originally Posted by Pearl96Max
NSS should be hooked up to the NSS wire in the car, NOT to ground. This is what will make it start safetly, otherwise it will start regardless of what gear it is in.
Did you connect BOTH starter wires? Do you have the starter kill wired correctly? Are All ign wires connected? Verified with a meter?
Did you connect BOTH starter wires? Do you have the starter kill wired correctly? Are All ign wires connected? Verified with a meter?
As for the starter wires the installer at my work did this. He installed everything besides H3 on the remote start. He said he could not legal install it at work because i have a MT. When I pull the codes through the alarm its showing code 7(NSS). Would this be the last code that its come across and it couldnt be throwing a code now? Now im second guessing he hooked the ign wires up right.
With the starter kill, which wires are those? The toggle?
BRAINSTORM
So with the black/wire NSS from the alarm being grounded it should start for test purposes. Which should eliminate the NSS as a problem, correct?
Which two ign. wires from the alarm should i check for signal?
So with the black/wire NSS from the alarm being grounded it should start for test purposes. Which should eliminate the NSS as a problem, correct?
Which two ign. wires from the alarm should i check for signal?
i think im getting the hang of this. The first start is working becuase the fuel pump is kicking on which is sending fuel to the injectors. The seconds starts isnt working becuase the car isnt turning over. The seconds starter wire is the Second Starter: green/black or red/blue, (+), ignition harness. Where would this connect to on the alarm harness?
UPDATE:
The pink/white from the alarm isnt connected to anything, and the green/black on the ign harness hasnt not been taped.There is the red/blue from the ign. Should the pink/white from the alarm be connected to the second starter?
UPDATE:
The pink/white from the alarm isnt connected to anything, and the green/black on the ign harness hasnt not been taped.There is the red/blue from the ign. Should the pink/white from the alarm be connected to the second starter?
Originally Posted by DcMaN
you need a relay for the second starter. Poles 85 and 87 get 12v. Pole 86 goes to PURPLE ( - ) 200mA starter output on the Viper. Pole 30 goes to the green/black starter wire. That's it!
Actually not needed at all. Primary starter FROM the key cylinder can go into Green. Then Purple gets Both wires going TO the starer itself.
The way mines setup, the pink/white from the alarm isnt connected. The purple is connected to the the black/yellow from starter side. And the green is connected to black/yellow on the keyside. Should the pink go to the relay?
Originally Posted by Pearl96Max
Actually not needed at all. Primary starter FROM the key cylinder can go into Green. Then Purple gets Both wires going TO the starer itself. 

Originally Posted by kpr10is
Is your tach wire connected well, and learned to the brain?
[b]Do have both starter wires of the ignition harness connected?]/b]
[b]Do have both starter wires of the ignition harness connected?]/b]
Just clarifying that I said this a long time ago...

Congrats on getting it working though.
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