I'm in the process of replacing the bose HU and CD changer (no nav) in my 2004 Maxima that decided to quit working. We're thinking about the Kenwood DDX419, with the Metra 70-7551, 40-ni10, and 95-7404s pieces. I'm also looking to use the Axxess ASWC to get the steering wheel controls functional, but I can't find any mention of people using the Axxess usb-cab cable to install the firmware updates. Is it worth the additional $50 or so for this, or is there a different/better way to get the f/w updates? Since the ddx419 is somewhat new, I'd like to plan for the future if any f/w updates are needed.

Any insight into this would be greatly appreciated.

thanks,
john

 

I haven't updated an Axxess unit yet. The steering wheel control commands are pretty static and I can't foresee a firmware update would give you much more functionality.

But I think your best source of information for this would be Axxess themselves. Give them a call and ask what the benefits of updating the firmware would be - but be weary of a sales pitch.

 

I can't see my steering wheel magically sprouting any new buttons any time soon, so no new functionality would become available. I was just wondering if anyone has run into any kind of issues with the f/w in their units.

I think I'll skip the usb-cab and save the money for other projects.

Thanks djfrestyl, you're truly a great source of wisdom and knowledge.

john

 

My pleasure, good luck!

 

What can you do if your HU won't fit through the dash kit hole? I got a 7" screen, but it still won't fit through.

Also, the harness that actually connects with the RCA jacks on the HU, does that harness make a big difference between the regular OEM one? (difference between the distortion, that is)

 

I am currently installing a BOSS double-din HU, I got the PAC SWI-x for the steering controls. I have gotten it hooked up, but not programed yet. It is quite difficult and a pain.

 

You're going to have to get handy with a dremel to open up the hole. Which kit are you using?

I don't understand which harness you're talking about? But if you're worried about distortion I wouldn't.

Return it and install the Axxess ASWC instead. MUCH easier to install, no programming necessary, and faster response time over the SWI-X. Just make sure it's compatible with your BOSS unit.

 

Update - everything showed up on time, so I did the install yesterday. I didn't order the USB-CAB as it's not something I would need for any future updates.

Everything went fine until it came time to connect the 2 wires on the ASWC to the car harness. I looked at all of the connectors but the correct one. I searched but couldn't find any mention anywhere about which connector I was supposed to use. I left the ASWC disconnected for the time being, and called the Axxess tech support this morning to find out which connector to use.

For anyone else doing this, it's the connector that plugs into the back of the dash panel where the factory radio buttons are (just above the climate control buttons). Duh... talk about a 'brain fart'... I should of known that, but couldn't see the forest for the trees...

I spliced the 2 wires onto the correct wires on that connector, connected the ASWC box to its plug, turned on the key and followed the steps and everything was a piece of cake from there.

So now everything's connected and working like a champ. And I saved the $200 or so the audio stores were wanting to do just the install..

Thanks to everyone that posted info and installation steps (but forgot to remind which connector to use for the ASWC...). It's not that difficult to install one of these units, and it's definitely worth it. The wife wasn't too crazy about spending that kind of money on an audio setup, but now that it's in and she has a radio and CD/DVD player, she agrees it was worth the money.

Thanks again everyone...

john

 

djfrestyl, thanks for the info. The figured the harness issue out. As for the Axxess ASWC, I will have to look into that now. I have the PAC hooked up, but as many have already said, it doesn't work very well, and I haven't gotten it to work yet. I think I will just take your advice.

The dash kit I am using is: Metra 95-7404S

My BOSS stereo is a 7 " screen, but I found that it has about an 1/8 of a inch on all sides bigger, so the hole is too small. I thought the dremel was going to be the answer. I have never used one...

Thanks again for all the help.

 

Also, I will be posting some pics of the job this weekend. I have been waiting for the antenna adapter, it came in today.

 

Hey - my pleasure, happy to help.

Alternatively you can also use a straight edge and a box cutter to trim the dash kit. Score it VERY lightly first to get a nice clean line, then make many passes increasing pressure to gradually get deeper until you're fully through. Use a fresh blade. It will probably be cleaner than a dremel, but regardless of which method you use, neither will look as good as it does right now. That must be a HUGE screen, I've never seen a DD that doesn't fit the Metra kit.

Also, You *should* have been able to locate the steering wheel control wires behind the head unit somewhere. Though it still works, you didn't have to run a wire from the steering wheel itself. The Bose deck is controlled by the steering wheel controls somehow, so there has to be a harness that plugs into the Bose deck that has those volume control signals. It's usually a small tertiary harness (not the main power one or the secondary rear speaker one). Just food for thought.

 

Okay, so i finished the project today. I did go get a Dremel and also used a utility knife mostly. I should have just created my trim kit from scratch, would have been easier I think...haha.

I am going to post pics as soon as my camera charges up. Thanks again for help...

 

Okay, here you go. Here is my BOSS HU. Everything works great. DVDs are amazing for what it is...

Thanks for all the help in installing!









.

 

Thanks a lot for putting this together and everyone who posted tips. I just finished my HU installation and this was a big help!

One more thing I ran into in case it helps anyone. I had no power to my HU and was beating my head against the wall. Finally figured out that my metra harness had the yellow (12V constant) wire in the wrong spot. It was one over from where it should be. I was able to pop out that terminal and put it in the correct place. That was real fun to figure out. So don't assume your harness is correct if you are having issues.

 

Very interesting. First time I've heard a harness being assembled incorrectly.

This could have caused major issues - if the 12v was in the ground pinout location for example!

 

I thought about that. Then I was actually thinking I was lucky it was the constant power wire. I had no power to the HU so I could guess where to start looking (plus that is the easiest one to test with a multimeter). I think if it was one of the other wires like ant/amp turn on I would have had a hard time finding this for sure.

 

Hello, I have a 2001 I30 with the Bose system. What are the ohm ratings for the amp and speakers and can I run regular aftermarket speakers in this car? Where is the crossover for the component speakers in this chain?

Thanks.

 

Seriously? Did you read this thread at all?

2ohm/yes but not plug and play/inline

 

Wow, thanks for the welcome. After searching for 2001 and scanning the thread I see little info on this specific year and the sticky is for other years. Earlier posts even said 1 ohm and you are saying 2. I'm just trying to understand this.

 

The information about impedance is identical for all Maximus from 95 through 08 for sure, and probably through the current model years, though I haven't confirmed. 2ohm.

What is the reason you want to change your speakers?

 

I want better sound. I'm a big home audio guy and find these lacking in midrange and high end clarity. My Sentra's factory Rockford Fosgate system is much better, for instance.

 

My recommendation to you is to replace your source unit first. It will make your Bose speakers sound better. You'll gain additional functionality like iPod or aux in as well. Plus its the most logical starting point for any car system.

 

If I get a new head unit and still use the bose amp, it can't be that different. The Bose HU is just acting as a cd player. Unless the Bose is just that terrible.

If it weren't for the impedance problem I'd try some speakers first.

 

It is that different. The weak point in the system is the poor sound quality at the source. Replace the HU and you'll notice a difference in sound (assuming its installed correctly)

 

That's interesting because normally speakers make the biggest difference and source/amp are much less. I do have an old pioneer head unit I can hook up and see how it does.

 

All components of a system make equal differences. If you're sending fantastic speakers a crappy signal, the sound will not be great. If you're sending a fantastic signal to crappy speakers, same result.

In the case of the Bose system, the speakers are capable of outputting better sound quality, if that source is provided to it - thus my recommendation persists - replace the HU, enjoy the result, and then replace the amp/speakers if the SQ is still not up to par. The amount of work needed to replace the HU is much less than what's needed to replace the speakers and rewire the car.

 

My old Pioneer only has one set of RCAs, and they are only 2.2v. Does the factory wiring use rca's so I can just try it out that way? I realize the volume will be less but it should give me an idea before I get a kit.

 

Would speakers like these work well with the Bose amp? They are listed as 2 ohms.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002C0HWFC/

 

That voltage will be a bit low, and as a result so will your sound output from the Bose. And also, the factory wiring uses RCA level signal, however in standard wire format.

If your HU had a higher voltage, I'd recommend using Metra 70-7551 which converts the RCA to standard wire, however since it doesn't, I recommend using the standard speaker level outputs on the Pioneer HU, coupled with an LOC (line output converter)

 

Interesting. I don't have first hand experience with these, but they should work. Get a set of those for the front, and a set of matching coaxials for the rear.

 

I've read through this thread and have seen a few mention that you need an LOC such as the Scosche SLC-4 for any HU with pre-amp outs less than 4V.

Well I just installed a JVC KD-HDR61 using the 7551 harness and am getting very respectable volume WITHOUT the LOC. (This install is in a 2000 Maxima GLE with the factory Bose unit). This JVC HU puts out only 2.5V at the rear RCA's. It's certainly NOT a blaster. But I can't turn the volume all the way up without it being uncomfortable. And the sound quality is excellent (no noticeable distortion even at the higher levels).

The next JVC model up is the KD-AHD65 that's essentially identical to the HDR61 except that it has a 4.8V pre-amp out. But the HDR61 worked just fine for me.

 

Glad to hear it. This is not a direct science, but a guideline. Naturally, in any case, YMMV.

 

I installed a 4th gen double DIN Bose in my 3rd gen SE. When I turn on my headlights, the display on my HU turns off or maybe it's really dim it's almost no display. If I disconnect the dimmer wire, will it damage anything?

 

So here is my issue...

My 97 Maxima has the Bose system and the HU that i'm using is the Pioneer Avic-D3. With that HU, I'm using the Scosche wiring harness I got from Crutchfield. I recently took my car to a audio shop and they rewired my radio. When they did, they took out the Scosche harness and used a regular wiring harness(as if I didnt have the Bose system).

Since then, my entire system sounds horrible. You cant turn the radio up past 15 becasue its blasting at you(use to be I could turn it up to about 25-30 and that was just right). The door and rear deck speakers play louder than my tweeters and subwoofers which are Kicker CVRs in a pro box. Before my system sounded perfect.

My question now is should I go back with the Scosche or switch to the Metra 70-7551. I've called around to a couple audio shops here in town and they only use the Metra, but dont carry it in stock. From reading in this thread, I see it really depends on the output of your radio. The output on mine is a 2.2v.

Please any advice would help. Just want to get my system back to normal.
Thanks!

 

No, in fact I leave the dimmer wire disconnected in every install.

The illumination however, you should connect.

Why did they rewire your radio?

2.2v is not sufficient for 70-7551. Put the Scosche back in. And find a shop that actually understands how a Bose system works.

 

Well I went there because my driver door speaker wasnt playing. When I would drive down the road and hit a bump, it was start back playing again. This situation would happen over and over, so I figured maybe a wire came loose or had a short somewhere. Went there for them to check it out and they told me the way my radio was wired, that was the issue. Look at the result I got, A Shi**y Sounding System. They didnt even tell me they were taking the Scosche out.

I adjusted all my sound setting back to the way I had it cause they unhooked the battery, still sounds way off.

 

Tell them it was wired correctly and to either put it back in or get your money back for the rewiring labor.

 

i am sorry if this was discussed billion of time but i gone through the thread and i didnt get a clear answer

..
my setup

2k2 stock Bose speaker-amp-sub
new head unit ken wood dpx3080u 2.0v preamp

the problem is the sound is not loud and bass is terrible
i am using the metra 70-7551 what i been reading is it,s designed for 4vpreamp for it to work properly..

will the 70-7500 do a better job with lower voltage
anyother adapter u recommend

i am desperate

 

With 2.0v, you need a Line Output Converter, not 70-7550.

 

DO U THINK I BE BETTHER OF GETTING A HEADUNIT WITH 4V OR THE CONVERTER
PLS GIVE ME A MODEL NUMBER OR LINK .. THANK YOU