4v preouts. Use Metra 70-7551. You don't need the PAC unit. If you get a pop or whine, you didn't do something right.

 

Sweet, thanks for the reply.

I am going to order it on-line. I'm not sure if I'm allowed to name the website on here, but it offers free install kits with the purchase of the HU.

The picture of the harness looks to be the 70-7551. It also includes the dash kit and the antenna adaptor.

 

First, thanks to Subxero for starting this thread and for all his work here. Also, djfestyl-- you're a champ for so consistently answering people's questions here in the last several months.

I've got an i35 that I want to replace the HU in (and add a sub). I'll have someone who knows what they're doing install once I have the parts I need.

The only question that stands out in my mind is for everyone who's gotten this working. I'm looking at double-din video units, and just want to make absolutely certain that my volume is gonna be hosed if I don't get a unit with 4-5v preouts. So far it seems to be a few hundred $ difference to get a HU with the features I want AND powerful enough preouts-- though this is probably cheaper than buying new sets of 6.5s for + an amp to replace *all* the Bose hardware.

I know the standard answer is that I just need the 7551 harness adapter (and NOT the PAC ROEM-NIS2), the only thing that throws me off is this thread where studman said that, to get suitable volume from his HU, he sent the speaker level into the PAC kit:

Is this off? Because it stands in contrast to everything else I've read about using the speaker level (poor signal clarity, etc).

So, anyone had any luck with a 2v preout? Other 2-din HU's that people have had good experiences with? I've read every single post in this thread, which seems to be the most current and relevant to the issue at hand (I've looked through some other FAQs but they're a bit dated, at least in the earlier parts).

Thank you again to everyone who's been patient and shared their learning.

 

My primary reason for wanting to upgrade is the lack of decent iPod connectivity. And by decent I'm only referring to SQ-- I used a tape adapter the other day and it's not going to cut it (spoiled by the AUX in on the Altima I had).

Anyone ever looked into the JL Audio CleanSweep? It's supposed to correct via DSP the signal coming from a stock unit to give a flat frequency response to send to your amp (8v rms pre-outs), and it has an AUX input for something like an iPod.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...php?page_id=79

Just thought I'd throw that out there-- seems like either this or a line driver, as others have mentioned, would be a solution to really open up the range of possible HU's that can be integrated with the stock bose speaker system.

The least expensive double din touch screen unit I can find that has more than 2v pre-outs starts around $800 (Eclipse avn726e - 5v pre-outs). I like what I see if the Alpine IVA-W505, which comes in at $700 or so, but it has 2v pre-outs unless you buy their IMPRINT add-on, which will bring it up to 4v for $150 or so (which, for the money, I'd rather have a bit more than 4v at my disposal).

(I'm also interested in the Clarion VX400, which is brand new and also has a 2v pre-out, as it has everything I want for less than $400 retail-- it's just untested and I don't see anyone really talking about Clarion for SQ, it's all Alpine and Kenwood from what I can see of current gen. units.)

 

Crutchfield. They're going to try to push the PAC unit. Push back for the 70-7551. They're going to claim you NEED the PAC unit. Inform them you don't.

 

The suggestions I've been providing are a hybrid of my own first-hand experience, and that very thread from studman that you posted.

The concensus is as follows:
-A HU with 1-3v preouts, you need the PAC unit.
A HU with 4-5v preouts, you'll be fine with the 70-7551.

Crutchfield offers the PAC unit for a great discounted price - about $15-$20. If you're unable to find a HU with all the specs you want, with the higher preout, for the price that you want, then simply get the HU with the lower preouts, the features you want, and the lower price point, and just pay the $15-$20 for the PAC unit. No harm done. In the end it will be cheaper than forcing yourself into a unit that has the higher preouts.

Oh, and don't bother with the CleanSweep. Get a proper line driver if you absolutely need one. But I doubt you're getting into multi-thousand-dollar systems, so even a line driver is unnecessary.

 

Thanks for the response-- that is a pretty concise summary of recommendations.

Went over to a local car audio shop and they've all but got me talked into just ditching the Bose and doing new speakers, since that was the long term goal anyhow. We'll see what happens, just need to decide on a head unit. Thanks again, djfrestyl!

 

My pleasure, good luck.

 

I just installed a clarion nx409 dvd/nav unit in my 02 Max with bose system. It only has 2 volt outputs so I went with the PAC unit to make sure the volume level would be good. I have to say I am impressed with the sound quality and never thought the bose system could sound this good. Also got the dvd bypass,steering wheel control converter and scosche dash kit to go with it. All work well and are worth the extra $100 it cost.

 

^^ Nice!

Key takeaway: An aftermarket HU can make your Bose system sound BETTER.

Oh and Sloanie - one thing I forgot to mention. You may have issues finding a dash kit for your I35.

 

Seems like they've just barely arrived on the scene within the last few weeks:

http://forums.maxima.org/infiniti-i3...3-i30-i35.html

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu..._95-7609G.aspx

Now to decide on a head unit...

p.s. out of curiosity, what are you running these days? Not the stock Bose speakers / amps still, are you?

 

So did you run the speaker level outputs into the PAC unit, I take it? (rather than the pre-outs)?

 

Wow, excellent!

You're asking me what I'm running? The Maxima is nearly back to the stock system. The reason I converted back from the system that I LOVED was because I upgraded cars altogether.

 

Yes. Speaker level outputs were run right into the PAC unit which then plugs right into the stock bose wiring. Just changing the head unit alone was a huge upgrade to the stock stereo system. I would suggest trying this first before upgrading your whole system. You may be surprised how good the bose system can sound. I now think the bose head unit was so ****ty it killed the whole system.

 

Ah, now I see that you've been offloading your Max upgrades Wish I weren't so far away, I'd take the subs off your hands in a heartbeat.

 

Yeah maybe I'll do that. I want to add a sub either way (don't care for the one stock one). What they were trying to talk me into with the new HU was new front / rear speakers + 5 channel amp and then wait to see how it sounds before getting a sub, but I'd rather just get the new HU and a sub + dedicated amp for it, and then get a 4 channel amp + new speakers down the road. (I think the idea was that a 5 channel amp would save me money overall, but my feeling is that such an amp, priced for a budget, would limit what I could drive with it with regards to subs and I'd end up eventually wanting an amp just for the sub(s) anyways.)

 

PM me your address. Shipping might not be all that bad.

 

Eh, beg to differ. Get a quality 5 or 6 channel amp and you'll have PLENTY of headroom for whatever you upgrade to in the future. That's what I did, and was more than satisfied - never even felt a need for an upgrade.

 

^ agreed, don't need a sub amp necessarily. I've got plenty of bass with my 10's IB and I'm only running a 6 channel on the back doors and rear deck and a 4 channel on the fronts.

 

Any suggestions on what to look for in such an amp, then? Perhaps power-wise and otherwise, to be able to drive a couple of decent 10's in the trunk?

 

Zed leviathan... 6 channel amp does 150x4 rms or 600x3 rms or 150x4 and 600x1 or 150x2 and 600x2 all rms ratings.....

 

I had the Audison LrX 6.9, loved that amp.

 

Looks like it might fit in the budget. The one question I have is, when you have 2 10's in a box, is each treated as it's own channel? or are they bridged somehow? (thinking 150x4 + 600x1 would be perfect if that were the case, I'm just obviously very knew to the technical aspect of this.)

 

Either or. Depends how you wire it, which depends on the wattage you want at the impedance you want.

Here's some reading for ya:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-pEt2Rmk...rs_wiring.html

 

Awesome, I'll spend some time reading there. PM sent, btw.

 

Great thread

 

One last question-- Crutchfield says to make sure the speakers can handle the power output of the amp they're hooked up to. I'm looking at the Dynaudio system 242, which is rated at 100w RMS @ 4 ohms. This Zed Leviathan would be delivering 150w RMS @ 4 ohms. Is there a way around that (via impedance maybe? Or do I just need a diff. amp?)

 

Lets put it this way I have a Dynaudio system 360 which I'm pushing 500 rms into... it's rated at 100 rms...

 

And for your impedance question, your amp should always be wired to produce the right resistance (another name for impedance, measured in ohms) that your speakers can handle.

 

Looks like you're sourcing a Zed Leviathan as well, eh? Did you e-mail Steve? Looks like build time is about 2 days direct from Zed.

And thanks for the info-- sounds like the Leviathan should do fine with the Dyns.

 

I'm considering it, right now I don't need it so.. we'll see.

No problem!

 

I have a issue.

I have a 02 Maxima SE and the stock Bose radio sounds better than the Kenwood KDC x990. However, the stock radio is unable to play MP3 files while the Kenwood can. I never changed the speakers or added a amp as I'm sorta low on cash right now so I was debating selling the Kenwood and just keeping it stock. However, I'm getting offered like $60 for the Kenwood and the Ipod connector I bought for the radio so now I'm debating just saving up and getting some decent speakers, amp and so forth and just getting a full system and keeping the stock radio just as a backup.

lol

 

Sell what you have and spend on a HU with the features you want before you attack the speakers/amp. I have no idea how you managed to get your Bose to sound better than aftermarket, but if you get a better deck, it will sound better than the Bose HU.

 

I did use the Metra harness. I have the annoying pop every time I change something. I don't remember if I connected the remote turn on. Will that supply the constant amp signal that will stop the popping?

 

Posted this in another thread already, but this one seems more up to date.
I just installed my Pioneer AVIC 710 and of course have the 2.2V output problem so I also installed the PAC OEM 2. The problem i have is that it literally has not changed a thing, maybe made it a bit quieter. I have fiddled around with all the adjuster screws and all I can do is turn the volume down. Waht the hell is going on ???????

 

I guess you didn't fiddle with them correctly. Ok turn every screw in there to 1/2 way, see how it sounds then, if that doesn't sound loud enough, turn them all to 3/4's of the way to the right, that should get you plenty of volume.

 

I have turned them all the way i could from one side to the other, if i can estimate the most I can turn it is about 3/4 of a entire turn either way. I cant turn it anymore so it I believe its on max and the volume doesnt get louder than it was without the PAC, only quieter.

 

Ok turn them all to the right fully, and then test it one more gain.

 

I edited my post last night to be a little more polite. I didn't want to look like one of those people that don't know what they're talking about. But I just finished looking at the back of my HU. The remote is connected, had to be or the rest of the system would not have worked. My ground is perfectly fine. I even moved it. Still the popping. I really like this harness, and my output level is fine. But the popping. I would buy a level converter but I don't need to spend more money to correct this problem. I would put it toward new speakers for the front. Luckily the wife drives the car daily.

 

I just spent a good 3 hours trying to fiddle around with all the adjusters and have checked every connection at least 3 times. My adjuster screws only move 3/4 of a turn from Full off to Full on. So i go from literally no sound coming out of the speakers at Full off , to my normal amount coming out (same as when i didnt have the PAC OEM connected) when im Full on. Is there any other suggestions at all that I can look for ?? Or do i possibly have a defective unit?? Thankyou for all the help so far, greatly appreciated to have an expert to help out.