astrikrace

Hey guys i got my D3 in but now all my speakers pop when i turn the HU off. and i have a slight Whine when i gun it and have the volume low/off, hardly noticable. I used metra 7551, i think, the one with the RCAs. Ohh and my ground is to the Bracket that holds the HU. Is that my problem?

Evil Empire

Sounds like the symptoms of a ground loop. Sorry I couldn't help more but I'm sure someone else will chime in and explain exactly what it is and how to fix it because I'm still new to this

astrikrace

I figured that is what it is, but i grounded all my grounds to the same place. Yea Im pretty new, but been around some easier blocks before. and If i test my ground with a multimeter, should read exactly zero cuz on a 200 scale im getting like .3 ohms.

'02_EMILBUS

iTrader: (3)

A couple of questions installing a pioneer HU. Im using the metra70-7551 and PAC-SWI-PS. But which one of the two leftover pairs of RCA jacks do i plug the amp integration RCA's (purple n green i believe) into?
There is an additional harness coming out of the car that im assuming isn't used?
And do I need the antenna adapter or is that just if you plan on using am/fm?

And also.. i guess i shouldnt connect the 2 grounds from the metra kit to the ground coming from my new HU?? Rather just ground them to the mounting bracket (as astrikrace did) or screw under the ashtray?

ANy helpful info is appreciated!

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

Front and rear rca's, antenna adaptor for am/fm. You need the adaptor though, for ground. Don't use the harness ground.

'02_EMILBUS

iTrader: (3)

so ****T ain't gonna work w/o that antenna adapter??
And ground the two metra grounds and the HU ground somewhere down inside there??

SuBXeRo

AStrike - read the beginning of this thread, u have a ground loop and i have troubleshot it sooo many ways, only success i had to counter the issue u have is with ground loop isolators which i bought from parts express. They worked great. I had the same issues as you. When you gun it, you are hearing alternator whine, the isolators solve this problem. Your HU is grounded 3 ways, one by anetnna, one by the ground wire, and one by the chassis itself. I have tried to use only 1 ground method, all presented the same pop noises. Make sure to ground it all 3 ways to be safe. Hope this helps.

VQuick

iTrader: (17)

Is there a reason for not using the harness ground? It was good enough for stock but it's not good enough for an aftermarket HU?

astrikrace

Ok thanks for all the info. VQuick Im guessing the Bose HU could deal with all the different grounds. Im ganna try to take it down to one ground and if that dont work then Ill be gettin an isolater.

GoldMax99

How about trying to ground all your grounds to different places that are good ground points. My favorites are usually something on the floor panel. This might improve your chances of picking a good one with no noise.

astrikrace

I used a multimeter to try to see where grounds were/are but all i found was that on a 200 scale my amp turn on wire was reading like 75.3. is that normal? could that be why my speakers are popping?

GoldMax99

The amp turn on wire should be 12V, so use 20 as your scale and it will should read 12. As a general rule, when you don't know the voltage start on the lowest scale and work yourself up the scales, until you get a reading instead of an error.

SuBXeRo

VQuick - the ground for the bose is more or less design for the BKOSE, you want to use a direct a ground as possible with an aftermarket HU. In theorry, i suppose u could use the stick ground, but aftermarket grounds usually require a direct ground if possible. Welcome to all that is bose.

Ok with ground shiznit, grounds are usually msde through the antenna when dealing with bose. Honestly, when dealing with aftermarket hu's NEVER deal with factory grounds, make one to the chasis to be safe. Other than that u need to look at the maint manual to find the wiring schematic.


GoldMax99- Ur speakers may be poppiung due to a ground loop. This issues seems to be common in our cars when u have an aftermarket HU. The best solution is noise isolaters. This doesnt cure it, but it eliminates it from site more or less. Thus ground loop is somewhere in the car and its TBD, no one really knows the cause. If you have popping between tracks or source change, isolaters are the way to go. If its just on/off, u need a delay device which will top the sginal being sent to the HU so it doesnt reproduce the on noise the amp causes.

If any of u have issues further contact me via AIM

absinthe52

my wife just totaled my 98...just got a 02..looking for some upgrades...

absinthe52

and i need 14 more messages to ask a question

absinthe52

13

absinthe52

I dont like the 15 post rule

vball_max

iTrader: (5)

if you keep posting like this, you will probably be banned before you get to 15.........

lindquwj

All of the experts here are going to think I'm nuts with my lack of experience on this topic. I'm not a car stereo expert, I'm just a regular consumer who wants to find out if I can fix my problem without buying a new amp and subwoofer from the dealer.

Here's my situation:
Car: 2000 Infiniti i30, Bose factory system

Problem: Subwoofer stopped producing any sound after it previously had worked with no problems. I believe the amp is not adding volume to the other non-subwoofer speakers, but don't know how to be 100% sure.

Additional info: When I unplug the wires from the amp, all of the sound to all of the speakers goes silent. When I plug them back in, the sound comes back. This makes sense, because everything runs through the amp.

I don't know whether I need to replace the amp, or the subwoofer. I don't know where to start to determine the answer to this question.

I have checked all of the car fuses, and found none to be broken. If there is a separate fuse within the amp, I haven't seen that.

Proposed solution: Infiniti told me their only option is to replace the whole thing (amp + sub) for about $300 with a new package.

Here is a link that show some technical information about my system that I don't understand enough to use to fix my problem:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/157919

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

wes

SuBXeRo

ok, so correct me if i am wrong, just your subwoofer stopped working but the rest of your speakers work?

If this is the case, you could just leave the sub out and replace it with a new bose one from the dealer or you could just add a sub to your tunk, orfind another new sub to fit in the stock enclosure. If u do that make sure the volume requirement of the new sub meets the stock box dimensions and volume.

VQuick

iTrader: (17)

You could check www.car-part.com or eBay for a used Bose sub/amp from an I30 (or Maxima if they are the same).

uavscrappy

Okay so I have a Pioneer DEH-9800BT that I am going to install in my '05 Maxima. I was reading Evil's post and got scared. Then I did a side by side comparison. Evil's DEH-P7700MP HU preamp voltage is 2.2v, the 9800BT HU says 5v. Will the 2.8v difference keep me from having to buy the Amplifier Integration adaptor that Evil got? Also Crutchfield is saying that the -51 Metra Adaptor that everyone favors "Does Not Fit" between a 2005 Maxima and a Pioneer DEH-9800BT HU. It is recommending the -50. Can anyone give me some advice on this? I want to think Crutchfield is FOS and that you guys know a lot more, but at the same time I want to make sure I am doing it right. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for any help you can give and Thank you for posting such an informative and interesting thread.
Scrappy.

In addition I checked the Metra Site and the Installer.com site and none of them said anything about the -51 Harness This stinks I don't like what was said about the -50 Harness.

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

What the *** with the red??

No the 70-7551 would be the BEST choice for you.

uavscrappy

I have no idea what happened with the Red when I originally posted it was black and I couldn't see it, okay so I will go with the -51, thanks for the help.

rizzindriver89

umm, ok maybe i'm just not reading this carefully but I want to put a single din into my 95 se w/ a clarion HU and bose speakers. So I have to do the following right:

1. electrical harness
2. dash kit
3. buy speakers
4. ??

do i need to run aftermarket wires or what?

a little help would be much appreciated

SuBXeRo

u just want to change your headunit out?>

UGAd13

Trying to install Pioneer FH-P8000BT & Pioneer GEX-P10HD (HD Radio) using the Metra 70-7551. I think everything was hooked up correctly we were kind of rushing last night.

Couple of Q’s:

When I hooked everything up and installed in the car no sound came out of the speakers. It recognized the HD Radio input and played a CD, but no sound. Any ideas?

There wasn’t an illumination wire (at least we didn’t see it) so the HU didn’t dim when the headlights turned on. Any idea what to look for?

Also, after messing around with the HU trying to get sound out of the speakers, I heard a pop and power to the HU went out. Ended up blowing a fuse. My question is: the HD Tuner needs a 12V power supply, what would be the best place to tap into? My brother helped me with the install and I’m not sure what power source he tapped into, but I do know that he spliced into the HU wiring harness ground. After reading more of this thread it looks like we should ground those points into the chassis. Could that have caused the fuse to blow?

Last one… has anyone installed the PAC SWI-PS in a 5.5 gen? What a PITA… Any tips or ideas? My bro and I have basic car audio/electronics knowledge but haven’t had to install diodes, etc.

Thanks for the help.

wuzzy

iTrader: (3)

UGA, I am new in car audio and right now I am replacing my bose as we speak with a pioneer. Are you talkin about no illuminations on the metra? If you are talkin about that, the illuminations is the orange wire. If you are talking about something else, I cant help yet lol. I am also trying to figure out which wire to hook where.

UGAd13

I think I got that... just not sure if the HU has that option. I'll recheck when I take it all apart tonight.

UGAd13

Took it apart and everything is connected correctly. Maybe bad Metra kit? My bro has an extra 70-7550 harness; going to try that. Hopefully it's not the F'ing HU.

SuBXeRo

*bump to top as this is a hot helper thread*

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

Def not necessary there is TONS of bose info if one is smart enough to search. This topic is discussed almost daily.

fredb

A Question:

I purchased the 70-551 harness as I am replacing my Bose head unit. I am now trying to match up th ewiring with the harness from the unit I just purchased. I am hooking up the speakers via RCA (as recommended). However, I just want to make I am ding this right. Could you please advise.

* Red to red (functin match, no problem)
* Yellow to Yellow (Funtion match, no problem)
* Speakers (RCS Hook ups, no problem)
* Orange Dimmer (My units harness does not have a match, I figure I can leave this along, since the unit has a day/night function built in)
* Antenna/Amp blue wire from my units harness I have matched up with the Power Antenna blue wire from the 70-551 large plug + The blue/white AMP wire from the 70-551 small plug ...Correct? Please advise.
* Black ground wire from my units harness matched up with black shileld wire ground from 70-551 larg plug + the black/white shiled wire ground from the 70-551 small plug, correct? Please advise.

Thanks.

SuBXeRo

make sure u connect the illumination wire. thats a must, there should be a connection for each wire on the harness.

Also

u want to ground the shielded ground wires and the ground on the Hu to the car. theyy should be just connected together. If you want connect them together in parallel and ground the whole thing

laub

hey can anyone help me out
i have a 95 maxima with the bose system
about 3 months ago, my brother switched out the bose speakers with some aftermarket ones...well it worked fine for about 2 months
then a month ago, he said he was driving around and hit a small pothole..and all of a sudden the speakers went out... the bose headunit still works i think.
i checked the fuse labeled "bose" and it was blown so i got replacement fuses
but everytime i turn on the bose headunit, the same fuse keeps blowing.
Does anyone have an idea whats wrong? Im guessing its a short circuit?
thanks in advance for the help

fredb

SuBXeRo - "make sure u connect the illumination wire. thats a must, there should be a connection for each wire on the harness."

There is not wire on the HU harness that directly matches the illumination wire on the 70-551. Is there another alternative to connect it too (constant 12 v, etc)? Will do on the Ground wire.

VQuick

iTrader: (17)

If all you did was swap the bose speakers with aftermarket speakers, you can't do that. Bose speakers are individually amplified and have different specs than aftermarket speakers. I'm not sure there's a way to run aftermarket speakers with the Bose headunit, but you can do the opposite if you buy a special wiring adapter.

Your best bet may be to buy replacement used Bose speakers on eBay...assuming you haven't messed up your headunit.

thealliance43

iTrader: (4)

i just got the rca pre-outs and installed my avic z1... i'm having some trouble with my audio quality.... i noticed when i took apart my 6 disc changer and installed my wiring harness... two harnesses were left untouched.... what were these too??? do i need these... my sound isn't as good as it was in the stock radio... thinking my amp might not be done... but if my amps not on will i get sound? because i am... just not as loud as it should be...

SuBXeRo

Fredb - since the car has a wire for it and the metra harness doesnt, if i remember right, then dont worry about it. There is an illumination constant wire, make sure that one is connected, it should be or your HU wont light up. The dimmer one is for units that have a sep dimmer function. Dont worry about it . Just leave the wire taped off. Ultimately, the wiring harness on your HU will determine what you can connect . As said below, you dont need to connect it, but i would do it/did it for completion sake. Do you have any extra wires?

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

Illum wire doesn't need to be connected, period.