are you guys having a problem with the trunk floor board not being able to support a sub. what are you doing about it
i built a wood support for my last max but it cam out like ****

 

Bought one for myself.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=357978

 

thanks but i think i can build my own for less then that
ill do it and post some pics
my last one was hinged so the spare tire was easy to access.
but it got RUIN when i slammed the rear end into a guard rail.

 

kool. just a suggestion since you stated that your last one came out like ****

 

I think you should buy one also.

Ya know, from one un-biased orger to another.

 

yeah it did but i think i learned from that one

i like what you did
dont get me wrong
but i am not about paying for something i can make very easily

 

jokes.....

hope you liked my plug dj

 

Honestly I think for 60 bones shipped you can't go wrong, he has all the hard work done for you as far as the template...you can obviously make it cheaper, but you pay for labor for a reason...

All up to you, you can risk another 10-20 bucks to make it yourself, or you can just do it right the first time

 

Meh, i just built an entire floor

 

yeah im building a whole floor

 

I have done that Took me a couple days, it was a false floor housing 4 sealed 8s and two amps...good luck

 

24"x48" sheet of 1/2 plywood and I'm done...$7 bucks.

 

Why did you bother make a thread if its so simple to make yourself, and you wouldnt bother paying someone to do it for you?

and beyond that, you're contradicting yourself here in your first post:

 

I am enjoying this thread.

Thanks guys for the support.

And to the OP, I bid you good luck.

 

did you patent the design yet?

 

FIRST OF ALL
i was never asking for someone to build me one read my post again if you didnt catch that the first time.
What i was doing was asking a simple questions about what others have dont to correct the problem. If there might have a been a easier solution that SPENDING 50 or building a wood floor.
I was simply asking the audiophiles here what they had done to fix this. In the end i decided to make the same floor board again with minor changes to fix my problems that i was toooooo freaking lazy to fix last time.
Also I give a lot of respect to the guy who builds this for the max community, simply it is not for me. I want a whole floor board with hinges to allow access to the Spare.
So when i get around to building it i will post pics and let you see what i did if you want any new ideas on how to do it.

 

personally i just got a 3/8 inch piece of plywood and traced the existing faux floor and cut a new board out. HUGE difference it holds everything now; My sub box is also fit width wise to go between the suspension rods and has an angled back ti fit the backseats, the bix completely avoids the faux floor what so ever and i am boasting 2 type r 12's in a .89cuft chamber for each sub.

 

SuBXero has a good idea - I did that myself on a 3/4" piece of MDF. Take out the carpet, trace, cut...
I cut the two edges off and then carpeted it as one piece so that it folds up for easy removal, and its perfectly flat now.

 

i would use a lighter material than mdf, i thought of using mdf as well in the begining as a deadening material, but i figured the pros of thattype of application would be negligable. JUst use thicker plywood. Also there is no need to split the wood up the middle for easier uninstallation, if its the same size should come in and out th same, BUT it's not wrong to do this its just a matter of personal preference.

im thinking about fitting my whole trunk with new poly wood and just have it sit ontop of the metal there, should be cleaner of a looking and more sturdy maybe less vibration but thatll maybe just maybe get done in a couple of weeks

 

Just throwing this out there...

The trunk floor is not level. It's higher in the back where the opening for the seats are.

When making your 'carpet-trace' pieces, you may want to account for this.

edit:

Also, you guys are worried about adding extra weight to your cars, yet you decide to make a cutout of the entire trunk floor.

 

adding weight via mdf is a rediculous amount of weight, especially if u are using 3/4 inch. if you use like 3/8 inch plywood to do the whole trunk you arent adding that much weight. If you use the 3/4 inch mdf u are just adding a ****ton of unecessary weight.

optimally, you could go with thinner pieces of plywood for just the faux floor, i went with a larger cut because i do put heavy **** in my trunk from time to time including those times i put myself inthere to do speaker work and what not. 180 lb's on that is not fun lol.

If i did do the whole floor i would have to come up with a couple methods of doing it. Chances are i wouldn't take into account the slope and would just get plywood to cover of the slant and use shims to even out the high and low dips. the trunk is not flat anywhere and it sux, i have thought many a time how the hell to make it flat and ****, but it just doesnt lend itself well to this. Paradox systems had the 2 piece diamond plating that fit in the trunk and it completely disregraded the slope all together. Though this product is nice, its not a friendly material when it comes to audio and bass, metal reflects not abosrbs sound.

if you did do thr whole trunk, weight would be an issue and the goal is to add the least as possible with achieving a goal of your choosing. I am very maticulous and chances are i would go through several prototype models before settling on a final one. if i do get this far i will be sure to post my plans for others to copy.

 

I use 1/2" for my boards (which only cover the spare tire area). They level out the trunk completely with the exception of the valleys because the metal is pressed that way.

It's only higher in the back, which is why I used a platform/shelf to level it out. Makes a nice clean step, and leaves the front of the trunk 100% flat.

 

Maybe this will help:







Take out the stock carpet, trace it onto 5/8 MDF, Cut MDF in half (allowing you to get it IN your trunk). The wings will have support toward the front of the car, and on the sides next to the tail lights, but no support in the direct middle rear. Cut a 2x4 to match the length, and cut it in half or trim it for a better fit, screw the 2x4 down, screw the wings to it. Also, toward the front of the car are 2 bolts that stick up, you may need to cut notches for the boards to lay flat.

 

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/185151/3

check this floor out about half way down the page...i didnt know if he was on the org...

 

You screwed into the trunk?
Guess since you live in AZ, you don't really have to worry about rust issues too much.

 

wow thats actually a good idea lol, if he used stainless steal screws it shouldnt be a problem. I would just seal up around the holes with silicone just to make sure. That idea is good if u dont plan on having any bowing in the middle, even mdf will bow at that size over that much me thinks

 

Notice the gray primer in the spare tire well? Thats actually a rust repair I had to do myself. When I bought the car a few months ago I didn't check the spare tire well until a week or two after, and it was filled with water and rust...turns out the right rear tail light was leaking, not properly sealed when it was repaired from a rear end collision.

 

damn man sorry to hear that, thats a rough situation, i would be soo pissed. None the less, good job

 

Wasn't too bad after I decided I hated the all red GXE tail lights on the 5th gen, and wanted the black SE ones anyways, then just some rust repair. Always good to learn new things

 

SO THATS what this thing is called? I dont have a spare so the cardboard now sagged for good.Ill consider this deal, but then again maybe ill just gut the trunk out i never keep anything in there, cept fix a flat.