M1RAG3

I recently ordered a 3.0 farad Power Acoustik Capacitor from an online vendor....instead of sending me the correct one they send me a THIRTY (30) farad capacitor;



I just want to know if there are any downsides to running such a large capacitor? Is it safe to use this with my set-up of a 'mere' 300w rms of total power (2 150w rms monoblocks) ?

I figure that more farads = better in terms of a capacitor, is this correct?

I'm not an electronics guru so any help I can get would be much appreciated!

redls1

iTrader: (2)

Curious as to what people have to say? Ive had 2 amps bigger than that and never needed a Cap.

Deckdout2

iTrader: (151)

Please to be deleting your other thread. The consensus is to not use one at all because it doesn't provide any benefits to your system.

M1RAG3

I was not aware a capacitor had any real benefits to the SOUND other than more consistent bass levels...I though it was there mainly to protect help out the battery as a secondary storage device for power?

Pearl96Max

iTrader: (151)

Send it back, return money to your pocket and enjoy.

There is little to no need for it. Especially with the power you are using. It could potentially do more harm than good.

mendon99

iTrader: (15)

but they look cool!

Romster

iTrader: (1)

Don't you just love marketing and attraction to shiny things.

Pearl96Max

iTrader: (151)

Indeed I do. Unfortunately I have morals.

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

^ you could make a killing selling capacitance.

hybridc24k

Keep it. A cap just holds reserve charge and is not bad. 30 farad is not needed but it doesn't hurt your car in any way. Its like having 2 batteries. =) Any system should always have at least a 1 farad cap.

On a side note, I believe when my 20 farad cap is fully charged even when I disconnect my battery it can run all my equipment for at least a good 5 min +.

mendon99

iTrader: (15)

Wow, this couldn't be more wrong.

On a system like his, a cap, especially a 30 Farad cap will put more strain on his electrical system.

hybridc24k

LOL! A cap just holds reserve charge and when the bass hits it uses it. What strain would there be? The cap fills up fairly quick and takes forever to discharge. Have you even ran a cap or seen it work? We use digital volt meters and check. Have you ever ran 2 batteries or more? Do you think that also puts a strain on a electrical system. LMAO.

mendon99

iTrader: (15)

a cap is just another load that the alt has to to carry.

forever to discharge? since when is fractions of a second forever?? what world are you living in?

Why TF do you think people barely notice a difference when a cap is installed in a system and when one isn't? Anyone who purchases a cap won't ever admit that they wasted the $60-100 to get one, so they say, 'oh yea, it gets rid of all of my dimming' (after all, that's what they're designed for anyways, isn't it?)

you have much to learn. www.bcae1.com : go read.

Mattlikespeoples

so on my planned install of a 1000w amp for my subs and a possible 200-400w 4 channel for my speakers a capacitors only advantage is to not have the lights dim on large bass hits? Wouldn't the capacitors stored energy help to lessen the sudden 'jolt' on my battery/alternator from trying to bump out the low notes?

I read that site and the info on capacitors and as far as i can tell thats basically what they were saying. A capacitor only levels out the amps going to the amplifier. hmmmm

BLACKonBLACK98

iTrader: (42)

capacitors are a band aid for a chrging system that is not up to the task. money is better spent on upgrading the charging system itslef.

ICEMAN76

iTrader: (2)

+1!!!! Now this is a good answer and analogy that everyone should be able to relate to.

M1RAG3

I played with this alternative. cons; high-output alternators are achieve through packing more coils into the same, small space. The H/O alternators burn out MUCH more quickly than OEM ones from what I've heard...3 shops in Toronto all told me that they would sell me one (all of them putting out approximately 150% the amperage of the OEM one) but also told me that they would be unable to warranty the part due to the inherent problems with H/O alternators.

Instead of blowing $200 on an alternator with no warranty I spent about the same amount and got a new OEM one w/ one year warranty.

If you ask me (if) a capacitor really does what it is supposed to do then cap > charging system upgrade (at least I havent heard about caps burning out in < 3 months like some H/O alternators)

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

The problem is CAPS DON'T do what they are advertised to do. They strain yoru electrical for more juice because they quickly re-energize causing more drain on yoru alternator to get refilled.

M1RAG3

I am wondering if this in actually true...

If I think about it the cap will always be trying to charge itself (drawing from the battery) as long as it is not fully charged...

If it begins fully charged and lets say the subs hit a deep note and 1 farad is discharged then it is at 30-1 = 29F....now, it cap draws current from the battery and reaches 30F again....

Isnt this the same as if you had a 2F cap and the same thing happend 2-1 = 1F then it draws current until it hits 2F again....

The NET change is the same how can a 30F cap put more strain on the electrical system this doesnt make sense?

BLACKonBLACK98

iTrader: (42)

with the amount of power you are anticipating an ho alternator probably isn't neccesary. research the "big 3 upgrade" and maybe a deep cycle battery.

Romster

iTrader: (1)

Best explanation you can get is from an electrical engineer. Everything else is just speculation. Come on people, the information is out there, spend the time and research, instead of spreading gossip.

And one more thing, we are talking about a car's electrical systems here. Good or bad, you won't hear any difference in audio with a cap, so stop saying "I think it helps". Of course you do, you just blew $200 on a marketing fad.

Like I said, go read articles from real electrical engineers, or talk to a live one like I did.

Romster

iTrader: (1)

For the lazy once - read this:

http://stason.org/TULARC/entertainme...s-it-work.html

http://stason.org/TULARC/entertainme...ned-up-lo.html

http://stason.org/TULARC/entertainme...acitor-MZ.html

Also a capacitor IS NOT like a battery - the more energy it stores, the more energy it needs to store it to overcome the magnetic fields building up inside. Imagine charging a 30 Farad cap that is made for a 30,000 Watt system. And they age a lot faster, reducing the ability to store energy. So it would be better to add a second battery instead doncha think.

M1RAG3

.

I never made any references to audio quality

$200 on an alternator read my post

Romster the articles were useful though thanks for posting them

Romster

iTrader: (1)

I was talking more in general, wasn't my intention to single you out. Glad I was of some use though :P

shorterthanrich

Either return it and spend the money on upgrading your Big 3, which is what you need to do, or just hook it up and forget it. Caps don't really help. The band aid analogy is good.

Best option: return and upgrade big 3. that's really what you SHOULD do.

KJS2023

personlay I would keep it if I was given that mistake. I used to never use caps and deal with my issues of dimming lights. After a while I invested in a yellow top batterie which I was told would stop my dimming which it did help but not stop. I am currently running 1800 watts and am about to put another 800 in plus I plan on adding a boat load of other electronics and screens. In my eyes a cap is a good thing to have I poped it in after getting my yellow top and it stopped my lights from dimming at high volulme especialy on the highway. With it combined with my yellow top it does a great job. Yes its a small job for the big price but in the end it was worth it to me. Not everyone thinks it worth it and thats why there is so much debate here. You all are right in saying its not a batterie because its not thats why the call it a capacitor just like those little cilindar things on your motherboard those are caps too. Having a big one like the one you have your hands on will most likely drain your batt more which will make your alternator work a little harder but if you get a yellow top batterie in the mix you should be just fine.

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

The cap is adding an ADDITIONAL draw on the alternator along with the additional items you are adding. A 2nd batter by the amps would be much more beneficial along with the big 3.

KJS2023

heres the catch all question though... If I take my cap out and sell it to my buddy then by a new battery for my trunk will that get rid of the dim effect like the cap I already have does?

Romster

iTrader: (1)

Stop talking about things you have zero understanding in. The "little cilindar things" on a motherboards are called an electrolytic capacitor, which acts as a filter to provide high-current low-frequency steady voltage. Completely different from you car stiffening capacitor.

AscendantMax

iTrader: (7)

i've never used, or plan on using a cap for my audio. having a good electrical system is the foundation for any system. i'm have ~1800 watts and experience no dimming what-so-ever. i have good friends who competed in IASCA with 6kw+ of power...and you won't find a cap in their gear.

to the OP, try doing the big 3 upgrade as mentioned before. it'll help out a lot.

BLACKonBLACK98

iTrader: (42)

thats a good plan, but before you do all that/in addition to doing all that DO THE BIG 3. it is step 1 in charging system upgrades.

i'll compare it to engine modification. factory exhaust is small and restrictive. before you installed a turbo you would upgrade your exhaust right? same thing with factory wiring, so before you add another battery make sure you are getting full use out of the one you have.

seeing as you are not running much power i would upgrade the battery under the hood and upgrade the wiring. a 2nd battery is overkill for you.

adampit

iTrader: (1)

edit... lol at this post :P