ßaller

iTrader: (6)

Well, I got all the first layer and some second layer of deadening installed. I used Cascade as first layer of speaker opening, and had the rest of Bquiet Ultimate in the outer skin and inner skin. There is a Cascade Deflex Pad over the Ultimate in the outer skin panel where the speaker is. As for finishing the second layer to the rest of the door, should I go over all the holes, and just cut enough slit for the wires to go through?

I had bought the Cascade Door Kit with Deflex Pads a while ago. The damn butyl tar is a pain to get off your fingers. I used alot of thet 3M Glue. I did scuff up alot of grease with sand paper, and sand paper lightly all the areas of metal that will be deadened. Topped it off with 91% Isoprpoyl alcohol, and again repeatedly as the day went. started at 2pm, and this much was done at 8:15pm, still need to finish it tomorrow morning. I may get to the driver side or may not depends when I wake up, but since rain later in day, I may just finish off the passenger side and do a sound comparison.

Here is the pic and vid link. Vid is 150mb closest to HD as I can retain without getting too large.



Here is link to 150mb video:

http://www.adrive.com/public/a8d1125...120956def.html

filtor1

iTrader: (7)

Looks good so far. The video said it would take over an hour to DL so I didn't wait to for it. Now et some deadener on those massive holes.

mendon99

iTrader: (15)

looks good thorn, thought you already had deadened doors? bout time!

Pearl96Max

iTrader: (151)

You need to cover that huge hole my friend.

meccanoble

iTrader: (22)

Hmmm, those look like some Diamond audio Hex components? memories....

ßaller

iTrader: (6)

Ohright, I will find some 1/16 plywood to fill that big hole and screw it in, then put my second layer over it and all those holes. Do I need to do a second layer for the outer skin? Yes those are Diamond Hex. I am gonna get speaker rings made. Hopefully it will be big enough to accomodate some larger drivers from Don in the future !

It's kinda hard for me to get more pics and vids cus I am doing this all myself, and don't want that sticky grease all over my cam.



- ßaller

eng92

iTrader: (3)

At a 1/16", you're talking about a veneer (single ply) which would be extremely weak across the grain. I would not recommend using wood in the doors unless you are going to protect it from moisture by sealing on both sides.

I use the aluminum sheet that you can buy in any autoparts/body store. It is thin enough that you can cut it with a decent pair of utility scissors.

Nitrile gloves. I go through a box of 100 every 3-4 weeks.

Cant_Get_Ryte

iTrader: (52)

i use plexi to cover the access holes. you can get it warm enough with a heat gun that it will semi form to the area your covering and hot glue that bad boi in. deaden away and those nitrile gloves are a MUST.otherwise your gonna have to acetone the heck outta your hands to get it off.

meccanoble

iTrader: (22)

You mentioned you installed a deflex pad in the video. You see any positive results from this or nothing to really go crazy over?

Pearl96Max

iTrader: (151)

Dunno what you guys are talking bout, I go bare skin and never have these problems you speak of.

meccanoble

iTrader: (22)

just a little coffee, and a few bad words will get Don through a basic sound deadening day

ßaller

iTrader: (6)

I got the passenger side door done today. I guess the 3m glue did not hold the deflex pad in place. I cleaned it best I can and applied super glue to it as is stated on the package that came with the cascade door kit. It's hard for me to distinguish any noticeable difference with the pad, and overall. I have some video clips of it, that I will upload later tomorrow. I will be pulling the door out this weekend again if I have time to see if the deflex pad fell down or not. The amount of sound dead I have left after I install the driver side will still be good enough to do some areas around the trunk where it rattles. I got 50 square ft. of Ultimate total. I am sure some people use that much on one door.

Did anybody put the plastic moisture barrier back up after the door was deadened?

- ßaller

Pearl96Max

iTrader: (151)

The B-quiet stuff is nice. When you want to remove (voluntarily or not) it comes right off Clean !

Pearl96Max

iTrader: (151)

'tis true.

ßaller

iTrader: (6)

Dead vs Undead...ening. Well here is a 11 minute video that I had to shrunk from HD all the way down so the file size won't be too ridiculous.

It contains various sine wave frequency for both driver/passenger side speakers, a comparison of undeaden on driver side, and deaden at passenger side. If someone can actually notice the sq better deadened please state it. I did notice during the sine wave test that there were no rattles compared to the undeaden driver side. I used the IASCA SQL CD, and then some tunes from my ipod.

I was able to get a layer in the outerskin and the deflex in, and partial 1 layer on the innerskin. Good thing I decided to pack up as it was getting dark, friggin rain started trickling, light, heavy, light, heavy, stop, light, stop, WTF!? I will finish up deadening the door on the driver side tomorrow. I will try to get it in again. FYI, the tweeters were disconnected for the components, and my rear fills were playing too.

Here is the 80mb mpeg 4 file:
http://www.adrive.com/public/89b61e4...82e6c24d0.html