Audio pro's check ""PROJECT REWIRE!"" and tell me if anything is wrong!!!
10-09-2008, 06:51 PM
#1
Audio pro's check ""PROJECT REWIRE!"" and tell me if anything is wrong!!!
Ok, basically, i have the screen in, and i have the sub wired up....bad part= i have bose...so im taking all the bose speakers/amps out, and the bose fuse....and i baught new components for the front, and 2way speakers for the rear...also got a amp for them. am i missing something? or can i start "PROJECT REWIRE" lol...thanks audio guru's....
here is my paint of what im doing....thanks again
also i know the sub amp has rem, i included sub amp bc im adding a distribution block thingy...but the sub and deck are already wired!!!!
here is my paint of what im doing....thanks again
also i know the sub amp has rem, i included sub amp bc im adding a distribution block thingy...but the sub and deck are already wired!!!!
Last edited by The Russian; 10-09-2008 at 06:54 PM.
10-09-2008, 07:32 PM
#4
10-09-2008, 10:06 PM
#8
yes!
If i did it kind of ghetto, and had it run off of one...lets say something shorted...then everything would stop working....its a just in case kind of thing...
If i did it kind of ghetto, and had it run off of one...lets say something shorted...then everything would stop working....its a just in case kind of thing...
10-09-2008, 10:33 PM
#9
I tend to get a bit irritable
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Just in case a fuse blows in the rear ..creates a spark surround by nice carpet? Not likely, but I have never been a 'fuse in the rear' guy.
Common ground = less chance of loops.
Common ground = less chance of loops.
10-09-2008, 10:48 PM
#10
welll, im gonna have the main fuse up front, and those 2 extra fuses are just safety....and im not going to have it like....BOLTED to the carpet with cotton around it and lighter fluid accidently...which still wouldnt cause anything...because the fuse blows inside of the glass...which is also held down....and also has a case over it....which would also be mounted on the rear wall for easy access....
thats one without the fuses in it..
fuse is in the glass...the glass doesn't break when a fuse goes out...
thats one without the fuses in it.. fuse is in the glass...the glass doesn't break when a fuse goes out...
10-09-2008, 11:56 PM
#14
hey bud, my bad i didnt mean to come off the way i did...i posted because i wanted to get input from more experienced people....where would u recomend me putting it?
10-10-2008, 05:42 AM
#16
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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Location: North Shore, MA
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When you talk about a common ground for the 2 amps, do you mean just to run the ground from each amp to the same point? Or is there more to it than that?
Sorry for the newbie needed clarification.....
Sorry for the newbie needed clarification.....
10-10-2008, 05:55 AM
#17
You are correct. A common ground point cuts down on the possibility of ground loops which can be the cause of unwanted noise during playback.
10-10-2008, 09:10 AM
#18
you guys are hilarious. don says don't fuse in the rear and y'all jump on the bandwagon, knowing d**n well you're running a fused distro block.
now i'm not one to doubt don, i'm sure what he says works for him, but my stance is fuse every time you drop wire gauge. i also fuse for gauge and not current draw. wire has a lower ampacity the smaller the gauge so what might not blow the up front fuse could cause an unsafe voltage drop in the rear.
it's science vs. real world experience, but that's how i have always done it, do it, and will continue to do so.
now i'm not one to doubt don, i'm sure what he says works for him, but my stance is fuse every time you drop wire gauge. i also fuse for gauge and not current draw. wire has a lower ampacity the smaller the gauge so what might not blow the up front fuse could cause an unsafe voltage drop in the rear.
it's science vs. real world experience, but that's how i have always done it, do it, and will continue to do so.
10-10-2008, 09:16 AM
#20
you guys are hilarious. don says don't fuse in the rear and y'all jump on the bandwagon, knowing d**n well you're running a fused distro block.
now i'm not one to doubt don, i'm sure what he says works for him, but my stance is fuse every time you drop wire gauge. i also fuse for gauge and not current draw. wire has a lower ampacity the smaller the gauge so what might not blow the up front fuse could cause an unsafe voltage drop in the rear.
it's science vs. real world experience, but that's how i have always done it, do it, and will continue to do so.
now i'm not one to doubt don, i'm sure what he says works for him, but my stance is fuse every time you drop wire gauge. i also fuse for gauge and not current draw. wire has a lower ampacity the smaller the gauge so what might not blow the up front fuse could cause an unsafe voltage drop in the rear.
it's science vs. real world experience, but that's how i have always done it, do it, and will continue to do so.
:-p
You don't know **** about my wiring, I don't have a fused distro, blow me.
I've got two dedicated runs, no fuses except under the hood.
10-10-2008, 10:03 AM
#21
guys guys guys i am not trying to start arguements here!!! i just wanted some honest help! the extra distribution block with fuses was for safety so i wouldnt blow an amp or speaker or anything else....and i completely agree on the grounding in the same area........the org is not for drama its to help fellow maxima guys out! So cut out the stufff lol.....and tell me where should i put the distribution block in case of "accidents"
10-10-2008, 10:25 AM
#22
I tend to get a bit irritable
iTrader: (151)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 17,671
you guys are hilarious. don says don't fuse in the rear and y'all jump on the bandwagon, knowing d**n well you're running a fused distro block.
now i'm not one to doubt don, i'm sure what he says works for him, but my stance is fuse every time you drop wire gauge. i also fuse for gauge and not current draw. wire has a lower ampacity the smaller the gauge so what might not blow the up front fuse could cause an unsafe voltage drop in the rear.
it's science vs. real world experience, but that's how i have always done it, do it, and will continue to do so.
now i'm not one to doubt don, i'm sure what he says works for him, but my stance is fuse every time you drop wire gauge. i also fuse for gauge and not current draw. wire has a lower ampacity the smaller the gauge so what might not blow the up front fuse could cause an unsafe voltage drop in the rear.
it's science vs. real world experience, but that's how i have always done it, do it, and will continue to do so.
I have never been a fan, but not trying to make a right Vs wrong debate here either. Fuse at the battery and fuse at the amp has always worked for me without the addition (minimal) resistance.
10-10-2008, 10:34 AM
#23
don't take nismos14's comments the wrong way. we're cool like that.
i agree 100% with what you are saying, it just struck me as funny that some members need little more than "don said so" to back up a statement. i guess if they have to be on a bandwagon at least they chose a good one.
I'm not arguing whether proper or not, just whether needed or not. In his case I see no benefit except for it being more costly. Hell I myself am guilty of having one, then again I was unable to find a 4 output plus pass through for both power and ground without a fuse.
I have never been a fan, but not trying to make a right Vs wrong debate here either. Fuse at the battery and fuse at the amp has always worked for me without the addition (minimal) resistance.
I have never been a fan, but not trying to make a right Vs wrong debate here either. Fuse at the battery and fuse at the amp has always worked for me without the addition (minimal) resistance.
10-11-2008, 09:18 PM
#26
its done and wired...was a pain in the neck to finish but its done.....i kinda messed something up because the left front tweeter squeels to the sound of my gas pedal lol...i think its becuase i put the rca cable with that 1 wire......bleh...gonna redo it but not now...im so tired...sounds good tho...much better than bose.
10-12-2008, 01:29 PM
#30
10-13-2008, 09:06 AM
#31
The majority of the time the whine will be caused by a ground loop and can be eliminated by simply using a common ground or choosing a new common ground point. I assumed that you had used a common ground already and thought it may be beneficial as well as a time saver to rule out some type of random interference that may be caused by the crossover location.
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