I went this weekend to RadioShack to have some tweeters installed (i don't like the stock on the doors), found out the guy that I have known forever doesn't work there anymore and there is a new guy in his place. I gave him a chance and to my surprise he has no freakin clue how to install them with bose sound system and with aftermarket system (I still have factory HU). The guy I knew installed the aftermarket system long time ago, and this guy don't even know how he did it.

So my questions are do I take the existing stock tweets out of the doors or do I just mount new ones elsewhere (pillers, dash)? Does anyone have any tips on installing the new ones?

 

Radioshack?!

What tweeters did you buy? They may not even work with your bose system.

If they are the right type then you would want to replace your bose ones with these aftermarket ones.

 

You've gotta be fvcking kidding me.

 

maxima.org ICE .. noobs ftw.

 

Oh ..... My God.

 

Ok, I'll actually try taking a stab at this.

First - RadioShack - they don't know jack **** about car audio. Poor choice there.

Second - you're going to have to tell us exactly what you have that's aftermarket, and what you have that's still OEM, so we can determine compatibility.

Third, your best bet would be to replace the tweeter/woofer combo, with a set of components. It would replace your existing drivers, keeping them in the same location, nixing the need for any additional mounting/cutting, etc.

 

Aight, I went to radioshack because the guy that I knew actually knew his s*** and has talked me into and out of buying alot of crap. I got a lot of props on his work, thats why I go to him - I will find out somewhere else to go now that he has left for the install if you guys can't help me.

First, Factory
-Headunit, tweets, door components and bose sub

Second, aftermarket
-Old a** 2-12" Sony Xplodes 1200W (red ones), 2200 watt Power Acustik amp.
I plan to upgrade the Xplodes to Audiobaun subs but I haven't decided what
wattage to go with yet.

lmk what you guys think I should do, and don't be $marta$$e$. I come to the org for info not trash talk. If there is enough info furnished I will do a how-to with pics later and give the person(s) that help props in the write-up.

Thanks

 

'Aight', if he talked you into buying Sony subs, then sorry to say, he doesn't know his s***.

You're going to have to find tweeters that run at the same impedance as your existing ones so that they're compatible with your Bose amp. This will not be easy, tweeters are not usually sold separately unless they are extremely high end.

Which is why I still advise you to get a full set of components and power them with a 2 (non-mono) or 4 channel amp. They will mesh better than replacing your tweeters while retaining your door woofers.

 

Instead of getting audiobahns to replace the sony's you may want to try some eclipse 4200's they should cost about the same but sound much better than the Audiobahns.

I agree with dj - a component set with a 2 channel amp or 4 channel amp would do wonders over jut adding/replacing tweeters.

 

Aight I will look into replacing the components and tweets. You guys got any ideas on what setup I should install.

BTW he didn't tell me to buy the xplodes I did that on my own - he told me he didn't want to install since I was dumb enough to buy them and used at that, but he did anyway.

 

Whats your budget? I have a nice set of components for cheap bnib.

 

umm.... well now that I am looking at replacing the factory components i don't know. I haven't priced anything, in fact I have never replaced any factory speakers. Lets see I am up against replacing 6 speakers, 2 tweets - thats got to be some money thrown down.

Although I have heard of some peps just replacing doors and pillers and then removing the rear deck 8" subs. What speakers do you have, and i assume they are 6.5"? How many are there 2 or 4?

 

Ok, you need to get off the notion of 'tweets'

They're a set. They always have been, always will be. 2 woofers, 2 tweeters, 2 crossovers. I'll even go so far as extend that to pricing, $200.

The rest of the speakers in your car (rear deck and rear doors) are not as important, don't worry about them.

 

^ Kudos to you for the serious replies. I busted out laughing and stopped reading at the words Radio Shack.

 

im running 2 12s one is a alpine type e an the other is a 1200watt kenwood, i got it at best buy for 50bucks new, the hit pritty good with my 1200 2 channel amp, i have an additional type e because the cone came lose but am sell that to a friend

needless to say i like my set up

 

\

 

I was refering to 6 speakers as 2 FRONT, 2 REAR, 2 DECK = 6 then 2 tweets. As I stated before I have NEVER replaced speakers so this word SET is new for me. I know them as front, rear, deck, tweeters. All I have ever wanted is some bump so I go and buy SUBS. The guy from radioshack had his s*** set-up right and won numerous competitions. He prolly knows all audio talk like ya'll, I don't and didn't care about going to competitions; I just wanted to feel bass!!! However, I might start setting my cars up RIGHT now that I am starting to get a feel of how a basic system is suppose to be.

 

All he did was correct your terminology. You say you want to do it right, the beginning is knowing what it is exactly that you need and are looking at.

 

Sorry I snapped but the phrase "Ok, you need to get off the notion of 'tweets' ", kinda started it and then stating always have been and always will be known as plus all the other comments kinda pushed me, I guess I took it the wrong way basing that post off of his previous post and what kpr10is followed up with.

Back on topic all seriousness now, aight so I need to get 1 set; what do I leave in and take out of the car, see my previous post listing what all I have set up.

 

The only thing you have to take out is the front door speakers and the tweeters. You will replace them with a component set that includes the midbass, the tweeters, and the crossovers.

 

appreciate it, and the factory bose amp is good enough for these components? I would assume so since it powers the existing, but I want to make sure.

 

nope, i would run an aftermarket amp.

as to where you can put the tweeters, you can put them in the factory sail panels as that would be your easiest route. you can also have them fiberglassed into the a-pillars. but it's quite easy to get to the stock sail panels. i might snap some pics of my door panels as i removed them to fix a stupid rattle. you will need to take the door panel off to get to the 10mm bolt holding the sails in place.

 

^ agreed.

You can't run aftermarket speakers with he bose amp, because they run at a much lower resistance.

 

Technically you can use the OEM Bose amp, just do not have high expectations of sound or output. An aftermarket amp is Very Strongly recommended.

 

So would I overload my existing amp (2200 watts) with sony xplodes (1200 watt ea.) and the set of components (not sure of what brand or specs I will look for right now)?

 

You are not seeing Anywhere near that claimed power, so no, you would be fine.

Also noting your comment above about 'upgrading to Audiobahns', that would be a parallel move if not worse considering the company went under quite some time ago - for good reason too.

 

Never owned Audiobahns but, I have heard them - seemed to be good, here is a pic of what it looked like (1800 watts)

Thats fine though I know they aren't the best but I wasn't planning on spending more than $150-$200 on new subs, the sonys are old and starting to cut out-can't even listen to a song with out my bass going out so I have just unhooked them for now.

Its time to retire them anyway I've had them for 5 years now (I've had others but people wanted them so I sold them), and they where used before me so there is no telling how old they are.

 

In the $150-200 range there are surely several other selections out there that can be had and that are of some actually quality and still in business.

You also seem to like to type the claimed wattage next to every product. This is something you should give up on honestly. None of these products are true to these numbers by a long shot.

 

We all know this, but it gives a better idea what you are dealing with (this is one thing I do know about systems). So if I know this then everyone else should already know!!! lol

Thanks for everyones input.

 

Either way, it's not necessary to mention wattage all the time. We understand you have subs and sub amps and like bass. This is not a discussion about your subwoofer setup.

Your sub amp is not set up to be able to power speakers, you need a separate stereo amp for that.

 

To the OP, yes I was being an @ss above, but with the amount ridiculous noob posts on this forum these days, I don't take many seriously. But it seems like you are trying to learn, so please carry on, no harm done. The way you worded the first 10 words of your post was a bit crazy though, and was like me (who knows little about motor work) going into the 6th gen forum and saying I went to best buy to get my intake and exhaust installed. Everyone on forums typically has a 'friend' who supposedly is a master installer, and 75% of them come back asking us how to fix whats wrong, so my comment came from that as well.

That being said, hopefully you will turn over to the dark side of higher-end car audio. This forum is an easy place to do so, and its addicting.

 

Gottcha, I appreciate this comment. I try to do 100% of a good job if I attempt it even if I don't know anything about it, thats why I ask if I don't know, so I don't screw up my ride then asking bigger questions on the fix.

djfrestyl - Thats why I asked about the amp that powers my subs I didn't know if I needed to buy a seperate amp to power the component set or if I could run it off my existing aftermarket amp for the subs. I was curious when I was told that I could and it wouldn't overload my amp - which I guess it won't but at the same time the big amp wouldn't supply the components right. I believe I am on the same page with you, but I prolly just confused everyone that is reading. I will look into buying a component set and prolly 2 or 4 channel amp like mentioned above. Thanks again guys.

 

My suggestion:

Get a BIG 5 or 6 channel amp, sell your other sub amps. Consolidation makes for an easier install, less troubleshooting, and more room since you'll have less equipment.